That photo was taken long after Hugo lived here. He was just 30 years old when he moved to the vast apartment upstairs, a workaholic with a wife and four small children, already a literary luminary of the Romantic age, an established poet, playwright, essayist and novelist.

What could be more exemplary of that Romantic era in France and of Hugo’s brilliance as a storyteller than the bestselling novel that he published a year before the move: Notre-Dame de Paris. The French title immediately signaled that the main character in this page-turner would be the battered cathedral in the historic heart of the capital. But the English publisher didn’t think that Gothic enough for a foreign audience, so it made poor, maligned Quasimodo the titular protagonist: The Hunchback of Notre-Dame.

Who can forget that high-drama scene-for-the-ages in which the beautiful, seductive Esmeralda finds the heart and the courage to give the thirsty, pilloried hunchbacked bellringer a drink of water, as Notre-Dame Cathedral looms in the background!

Certainly not I as I sit by the fountain in the courtyard café sipping a flat white. Yes, they’ve got flat white on the menu. Café au lait be damned! Flat white—now there’s a bestselling term in the literature of new cafés in Paris. Still, Paris it is. A lovely courtyard in the Marais. Dress the lovely parisiennes at the next table in bangles, scarve and flowing diaphanous skirts and any of them could play Esmeralda. Cue the goat.

Such a beautiful morning to experience Papapa. Seriously. Not the best place to contemplate medieval misery today, but maybe I’ll go upstairs to visit the Hugo’s apartment once I’ve finished my flat white, to imagine him looking down into the courtyard. Maybe to watch a mistress walk by. Or maybe, just maybe, in literary mode, to look down to this very fountain as he undertook a new project: exploring the more contemporary misery and revolt to which he was personally witness. That was toward the end of his stay, though the 5-volume work wouldn’t reach shelves until 1862: Les Misérables, a title that immediately draws attention to the miserable and the wretched of the world. Might as well just call it that in English.

Hugo explored numerous subjects in his work, often with great emotion, drama and sentimentality, yet his reputation soared as a republican activist, sympathetic to the downtrodden, un écrivain engagé, as we say in French, a socially committed writer. Unlike the present one. For how can I—how can anyone—do anything but ♥ Paris in this lovely courtyard café. Papapa is a much mellower name for a café serving a flat white in the Marais than Les Misérables, don’t you think? (There’s already café named Le Quasimodo Notre-Dame by the cathedral.)

Here, on this beautiful September morning, all seems right in the world. Every glance, every exchange, every sip, every bite (it’s the press opening and I’m trying everything on the menu) reminds me that I ♥ Paris, where City Hall’s fights for social justice by promoting the freedom for cyclists and scootists (pedestrians be damned!) and takes seriously its management of heritage sites by thoughtfully doling out concessions for cafés in the courtyards of city-operated museums. Call it a flat white social conscience.

Hence the 6-year concession for this café to Les Editions Délicieuses, a company operated by Damien and Caroline Nobile. Lovely people with good business acumen. I chatted with Damien. He used to work in finance, Caroline in fashion, in New York, before returning to Paris twenty years ago and transitioning into the event-catering and, more recently, courtyard café business.

Damien and Caroline aren’t only good at operating cafés serving pleasing fare and flat whites, they’re also good at naming their establishments. They started out with Fika, the sweet little café at the Swedish Institute in another Marais courtyard. Fika is a Swedish term for a coffee break. Now there’s Papapa. This fall they’ll take over the greenhouse café and tea room at the Musée de la Vie Romantique in the 9th arrondissement, the house-museum that speaks of music, life and literature during the Romantic area. It will be called Cornelia, the name of both the mother and daughter of the house’s first occupant. Then next spring they’ll take over the café concession at Balzac’s House in the 16th arrondissement, rebranding it Honoré. That was Balzac’s first name. Endearing names for endearing places. Altogether, they offer literary travelers pleasing fikas. Or think of it as a wonderful opportunity to learn about 19th-century literature, music and art during your flat white tour of Paris. Café au lait be damned!

Place des Vosges / Place Royale

Sorry, I got distracted by my conversation with Damien. Where was I? Oh yes, the Place des Vosges. Can you think of an adjective to describe it?

Technically, Hugo didn’t live on the Place des Vosges. He lived on the Place Royale. That was the square’s name before the Revolution of 1789. In 1800, after the blood had dried and Napoleon became top dog, it was renamed the Place des Vosges to honor the department or subregion in eastern France for being an early adopter of the Revolution. But once a king returned to the throne after the fall of Emperor Napoleon, the square again became the Place Royale (Hugo lived here in the time of King Louis-Philippe), then eventually Place des Vosges again with the affirmation of France’s Third Republic.

Though royal during Hugo’s residence, the neighborhood’s aristocratic glory days were long gone by the time he arrived. By then, the former noble mansion of the early 17th century where he lived, one of 36 such mansions on the square, had been divided into fourteen rental apartments. The Marais was no longer so fashionable, and its decline would continue for another 130 years. Nevertheless, the square remained a rather decent place to live in the 1830s and 1840s, when Hugo’s celebrity and engagement were on the rise. And always that (add your adjective) view.

Whether Victor Hugo thought of this as the Place Royale or followed his republican conscience in thinking of it as the Place des Vosges, I don’t know. Honestly, I don’t know that much about the man. But from what I’ve read—Wikipedia, Notre-Dame de Paris, Les Misérables, and his poem Demain, dès l’aube (Tomorrow, at dawn) about living with the grief of the death by drowning of his 19-year-old daughter Léopoldine—from what I’ve read, he had an extraordinary life, imagination and strength of character, to which you can add love life if you’d care to look further into that.

Maison Victor Hugo, the Museum

His large apartment on the third floor (2e étage) of what become a city-owned building opened as a museum dedicated to him in 1903. I haven’t been there in a while so I might just take a peek after I’ve finished the flat white and this article. As I recall, the apartment is not as he lived in it for 16 years. Instead, the Maison Victor Hugo, as it’s called, presents a mix of artwork by and about the writer and his works, along with wallpaper, curtains and furnishings that evoke or come from other places and other periods in his long life.

One of those places was the Anglo-Norman or Channel Island of Guernsey, where he, a literary warrior for democracy and social justice, lived in exile from France’s Second Empire from 1855 to 1870. Doesn’t quite have the same ring as becoming a Florida resident to escape taxes in New York and New Jersey, but to each his Guernsey. That era is represented here by the drawing room of Chinese inspiration and the dining room of medieval inspiration, both of which he created for his mistress’s house at Guernsey. Naturally, she joined him in exile. Apparently, one can have a social conscience, enjoy one’s comforts and be a talented decorator. Maybe even play pickleball for all I now.

The museum’s final room presents a reconstitution, more or less, of his bedroom in the 16th arrondissement where he died at the age of 83 in 1885. Remember that scene from Les Misérables when Cosette reaches Jean Valjean at his deathbed and he manages to breath “Dying is nothing; it’s terrible not to live,” proof that social and political engagement requires a heavy dose of melodrama? Among Hugo’s own last words were these, written three days before he took his last breath: Aimer, c’est agir, To love is to act. When I try to contemplate what that might mean while sitting alone with a flat white in this lovely setting of the café courtyard, all that comes to mind is that it sounds like the name of a cocktail, to be listed alongside Sex on the Beach, Salty Dog and Penicillin. Perhaps I’m being cynical because I now recall learning somehow that one week after Hugo’s death, a tremendous funeral procession attended by perhaps two million people led his remains to the Pantheon. They weren’t just there to mourn a writer but a man who had become an activist for social justice and the values of a secular republic. That is what we should all contemplate at Papapa.

Just kidding! How can anyone think of social justice while ♥ing Paris with a flat white? Honestly, has anyone ever sat down with a flat white in Paris with a social conscience that goes beyond “I deserve this” or “Wait, let me take a picture first”? Come to think of it, flat white may itself be a form of international social conscience, especially when everyone, irrespective of race, color, creed or other variances, gets a ♥ or a🌿on top. Café au lait be damned!

In addition to his 15 years of exile on the Anglo-Norman island of Guernsey, off the coast of Normandy, Hugo had other visits and residences in the region, not to mention that Léopoldine drowned in the Seine in Normandy. Hugo’s Normandy connections drew Damien and Caroline Nobiles to honor that region in creating their menu for a light lunch, a savory snack and pleasing pastries, cookies and biscuits. On the savory side, baked camembert, a Guernsey bean jar, crab-and-apple on buttered brioche and, on weekends, oysters from the Chausey Islands. On the sweet side, pear douillon, mirliton, a caramel-topped cookie and a seasonal fig tart. Butter is branded Isigny Sainte-Mère. Then there’s the wink-wink of the flat white on the coffee menu, reminding us that none of this actually has anything to do with Victor Hugo. All to be enjoyed within gurgling distance of the charming little fountain or inside by the looming photo of Papapa himself.

You can enjoy the lovely flat whiteness of the café without entering the museum. Just say “Bonjour” to the guard as you pass under the arcade into the courtyard. But maybe your conscience will bother you if you’ve come this far without at least going up for the view. As encouragement, entrance to the Victor Hugo House is normally free. As discouragement, there’s currently an admission fee of 11€ (9€ for students 18-26, free for under 18) until Nov. 22, though that gives access to both the permanent collection on the third floor and the temporary exhibition “Hugo and Architecture” on the second—yes, another interest of the great man.

On its own, a Guernsey bean jar doesn’t help me understand what made Hugo a fabulous storyteller, a multi-talented creator, a social committed writer and a hero in the fight for freedom and democracy. So I’ve decided that the time has now come to leave this loveliest of lovely courtyards to go upstairs to contemplate the fellow and ponder what it means to have a social conscience, even if only out of flat white guilt.

© 2026, Gary Lee Kraut

The post Paris Café Culture: Victor Hugo and My Flat White Social Conscience appeared first on France Revisited - Life in Paris, Travel in France.

Here, I take in the tremendous view over the Seine Valley, at the border between the Paris region and Normandy, border of France its, from above a castle that embodies major events in French, even European, history over the past 1000 years. Since not all who enter the castle are willing to make the climb, the few visitors entering down below are fewer still to share this view.

Each time I’ve made the climb I’ve thought, “That was certainly worth the detour and the effort. Too bad the castle down below is so empty. And too bad no one bothers to inform visitors about the history of this carcass.”

But that isn’t what I thought when I reached the top this summer.

The rewarding view earned after an athletic climb is the same, but La Roche-Guyon, just six miles from Giverny, has now upped its game. An artistic and cultural project that came into fruition this summer marks a turning point for the chateau as several rooms have been graced with historic furnishings and complemented by new works by artists-in-residence. La Roche-Guyon feels less the carcass passageway to the summit and more a place to linger. A site that I used to think as a detour is now en route to becoming a destination.

With 90,000 visitors last year, the Château de La Roche-Guyon is the most visited heritage site in the department (or subregion) Val d’Oise of the Greater Paris region, yet it’s generally off the radar for international travelers. That’s undoubtedly due to the difficulty of access without a car and the absence of organized tours from Paris.

Compare that with the international reputation of Monet’s House and Gardens at Giverny, a wide bend in the river downstream along the Seine and just six miles away by road. Giverny (pronounced shjee-ver-nee) draws over 750,000 visitors per year. Already, in 2014, I suggested to readers planning a visit to Giverny to consider combining it with a stop at La Roche-Guyon. (See that article.) La Roche-Guyon now inspires more than a stop. Indeed, Giverny could now be the “stop” after visiting La Roche-Guyon. More on that toward the end of this article.

From hollowed carcass…

The La Rochefoucauld family has owned the Château de la Roche-Guyon nearly continuously since 1659. Call the current head of the household Duke de La Roche-Guyon if you wish. Though titles that formerly conferred a superior legal status, rights and privileges no longer have judicial significance, they may still used honorifically.

For generations, centuries even, the chateau’s interior maintained the allure of a noble household. Prized paintings, tapestries and furniture decorated the major reception rooms. The vast library held a large, valuable collection of books. Curiosities filed shelves in an adjacent room. The death of a proprietor duke in 1964 then of his duchess in 1984 put an end to that. Rather, the inability of heirs to agree to a less dramatic way to pay the inheritance tax than selling most of the furnishings did. The historic rooms were emptied. Their contents were taken to Sothby’s auction block in 1987, leaving a tremendous void to increasingly decrepit spaces. La Roche-Guyon became a decaying carcass of a castle.

… to public funding and restoration

A branch of the La Rochefoucauld family still owns the chateau. The family has private apartments on the upper floors, which can’t be visited. Much of the rest, however, is open to the public since  the chateau has been managed and enriched by over 30 years by a public entity working under the auspices of Val d’Oise and other local administrations. Throughout France, such multilayered arrangement allows certain privately owned heritage sites to be maintained and open to the public so as to continue to be a part of the cultural landscape for more than a simple drive-by view,

Restoration of the château was the main objective in the 1990s. I made my first visit in the mid-90s, soon after it had opened to the public. The pervasive feel was of a hollow carcass, but at least it was now receiving funding for repair and could be visited. The 2000s saw the replanting and recreation of the chateau’s kitchen garden and orchard in its 18th-century configuration. Situated across the street from the chateau, that 9.4-acre enclosed garden/orchard is the second largest of its kind in the Paris region, after the Potager du Roi, the royal kitchen garden at Versailles. It earned the national label Jardin remarquable (Remarkable Garden) in 2011. By then, attention was slowly turning to refurnishing the succession of 18th-century rooms that had been emptied in 1987.

… to refurnished rooms

Within the site’s thousand-year history of construction, the 18th century marks La Roche-Guyon’s intellectual, artistic and architectural heyday. Alexandre de La Rochefoucauld (1690-1762), Duke of La Roche-Guyon, then his daughter (1716-1797), known through her marriage as the Duchess of Enville, led the way.

The duchess built what is now the main portion of the castle complex. She, especially, gave La Roche-Guyon and the La Rochefoucauld mansion in Paris their status as gathering places for writers, philosophers, political thinkers and scientist. At her home in Paris, she hosted Benjamin Franklin and John Adams, among other Americans seeking to draw France into the fight for independence.

