Chartres has been a day trip destination from Paris ever since the train line was laid in the 19th century. As driving tours developed, it joined the travel itinerary as a stop of several hours to visit its Notre-Dame Cathedral on the way to or from the Loire Valley or Brittany or Mont Saint Michel.
Recently, Chartres has also become an overnight destination thanks to the vibrant and animated illuminations of the cathedral and twenty other historic sights and monuments that make for an enchanting evening walk-about. And the allure of Chartres by night has given a boost to expanding and upgrading the town’s lodging and dining offerings.
So we packed our toothbrushes and took the train, an hour’s ride southwest from Paris’s Montparnasse Station, to visit Chartres by day and by night, as you’ll see in this France Revisited video.
Restaurants and Lodging
The best of the lot is the Grand Monarque Hotel & Spa, a handsome 4-star establishment that’s less than a 10-minute walk from the train station in one direction or from the cathedral in another. It houses Le Georges, a 1-star Michelin restaurant, and La Cour, a fine brasserie, as well as a bar, a fitness space and a wellness center.
Jehan de Beauce is a stylish, 35-room 4-star hotel located across the street from the train station and a 10-minute walk from the cathedral. The owners also operate the pleasant restaurant Le Molière, a 5-minute walk from the hotel.
A few steps behind the cathedral, the Hôtellerie Saint Yves has the particularity of belonging to the diocese, but you needn’t be on a pilgrimage to Chartres, or even Catholic, to appreciate the location, the comfort and budget pricing of its modest rooms, and the atmosphere of this 17th-century building, a former monastery.
There are also several of worthy B&Bs near the center of town.
Le Moulin de Ponceau is a charming and appetizing address for a meal by the Eure River. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
Then there are those irresistible seats in the cafés and restaurants beside the cathedral.
Saturday morning, until 1PM, is food market time at Place Billard, the covered market in the historic center, close to the cathedral and the tourist office.
The Chartres Tourist Office is located in a 16th-century half-timbered building at 8 rue de la Poissonnerie, a 2-minute walk from the cathedral. See here for the dates of festivals and other events in Chartres. Also see this article about the five fabulous Notre-Dame Cathedrals within 100 miles of Paris (Paris, Chartres, Laon, Amiens, Reims).
Cycling on the Veloscenic Route
Chartres is also now a biking destination or stopover due to the development of the 280-mile (450-km) Veloscenic cycling route from Paris to Mont Saint Michel. Chartres on its own can serve as base for a day or two of cycling. Electric or “muscular” bikes can be rented next to the Chartres train station for any length of time, and electric bikes are available at the Chartres Tourist Office for one or two days. In either case, be sure to reserve in advance—well in advance for weekends and summer.
Among several options of circuits around Chartres, there’s a sporty 35-miles (53-km) ride to the Château de Rambouillet with a midway pause to visit the Château de Maintenon. From Rambouillet you’d then return with the bike to Chartres by train. Trains run frequently between the two towns and take 30-40 minutes. Or limit your day to the Chartres-Maintenon cycling route, then back by train or bike. Either way, you then rest and dine before enjoying the stroll through illuminated Chartres, before heading elsewhere by bike, car or train the following day.
© 2022, Gary Lee Kraut