Nathalie Daguet: Seasonal Provence (1) – Avignon and the Bridge
Monday, March 1st, 2010- By Nathalie Daguet
When I lived in Australia and mentioned that my hometown in France was Avignon, the almost invariable reaction was for someone to sing Sur le pont d’Avignon (On the Bridge of Avignon). Could it be the single most commonly song used in French classes throughout the world? In any case it seems befitting to start a series of posts about Avignon with a few words about the history of this graceful bridge.
Flowing due south from Geneva in the Swiss Alps to the Mediterranean, the Rhone River is France’s mightiest and wildest river. Back in the Middle Ages, after Arles’s Roman antique bridge collapsed there was no bridge south of Lyons until the mouth of the river some 300 kilometres (186 miles) to the south. The river was therefore crossed by boat, a sometimes perilous expedition on this fast flowing river renown for its frequent floods and ever-shifting sandbanks.

As legend has it, in 1171 a young shepherd named Benezet who lived in the high hills of Provence and had never even seen the river, heard a voice telling him that a bridge must be built over the Rhone at Avignon. Guided by an angel he walked to the city and explained his vision to the authorities. Met by disbelief, Benezet convinced them of God’s will by lifting an enormous piece of rock which he carried to the riverbank. This so impressed the locals that fundraising started immediately and construction work began soon after.
The bridge was completed in 1185 after only eight years, a record speed for such a remarkable edifice: 22 arches, 920 metres long and 4 metres wide. The fact that Avignon was the only point in Provence where the river could be crossed safely on foot brought considerable traffic and wealth to the city, thanks to both the bridge toll and the increased economic activity. Economically, following the little shepherd’s vision was an excellent move! Benezet would eventually be named a saint and the bridge then took the name Pont Saint Benezet.

The bridge’s story doesn’t stop there. The edifice was partially destroyed by floods several times over the centuries and rebuilt every time, once more in 1628. But when the river washed away several arches again just five years later in 1633, the locals decided to abandon the site for a new one just a bit further downstream. In 1669 a new flood further destroyed the bridge and left it pretty much in the condition we know it today: out of the original 22 arches only four remain.
The photo above is of the historic Pont St Benezet in the distance as seen from under the new bridge, Pont Daladier. I never tire of photographing that old bridge from all angles, it is ever so elegant.

I took that photo during a winter flood at the Roquemaure Dam just a few kilometres upstream of Avignon. It shows how powerful the river can get.
Photos and text (c) Nathalie Daguet.
If France Revisited’s periodic dose of “Seasonal Provence” leaves you craving for more, then visit Nathalie’s bilingual daily blog, Avignon in Photos.