In 2000, funding provided by the department of Val d’Oise and the state secured the purchased at auction of a series of four tapestries from 1769 presenting the Biblical story of Esther that had originally been ordered by the Duchess d’Enville for one of the chateau’s drawing rooms. The four were being auctioned off by the designer Karl Langerfield, who was then parting ways with an 18th-century collection that he’d constituted in part from the La Rochefoucauld sale of 1987. Other objects have returned under similar circumstances. A precious 18th-century inlaid desk that had graced that same room until 1987 was purchase in 2017 by a private citizen who then donated it to the state on the condition that it return to La Roche-Guyon. Others made similar gestures, as gift or loan.

Compare my photo above, taken in June 2026, with the black-and-white photos from the early 20th-century on this page showing the desk and the tapestries, among other furnishings in the grand salon.

Contemporary artists add a breath of fresh air

These small, significant and expensive steps gave a hint of the life and elegance of the chateau as a noble center for enlightened discussion, yet those furnishings were also a reminder of how much more was needed to enliven the place.

This summer marks a turning point for the chateau as the void now further recedes thanks to the addition of additional precious period furnishings and especially of works created by artists-in-residence. Going forward, a contract recently signed with the Mobilier National, the public entity that stores, maintains and lends out historic furnishings, will bear fruit next year with additional furnishings on display, ensuring that additional spaces within the chateau feel less forlorn.

In an artists-in-residence program now reaching fruition, eight artists or teams of artists were selected to help breathe fresh air into La Roche-Guyon. The program is carried out by artistic and cultural director Emmanual Morin. Three of the artists were tasked with updating visuals, maps, brochures and the chateau gift shop/ticket desk. The others were invited to create works that reveal, enrich and dialogue with the décor, the furnishings, the architecture and the prior use of certain rooms and spaces. The result is a series of accessible and often playful works anchored in specific locations. They lead visitors to linger longer both in appreciation of the works themselves and to consider the ways in which they revive and revisit the spirit of their location.

Here are some of the artists who have taken part in this enrichment campaign.

Castle map and descriptive brochure

For years, visitors purchasing their entrance ticket were handed a photocopied information sheet intended guide them through the then empty-castle. It was better than nothing, but not truly helpful in understanding the site.

Now, visitors are given an upbeat map of the castle along with an attractive information booklet providing an important primary understanding of the rooms to be visited. These are the work of graphic artist and illustrator Mathilde Arnaud. The map and the booklet, which appeal to children and adults alike, are as much souvenirs as on-site guides.

Entrance and grand staircase

Designers and plastic artists Baptiste Sévin and Jaïna Ennequin, who form Atelier Baptiste & Jaïna, have enriched the entrance and Classical grand staircase with Mineral Cuttings, as they’ve titled their work here, of ceramic and blown glass. The staircase, though lit by windows featuring the arms of La Rochefoucauld family, felt severe and incomplete prior to the introduction of their work. As with all of the artists participating in the current project, their works are not intended to transform their assigned space but rather to dialogue with the architecture and elements in which they’re integrated. Rather than draw attention to themselves, Baptiste & Jaïna’s “cuttings” soften the severity of the space while resonating with the rounded stone of the stairs, walls and banister, the window that lights the landing, and the fruit from the castle’s orchard. Their work will remain in place until 2030.

The dining room and 18th-century drawing rooms

Camille Chastang’s flamboyant, entertaining and floral creations in ceramics and textile present a trail of pleasures in the dining room and the main 18th-century drawing rooms. She has given the title Menus Plaisirs to the collection of objects that she has fashioned. That term refers to the service and budget of an aristocrat, notably a king, dedicated to small or minor (menus) pleasures (plaisirs) such as festivities, entertainment and courtly events. The artist’s Menus Plaisirs will enliven those rooms only until Nov. 1, 2026. For another room, she has designed a floral, watercolor-like wallpaper called Femmage! in honor of the women who have reigned here, in particular the Duchess of Enville. That will remain in place until 2028.

Echoes, a subtle soundtrack

Physical objects—tapestries, paintings, armchairs, tables, desks, and Camille Chastang’s trail of pleasures—help fill the void that once permeated these rooms. Add to that a subtle soundtrack created by sound designers Simon Cacheux and Julia Griner, who collectively form Atelier Blip Bloop.

Their elusive acoustics allow us to overhear the spirit of the succession of 18th-century reception and drawing rooms. It gives voice and breath to the stone architecture, the wood floors, beams and doors, the metal hinges and locks, and the nearby stables and great kitchen garden and orchard. Their soundtrack will play until 2028.

The library, the cabinet of curiosities and the orangery

From that succession of rooms, we enter the large library. Formerly home to a vast and prestigious collection of knowledge, reflections and stories, it now tells of nothing but absence. White faux book covers don’t so much fill the shelves as turn them into wordless ghosts. I would hope that an artist-in-residence will be invited before long to reconsider these shelves. Meanwhile, looking down on visitors from the upper level of the ghostly library, a mysterious creature hints at the curious menagerie in the next room.

While the library of an aristocratic family reflected a desire for knowledge and understanding as books become increasingly available, a cabinet of curiosities, adjacent here, was a more intimate, more personal space.

Cabinets of curiosities developed in Renaissance Europe as places to store, catalogue, present and examine precious objects of study, from a dinosaur fossil to a taxidermy parrot, and much in between. Numerous aristocrats designated a room for their “curiosities” in the 17th and 18th centuries, and beyond. Here, as in his enlightened library, the curator-aristocrat, whether noble savant or wannabe, could demonstrate to himself and to visitors his curiosity about the widening world as explorers, botanists and archeologist traveled the globe.

Now, sculptor Yoshikazu Goulven Le Maître has revived that spirit of curiosity with a menagerie of his own creations, titled Mirabilis and curated by Jean-Marc Dimanche.

Yoshikazu’s was the longest residency of the artists described here, leading to the most prolific creation. After viewing his works, visiting artists, crafters, scrappers and tinkerers of every age will want to pick up string, metal, fabric, buttons and minutia of any kind to start creating when they get home. Mirabilis will remain in place until 2028.

In addition to that wondrous menagerie, the artist has created larger works that can be seen in the former dog yard, situated shortly beyond the cabinet of curiosities, and a monumental bestiary in the dimly lit former orangery or greenhouse dug into the cliff, seen at the end of a visit. That bestiary, titled Fauna Fabulosa, will remain in place only until Nov. 1, 2026.

The theater

The Duchess of Enville created a precious little theater at La Roche-Guyon that is need of much restoration before being open to the public anytime. Photos of that space can be seen after the cabinet of curiosities.

As a reminder of its existence, Héllène Gaulier and Gwenolé Gasiner, of Agence GG, have designed theatrical games using pre-Industrial mechanics. One is shown by the theater and the other is shown within the medieval keep atop the cliff. Their works will remain here until 2030.

The truncated castle tower

Eventually, following an athletic climb, visitors are rewarded by the view that leads off this article, over the Seine Valley from the top of the tower of a castle keep. The tower, dating from about 1190, was at least one third taller before being beheaded, so to speak, in 1793, during the French Revolution. It was truncated to cut the notion of nobility down to size (hereditary nobility was first abolished in 1790) and to prevent such a prominent position from falling into the hand of counter-Revolutionaries. This had been a strategic location for nearly 900 years by then.

In 911, the Treaty of Epte set the border of a territory to be controlled by the Norsemen who’d conquered the territory and their descendants—the territory of Normandy. The Epte River, which flows into the Seine, runs about half a mile from here as the crow flies. On and off for centuries, that was the border between Normandy and France proper. It still represents the border between Normandy and Ile-de-France, as the Paris region is officially called. (Giverny is on the opposite side of the border.)

See this France Revisited video of the view.

Rommel at La Roche-Guyon

The Château de La Roche-Guyon’s strategic location at the border between Normandy and the Paris region explains why it served as German Marshall Edwin Rommel’s headquarters after his appointment by Hitler to oversee a large swath of the Atlantic Wall during the Second World War. The territory that he oversaw included the section of Normandy that would become the D-Day Landing Beaches.

During the Occupation, the Germans built casemates into the limestone cliff so as to protect their artillery as much as possible from Allied aerial bombing. Meanwhile, resistance activities took place in the village itself. An audiovisual installation called The Voice of the Casemates, 1944, by the French-Polish artist Tomasz Namerla will remain within the gloom of cliffside casemates until 2030.

For its WWI history alone, I’ve often suggested that those driving to the Normandy Landing Zone from Paris for several days stop here for a visit, just a 15-minute detour off the highway. Also, it makes for a nice break in the drive. Thanks to the recent cultural and art program, La Roche-Guyon now makes for an even richer break.

Visiting La Roche-Guyon with respect to Giverny

All told, the Chateau de La Roche-Guyon deserves a place on the traveler’s radar, perhaps not (yet) as a significant detour, but at the very least a stop for an hour or two or three for those driving to/from Normandy, or those planning on visiting Giverny, or those interested in also visiting the nearby natural and preserved zone called the Vexin Français.

Château de La Roche-Guyon is open daily 10am to 18am from April 1 to November 1, which more or less coincides with the opening season of Monet’s House and Gardens at Giverny. Additionally, and for the first time, the chateau will open from Dec. 5, 2026 to Jan. 4, 2027, with seasonal decorations and the creation by children’s book author Elisa Martin of a graphic novel whose action takes place at the Château de La Roche-Guyon.

Many touring companies based in Paris propose a Giverny + Versailles day trip from April 1 to Nov. 1. A Giverny + La Roche-Guyon combo, though less blockbuster, is a more natural and unhurried combo.

DIYers without a car can reach Giverny by taking the train to Vernon from Paris’s Saint Lazare Station then a shuttle or taxi or bike from Vernon. With no offense to Giverny, that’s a lot of travel and timing for relatively low touring ROI, unless you’re a hardcore Monet fan. An interesting cycling day could be made by taking the train to Vernon from Paris, renting a manual or e-bike near the Vernon train station, then visiting Giverny and La Roche-Guyon before cycling back to Vernon. That’s about 20 miles in all, mostly on narrow roads rather than designated cycling paths. (I haven’t yet done that and would like to hear from anyone who has.)

There’s a full-men restaurant by the river in the village of La Roche-Guyon, but keep it simpler, I say, by opting for lunch or a snack at the bakery near the foot of the castle or at the friendly café-bistro next to that. If La Roche-Guyon maintains its upward trajectory en route to becoming a destination, other worthy options will undoubtedly open.

© 2026 by Gary Lee Kraut

The post Château de La Roche-Guyon: A Detour en Route to Becoming a Destination appeared first on France Revisited - Life in Paris, Travel in France.

Quaismodo would be impressed were he to return now to the cathedral that he inhabited as Victor Hugo’s beloved and maligned hunchback. He would immediately feel at home within the stone walls and wooden frames of the towers of Notre-Dame. Yet the cathedral has also changed and brightened since he knew it as Hugo’s fictional bellringer in the 15th century. There are new elements and much has been restored over the centuries, including its most recent restoration from the fire of April 15, 2019. But I imagine that Quasimodo would be enthralled as we were as we climbed the southern tower, examined gargoyles and chimeras, took in the extraordinary view, stood before the great bells, and descended through the northern tower.

As you would expect, the 360-degree view of Paris is well worth the effort of climbing 424 steps, despite the chicken-wire enclosure from which we take it all in: the city’s rooftops and monuments, church towers and spires, river and bridges, and the spire of Notre-Dame itself rising right before us.

The view over the city isn’t all that makes this visit worthwhile. There’s more to the new climbing route than the grand view. Quasimodo would be in awe to stand face to face, as we did, with the cathedral’s two great bells or bourdons, though these aren’t the ones that he so loved to ring: the 6-ton bourdon Marie, cast in 2012, which sounds a do, and the 13-ton bourdon Emmanuel, cast in 1686, which sounds a fa. The latter is France’s second largest bourdon after the 18-tonner known as La Savoyarde at Sacré Coeur Basilica, the church that we see on the hill to the north.

In bringing the hunchback to life on the page in 1831, Hugo also called for new life to be breathed into the then-dilapidated cathedral. Over the ensuing decades, appointed architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc honored that call by leading a massive restoration while also reimagining missing or degraded elements, taking liberties here and there. The tower route gives a close-up view of several of the 54 animal and demon chimeras that he and an assistant designed. Those that were heavily damaged during the fire of 2019 have recently been replaced with copies, as has Viollet-le-Duc’s spire of 1859. Even if none of these were known to Quasimodo, we are tempted to do as he did and “spend whole hours crouched before one of the statues in solitary conversation with it.” But visitors today don’t have such luxury of such time when visiting the towers.

My own climbing group, comprised of journalists specialized in cultural heritage, had the enlightening pleasure of touring the towers in the company of Viollet-le-Duc’s current successor, Philippe Villeneuve, chief architect in charge of the restoration and reconstruction of Notre-Dame de Paris since the fire.

As we rose, he steered our eyes to various eras and elements of construction and major restoration. The current restoration work in response to the fire will likely continue through 2028, he said.

Even without Villeneuve’s insightful company, you’ll see along the way two major markers of his conceptual work. First, the massive oak spiral staircase, partially in double revolution, that Villeneuve designed for the passage from the second landing to the medieval stone staircase in the tower. Villeneuve’s staircase was shaped and puzzled together by an exceptional band of carpenters in Normandy. Throughout our visit, he sang praises to the dedicated, high-level artisans he’s worked with over the course of the restoration. As he points up to his work, a glimpse of the peak of the spire tatooed on his arm peeks out from beneath his sleeve.

Second, from the top of the south tower, you’ll look out to the real spire rising from the roof. It’s crowned by the flaming golden rooster—symbol of France and of the resurrected monument—that Villeneuve himself designed to replace the fallen, damaged rooster that has now been placed in one of the chapels inside the cathedral. On this national monument belong to the State, not the Church, the rooster crows above the Cross. View the full spire, accompanied by bells, on the 15-second video below.

