I promised the director of sales of the admirably old-fashioned 5-star Victoria Palace Hotel that I would not refer to the dark plush green and red furnishings and the aristocratic portraits of the hotel’s bar as “Victorian.” I promised to call this style “Napoleon III.” However, if Napoleon III–whose reign (1852-1871) transformed Paris into a capital where you’d want to stay in a fine hotel, eat well, go shopping, and visit the sights–doesn’t evoke any particular style for you then you can call it bygone posh. (Note: The Victoria Palace was a 4-star hotel when this was written then officially upped to 5-star status following initial publication.)
The décor brightens to Louis Seize, Empire, and Napoleon III (not Victorian) in the 62 bedrooms, yet the sense of tradition remains undeterred. The hotel was fully renovated in 2000, but other than wifi, cable, well-positioned TVs, and air conditioning in the rooms, it fully inhabits its classic French décor, a mix of well-mannered motifs in yellow-gold, green, red, and blue-gray, with white-framed armchairs, fabric-covered walls, canopied beds (in the junior suites), and classic writing tables. Time hasn’t stood still at the Victoria Palace Hotel, it simply moves at a very livable pace.
Situated in the nook of a short street, the hotel feels confidential without snobbery and offers very good comfort without pretension. Those looking for glitter and gloss should head toward more modernista hotels in this category where, at equal price, the décor may be brighter and the space likely smaller. The rooms at the Victoria Palace are all spacious by Paris standards, with standard (“deluxe”) rooms averaging a comfortable 250 square feet and junior suites at 375 square feet. There are also four one-bedroom suites.
The Victoria Palace is a rarity in the 4-star hotel landscape of Paris in that it is owner Philippe Schmitt’s only hotel, he comes to the office here, and he lives nearby. The hotel, built in 1913, long after the deaths of the aforementioned Napoleon (1873) and Victoria (1901), was bought by Mr. Schmitt’s father in 1936. Though there are no records indicating why the hotel was originally given the name Victoria, he says that it was “probably” named in honor of Spanish Queen Victoria Eugenia.
After a drink with Michael Erwin, the director of sales, in the hotel bar (which I won’t call Victorian but where I could only think to order Port), I did some research and learned that Victoria Eugenia grew up in Victorian England and was the granddaughter of British Queen Victoria. Sufficiently disturbed by thoughts of European royalty, I then went up to my room, a junior suite that I regretted having for only one night, to write up some notes before going out to dinner.
My room, as all the rooms here, had a writing table and hotel stationery in a leather folder. That may sound standard for any hotel sporting 3, 4 or 5 stars, but in most of them you scarcely pay attention to the table unless looking for a place to empty your pocket change or set down a laptop or purse. Furthermore, in most hotels you see it as a desk not as a writing table.
Mine wasn’t anything special as writing tables go, a simple straight-legged wooden affair with a glass top, but within the old-fashioned atmosphere of the room and of the hotel I was inspired to use it to pen a letter on monogrammed VP hotel stationery, even if I had to invent a recipient:
“Dear Aunt Fedora, A short note to let you know that I’ve arrived in Paris and checked in at the lovely hotel you recommended. It’s just as you described, except that I’d call the hotel bar Napoleon III rather than Victorian. Off to dinner now. More tomorrow. Fondly, …”
If it wasn’t returned to the hotel then someone in Dayton, Ohio is now dreaming of Paris. As well she should.
Victoria Palace Hotel, 6 rue Blaise-Desgoffe, 6th arrondissement. Tel. 01 45 49 70 00. www.victoriapalace.com. Metro Saint Placide.
© 2010, Gary Lee Kraut
YOUR VICTORIA PALACE HOTEL THREE-MINUTE RADIUS GUIDE
The pace quickens by the time you get to the corner at rue de Rennes, the major artery between the Saint Germain and Montparnasse quarters. The Saint Placide metro stop is nearby. The hotel is a 10-minute walk from the boutiquey heart of the Saint Germain quarter in one direction, from the Luxembourg Garden in another, and from the brassy brasseries of the Montparnasse quarter in yet another. Within the more immediate neighborhood you’ll find the following:
– Your closest parking garage: The hotel has its own next door.
