I stood on the stony beach of the Riviera in the hot morning sun, watching the seagulls bobbing on the waves where the waters of the Var River flow gently out of its wide mouth to mingle with the salty Mediterranean Sea. All was quiet. It was too early in the day for the holiday beach-goers to be up. Suddenly, the seagulls lifted into the air as one, screeching loudly in protest as a large plane flew just over their heads and touched down on the Nice airport runway on the opposite bank of the river of the river.

I hadn’t come to watch the planes but to contemplate the river at its endpoint. The Var River had intrigued me since I moved to the Cote d’Azur many years ago, as I often crossed it when driving from my home in the hills behind the coast on my way to Nice or to Italy to visit my parents-in-law. From where in the Alps did it flow? Why is it called the Var when it does not flow through the region by the same name? On this hot summer day, tempted by the cooler climate of the mountains behind the city, I set out to follow it upstream in search of answers and adventure.

“This great madman, fit for nothing and incapable of being brought to its senses.” That was how Marquis Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, one of the most celebrated civil engineers in the history of France, described the 125-kilometer (78-mile) run of the Var River back in the 17th century. Its course has been partially tamed by dams and dikes over the centuries, but the Var still has a tumultuous history of disastrous flooding. In 1996 this deceptively calm river rose so quickly that the resulting floodwaters killed seven people and caused catastrophic damage to property and land along its length.

Nice and surroundings have been fully part of France since 1860. Previously, the area had various masters (Provence, Savoy, Sardinia, briefly France). At times, the Var River served as a natural border between ruling parties. A possession of the Kingdom of Sardinia in the mid-19th century, Nice and surroundings, were transferred to France, then under Napoleon III, in exchange for France’s military aid in keeping Austrian forces out of the Italian states. The Savoy region further north along the Alps was also embraced by France (and vice versa) at the time. Before the exchange, the Var territory stretched further to the east than it does now, bordering the river that gave it its name. The border of the department of Var is now drawn further west, leaving the Var River to run mostly through the department of Alpes-Maritimes, with a twist through Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, as it reaches Entrevaux.

Entrevaux

Leaving the stony beach and harried seagulls behind, I followed the road that mirrors the flow of the river, towards the Alps, now the formidable border between France and Italy. At the beginning of the drive, the river and road cuts through the middle of a wide plain corralled by steep hills on either side. Occasionally, the road passes through sleepy, candy-colored villages shaded by plane trees. Just over an hour’s drive from Nice, the medieval village of Entrevaux looms into view.

Entrevaux clings to the side of a steep rocky outcrop, protected on three sides by the swirling river. The only feasible entry to the pedestrian village is via an ancient stone bridge arching high above the turbulent waters, and through a menacing portcullis that was built to keep invading hordes out of the village streets and protect the castle perched high on the promontory above. The walk up to the castle starts from the cliff side of the town by way of a cobbled path of unshaded switchbacks. I trudged upwards in the summer heat, wishing fervently that I had brought a bottle of water. The exploration of the half-ruined castle and the spectacular views up and down the Var Valley made the hike to the top very much worth it.

The Daluis Gorge

After a rejuvenating ice cream and now armed with a large bottle of water, I returned to the car to continue the drive alongside the river. Just a five-minute drive further up the valley from Entrevaux lies the hidden entrance to the Daluis Valley. A road sign points into a tunnel chipped out of a rock wall, where the river makes a sudden right-hand turn through a narrow cut in the seemingly impenetrable cliff. As I emerged from the unlit tunnel, the valley opened out before me like a verdant Land of the Lost, with the sparkling river bordered on either side by empty green fields and steep tree-covered hills. The road then winds up into the mountains following the river and passing through the stunning, narrow Daluis Gorge. On entering the gorge, the rocks and even the road itself become a dark red color in this area formed 250-million years ago from iron-rich volcanic ash.

I stopped at the Berthéou Bridge and set out to search for a viewpoint where I could eat my picnic lunch. After a short hike over purple and red rocks, I came to the aptly named Point Subline outlook. The cliff here juts out into the gorge to give a stunning view of the entire valley from the mountain peaks at one end to the grassy plains at the other. I cautiously approached the guard-rail and peered over it to the churning river hemmed in by steep dark walls far below. After backing gingerly away from the vertiginous drop, I settled myself on a large rock and ate my sandwich while studying the vertical wall across the valley, trying to spot all the dark mouths of the mine entrances vertiginously cut into the rock walls hundreds of meters above the valley floor. From prehistoric times to the early 20th century, people risked their lives digging for copper and other sought-after minerals here, using ladders and ropes to scale the cliffs to mines that are no longer accessible.