On the way down, we glimpsed through windows “the forest” of oak beams, cut from throughout France, that form the roof beams. They replaced the medieval forest where the fire originated before consuming it into the night before the eyes of the world.

No more than 26 visitors are allowed to start the climb per 15-minute time slot. Contrast that with the lengthy queue down below leading to a shoulder-to-shoulder shuffle along the cathedral floor. Comparatively, a visit to the towers, culminating with the grand view (even if limited to 5 minutes), feels semi-private, nearly exclusive.

All that’s required is a timed ticket, to be reserved in advance, at a cost 16€ or free for under 18s and adults with the Paris Museum Paris or the Passion Monument pass. While you needn’t be a high-level athlete to climb the 424 steps to the top, do be aware of your own limitations before undertaking the endeavor. The winding staircases include some narrow passages less than 18-inches wide as well as low sections where someone over 5’10” or so is well advised to watch their head.

Along the way, there are levels to pause on, where one can learn a few historical tidbits on information panels about the towers and the bells. There is no elevator. There is no WC. Families are discouraged from bringing children under 6.

Timed ticket to the towers of Notre-Dame should be reserved only through the official site managed by France’s Center for Historical Monuments. Even free tickets require reservations.

From great heights in architectural history to great heights in culinary history

Epilogue: From great heights in architectural history we crossed over the Seine to great heights in culinary history as we pursued our conversation with Philippe Villeneuve at one of Paris’s other celebrated tours, La Tour d’Argent (The Silver Tower). That’s the famous gastronomic institution with the stunning view of the Notre-Dame’s chevet, the portion of the cathedral that radiates in an eastern flourish. Even with the crane and scaffolding that remain on that side of the cathedral, the view from the upper-floor restaurant is a sight for well-heeled, well-fed eyes. We, however, settled into the bar on the ground floor, where we were entertained and informed by Villeneuve’s insightful, cutting, wit-laden accounts of these past seven years of restoration—the wonder, the toil and the beauty of the work on the one hand and the egos, the politics and the back-stabbing on the other. Listening to his vision of architectural and decorative triumphs and failures and to his expression of emotional zeniths and nadirs, the current guardian of the temple seemed to embody both Viollet-le-Duc and Quasimodo. His thirst was quenched with water brought not by Esmeralda, however, but by a polished server from the Tour d’Argent.

As a further treat, André Terrail, owner of the Tour d’Argent made a gracious appearance. While the restaurant is heir to a history that begins with the creation of an elegant inn on this site in 1582, Terrail is heir to the celebrated restaurant that his grandfather, also named André Terrail, purchased in 1911. It was then a ground-floor restaurant, raised to the top in 1936. The Tour d’Argent has now developed into something of a “village,” to use the current Terrail’s term, with its restaurant, its rooftop and ground-floor bars, its grocer next door, its bakery across the street, and beside that its rotisserie. There’s even an apartment with the fab view that can be rented for the night (1800€).

Despite the Tour d’Argent’s visual affinity for Notre-Dame, I’m not promoting it here as the natural extension of a visit to the towers, however many Michelin stars its restaurant may or may not receive in a given year (in 2026 it has 1). Nevertheless, one’s got to go somewhere after the extraordinary experience of climbing to the top of the cathedral, and it might as well be somewhere that’s also earned its place in Paris history and lore, someplace accessible, if not to Quasimode, then perhaps to the likes of Victor Hugo, Viollet-le-Duc, Philippe Villeneuve, and yourself.

© 2026 by Gary Lee Kraut

Also read Notre-Dame: An Interview with Witnesses to a Dazzling Restoration

The post The Quasimodo Climb: Visiting the Towers of Notre-Dame de Paris appeared first on France Revisited - Life in Paris, Travel in France.

But I’d like you to remove your rose-colored glasses for now as I lead you into the shadows that are the subject of my new VoiceMap audio tour Paris of Dreams and Nightmares: The Dark Side of the City of Light. Along with the charm of its route through the central Right Bank of Paris, this is an unflinching journey through France’s dark past, where torture, assassination and terror are among the building blocks of the beauty that surrounds you.

The route passes major landmarks, vibrant streets, inviting cafés, alluring pastry shops and boutiques, soaring churches, and the playful Stravinsky Fountain, as it reveals both the enchantment of the present and the cruel events of the past.

Watch this video introduction before reading on.

These aren’t ghost stories or legends that I tell; these are historical events that shaped Paris as you see it today. In understanding the terrible building blocks of the City of Light, you’ll gain an important appreciation for how its beauty and brutality have coexisted throughout history.

Here’s one location covered on a tour, a memorial garden inaugurated in the summer of 2025:

The Dark Side of the City of Light now joins my VoiceMap audio tours to the Luxembourg Garden, the Tuileries Garden, and the Champs-Elysées as another of my essential self-guided walking tours to major aspects of Paris and its culture, splendor, history, and life today.

Though VoiceMap is primarily designed to provided GPS-guided audio tour for use on site, I’ve uploaded photos for each of the tour’s locations to allow armchair travelers to fully follow along. So you can listen from your home computer or your iPhone or Android anywhere even if you don’t have Paris plans. Then use the downloaded tour again whenever you do make it Paris.

The VoiceMap Touring App is available from the Google Play Store and the App Store. On your home computer just go to VoiceMap.me. Once you’ve signed up with VoiceMap and purchased the full tour, you can listen to it on your phone, tablet or computer, or all three, on site, on the road or at home.

Even without signing up, you can listen to the first three locations before deciding whether you want to download the full tour.

If, after downloading the app, you don’t land directly on one of my tours, you’ll find them easily by searching “Gary Kraut” in the VoiceMap search block, or by clicking or tapping directly on the author’s page of these Paris audio guides.

© 2025, Gary Lee Kraut

The post Paris of Dreams and Nightmares: Exploring the Dark Side of the City of Light appeared first on France Revisited - Life in Paris, Travel in France.

On the one hand, I have a natural aversion to recommending virtual reality tours for travelers. After all, we travel to be someplace, not virtually but actually. On the other hand, virtual reality tours, in addition to being entertaining, can be informative and insightful when there’s a historical or otherwise important unseen component to complement and enhance a visit to the real deal.

Virtual historical reality tours will become increasingly immersive, seamless and sensorial in the years ahead. As they stand, aside from their entertainment value, do they help travelers on site understand and further appreciate what they’ve come to see?

Curious about the added value of the virtual historical reality tours now available within actual sight of three major monuments in Paris, Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Eiffel Tower, and the Louvre I took a test run of their respective magic goggles on site. For Notre-Dame that meant in a subterranean zone one hundred yards in front of the cathedral. For the Eiffel Tower that meant during a stroll along the Champs de Mars, the park that leads to the tower on Paris’s Right Bank. For the Louvre that meant a walk from one end of its courtyard to the other.

All three proved to be both informative, entertaining and recommendable as complements to actual visits inside of these important monuments.

Eternal Notre-Dame: Amaclio Productions’ virtual reality tour of Notre-Dame Cathedral

Notre-Dame is currently inaccessible to the general public, as it has been since the fire of 2019 destroyed its roof and steeple. The cathedral is scheduled to reopen in December 2024, though under what conditions is not yet known. The virtual reality tour, reached from an underground entrance at the far end of the square in front of the cathedral, is currently programmed to end on September 30, 2025.

Following along with a handsome, well-spoken electronic guide (choose your language), the virtual reality tour of Notre-Dame leads visitors to the doors of the cathedral then inside, through various steps of the building’s medieval construction, 19th-century restoration, and current rehabilitation. It’s an extensive tour. In 45 minutes, while walking and turning in all directions, visitors get a close-up view of the structure inside and out, from various heights, while encountering works and learning about its elements in stone, glass and wood. Visitors “ride” a platform to the upper reaches of the cathedral to stand near a rose window and then higher to visit “the forest” of oak rafters and beams that form the wooden framework, those elements that burned during the fire of 2019. Details are also given about medieval Christianity and the structure’s theological underpinnings. All is made understandable to a wide public.

Altogether, this is an excellent tour that’s as visually compelling as it is informative. And complementing the virtual tour, visitors then visit at their own pace an exhibition about the current renovation and reconstruction. Objects and models along with explanatory panels and interviews in French and in English provide visitors with a clearer understanding of elements touched on during the virtual tour: recreating the wooden framework of the forest, restoring stained glass, the grand organ and the bells, replacing stone vaulting and sculptural elements, and conducting research.

The combination of the virtual reality tour and the exhibition afterwards make for an exceptional and entertaining introduction to the cathedral for those with little prior understanding of the construction and current restoration of the cathedral and is equally fascinating for those already acquainted with Our Lady of Paris. The virtual tour last 45-minutes, to which you need to add departure time and time to visit the post-tour exhibition, so count 70-90 minutes altogether.

I recommend getting a good look at the façade of Notre-Dame and a side view as well before taking the virtual reality tour. Then, after the virtual tour and exhibition, now armed with a deeper appreciation and understanding of the architectural and artistic glory of the cathedral, reconsider the actual façade, take a walk around the full perimeter of the building, and, of course, enter to admire the Notre-Dame’s dazzling restoration and luminous interior.

Practical considerations

There’s a cost to virtual reality tours that may be prohibitive to some. The experience at Eternal Notre-Dame costs 30€99 for adults and 20€99 for children under 17, though on certain days and times adults pay the children price, particularly off season.

Groups of up to six people set off together at the same time, with individual headsets speaking in your chosen language. Each person wears a headset and carries a backpack containing what is essentially a laptop computer while walking along the underground maze. Precise instructions and indications keep you moving and prevent you from bumping into other visitors. The glasses/headset adjust well and the tour is captivating enough that it’s easy to forget the equipment and enjoy the walk. However, the backpack is bit cumbersome, and for anyone with a bad back, carrying it for 45 minutes may be uncomfortable.

Brief pauses between scenes within the virtual universe can be momentarily confusing, but the lit path and your virtual guide will return soon enough to point you in the right direction as you walk.

The minimum recommended age is 11, though children as young as 8 may be admitted. However, given the weight of the backpack and the need to precisely follow lit directional indications so as to avoid bumping into walls and, especially, other visitors, this virtual reality tour may not be appropriate for a small and fidgety preteen. Or you can hold your child’s hand as guidance.

For further information and reservations see Eternal Notre-Dame.

Eternal Notre-Dame was produced by Amaclio Productions, a company that has developed other virtual reality and sound and light shows in France, including at the Invalides in Paris, the Cité de l’Histore at La Défense (Eternal Notre-Dame is also available at that site), Mont Saint Michel, and the Carrousel of Saumur.

Viality Tour’s virtual reality and actual walking tour near the Eiffel Tower and in the courtyard of the Louvre

While Viality Tour’s virtual reality tours of the Eiffel Tower and the courtyards of the Louvre don’t have the same high production value as Amaclio’s well-financed Notre-Dame tour, what makes it worthwhile is that these tour has its iconic monuments in plain view and is given by actual human guides, and delightful ones at that. The tour was developed by the young start-up team of Vladina Flaquière and Michel Dang. One or the other may be your guide.

The Eiffel Tower: The goggle-wearing virtual portion of the tour takes users through the construction of the Eiffel Tower from 1887 to 1889 and into the Universal Exposition of 1889 for which it was built. Much of the exposition sprawled along the Champs de Mars, the very park where you’ll be walking. The Champs de Mars formerly served as the parade grounds for the nearby Military Academy (Ecole Militaire).

Vladina or Michel or an assistant rather than an avatar is your actual guide. Speaking French or English depending on the scheduled or private group, your guide explains what you see in the goggles as you stand and turn in 360 degrees. You do not walk while wearing the goggles. Instead, between virtual scenes, you then remove the goggles and approach closer and closer to the actual tower. During that time, the tour continues with the actual Eiffel Tower in view as your guide provides further details about what you see today and answers any questions you may have. So this is both a virtual and an actual tour, lasting about 75 minutes, accompanied by your affable guide and with numerous photo ops along the way.

Vladina has worked as a licensed guide at various chateaux in Brittany, the Loire Valley and Versailles, before teaming with Michel to develop Viality Tour. She continues to guide at Versailles. Michel, the equally affable tech half of the team, holds a masters in marketing and worked as a junior product marketing manager with Netgear before he and Vladina partnered to create Viality Tour. Michel does the computer modeling with the assistance of a graphic designer as well as the team’s communications work.

With or without actually going up in the tower, this is an excellent introduction to it. If unwilling to deal with the tickets, lines and crowded elevators, the Viality Tour—both its virtual and actual realities—can serve as your informative visit in and of itself.

If interested in the Viality Tour and also planning to go up the tower, try to sync the two by scheduling the Viality Tour so that it ends 15-30 minutes before the timed ticket you’ve purchased (well) in advance to go up. That will allow for a nice segue from one to the other while allowing you time to go through the security line at the tower. (Viality Tour will not purchase your Eiffel Tower ticket.)

The courtyards of the Louvre: As much as I appreciated Viality’s Eiffel Tower tour, I found their Louvre tour even more interesting and informative. Visitors to the museum are typically unaware of the Louvre’s evolution over the past 800 years from fortress to castle to palace to museum, and even less aware that it was once connected to another palace, the Tuileries Palace. On an outdoor walk with several virtual reality stops from the far eastern end of the Louvre to nearly its far western end, this tour guides visitors through various eras of the construction of the Louvre and the Tuileries, up until 1871, when the latter was set ablaze by the Paris Commune. You’ll near forget the hundreds of people queuing up for the museum and milling about… until the end when you join them.

You don’t have to join them just yet, however, since the Viality Louvre tour make for a nice complement to the audio-guide that I’ve created to the Tuileries Garden for the VoiceMap app, The Tuileries Garden: The Royal Walk from the Louvre to the Champs-Elysées. The Viality Tour ends about where mine starts, with minimal overlap.