– Your closest pharmacy: Pharmacie Slakmon, 145 rue de Rennes.
– Your morning jog: A 2-mile run takes you straight to the Luxembourg Garden, once around the park, and back. Add a little over a mile for each additional lap around the park.
Your Hunger and Thirst
– Your grocery store: Franprix, at the corner by the hotel, 2 rue Blaise Desgoffe.
– Your food shops: Food shops gather on rue Notre-Dame des Champs, by the Saint-Placide metro stop. There you’ll find Gilles Vérot (#3), a great local deli that’s ever proud of having been named head cheese champion of France in 1997 (good terrines and pates if you aren’t a head cheese fan), and Thevenin (#5), a decent pastry shop-bakery. Nearby there’s a fruit and vegetable stand, a pharmacy, a Chinese take-out, and, if you’re feeling homesick, a place called Bagels and Brownies (#12).
Rue du Cherche-Midi is the other food shop zone in your neighborhood, with Bio Génération (#68-70), an organic grocery and healthy whatnot shop; fishmonger Poissonnerie Lise Yvon (#52), not because you’re planning on cooking but so that you’ll know what’s what on the menu, and Le Potager du Midi (#108), a cute little fruit and vegetable stand.
Several minutes beyond the 3-minute radius is the Raspail outdoor food market, held Tues.-Fri. 7 a.m. – 2/2:30 p.m., and its manifestation as an organic food market on Sun., same time. Also beyond the neighborhood radius are the food shops on rue de Sevres and most notably the appetizing Grande Epicerie (#38).
– Your delicious pastries: Coronova, 47 rue de l’Abbé Grégoire.
– Your chocolate shops: Philippe Pascoët, 52 rue Saint Placide, and Jean-Charles Rochoux, 16 rue d’Assas, are top choices. Also nearby are A La Mère de Famille (candied chestnuts) and Puyricard (a company based in Provence), 106 rue du Cherche-Midi.
– Your wine shops: Le Gastronaute (organic), 117 rue du Cherche-Midi; Enoteca (Italian), 77 rue du Cherche-Midi; Le Vin en Tête (varied), 53 rue Saint Placide; Le Vin en Bouche, 27 rue de l’Abbé Grégoire.
– Your cozy bistro and tearoom: L’Horloge, 72 rue du Cherche Midi.
– Your sweet little lunch and tea room: Mamie Gateaux, 66 rue du Cherche-Midi. Open 11:30 a.m. – 6 p.m.
– Your light Berber-leaning lunch and tearoom: Chez les Filles, 64 rue du Cherche-Midi. Open noon – 6 p.m. “Berber Brunch” served Sunday 12:30-5:30 p.m.
– Your reliable busy brasserie-café: Le Rousseau, 45 rue du Cherche-Midi.
– Your quirky little find: Le Petit Verdot, 75 rue du Cherche-Midi.
– Your classic, old-fashion, quality bistro specializing in meat dishes: Joséphine (Chez Dumonet), 117 rue du Cherche-Midi. Tel. 01 45 48 52 40.
– The hotel also provides a dependable list of local restaurants. Inquire at the reception.
Notable shops
– Your Paris wig and toupee shop: MC-Maison de la Chevelure, 77 rue de Vaugirard.
– Your Paris wedding gown: Les Mariées de Provence, 24 rue de l’Abbé Grégoire; Catherine Varnier, 48 rue d’Assas; Mi & Canna, 59 boulevard Raspail.
– Your luxury dog accessories: Dog & Design, 110 rue du Cherche-Midi.
– Your second-hand clothing etc. shops: Chercheminippes, 102, 109, 110, 111, 114, 124 rue du Cherche-Midi. Yes, six different shops.
– Your major electronics etc. store: FNAC, 136 rue de Rennes.
Stayed at this hotel for 3 nights earlier this week and enjoyed it immensely. The decor was charming and the staff was always attentive to our needs. The breakfst buffet was more than adequate for our needs and was a welcome start to our day.
As the Victoria Palace was also convenient to the sites of Paris either by Metro or on foot, we would definitely reccomend this lovely hotel to all who appreciate the luxury of an earlier time in history.