Discovering The Source

As I travelled further up the valley and into steeper mountain terrain, the Var River became smaller, constrained by its surroundings to create waterfalls that led it on its downward path toward the sea.

In the late afternoon, I finally arrived at Estenc, a tiny village nestled at the end of the valley just below the 2,326-meter (7631-foot) high Cayolle Pass. Enjoying the cool mountain air, I walked along a signposted trail to a pretty lake, then with mounting excitement to the source of the Var just beyond the lake. I pushed through some bushes and came face to face with a very small, muddy pool leaking brackish water.

The sight was underwhelming yet it was accompanied by the great pleasure of knowing that that this humble beginning is the start of a powerful river that has had such a huge impact for centuries on the people and landscape along its length.

I stared at the mud puddle for a few minutes, then walked back to the quaint 2-star Relais de la Cayolle, the only hotel in Estenc. There, I enjoyed a hearty dinner of coq au vin and zucchini gratin, before settling in for the night. I was lulled to sleep by a silence broken only by the occasional owl hooting and the splashing of the Var River as it begins its journey through the valley and down to the coast.

If you go

Relais de la Cayolle, Route des Grandes Alpes, Hameau d’Estenc, 06470 Etraunes. The hotel has no website. To reserve a room and/or book a table at the restaurant call +33 (0)4 93 05 51 33.

For those without a car, it is possible to enjoy the rugged and spectacular views on a day trip into the Riviera’s back-country from Nice to Entrevaux on the Train des Pignes. See the official website of the Pignes tourist train for information for schedules and prices.

Text and photos © 2022, Lisa Watson.

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Call it a combination of luck and due diligence then, and as a result we hit it right at Sénanque Abbey, we hit it right on the plateau surrounding Sault, we hit it right at various points in between, and from time to time we were wowed by bright, eye-catching sunflower fields.

Stunning views of purple-blue fields of lavender in bloom are far from the only pleasure of Provence, but such images have become so engrained in the traveler’s imagination of the perfect Provence vacation that the most common question I get from those planning to visit the region is “When is the lavender in bloom?”

When is lavender in bloom, and where?

Broadly speaking, Provence’s “blue gold” blooms from early June to mid-August, even beyond, though the edges of that 10-week window can be iffy. So let’s say mid-June to late-July to be sure.

That doesn’t mean you’ll find flowering fields everywhere during that period. Lavender—both “true” lavender and the hybrid lavandin—blooms at different times, in different locations, at different altitudes. It stays in color for a month or more before being harvested, again at different times, locations, altitudes. So don’t come expecting to find all of the fields in full color throughout the summer.

Lavender fields typically begin to flower east of the Rhone River around the second week in June in the lower altitudes in the department of Drôme (particularly in its southern portion known as Drôme Provençale) and in the northern portion of the department of Vaucluse, as well as in Vaucluse’s southern portion in and around the Luberon (e.g. Gordes, Sénanque).

One morning last year, on a 7th of June, while biking along the northern side of the Luberon, after passing several brown-grey fields, I sensed a haze of the palest of purples hanging like fog over long rows of planted mounds—or it was a mirage?

Depending on the type of plant, the weather and the altitude, the flowering begins a week or two or three later on the slopes and especially plateaus further from the Rhone River in Drome, Vaucluse (e.g. Sault) and Alpes du Haute Provence (e.g. Valensole), as well as in bordering departments.

While harvesting of the lower fields may begin as early as July 1, harvesting at the higher altitudes won’t be underway until the second half of the month, possibly not until the end of July or even well into August.

If your sense of the geography of the above-mentioned areas is unclear, see this map of approximate blooming and harvest periods.

Within the periods indicated on that map, those lovely lavender fields won’t be everywhere. You may have to go looking for them. But don’t make a detour to distant fields without first asking someone in the know, such as at a local tourist office. Otherwise, you may arrive only to find long mounds of dirt, as though the fields were a graveyard for the sandworms from Dune. Imagine how disheartening it can be to arrive at a field of dreams only to be told, “Oh, you should have been here yesterday, before the harvest. It was beautiful.”

Travelers needing a lavender fix while visiting the Riviera from mid-July into August may try venturing up to the fields north of Grasse.