The Eiffel Tower tour lasts about 75 minutes. The Louvre tour last 10-15 minutes longer. Each costs 29€ for adults and 19€ for children 8 to 17. Children under 8 are not accepted. Groups can consist of up to 10 people.

For further information and for the tour schedule see the Viality Tour website. Though the indicated language of the tour may be French, it may also be conducted in English, so inquire about that possibility when reserving. With sufficient advance planning, privatization for your own group may be possible upon request.

Vladina and Michel plan to extend the Viality Tour concept to other major monuments of the city over the coming years.

© 2024, 2025 Gary Lee Kraut

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As we watched the flames rise and the spire fall on Notre-Dame Cathedral on April 15, 2019, those who lived in or had visited Paris before felt a nearly personal sense of loss. Notre-Dame was truly “our” Lady, whether beheld with the eyes of a Catholic or not. Even among the hundreds of millions who saw images of the conflagration but hadn’t yet had the pleasure of visiting the French capital, many spoke of the event as a calamity or a tragedy. Many would wallow in those feelings for days.

But for some, there was little time for heartache. The fire was a call to action—for firemen, the president and government officials (Notre-Dame belongs to the French state), Catholic Church officials, historical architects, scaffolders, logisticians, restoration specialists, foundation managers who would accept pledges and funds amounting to 840 million euros (940 million dollars at the time), lumberjacks, quarriers, etc., and journalists and photographers as well. I, myself, took a call from NBC Philadelphia the night of the fire. But once the (lead) dust had settled, media entrance to the cathedral was carefully limited.

Among those who repeatedly gained access to the wounded monument from 2020 to 2024, few journalists covered the restoration project as thoroughly as Sophie Laurant, senior history and cultural heritage reporter for Le Pèlerin, a weekly Christian general news magazine, France’s oldest continually published magazine (1873).

Even fewer, if any, photographers were authorized to enter the worksite as frequently and extensively as Stéphane Compoint, an independent photojournalist specialized in architecture, cultural heritage and aerial photography, and a World Press Photo winner, tasked with Le Pèlerin to cover the restoration project. Stéphane had earned his stripes as a photographer of Notre-Dame well before the fire; in 2013 he’d made major photographic study the cathedral for a special edition of Le Pèlerin, producing photographs that became precious historical documentation of the state of the cathedral before the fire. From the date of the fire until its reopening, he photographed Notre-Dame on 63 occasions from the inside and nearly as many times from outside.

Several days after the reopening of the cathedral to Catholic and non-Catholic visitors alike on December 8, I had the opportunity to interview Sophie and Stéphane, in writing. As you will read in the combined interview below, theirs is a precious testimony to the restoration process and to its technical achievements, its emotional impact, and the collective and individual investment involved, including their own.

(The original, French version of these interviews can be read here.)

Gary Lee Kraut: In your work you demonstrate an acute sensitivity toward heritage sights in general and religious heritage sights in particular. You’ve undoubtedly visited all of the Gothic cathedrals of France? But before examining these structures with the eyes of a professional journalist and photographer, what was your relationship with these magnificent mastodons of the Middle Ages? Do you recall the first time that you visited Notre-Dame?

Stéphane Compoint: A Parisian forever, I grew up in the 6th arrondissement. My grade school and high school were near Notre-Dame. The cathedral has always been a part of my immediate landscape.

My family was rather secular, even anticlerical. But my maternal grandfather drew closer to the God of the Catholic religion after the tragic death of his oldest son (my uncle), who died from drowning while trying to save a friend, who survived. He therefore became a believer and started going regularly to mass, often taking me with him to churches in the neighborhood (Saint Germain des Près, Saint Sulpice, Saint Séverin, Notre-Dame des Champs, Saint Germain l’Auxerrois, along with Notre-Dame) ever since I was a child. At the very least that taught me to be patient because at six years old mass can seem long. If I was well-behaved, I’d get a box of Legos afterwards!

Sophie Laurant: I grew up in Bourges, a lovely medieval town located in the very center of France. The town has one of France’s most beautiful Gothic cathedrals, built starting in 1195. It rose slightly after Notre-Dame (whose construction was launched in 1163) and is a contemporary of Chartres. Furthermore, my father was a history professor and often gave tours of the monument, of which the inhabitants are quite proud, whenever friends or family were visiting. So I learned at a young age how to distinguish Gothic art from Romanesque art. My father explained to us that Bourges was famous for the red of its stained-glass windows whereas it’s the blue of Chartres that dazzled. He pointed out that our cathedral, unlike most, didn’t have a transept but the shape of the overturned hull of a boat.

I don’t recall the first time that I visited Notre-Dame de Paris. It was undoubtedly with my parents when we went up to Paris as tourists. However, I do remember that when I was a university student [in Paris] I went in one Sunday afternoon when I was feeling quite lonely in the capital. By chance I arrived just when the traditional weekly organ concert was going on. It was magnificent. I went back several times afterward, especially since it was free, which is a blessing for a student.

Gary Lee Kraut: Where were you on Monday April 15, 2019 when you learned that Notre-Dame was in flames. How did your evening unfold?

Stéphane Compoint: I was at home, heaving with sobs! But I quickly got into a long phone conversation with Catherine Lalanne, the editor-in-chief of Le Pèlerin, which projected us both into the immediate future and into action, which did me a world of good. Because it was Monday, the day the weeklies go to press, we had to put in place an appropriate editorial strategy right away, modify the issue due to come out on the following Thursday, and launch a special edition that would be published the following Friday. We didn’t get many hours of sleep that week, but at least we were working rather than sitting passively faced with the enormous loss.

Sophie Laurant: While I was in the metro on my way home from work, I received a text from a colleague, but I didn’t realize how serious it was—not until I reached the foot of my building and got a call from my editor, Catherine Lalanne. She’d just asked that the deadline for our weekly edition going to press be pushed back since it was on its way to the printing press, as every Monday evening. She just had time to insert a large photo and a caption. I then followed the events on TV, while at the same time speaking with a friend who does restorations of historical monuments who explained to me that the outbreak of a fire is the nightmare of companies that restore roofing frameworks. I didn’t turn off the TV until it was clear that the monument had been saved. And the next morning I intentionally took a bus to work that passes by the cathedral. I had to see with my own eyes that it was still there. I even took a picture through the bus window to reassure myself. As soon as I arrived at work, we decided to republish our special edition that we’d brought out in 2013 for the cathedral’s 850th anniversary, adding in updated information. For each copy sold, 1€ was donated to the Notre-Dame fund. We sold 33,000 copies and therefore, from the start, had the feeling that we were being useful. It was important to overcome the disaster. Moreover, the architects [responsible for restoring Notre-Dame] asked to consult Stéphane’s photographs, which at that point had become historical documents.

Gary Lee Kraut: When were able to enter Notre-Dame for the first time following the fire? Tell us how that unfolded and about your impressions.

Stéphane Compoint: Despite its status as a Christian weekly, the negotiations between Le Pèlerin and the state’s media communications directors for the restauration project to allow me to enter the site were difficult. Finally, our salvation came from General Georgelin* himself, the person overseeing the cathedral’s restoration, a believer who was sensitive to the mid-elevation photographic work that I’d done with a tethered balloon in 2013 for the 850th anniversary of the cathedral. We gave him large prints of these photographs and he decorated his office with them. I was able to enter the wounded cathedral for the first time on March 3, 2020, ten and a half months after the fire.

Sophie Laurant: I finally went inside Notre-Dame on October 21, 2020. During the first year [after the fire] the teams were busy with decontaminating the lead and consolidating the cathedral. Also, under the management of General Georgelin, a very strict, top-down administration was put in place to filter press requests. Luckly, Le Pèlerin had published in 2013 a special edition magazine entirely devoted to Notre-Dame, prepared with assistance from the clergy. Stéphane was able to enter for an initial post-fire photo reportage in March 2020. Catherine than insisted—incessantly—to the general and to the communications services for the restoration project that Le Pèlerin wanted a print journalist to be able to enter. They finally accepted for us to become “partners,” allowing us to regularly follow the rehabilitation in pictures and in text. I didn’t go often, but more than most other media.

I have an indelible memory from that first visit of climbing scaffolding, of the incredible view over Paris that then revealed itself. When I reached the top of the walls of the cathedral, I had a view of the charred beams that were still stuck into the angles of the crossing of the transept. That’s all that remained of the base of the spire! It was then that I fully realized the extend of the task that lay ahead.

* GLK note: Notre-Dame Cathedral belongs to the French state and so it is the state’s responsibility to maintain the edifice. The day following the fire, President Emmanuel Macron announced his wish that the reconstruction be complete within five years. General Jean-Louis Georgelin was appointed to spearhead the project the next day. General Georgelin did not live to see it reopened since he died in a hiking accident on August 18, 2023.

Gary Lee Kraut: Carrying out the research necessary for the restoration project gave specialists the opportunity to deepen their knowledge of the building and its history. Were there any discoveries or analyses that particularly surprised or impressed you?

Sophie Laurant: Yes, the researchers were the first to mobilize, immediately after the fire. At the Association des Journalistes du Patrimoine*, we quickly organized press encounters with some of them. Their primary message was the following: “We have a lot of information about Notre-Dame and we have to put it to the service of the restoration.” Immediately, the architects** asked them to take sample, to carry out analyses and studies, to make surveys and collect data throughout the monument in order to document as much as possible all of the elements, including the debris. These details studies enabled them to refine their restoration strategy. For example, to select a limestone very similar to the origin when cutting new stones.

Over those five years, the specialists discovered enormous amounts of information about Notre-Dame. For example, that the walls were consolidated by enormous iron staples. We didn’t think that that technique had been so used in the 12th century.

But the most spectacular discovery is undoubtedly the uncovering during the archeological digs at the crossing of the transept of high-quality pieces of sculptures from the medieval jube [also known as a rood or choir screen in English]. That decorative wall enclosed the church’s chancel, separating the sacred space where mass was said from the more secular space of the nave where the public came to hear (but not see) the service. Catholic liturgy evolved in the 16th century, prompted by the Protestant Reform movement. Jubes were destroyed in almost all churches and cathedrals in order to bring the clergy and the congregation closer together and allow a better understanding the ceremonial rites. However, since the sculpted figures represented Christ, Mary, the Apostles, etc., the workers had the habit of piously burying their pieces on site as they removed them. That’s why archeologists have found pieces of the jube in many cathedrals, such as in Bourges or Chartres. What’s incredible here at Notre-Dame is that sculptures retained colors that would have been lost if they’d stayed in contact with the air inside the building. On certain figures from the Gospels, we see that they have blue eyes or a delicately pink complexion, as in illuminated manuscript from the period. It’s magnificent! They’re now exhibited at the Cluny Museum of the Middle Ages in Paris. I also learned that one of the heads found during prior work on the cathedral in the 19th century, and that’s now found at Duke University in North Carolina, fits perfectly with a bust that was found in March 2022. For a project called “Notre-Dame in color,” the American researcher Jennifer Feltman is pursuing research with French colleagues to gather together the different pieces.

Stéphane Compoint: As a photo-journalist I’ve participated in many campaigns of archeological excavations throughout the world (Egypt, Turkey, Peru, Chili, etc.), including underwater excavations of the Lighthouse of Alexandria from 1995 to 1997, for which I won a World Press Photo. I was particularly moved by the discovery of the medieval jube in the spring of 2022. Seeing the face of Christ, eyes closed, emerging from the archeologists’ large and small brushes in the middle of the crossing of the transept is something that I’ll never forget. I also remember the reaction of the chief archeologist, who was right next to me at that moment: “The greatest emotion of my career!” Since I was the only press photographer on site that day, it gave me even greater professional satisfaction.

* GLK note: The Association des Journalistes du Patrimoine is France’s association of journalists covering all manner of cultural heritage. From 2016 to 2022, Sophie Laurant served as its president. Gary Lee Kraut served as the association’s secretary general 2016-2020. Stéphane Compoint is also a member.

** GLK note: In France, historical monuments are preserved by specialized architects known as “Architectes des Bâtiments de France.” These civil servants entrust restoration projects to other specialists, the “architectes en chef des Monuments historiques.” Philippe Villeneuve is the chief architect in charge of the cathedral restoration project.

Gary Lee Kraut: Over the course of your respective work, you’ve met many craftsmen, workers and managers of the restoration project, in Paris and throughout France. Are there any whose approach or personality particularly impressed or fascinated you?

Sophie Laurant: They were all high-level, passionate craftsmen. I especially appreciated meeting the painting restorer Marie Parant, who coordinated one of the groups that restored the paintings in the chapels of the choir of Notre-Dame. A great admirer of Eugène Viollet-le-Duc*, the architect who painted them in the 19th century, she invited me to visit her workshop near Bastille to show me documents and help me understand the quality of the colors. She also participated in the “chorale des compagnons,” a chorus consisting of all those who took part in the restoration, whether archeologists, logistic specialists, stone cutters, etc. The chorus sang inside the cathedral on Dec. 11, [several days after its reopening,] to celebrate the working community that they formed together. We could sense a real “Notre-Dame effect” that had unified them, a mix of pride with respect to the monument, of the joy of working on a common project, and a fervor for something greater than themselves individually.

I was also struck by the strong personality of Loïc Desmonts, a young lead carpenter (only 25 years old!), who’s redeveloping in Normandy the art of building wooden framework using medieval methods. He and his team cut wood while it’s still green using hand tools. He also promotes the “French-style scribing tradition in timber framing,” which is a way of creating on the ground a full-scale drawing of each piece of the frame before cutting it. That tradition of scribing has existed since the 13th century and is recognized by UNESCO on its list of “intangible cultural heritage of humanity.” While visiting him, I met members of the NGO “Carpenters Without Borders.” Among them were two American craftsmen who spoke to me with tears in their eyes of their love for Notre-Dame, the reason that they came to France to give a hand to their French colleagues. There are in fact very few carpenters anywhere in the world with the know-how to cut the framework in the way it was done back in the day.

