A Champagne Diary: 3 Grapes, 3 Lunches, 3 Dinners, a Bit of Chocolate, and...
“Drink the wine, not the label” is both a lofty and a homey approach to wine, and nowhere is that more important than with Champagne, the sparkling wine that we so readily identify with brands, romance, celebration, and money to burn that we sometimes forget that it’s wine at all.
La Ferrandaise: An Ode to a Cow and to a Region
Even after living in Paris for 30 years, Gilles Lamiot, proprietor of this highly satisfying restaurant near the Luxembourg Garden, sounds as though he’s...
Pizza Envy: A Tale of Two Hoods
It’s too much to expect Paris to have great pizza, too, yet decent single-serving, thin-crust pizza can be found in many residential neighborhoods in...
Doctor Rabbit and Monsieur Lapin
This restaurant, which I quite liked and often recommended, closed in 2011, but you can still enjoy this review from 2008.
Like any good doctor, veterinarian Dr. Jean-Francois...
An Ode to Guy Martin, Chef of Le Grand Véfour
From his youth as a rugged boy in the mountains to his position at the heights and forefront of French cuisine in Paris, Guy...
Mystery Cuisine: Adventure, Intimacy, and Knowing Smiles
Mystery Cuisine (formerly Les III O), a confidential little restaurant near Palais Royal in the center of Paris, has the feel of an exclusive...
The New Fragrance of the Paris Café
We knew we would be breathing easier when France entered the nonsmoking age in January 2008 with a full ban on smoking in enclosed public places including cafés, bars, and restaurants. But the Parisian café was previously so identified with smoke and smokers that
The Electrician
The back table by the kitchen at Kasaphani, Paris’s premier Greek Cypriot restaurant, is reserved for family and friends. Tony, the oldest of the...
Organic wines and good food at Les Fines Gueules
There are wine bars of atmosphere where you go to be a part of a crowd and there are wine bars of knowledge where...