Canard & Co: Duck Season in Paris, Year-Round
The French Southwest staked out some new territory in Paris last September when Cécile Castellan opened Canard & Co in the shadows of the Eiffel Tower. Despite the name, there’s much more than mallard on the menu, as Corinne LaBalme explains in her review of this Basque and Béarnais grocery shop and luncheonette.
Drome Provencale: Eat Like a Sixth Grader, Drink Like a Wine Enthusiast, Part 1...
Part 1: In which the author has lunch at a middle school cafeteria in the Provencal town of Nyons, realizes that he can’t remember anything from sixth grade and goes to talk to the principal.
Nasti Business in Kaysersberg, Alsace
Olivier Nasti may sound like the name of a villainous cartoon character, mean, bony, bitter and solitary, but the Olivier Nasti I met in the town of Kaysersberg in Alsace is a charming, round-cheeked chef and businessman with a strong sense family. Seven miles northwest of Colmar, in one of the small, colorful tourist-friendly towns along the Alsace wine route,...
Le Petit Verdot, Deliciously Understated on Rue du Cherche-Midi, 6th Arrondissement
There are no secrets in the Paris restaurant scene. There are, however, understated addresses that are too earnest in their devotion to good food,...
Vincent Dallet, Master Pastissier-Chocolatier in Epernay, and His Recipe for Champagne Biscuits (Biscuits Roses)
Vincent Dallet invites us into his pastry and chocolate school in Epernay to make the Champagne region's famous "biscuits roses" or "biscuits roses de Reims," known in English as champagne biscuits, and shares the recipe with our readers.
Creative Sophistication in Menton: Cocteau by the Port, Colagreco in the Hills
Menton, last stop on the French Riviera, has two major markers of creativity and sophistication, one gastronomic, one artistic: Mirazur, the outstanding restaurant of chef Mauro Colagreco, and the Jean Cocteau Museum, dedicated to a poet and artist who represents the artful high life along the coast.
Not Exactly a Restaurant Review of Quai Ouest in Saint-Cloud
This is not exactly a restaurant review of Quai Ouest, a Seine-side restaurant just west of Paris in Saint-Cloud, now owned by Valerie Thomas-Colin. Saint-Cloud very much
Tasted, Tested in Le Bourbonnais: Saint Pourcain Wines, Auvergne Cheeses, Charolais Beef
In which the author visits Le Bourbonnais, a little-known area of central France in the department of Allier within the region of Auvergne, encounters local cheeses, Charolais beef and Saint Pourcain wines, and gets smart by sticking his head in a saint's tomb.
La Bauhinia at Shangri-La: Seductively Polished Cuisine and a Little Cleavage
An evening at Le Bar and La Bauhinia at the Shangri-La Hotel in Paris reveals the seduction of an evening at a top-tier hotel... and a little cleavage.