Finally, there’s Iris Serrières, a stained-glass artist who works in the company run by her mother, the stained-glass restorer and creator Flavie Vincent-Petit, in Troyes [100 miles southeast of Paris]. When I met this deliberate and joyful young woman, she was hesitating between becoming a theologian and a master glassmaking! Maybe, she said, she could do both. The family workshop restored a portion of the cathedral’s 24 upper bay windows. The two women shared with me their feeling about being a part of a long line of master-glassmakers and of rediscovering how and continuing “to combine intelligence, gesture and spirituality” so that “these windows were again legible.”

Stéphane Compoint: I was impressed by the encyclopedic knowledge that Philippe Villeneuve, the chief architect, has of the monument and by the sound way in which he made decisions that were crucial but far from obvious in the days following the fire. I also appreciated the personality of the head scaffolder, Didier Cuiset, whose academic training is limited but whose know-how is exceptional. Like many journeymen, he comes from a modest background and was brought up with little inclination to speak of oneself, but he had to learn how to explain what he knows and how he knows it in order to satisfy the media. He made a lot of progress in five years.

*GLK note: Viollet-le-Duc led a major restoration of Notre-Dame in the middle of the 19th century. In doing so, he also added new elements, some of which existed but in different forms over the centuries, including the spire that collapsed during the fire and has since been rebuilt.

Gary Lee Kraut: Was there a moment during your journalistic or photographic work inside the cathedral that particularly surprised you or that has left a lasting impression?

Sophie Laurant: There was one moment that I’ll remember for a long time. It was in the spring of 2022 when I decided to interview the crane operator who was piloting the crane from 80 meters (262 feet) overhead. The crane was there throughout the entire project. In order to reach him, I had to take an elevator up to a tiny platform, 60 meters (197 feet) up, and from there climb a caged ladder the final 20 meters (65 feet) before reaching his heated and comfortable cabin. I had vertigo from the start, and I was afraid of stopping paralyzed in the middle of the ladder, suspended in mid-air. I decided that I’d rather give up on attempting the final ascent, because if ever I blocked ongoing work due to a panic attack, I undoubtedly would never be given permission onto the site again. The crane operator, very much at ease up there, offered instead to conduct the interview on the tiny platform! I wasn’t so calm there either, but I didn’t dare refuse. So in the cold and the wind, with the crane lightly swaying, I gathered my courage, avoided look down at the miniscule workers working down below on the temporary roof of Notre-Dame, and I asked him my questions. I’m rather proud to have succeeded because at home I have vertigo on a stool!

Stéphane Compoint: In the summer of 2020, at the end of a day photographing inside the cathedral, at one-thirty in the morning, I was struck by an unexpected encounter with the top of the charred spire imbedded in the exterior curve of an arch of the nave. I’d entered the building at 7:30 a.m. and hadn’t eaten or drunk for 18 hours, but that vision, that photo, was well worth the effort! In the fall of 2020, I also had that first long-awaited overall exterior view that took in all of the devastated wood framing, which I was able to take thanks for a giant tripod (of my own creation) that I’d raised about 15 meters (49 feet) above the devastated transept crossing.

Gary Lee Kraut: Do you feel that the public was sufficiently informed throughout the rehabilitation period? Did you encounter any difficulties doing your journalistic work?

Sophie Laurant: In the end a lot of articles were written. The entire international press covered the project, from near and from far. It’s true that the public powers overseeing the project were selective in choosing media that could enter the site and they limited access. Some of the reasons are understandable. The cathedral was entirely covered in lead dust. We had to get entirely undressed in a special chamber, put on a disposable boilersuit, and take a shower and shampoo when we finally left, like all workers who enter a “contaminated zone.” Furthermore, the project had to be done in five years, so the teams didn’t have much time to devote to the press. Clearly, it was difficult for the journalists to endure, to have to incessantly request authorization to interview anyone involved in the project. But at Le Pèlerin we had the privilege of being able to follow operations on a regular basis. I entered the cathedral seven times over five years. Stéphane entered far more frequently.

Gary Lee Kraut: Sophie, you wrote most of the text and, Stéphane, you took the photographs for the special edition of Le Pèlerin about the “exceptional construction site” of Notre-Dame published to coincide with the reopening of the cathedral. Does this signal the end of the Notre-Dame adventure for you or will you continue to report on and photograph Notre-Dame?

Stéphane Compoint: After the reopening, Le Pèlerin will naturally reduce its written and photographic coverage of the construction site. Nevertheless, work will continue for about another three years on the exterior of the cathedral, particularly around the apse and the buttresses of the nave and the chancel. We’ll try to be present at key moments during that work.

Sophie Laurant: We’re going to continue to follow the restoration which is now focused on the chevet [east end] and gables of the cathedral, outside. Stéphane will also try to exhaustively document the cathedral as it today, as he did in 2013. And we’re going to be very attentive to the choice of master glassmaker who will be designing new windows for the southern side of the nave; the installation of contemporary tapestries in the northern chapel in the next 18 months; the upcoming creation of a museum decided to Notre-Dame in the Hôtel-Dieu [the old hospital that occupies one side of the square in front of cathedral], and the square itself that will be entirely remodeled and modernize so as to allow for a better reception and flow for visitors. We’ll likely be publishing many of these reports on our internet site over the coming years.

Gary Lee Kraut: Having followed the restoration these past five years, has your view of the cathedral changed?

Sophie Laurant: Yes. I now know it very well, whereas before it was just one of many cathedrals that I didn’t enter very often before the fire. And I remember its grey walls, the semi-darkness, the crowds. Now it’s blond, clean, extremely well lit, and that showcases the paintings (now all cleaned) unlike in any other church in France.

Stéphane Compoint: The first thing that changed in my view of the cathedral was that I was better able to measure the extent to which the work of the builders of the 12th and 13th centuries is full of technical achievements. Being able to listen to lead architects speaking often and at length on site is worth any number of lectures in a lecture hall. I therefore learned a lot of fascinating things about a field—architecture—that has always interested me (my father was an architect). And the way I see Notre-Dame has changed because we’ve gone from a dark cathedral to a luminous cathedral, and, like many photographers, I like the light! Finally, I know that from now on I’ll see images of the expert craftsmen and journeymen at work superimposed onto my actual view whenever I visit the restored cathedral, and that’s a privilege.

To learn more about Sophie Laurant’s journalistic work, see here. 
To learn more about Stéphane Compoint’s photographic work, see here. 
Entrance to Notre-Dame Cathedral is free. Timed reservations are not required but can help avoid long lines, especially during busy periods. For a timed reservation, see here. 

© 2024 Gary Lee Kraut / France Revisited

The post Notre-Dame: An Interview with Witnesses to a Dazzling Restoration appeared first on France Revisited - Life in Paris, Travel in France.

En regardant les flammes s’élever et la flèche tomber sur la cathédrale Notre-Dame le 15 avril 2019, ceux qui vivaient à Paris ou l’avaient déjà visitée ont ressenti un sentiment de perte presque personnel. Notre-Dame était vraiment « notre » Dame, qu’elle soit vue dans les yeux d’un croyant ou non. Même parmi les centaines de millions de personnes qui ont vu les images du sinistre mais n’ont pas encore eu le plaisir de visiter la capitale française, beaucoup ont qualifié l’événement de calamité ou de tragédie. La plupart ont éprouvé ce sentiment de perte durant des jours.

Mais pour certains, il n’y a pas eu de temps pour le chagrin. L’incendie a été un appel à l’action – pour les pompiers, le Président et les représentants de l’Etat (Notre-Dame appartient à l’État français), ceux de l’Église catholique, les architectes des monuments historiques, les échafaudeurs, les logisticiens, les spécialistes de la restauration, les responsables des fondations qui ont accepté puis géré des dons s’élevant à 840 millions d’euros (940 millions de dollars à l’époque), etc. Même activité intense chez les journalistes et les photographes. J’ai moi-même reçu un appel de la chaîne américaine NBC Philadelphie la nuit de l’incendie, mais aucun média ne pouvait entrer dans la cathédrale durant ces premiers moments. Et même plus tard, lorsque le risque d’inhaler de la poussière de plomb a diminué, l’entrée de médias a été très soigneusement limitée.

Parmi ceux qui ont pu entrer à plusieurs reprises dans le monument meurtri entre 2020 et 2024, se trouvent la journaliste Sophie Laurant et le photographe Stéphane Compoint, tous deux travaillant pour Le Pèlerin, un hebdomadaire chrétien d’informations générales, le plus ancien hebdomadaire de France à être publié sans interruption depuis sa fondation, en 1873.

Peu de journalistes ont été autorisés à pénétrer dans la cathédrale pendant la période de restauration aussi souvent que Sophie Laurant, grand reporter histoire et patrimoine au Pèlerin. Et encore moins de photographes ont obtenu des autorisations aussi fréquemment et aussi largement que Stéphane Compoint, photojournaliste indépendant spécialisé dans l’architecture, le patrimoine et la photographie aérienne, et lauréat du World Press Photo, chargé par Le Pèlerin de couvrir le projet de restauration. Stéphane avait gagné ses galons de photographe de Notre-Dame bien avant l’incendie puisqu’en 2013, il avait réalisé une étude photographique majeure de la cathédrale pour une édition spéciale du Pèlerin, produisant des photographies qui sont devenues une documentation historique précieuse de l’état de la cathédrale avant l’incendie. Entre la date de l’incendie et la réouverture, il a photographié Notre-Dame à 63 reprises de l’intérieur et presque autant de l’extérieur !

Quelques jours après la réouverture de la cathédrale aux visiteurs—catholiques et non catholiques—le 8 décembre, j’ai eu l’occasion d’interviewer Sophie et Stéphane, par écrit. Comme vous pourrez le lire dans l’entretien combiné ci-dessous, il s’agit d’un témoignage précieux sur le processus de restauration et ses réalisations techniques, sur son impact émotionnel et sur l’investissement collectif et individuel, y compris le leur.

Gary Lee Kraut : De par votre travail vous avez une sensibilité aiguisée pour le patrimoine en général et pour le patrimoine religieux en particulier. Vous devez bien connaître toutes les cathédrales gothiques de France. Mais avant de voir ces édifices de l’œil d’un journaliste professionnel, quel était votre rapport avec ces magnifiques mastodontes du moyen âge ? Vous rappelez-vous de la toute première fois que vous avez visité Notre-Dame ?

Stéphane Compoint : Parisien depuis toujours, j’ai grandi dans le 6ème arrondissement, mes collège et lycée étaient très proches de Notre Dame : la cathédrale a toujours fait partie de mon paysage proche !

Ma famille était plutôt laïque, voire anticléricale… Mais mon grand-père maternel s’est rapproché du Dieu de la religion catholique après la disparition tragique de son fils ainé (mon oncle, donc), qui est mort noyé en voulant sauver un ami, lequel s’en est sorti. Il est donc devenu croyant, s’est mis à aller à la messe régulièrement et m’emmenait très souvent dans les églises du quartier (Saint Germain des Prés, Saint-Sulpice, Saint Séverin, Notre Dame des Champs, Saint Germain l’Auxerrois mais aussi Notre Dame) dès mon plus jeune âge. Au moins, ça m’a appris à être patient car, à l’âge de 6 ans, la messe peut sembler longue ! Si j’étais sage, j’avais droit à une boite de Lego à la sortie !

Sophie Laurant : D’abord, j’ai grandi à Bourges, une jolie cité médiévale située exactement au centre de la France. Or, cette ville possède l’une des plus belles cathédrales gothiques de France, construite à partir de 1195. Elle est légèrement postérieure à Notre-Dame (dont le chantier commence en 1163) et contemporaine de Chartres. En outre, mon père était professeur d’histoire et faisait souvent visiter ce monument dont tous les habitants sont fiers, à des amis ou des membres de la famille venus en visite. Si bien que j’ai appris très jeune à distinguer l’art gothique de l’art roman ! Mon père nous expliquait que Bourges était fameux pour le rouge de ses vitraux alors qu’à Chartres, c’était le bleu qui éblouissait. Il nous faisait remarquer que notre cathédrale, contrairement à la plupart, n’avait pas de transept mais une forme de carène de bateau renversée.

Je ne me souviens pas en revanche de ma première visite à Notre-Dame de Paris. Ce fut sans doute avec mes parents, lorsque nous « montions » à Paris en touristes. Cependant, je me rappelle que lorsque j’étais étudiante, j’étais entrée, un peu par hasard, un dimanche après-midi où je me sentais très seule dans la capitale. Et, par hasard, je suis tombée au moment du traditionnel concert d’orgue hebdomadaire. C’était magnifique et je suis ensuite revenue plusieurs fois. Surtout que c’était gratuit : une aubaine pour une étudiante !

Gary Lee Kraut : Où étiez-vous le 15 avril 2019 quand vous avec pris appris que Notre-Dame était en flammes et comment s’est déroulé votre soirée ?

Stéphane Compoint : J’étais chez moi, attaqué par des sanglots ! Mais je suis entré très vite dans une longue conversation téléphonique avec Catherine Lalanne (la rédactrice en chef de Pèlerin), ce qui nous a tous les deux projetés dans un futur proche et dans l’action, ce qui m’a fait un bien fou ! Car nous étions un lundi, jour de bouclage des hebdomadaires, et il a fallu tout de suite mettre en place une stratégie éditoriale adaptée, modifier l’édition à paraitre le jeudi suivant et mettre en route un n° hors-série à paraitre le vendredi suivant…. La semaine fut très courte en heures de sommeil mais au moins nous étions dans le travail plutôt que passif face à cette immense perte !

Sophie Laurant : J’étais dans le métro, je rentrais chez moi du travail. J’ai reçu le SMS d’une consœur, mais je n’ai pas réalisé que c’était grave. C’est seulement arrivée au pied de mon immeuble que j’ai reçu l’appel de ma rédactrice en chef, Catherine Lalanne : elle venait de demander qu’on recule le bouclage de notre numéro hebdomadaire qui partait à l’imprimerie, comme tous les lundis soirs. Elle a juste eu le temps de faire insérer une grande photo avec une légende. Du coup, j’ai suivi tous les événements devant ma télévision, tout en dialoguant avec un ami restaurateur de monuments historiques qui m’expliquait que les départs de feu sont la terreur des entreprises qui restaurent les charpentes. Je n’ai éteint la télé que lorsqu’on a appris que le monument était sauvé. Et le lendemain matin, je suis passée exprès en bus devant la cathédrale : j’avais besoin de vérifier de mes yeux qu’elle était toujours bien là. J’ai même pris une photo à travers la vitre, un peu rassurée. Dès je suis arrivée au journal, nous avons décidé de republier notre hors-série paru en 2013 pour les 850 ans de la cathédrale, avec évidemment une actualisation. Sur chaque numéro, 1 € était reversé pour la collecte en faveur de Notre-Dame. Nous avons vendu 33 000 exemplaires… Nous avons donc eu, dès le début, le sentiment d’être utiles. C’était important pour surmonter ce désastre. D’ailleurs, les architectes ont demandé à consulter les images de Stéphane qui devenaient des documents historiques.

Gary Lee Kraut : Quand avez-vous pu rentrer à Notre-Dame pour la première fois après l’incendie ? Pouvez-vous nous raconter l’aventure et vos impressions ?

Stéphane Compoint : Malgré le statut d’hebdomadaire chrétien, les tractations entre Le Pèlerin et les responsables médias du chantier pour me laisser accéder au site furent très difficiles. Finalement, c’est du général Jean-Louis Georgelin lui-même (chef de l’Établissement Public chargé de reconstruire la cathédrale*), croyant et sensible au travail photographique à mi-hauteur (en ballon captif) que j’avais réalisé en 2013 pour le 850e anniversaire de la cathédrale, que viendra le salut. Nous lui avons offert des grands tirages de ces photographies, avec lesquelles il a décoré son bureau… Et j’ai pu entrer pour la première fois dans la cathédrale blessée le 3 mars 2020, soit 10 mois et demi après l’incendie.

Sophie Laurant : Ce fut seulement le 21 octobre 2020. Car durant la première année, les équipes étaient occupées à dépolluer le plomb et à consolider la cathédrale. En outre, se mettait en place, sous la direction du général Georgelin nommé par le président de la République Emmanuel Macron, toute une administration pyramidale qui filtrait les demandes de la presse. Heureusement, au Pèlerin, nous avions publié en 2013, un hors-série entièrement consacré à Notre-Dame, réalisé avec l’aide du clergé. Stéphane a pu déjà effectuer un premier reportage en mars 2020. Ensuite, Catherine a insisté, insisté sans cesse, auprès du général et du service de communication de cet établissement public chargé de la restauration. Finalement, ils ont accepté que nous soyons « partenaires », c’est-à-dire, que nous puissions assez régulièrement, suivre le chantier, en images et en textes. Ce n’était pas beaucoup mais c’était plus que la plupart des autres médias.

De cette première visite, je garde le souvenir des échafaudages à escalader, de la vue incroyable sur Paris qui se dévoilait alors. Quand nous sommes arrivés sur le sommet des murs de la cathédrale, j’ai vu les poutres calcinées encore fichées dans les angles de la croisée du transept : c’était ce qui restait de la base de la flèche ! J’ai ressenti une impression de désolation. Là, tout à coup, je me rendais compte de l’ampleur de la tâche qu’il restait à accomplir.

* NDLR : La cathédrale Notre-Dame étant propriété de l’État français, c’est à l’État qu’incombe l’entretien de l’édifice. Dès le lendemain de l’incendie, le président Emmanuel Macron a annoncé son souhait que la reconstruction soit achevée dans les cinq ans. Le lendemain, le général Jean-Louis Georgelin est nommé à la tête du projet. Le général ne vivra pas le temps de la réouverture puisqu’il décède dans un accident de randonnée le 18 août 2023.

Gary Lee Kraut : Les recherches préalables à la restauration étaient l’occasion pour les spécialistes d’approfondir leurs connaissances de l’édifice et de son histoire. Y avait-il des découvertes ou des analyses qui vous ont particulièrement surprise ou impressionnée ?

Sophie Laurant : Oui, les chercheurs ont été les premiers à se mobiliser, dès le lendemain de l’incendie. A l’Association des journalistes du patrimoine*, nous avons d’ailleurs organisé très vite une rencontre avec certains d’entre eux. Leur premier message était le suivant : « nous avons beaucoup d’informations sur Notre-Dame et nous voulons les mettre au service de sa restauration. » Tout de suite après, les architectes** leur ont demandé de réaliser des prélèvements, des analyses, des études, des relevés dans le monument afin de documenter au maximum tous les éléments, y compris les débris. Ces études très poussées leur ont permis de préciser leur stratégie de restauration. Par exemple, de choisir un calcaire très similaire à celui d’origine pour tailler les pierres nouvelles.

Au fil des cinq ans, les scientifiques ont découvert énormément de nouvelles informations sur Notre-Dame. Par exemple, que ses murs étaient consolidés par d’énormes agrafes de fer. On ne pensait pas que cette technique était autant utilisée dès le XIIe siècle. Mais la découverte la plus spectaculaire est sans aucun doute, la mise au jour, lors de fouilles archéologiques à la croisée du transept, des morceaux de sculptures de grande qualité du jubé médiéval. Ce mur décoratif servait au Moyen Age à fermer le chœur de l’église et à séparer l’espace sacré où était dite la messe, de l’espace plus profane de la nef où le public venait écouter l’office (mais ne voyait pas). Au XVIe siècle, la liturgie catholique évolue, poussée par la Réforme protestante. Les jubés sont détruits dans presque toutes les églises et cathédrales afin de rapprocher le clergé de l’assistance et de mieux faire comprendre le rite.

Cependant, comme les personnages sculptés représentent le Christ, Marie, les apôtres… les ouvriers avaient l’habitude d’enterrer pieusement sur place les morceaux qu’ils démontent. C’est ainsi qu’on a retrouvé des morceaux du jubé dans de nombreuses cathédrales, comme Bourges ou Chartres. Mais là, à Notre-Dame, ce qui est incroyable c’est qu’on a pu sauvegarder les couleurs des sculptures avant que l’air ambiant ne les détruise. Et l’on découvre ainsi que certains personnages de l’Evangile ont les yeux bleus, un teint délicatement rosé, comme sur les enluminures ! C’est magnifique. On peut les voir en ce moment exposés au musée de Cluny, à Paris. Et j’ai appris qu’une tête qui avait été retrouvée au XIXe siècle lors de précédents travaux, et qui se trouve aujourd’hui à l’université américaine Duke, en Caroline du Nord, s’adapte exactement à un buste qui vient d’être retrouvé, en mars 2022. La chercheuse américaine Jennifer Feltman avec le projet « Notre-Dame in color » poursuit la recherche avec ses collègues français pour rassembler tous les morceaux…

Stéphane Compoint : En tant que photo-journaliste, j’ai participé à de nombreuses campagnes de fouilles archéologiques dans le Monde (en Égypte, Turquie, Pérou, Chili, etc.) dont celle sur les fouilles sous-marines sur les vestiges du Phare d’Alexandrie en 1995-1997, où j’ai reçu un World Press Photo. J’ai été donc particulièrement ému par la découverte des vestiges du jubé médiéval, au printemps 2022 : voir un visage du Christ, les yeux clos, émerger des brosses et pinceaux des archéologues au beau milieu de la croisée du transept, c’est quelque chose que je n’oublierai jamais. Je me souviens aussi de la réaction du chef des archéologues, qui se trouvait à côté de moi à ce moment précis : « La plus grande émotion de toute ma carrière ! ». Et puis, j’étais le seul photographe de presse sur le site ce jour-là, ce qui m’a également procuré une grande satisfaction professionnelle !

* NDLR : Sophie Laurant a été présidente de l’Association des journalistes du patrimoine du 2016 to 2022. Gary Lee Kraut servait du secrétaire général du 2016 à 2020. Stéphane Compoint est également membre.

** En France, les monuments historiques sont conservés par des architectes spécialisés appelés « architectes des Bâtiments de France ». Ces fonctionnaires confient les chantiers de restauration à d’autres spécialistes, les « architectes en chef des Monuments historiques ». Philippe Villeneuve est l’architecte en chef des monuments historiques à la tête du chantier de restauration de la cathédrale.

Gary Lee Kraut : En préparant vos articles sur les multiples facettes de la restauration, vous avez pu rencontrer de nombreux artisans, ouvriers et responsables, à Paris et à travers la France. Y a-t-il une ou plusieurs personnes dont l’approche ou la personnalité vous a particulièrement impressionnée ou fascinée ?

Sophie Laurant : Ce sont tous des passionnés et des artisans de très haut niveau. J’ai beaucoup apprécié de rencontrer la restauratrice de peintures, Marie Parant, qui a coordonné un des groupes qui restaurait les peintures des chapelles du chœur de Notre-Dame. Cette professionnelle est une admiratrice d’Eugène Viollet-le-Duc*, l’architecte qui les a peintes, au XIXe siècle et elle m’a invitée deux fois dans son atelier, à Bastille, pour me montrer sa documentation et me faire comprendre la qualité de ces couleurs. Elle a aussi participé à la chorale des compagnons qui s’est formée entre tous les intervenants, qu’ils soient archéologues, logisticiens ou tailleurs de pierre. Ils ont chanté le 11 décembre dans la cathédrale pour célébrer la communauté de travail qu’ils ont tous formé. Il y a réellement eu un « effet Notre-Dame » que nous sentions chez tous : mélange de fierté devant un tel monument, de joie de travailler à un projet commun, d’élan vers plus grand que soi.

J’ai aussi été marquée par la personnalité forte de Loïc Desmonts, un tout jeune patron charpentier (il a 25 ans), qui redéveloppe, en Normandie, l’art d’ériger des charpentes à la façon médiévale : avec ses équipes, il taille le bois encore vert et utilise des outils manuels. Il défend aussi « l’art du trait à la française » qui est une façon de tracer, à l’échelle 1, les épures de chaque pièce de charpente, sur le sol, avant de les tailler. Cet art est reconnu par l’Unesco. Chez lui, j’ai rencontré des membres de l’ONG « Charpentiers sans frontières ». Notamment deux artisans américains qui m’ont parlé, les larmes aux yeux, de leur amour pour Notre-Dame, pour laquelle ils sont venus en France, donner un coup de main à leurs collègues français. Car il existe très peu de charpentiers, dans le monde, qui savent encore tailler des charpentes à l’ancienne.

Enfin, je citerai Iris Serrière, qui est vitrailliste dans l’entreprise de sa mère, la restauratrice et créatrice de vitraux, Flavie Vincent-Petit, à Troyes. Cette jeune fille très réfléchie et joyeuse, hésitait, quand je l’ai rencontrée, entre devenir théologienne ou maître-verrier ! Peut-être, se disait-elle, qu’elle pourrait pratiquer les deux… L’atelier familial a restauré une partie des 24 baies hautes de la cathédrale. Les deux femmes m’ont confié leur émotion de s’inscrire dans une lignée de maître-verriers, de retrouver et continuer à « allier l’intelligence, le geste et la spiritualité » pour « redonner à lire ces vitraux ».

Stéphane Compoint : J’ai été très impressionné par la connaissance encyclopédique du monument par Philippe Villeneuve, l’architecte en chef, et par la sureté de ses prises de décisions, cruciales mais qui n’avait rien d’évidentes, dans les jours qui ont suivi l’incendie. J’ai aussi beaucoup apprécié la personnalité du chef des échafaudeurs, Didier Cuiset, dont le cursus académique se limite à un bac -3 mais dont le savoir-faire est exceptionnel. Comme de nombreux compagnons, il est d’origine modeste et a reçu une éducation où on est peu enclin à parler de soi-même, mais il a fallu qu’il apprenne aussi le faire-savoir pour satisfaire les médias… et il beaucoup progressé en cinq ans !

*NDLR : Viollet-le-Duc a dirigé une importante restauration de Notre-Dame au milieu du XIXe siècle. Ce faisant, il a également ajouté de nouveaux éléments, comme les chimères, ces sculptures de créatures imaginaires et en a remplacé d’autres comme la flèche qui s’est effondrée lors de l’incendie et qui a été reconstruite depuis.

Gary Lee Kraut : Y a-t-il un moment dans vos recherches qui vous a particulièrement surpris ou marqué ?

Sophie Laurant : Je pense à un moment dont je me souviendrai longtemps : au printemps 2022, je devais interviewer le grutier qui pilotait la très grande grue de 80 mètres de haut. Elle a accompagné tout le chantier. Celui-ci m’a fait monter en ascenseur jusqu’à une minuscule plateforme, à 60 mètres de haut où l’on doit ensuite prendre une échelle à crinoline pour franchir les 20 derniers mètres avant d’arriver à sa cabine chauffée et confortable… Déjà, j’avais le vertige, mais j’ai eu peur de rester paralysée au milieu de l’échelle, suspendue dans le vide… J’ai préféré renoncer, car si jamais j’avais bloqué le chantier par une crise de panique, je n’aurais sans doute plus jamais eu le droit d’entrer à nouveau. Le grutier, très à l’aise, m’a donc proposé de faire l’interview sur la minuscule plateforme ! Je n’étais guère plus tranquille, mais je n’ai pas osé refuser. Alors, dans le froid, le vent, avec la grue qui oscillait légèrement, j’ai rassemblé mon courage, évité de regarder les ouvriers minuscules qui œuvraient plus bas, sur le toit provisoire de Notre-Dame, et je lui ai posé mes questions. Je suis assez fière d’avoir réussi, car chez moi, j’ai le vertige sur un tabouret !

Stéphane Compoint : A l’été 2020, j’ai été marqué par la rencontre inattendue avec la partie sommitale de la flèche calcinée, encastrée dans l’extrados de la nef, lors d’une fin de journée de reportage, à une heure et demi du matin : j’étais entré à 7h30, sans pouvoir manger ou boire durant ces 18 heures, mais cette vision et cette photo valait bien tous ces efforts ! A l’automne 2020, il y a aussi cette première vue générale extérieure tant attendue, qui englobe toute la charpente dévastée, que j’ai pu prendre grâce à mon trépied géant (de ma conception) que j’ai élevé à une quinzaine de mètres au-dessus de la croisée dévastée.

Gary Lee Kraut : Estimez-vous que le public ait été bien informé pendant toute cette période de réhabilitation de Notre-Dame ? As-tu rencontré des difficultés en faisant tes reportages ?

Sophie Laurant : Il y a eu énormément d’articles au final. Toute la presse internationale a couvert le chantier, de près ou de loin. Mais il est vrai que l’Etablissement public a choisi les médias qui pouvaient accéder sur le chantier et a restreint l’accès. Certaines raisons sont compréhensibles : la cathédrale était entièrement couverte de poussière de plomb. Donc, il fallait se déshabiller entièrement dans un sas, se vêtir d’une combinaison jetable et prendre une douche avec shampoing au retour du reportage. Comme tous les ouvriers d’ailleurs qui pénétraient « en zone sale ». D’autre part, le chantier devait se mener en cinq ans, donc les équipes n’avaient pas beaucoup de temps à accorder à la presse. Mais c’est sûr qu’il était difficile à vivre, pour les journalistes, de devoir demander sans cesse des autorisations pour toutes les interviews des acteurs du chantier… Et encore, au Pèlerin, nous avons eu le privilège de suivre régulièrement les opérations : je suis entrée sept fois en cinq ans sur le chantier et Stéphane presque dix fois plus.

Gary Lee Kraut : Sophie, vous avez rédigé la plupart des textes, et Stéphane, vous avez pris les photos pour le hors-série important sur ce « chantier d’exception » publié par Le Pèlerin la semaine de sa réouverture. Ces reportages signalent-ils pour vous la fin de l’aventure Notre-Dame ?

Stéphane Compoint : Après la réouverture, Le Pèlerin va évidemment alléger la couverture écrite et photographique du chantier. Néanmoins, le celui-ci va durer encore trois ans environ à l’extérieur de la cathédrale, notamment au niveau de l’abside et des arcs boutants de la nef et du chœur : nous nous efforcerons donc d’être présents aux moments clés de ces travaux.

Sophie Laurant : Nous allons continuer de suivre les travaux qui désormais se concentrent sur le chevet et les pignons de la cathédrale, à l’extérieur. Stéphane va aussi essayer de documenter de manière exhaustive la cathédrale telle qu’elle est aujourd’hui, comme il l’avait fait en 2013. Et nous allons être attentifs au choix du maître-verrier qui doit proposer de nouveaux vitraux pour le sud de la nef ; à la pose de tapisseries contemporaines, dans les chapelles nord, d’ici dix-huit mois ; à la création prochaine d’un musée de l’œuvre de la cathédrale, dans l’hôtel-Dieu, sur le parvis… parvis qui va être entièrement remodelé et modernisé pour un meilleur accueil des visiteurs. Nous publierons sans doute beaucoup de ces reportages sur notre site internet, dans les années qui viennent.

Gary Lee Kraut : Après avoir suivi de près la restauration ces 5 dernières années, votre regard sur la cathédrale a-t-il changé ?

Sophie Laurant : Oui. Je la connais désormais très bien alors qu’elle n’était pour moi qu’une cathédrale parmi d’autres dans laquelle je n’entrais pas si souvent avant l’incendie. Et puis, je me souviens surtout des murs gris, de la pénombre, de la foule… Là, elle est blonde, propre, extrêmement bien éclairée. Cela met en valeur les tableaux (tous nettoyés) comme dans aucune autre église en France.

Stéphane Compoint : La première chose qui a changé dans mon regard sur la cathédrale, c’est que j’ai pu mieux mesurer à quel point le travail des bâtisseurs du XII° et XIII est parsemé de prouesses techniques ! Car pouvoir écouter régulièrement et longuement les architectes en chef sur le terrain, cela vaut tous les cours magistraux d’architecture en amphi ! J’ai donc appris beaucoup de choses passionnantes sur une discipline, l’architecture, qui m’a toujours intéressée (mon père était architecte). Quant à mon regard, il a changé car nous sommes passé d’une cathédrale obscure à une cathédrale lumineuse. Et moi, comme beaucoup de photographes, j’aime la lumière ! Enfin, je sais que, à l’avenir, je verrai des images d’artisans d’art et de compagnons au travail se superposer à ma vision actuelle lors de mes prochaines visites de la cathédrale restaurée : un privilège !

Pour en savoir plus sur le travail journalistique de Sophie Laurant, voir ici.
Pour en savoir plus sur le travail photographique de Stéphane Compoint, voir ici. 
La réservation (gratuite) pour visiter Notre-Dame n’est pas obligatoire. Cependant, elle est vivement conseillée pour un temps d’attente réduite.Voir ici. 

© 2024 Gary Lee Kraut / France Revisited

The post Interview : Notre-Dame, témoins clés d’une restauration éblouissante appeared first on France Revisited - Life in Paris, Travel in France.

Relatively well known in France but little beyond its borders, the history of the home for Jewish child refugees that operated in the pre-Alpine village of Izieu from May 1943 to April 1944 provides a remarkable glimpse of migration, childhood and caregiving under perilous conditions. It’s a story—history—that can resonate well beyond France, beyond an interest in the period of the Second World War, and beyond one religious group. It is a story of humanity and inhumanity for the ages.

However worthwhile the trek, one would have to travel well off the beaten track to visit the memorial and museum that now occupies the former children’s home in Izieu, located in an isolated hillside village 45 miles east of Lyon off the route to Chambery. But now, and until July 23, 2023, an exceptional and unexpectedly uplifting exhibition at the Museum of Jewish Art and History (MahJ) allows Parisians and visitors to Paris to examine the children’s drawings and words—with a paper “filmstrip” as pièce des résistance—and to learn of the remarkable efforts of their caregivers to allow them to flourish under perilous circumstances.

The former children’s home is now officially called Maison d’Izieu, Memorial to Exterminated Jewish Children, a name that speaks of the horror that came to 44 of the children who lived there and their caretakers. Yet the title of the exhibition at the Mahj—“You Will Always Remember Me,” Words and Drawings of the Children if Izieu—speaks above all of the creativity, comradery and well-being of the children who lived there and of the devoted and caring staff that enabled it.

Though far removed from Frank family’s Secret Annex in Amsterdam, there is, says Dominique Vidaud, director of the Maison d’Izieu, a parallel to be seen between the children’s collective body of work and the Diary of Anne Frank. As with Anne Frank’s writings, the drawings, stories and letters of the children of Izieu, supplemented here by archival documents and photographs, provide an intimate and universally understandable vision of their creators in their time and place and hopes for the future.

This is not a singularly French history. In fact, what makes their story and the exhibition particularly notable is how the children of Izieu and their caregivers, as well as authorities and villagers who sought to help or harm them, reflect a much wider view of European history and of childhood and childcare itself.

The arc holding together the three rooms of the exhibition is the memory of the remarkable caregiver and caretaker Sabine Zlatin, a woman trained as an artist who devoted herself to ensuring, during wartime and under constant threat, a form of normalcy for child refugees by creating an environment worthy of a healthy, active, developmental, educational and imaginative childhood, a survivor who went on to testify to condemn one of the prime hands of their extermination, and who spearheaded the drive to preserve their memory.

The historical context

The first of the three rooms of the exhibition presents the historical context for the existence and demise of the children’s home in Izieu. A map occupying one wall (shown below) is especially informative for visitors who are unclear of the geography of Jewish pre-war migration and wartime displacements or of the administrative borders of France during the German occupation and the location of major internment camps and of Izieu itself.

Sabine and Miron Zlatin were part of a wave of thousands of eastern European Jews of the 1920s and 1930s. Born in Russia and having lived in Poland as a teenager, Miron Zlatin (1904-1944) emigrated to France in 1924. Sabine Chwatz (1907-1996) immigrated from Poland as a young woman and reached France in 1926. They met in Nancy, in eastern France, where she was studying art and literature and he agricultural science, and married in 1927. The couple bought a poultry farm, and a decade later Miron gained national recognition in the field. Thanks to that recognition, they were both able to obtain French citizenship in 1939, shortly before the outbreak of the war. The couple had no children.

Emigrant Jews who had not obtained French nationality by the fall of 1940 or whose French nationality would be revoked were among the first in the German-occupied zone of northern France to be interned and later among the first to be deported. Yet the institution of anti-Jewish laws of 1940 and 1941 and the implementation by German occupiers and French officials of the Final Solution, the Nazi plan to eliminate Jews in territories they occupied, would eventually put Jews throughout the country in peril.

Sabine, by then naturalized French, trained and worked as a nurse with the Red Cross in the unoccupied, so-called “free” zone until hardening anti-Jewish laws caused her dismissal in February 1941. She then joined the Oeuvre de secours aux enfants (OSE), a welfare agency for Jewish children that was already active in France in the late 1930s, as a social aid to help families interned in camps in southern France and to help with the transfer of orphaned children and children otherwise separated from their family to group homes. The children in her care reflected the pan-European, as well as pan-Mediterranean, movement of Jews in the late 1930s and during the war. Most of them were born in France, Belgium, Luxembourg and Austria of parents who had previously immigrated from eastern Europe, and there were some German-born and Algerian-born children as well.

The first convoys of Jews from France destined for the Nazi death camps left for Auschwitz-Birkenau in March 1942. By July, French authorities were actively delivering Jew to the Nazis for deportation, not only adults as Germany originally requested but children under 16 as well. Whereas Jews in the unoccupied zone, though subject to anti-Jewish laws, had been largely out of reach of Nazi occupying forces, French authorities launched round-ups in the south as well beginning in August 1942. And in November that year, after American and British forces landed in North Africa, German troops took control of the formerly unoccupied zone as well, making the situation for the Jewish refugees under the Zlatins’ care more perilous. No longer safe from possible internment or deportation, those operating homes for Jewish children needed to find more secure locations. The solution for the Zlatins and others was to move to safety in the departments in the furthest edges of southeastern France, which were occupied not by Germany but by Italy.

The home for child refugees in Izieu

In search of a safe environment for the children, the Zaltins obtained permission from supportive French authorities (yes, there were some) in the departments of Hérault (southwest France), where they’d been living, and in Ain (southeast), where they sought to move, to occupy a large house in Izieu, within the Italian-controlled zone. Though Mussolini’s Italy had numerous parallel aims with Hitler’s Germany as a founding fellow member of the Axis powers, the Italians had little interest in applying the Nazi policies of exterminating Jews.

In May 1943 the Zlatins and a group of children left Lodève, in Hérault, to settle in Izieu. Though located in an isolated village where it would not call attention to itself, the “Colony for child refugees from Hérault,” as it was called, was neither hidden nor clandestine in Izieu. Neighbors and local authorities were well aware that it housed Jewish children and was operated by Jewish caregivers and teachers. Some villagers openly provided material assistance, and their children later told of playing with the children from the home.

The home in Izieu provided refuge for 105 children for various lengths of time during its 11 months of activity. Despite the material hardships (limited ration cards, cold in winter, lack of running water other than from a fountain outside) and while faced with the children’s the psychological and emotional trauma of having their parents taken from them, the Zlatins and staff sought to create an environment that would be as wholesome, creative and normal as possible for the children ages 3 to 16. Days were organized around schooling, domestic chores, outings into the immediate natural surroundings, preparing and eating meals, arts, craft and theater, individual (rather than collective) bedtime stories, sleep.

Instead of showing misery, the drawings, writings and photos presented in the second room of the exhibition reveal children being children: playful, imaginative, creative, laughing, mocking, singing, with an endless appetite for paper for their projects. For the children of Izieu, anti-Semitism and the war itself seemed to be kept at bay. Their drawings give no hint of current world events and lurking danger. Instead, we see colorful drawing of Puss and Boots, of American cowboys and Indians, of boys playing games, of a safari, of pleasing landscapes, of medieval tales, of valiant Cossacks. We see a list of classroom assignments for children aged 6 to 12. We see photographs that reveal outings as nature-filled as at any children’s camp, always with an air of solidarity. One senses a secular, French pedagogy.

The Gestapo raid

Yet Sabine Zlatin was aware that the situation was becoming increasingly perilous. Following the Italian surrender to the Allies in September 1943, Germans forces entered the former Italian-occupied zone of southeast France. Word came of Jews being arrested in the region. Faced with impending danger, she left for Montpellier on April 3, 1944 in search of a more secure location for the children. On April 6, the Gestapo raided the home and arrested nearly all those present: 44 children and seven adults, including Miron Zlatin. One child escaped through a window to safe hiding with a neighbor as the raid got underway. The deportation process—first to Drancy, the transit hub north of Paris, then to Auschwitz—then began under orders of Klaus Barbie, the infamous “Butcher of Lyon.” Miron Zlatin and two of the older children were killed by firing squad in Estonia. The others were gassed in Auschwitz, except for one adult who managed to escape.

Of the 60 other children who had passed though the home at various times in the 11 months prior to the raid, all but one appears to have survived the Holocaust, a testimony to the relative success of networks and of individuals protecting them and perhaps to their own fortitude. About 77,000 Jews from France perished in the Holocaust while approximately 75% of the overall Jewish population of France at the start of the war survived. More specifically 88% of French Jews, 58% of non-French Jewish and 85% of Jewish children survived. Among the survivors who had spent time at Izieu was Paul Niedermann, subject of this 2014 interview by Janet Hulstrand for France Revisited. In 1987, Klaus Barbie was sentence to life imprisonment for crimes against humanity. Sabine Zlatin testified at the trial, as did Paul Niedermann.

You will always remember me

I provide this outline of history as background for those who might not be aware of it. However, the focus of the exhibition at the MahJ is not actually on that full sweep of events. While our awareness of the arrestation and murder of the children or staff might darkly cloud our examination of the drawings and photographs, our view of them begins to be cleared by the exhibition’s emphasis on the efforts of the Zlatins and their staff to create an environment where the children under their care could develop under the best conditions possible: nutritionally, educationally, psychologically, creatively and fraternally. And our view is further cleared by the exhibition’s placing front and center the joy seen in the children’s drawings and words. They then appear luminous.

Upon her return to the site of the crime three weeks later, Sabine Zlatin gathered for safekeeping the drawings, letters and notebooks that had been left behind in the silenced house. A first commemorative ceremony was held there on April 7, 1946.

The title of this exhibition comes from a phrase that appears twice in a little notebook (below) that she found in which children wrote to their friend Mina Aronawicz as they were leaving the home while Mina was staying, as one might sign a school yearbook. Born in Brussels in 1932 to Polished parents, Mina was one of the children arrested in the Gestapo raid and killed at Auschwitz. Several months earlier, her friends wrote in her notebook: Tu te souviendras de moi. You will always remember me.

The paper “filmstrips”

The exhibition’s third room presents the creative, collective pièce des résistance of the exhibition: three “filmstrips” made of sheets of paper glued together into long scrolls that bear crayon drawings and scenarios written by the children in 1943. The 2-3-yard scroll are fragments of paper “filmstrips” that were projected on a screen, as with a magic lantern, while the children provided the voices and sound effects to play out the scenarios they’d written.

The most complete of the three bands, Story of Ivan Tsarawitch, was recently made into an animated film. In 2021, the Maison d’Izieu asked Parmi les lucioles films, an animation studio based in Valence, south of Lyon, to work with students of the Emile Cohl Art School in Lyon to give movement to the crayon drawings. Students at the Aimé Césaire Middle School in suburb a Lyon provided the voices and sound effects for the film. Like the children of Izieu, the middle-school students were born to non-French parents and recently arrived in France. A documentary of the making of animated film can be viewed in that third room.

The film is a notable accomplishment in its own right. It also serves as a contemporary echo of the ideas, drawings and voices of the children of Izieu. The project, says Dominique Vidaud, director of the Maison d’Izieu, represents a prolongation of the work of the scroll’s original creators.

Of the other two bands, one lacks some text and the other lacks some drawings. Nevertheless, he says that with proper funding he who would like see them turned into animated films as well.

Sabine Zlatin eventually donated the saved material and other personal documents to the Bibliothèque National de France (BnF), the French National Library. “For the most part,” she said, “[these drawings] remained nearly forty-five years in my home. Carefully guarded, never looked at because too painful a memory.”

In 1988, she spearheaded the creation of the Museum-Memorial of the Children of Izieu, to which she donated other material. In 1994, President François Mitterrand inaugurated the museum-memorial at the former home in Izieu as a national remembrance site. Sabine Zlatin died in 1996. In 2000 the name was changed to Maison d’Izieu, Memorial to Exterminated Jewish Children.

Tu te souviendras de moi / You will always remember me, at the Musée d’art et d’histoire du Judaïsme (MahJ), 71 rue du Temple in the Marais district of Paris, 3rd arrondissement, until July 23, 2023. Descriptive panels at the entrance to each of the rooms are in English as well as French. Otherwise, exhibition notices are in French only but the displays themselves (drawings, photographs, documents) and their dates often speak for themselves. The exhibition is organized with the assistance of the BnF and the Maison d’Izieu, with support from the Fondation pour la Mémoire de la Shoah and the Fondation Rothschild. See here for opening times.

Maison d’Izieu, Mémorial des enfants juifs exterminés, 70 route de Lambraz, Izieu. See here for opening times. In 2023 and 2024, the Maison d’Izieu commemorates the 80th anniversary of the children’s home.

© 2023, Gary Lee Kraut

The post Paris Exhibition: “You Will Always Remember Me,” Words and Drawings of the Children of Izieu appeared first on France Revisited - Life in Paris, Travel in France.

Despite its significance in 20th-century history and its role in transforming the United States into a world power, the First World War sights, cemeteries and museums of France typically hold little interest for American travelers. Yet several are at Paris’s doorsteps: the Suresnes American Cemetery and the Lafayette Escadrille Memorial are both in the suburbs while the Musée de la Grande Guerre (Museum of the Great War) in Meaux is just 25 miles east along a meander in the Marne River.

In the history of the war, Meaux and the surrounding region are particularly associated with the First Battle of the Marne of September 1914 that pitted French and British forces against rapidly advancing German forces. By halting the German advance before its forces could reach Paris, the battle helped stave off a German victory while putting the belligerents on course for a long slog of trench warfare. Nearly four years later, in July 1918, the Second Battle of the Marne involved a final major German offense followed by an Allied counteroffensive that, with the participation now of American forces, would lead to the Armistice of November 11 and the defeat of Germany.

Meaux itself was not a battleground of the Second Battle of the Marne. It took place farther east and north, so the battlefields where Americans fought are therefore further out from Paris, such as in and around Chateau-Thierry, 35 miles northeast of Meaux. Yet long before the Museum of the Great War opened in 2011, Meaux had its American Monument. Also known as Tearful Liberty, the sculpture by Frederick William MacMonnies was dedicated in 1932, a gift from the United States to honor “heroic sons of France who dared all and gave all in the day of deadly peril.” The museum was created right nearby.

The core of the Museum of the Great War is the tremendous collection of objects from the First World War that had been amassed over more than 40 years by the historian and collector Jean-Pierre Verney. Under the guidance of Mayor Jean-François Copé (pictured at top of page addressing WWI reenactors), who continues to head this town of 56,000 and presides over the wider agglomeration of 107,000, the Greater Meaux region (Pays de Meaux) purchased Verney’s collection of 48,000 objects in 2005 and set about creating this museum to house them. The collection has since been enriched by thousands of additional telling objects from the war of 1914-1918, including major pieces such as a tank, a plane, a truck and artillery.

The museum’s permanent display begins by dialing back its historical clock to France’s defeat in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-1871 and the ensuing decades of conflict and rivalry between France and the powerful, newly unified Germany. Through objects rather than lengthy descriptive panels, the displays then cover the First Battle of the Marne, trench warfare, weaponry and protections, uniforms, the daily lives of soldiers, treatment of the wounded, the United States’ entrance and participation in the war, the Second Battle of the Marne, women and society, attempts at creating a lasting peace, and more.

As interesting and accessible as the museum can be for uninformed visitors, it will be especially appealing to war buffs and collectors due to the depth and breadth of the collection.

Reenactment Weekend in September

Uninformed and informed visitors alike will find no more pleasurable time to visit the museum than the first weekend in September when First World War reenactors parade through the streets of Meaux then set up camp alongside the museum.

This year’s Saturday morning parade started at the covered food market and ended an hour later at the town’s war memorial, just past the medieval cathedral. There, the reenactors gathered for the laying of wreaths and the playing of La Sonnerie aux Morts, France’s bugle call for military funerals and memorial ceremonies. (The Sunday morning parade marched through other quarters.)

The museum is informative and insightful at any time of year, yet visiting over reenactment weekend additionally gives visitors the opportunity to meet reenactors and share in their comradery and their passion for the historical period from 1914 to 1918 and its uniforms and paraphernalia and ways of life.

Meet some of the reenactors in this France Revisited video, which also contains a presentation of the museum by its director, Audrey Chaix.

Along with its vast permanent collection, the museum is currently hosting two temporary exhibitions. The first, “Trenches,” explains the complexities of the trench system that so defined fighting and near-stalemate during the war. It runs until Jan. 2, 2023. The second, Women in the Great War presents, in the forecourt of the museum, photography and archival material revealing the role of women during the war. It runs until Aug. 14, 2023.

Museum of the Great War / Musée de la Grande Guerre, Rue Lazare Ponticelli, 77100 Meaux. Open 9:30AM to 6PM daily except Tuesday. Entrance: 10€; 7€ with regional public transportation Navigo Pass and for over 65; 5€ for under 26. Free on Nov. 11 and the first Sunday of each month.

The Meaux Tourist Office, 1 place Doumer, is a 10-minute walk from the train station and several minutes past the Gothic Saint Etienne Cathedral.

Brie cheese

Meaux has more to offer than wartime memories. As cheese lovers in France are well aware, Meaux is a part of brie country. Brie is the historic name of the region directly to the east of Paris. As a location, the name has largely disappeared from the map other than at the tail end of the names of several small towns. As a cheese, brie is known around the world.

Yet Brie without a geographical title of nobility is not a protected appellation of origin—it can be produced anywhere in the world as a style of soft cow’s milk cheese. Brie de Meaux, however, can only be produced in the swath of the region that passes this way starting just east of Paris. It’s much tastier than the pasteurized bries made beyond the region and abroad. Brie de Melun (Melun is a town in the southeast of the Greater Paris region), also made from raw cow’s milk, is slightly stronger and saltier. So Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun are the bries to seek out when in France. If you’ve got a nose for cheese, it can be particularly interesting to compare the two. Cheese hunters setting out to discover the variety of regional bries might also seek out Brie Noir, a far less common brie that has been aged for about one year to the point of becoming dark, crumbly, chewy and more earthy and still stronger in taste.

In the same general area of town as the museum, one can learn about the production of appellation brie cheeses at Fromagerie de Meaux Saint Faron on rue Jehan de Brie.

Getting to Meaux from Paris

By train, Meaux is 30-40 minutes from Paris’s Gare de l’Est (East Station). No ticket is necessary for holders of the 5-zone Navigo Pass. The museum is two miles from the station. A regular bus from the Meaux station takes about 10 minutes to get there. There’s also a free shuttle to the museum from the station on weekends and during school vacations in the region.

By car, Meaux might be visited as a first stop on a day or more of touring war sights further to the east, before heading on to visit the Aisne-Marne American Cemetery, Belleau Wood and the American Monument at Chateau-Thierry.

By bike, those who wish to combine sport with a visit to the war museum can reach Meaux from Paris after a 32-mile pedal that largely follows along the Canal de l’Ourcq. The Canal de l’Ourcq begins just after the Bassin de la Villette toward the northeast edge of Paris. After a mile along the canal, the capital is left behind, then apartment buildings, train tracks and office buildings give way to suburban residential housing which eventually disappears in favor of parks, wood, fields, country roads, villages, and finally some more trafficked roads as one enters Meaux. Much of the ride is along the canal’s tow path (mostly paved, some dirt) but there are occasional stretches of road biking. Check the weather, rent a bike first thing in the morning or the previous evening, then set out at 9 or 10 for an athletic 3-hour ride or a more leisurely 4+, have lunch in town, visit the museum, then ease your way back to Paris by riding to the Meaux train station and taking your bike onto the train.

© 2022, Gary Lee Kraut

On November 10, 2022, France Revisited will be hosting Zoom conversation with a Ben Brands, a historian with the American Battle Monuments Commission, to discuss the history of the American WWI cemeteries and monuments of France and how best to visit them. Details will be sent out to subscribers of the France Revisited Newsletter.

Readers interested in private touring of the American WWI sights and other highlights in the regions where they’re located may contact Gary Lee Kraut personally by writing through this site.

The post Meaux’s Museum of the Great War, WWI Reenactors and Brie (Video) appeared first on France Revisited - Life in Paris, Travel in France.

My audio tour is available on the VoiceMap touring app. VoiceMap’s audio tour app for iOS and Android uses your device’s GPS to play audio automatically, at the right time and place. Just install the app and download my tour, then go to the starting point just outside the gates of the Tuileries Garden and begin your walk. And since I’ve included 30 beautiful photos you can even tour with me from your computer at home.

The Champs-Elysées tour starts right where my Tuileries Garden VoiceMap tour ends so that you can segue directly from one to the other.

Watch this video to learn more about my Champs-Elysées tour.

So download the tour from the VoiceMap touring app, put on your walking shoes, and join me for an enjoyable, informative and eye-popping stroll through the glory, glamour and glitz of the Champs-Elysées and its monumental bookends, Place de la Concorde and the Arc de Triomphe.

You can even listen to the first three locations of this 33-location, 90-minute tour free of charge.

This essential Paris walking tour from Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe starts … right here.

I’ve also created Paris walking tours to the Luxembourg Garden and the Tuileries Garden, along with a unique exploration of the Dark Side of the City of Light on the central Right Bank, all available on the VoiceMap app. Find all of my VoiceMap audio-tours here.

FAQ about Gary’s Paris Walking Tour for the VoiceMap app

How do VoiceMap tours work?
VoiceMap’s audio-tour app for iOS and Android uses your device’s GPS to play audio automatically, at the right time and place. Just install the app and download your tour, then go to the starting point and begin your walk.

Do I need to follow a route, or can I start the tour anywhere I like?
Tours have a fixed starting point and follow a route to a fixed end location. This allows the tour to provide turn-by-turn-directions and improves the accuracy of automatic playback. It also allows me to tell a better story as one location leads to the next. But the VoiceMap app does have a Resume option, and this allows you to pick up a tour from the closest location and carry on with it whenever you like.

Can I use tours more than once?
You can listen to your tours as often as you like using both the VoiceMap app and the VoiceMap website. Your access to tours doesn’t expire.

Can I listen to tours at home?
Yes! That’s why I’ve included 30 photos for this tour. You don’t need to travel to a tour’s starting point to listen to it. In the VoiceMap app, just select Virtual mode on the screen that displays after you download the tour. You can also listen to the whole tour at voicemap.me.

How do I access a tour using the VoiceMap app if I purchase it through the VoiceMap website?
Once you’ve purchased a tour, it’s added to your VoiceMap library. If you sign into the app using the same method you used at voicemap.me, you’ll have access to your full library of tours. This works the other way too: if you make in-app purchases using the VoiceMap app, you can access these on the VoiceMap website.

Do I need mobile data to do a VoiceMap tour?
No, VoiceMap works entirely offline if there’s no data connection, so you don’t have to pay roaming fees. Just download the tour over WiFi before you get started. And be sure that your phone’s battery is charged before you set out.

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