Several years ago, on a 6th of August, while accompanying a group that had despaired of not seeing blooming lavender fields at the lower altitudes during their stay, I called around to find out if there had been any lavender sightings that week. Armed with an answer, I then led the group on a long detour from our long-planned itinerary to the vast fields on the eastern side of the Valensole Plateau where, bingo, there it was. Though not the bright magenta or electric purple promised in the glossies or the shocking blue or dark violet seen in photowashed travelgrams, it was a sight to behold: a true pale herbal floral lavender dancing in the breeze atop rounded bushes that snaked in long curving rows pointing toward the Alps.

From year to year and zone to zone, blooming and harvest times will vary. Therefore, when asked to help travelers with planning months in advance of a trip, I advise them to think of colorful lavender fields as a treat rather than a destination so as to avoid breaking any hearts (and getting blamed when lavender dreams turn to dirt).

Learning about Lavender and Lavandin

Along with the pleasure to the eyes, shops throughout Provence sell lavender-scented and lavender-based products for the pleasure of the nose and of the skin—soaps, creams, perfumes, fragrances, sachets, etc.—and of the mouth in the case of lavender honey (the real kind from bees working in the lavender fields). For my taste, lavender honey can be too intensely lavender for most uses, but adding a few dabs to a baguette-and-butter breakfast tartine makes for a sweet and soothing start to the day.

You’ll find lavender products wherever you go in the region. Sénanque Abbey, for example, has a large selection in their shop of monastic products. Nearby, in Cabrières-d’Avignon, between L’Isle sur la Sorgue and Gordes, the Lavender Museum / Musée de la Lavande can teach you about the growing, harvesting and distilling of lavender.

This summer, I chose the Vallon des Lavandes Distillery and neighboring fields in the Sault countryside for our picture-perfect lavender education. The drive itself from the small town of Mazan, where we were staying, offered stunning views of Mont Ventoux before we rounded one final hill and the purple fields around Sault opened before us. Sault (pronounced so, not salt, with a short, crisp o) is on the Vaucluse edge of the Albion Plateau, which covers the corner where Drome, Vaucluse and Alpes du Haute Provence meet. The Albion Plateau is one of the major lavender producing areas of Provence and therefore, when in bloom, among its most photogenic.

So (pronounced Sault), after parking at the distillery, we took an easy and delightful hike along an outlined Lavender Trail. The area isn’t heavily trafficked, but be sure to watch for cars when walking on the road portion of the 5k/3mi trail. (If you drive around the plateau, don’t just stop in your tracks to take in a view but pull over to a secure area.) While you shouldn’t walk into the lavender fields out of respect for the plants and their owner’s private property, I know of no visitor who can resist stepping into the fields for a photo, including this one.

During a tour of its 1947 distillery, the staff at the Vallon de Lavande provides an excellent introduction to the planting and growth of lavender and its common hybrid lavandin and especially to the extraction of essential oils. Lavandin represents three-quarters of the harvest at the 45-hectare (111-acre) domain. It produces six times more oil than true lavender and contains far more camphor, while true lavender, we were told, currently sells for about 180€/kg, about eight times more than lavandin. Some 150kg of plant are required to extract 1kg of oil of true lavender. The deflowered plants serve as combustible for the distillation.

Since it can be quite hot in the afternoon in summer, better to hit the Lavender Trail in the morning, followed by a visit to the distillery. Then drive up the hill to the center of Sault for lunch. We enjoyed a nice meal and a wide view over the plateau from the back terrace of O Pichoun. We followed that up with a pleasant little walk-about in Sault and sniffed into several lavender shops before the pretty ride home.

Sault holds a festival to celebrate lavender in the middle of August, when any remaining flowers are usually cut down. Valensole holds its lavender festival in mid-July.

Sault Cyclists and Mont Ventoux

In Sault in summer, serious bikers abound in their tight shorts and click-clacking cycling shoes. That’s because Sault is a stop on or the starting point for three cycling loops for sporty road bikers:

– an athletic loop that follows the gorge of the Nesque River then back along the hills via Méthamis;
– a lavender-tinged loop along and around the Sault portion of the Albion Plateau,
– and a challenging, 24-km / 15-mi climb to the bald summit of Mont Ventoux, followed by a dangerously high-speed decent back toward Sault.

Regarding the ascension of Mont Ventoux, in-shape road cyclists and those on electric bikes might feel that the first 10 miles from Sault are no more than strenuous, but the true test of fitness comes with the final 10-degree assault. Though the climb from Sault is challenging, the other two ascension routes to the top of Ventoux—from Malaucène and from Bédoin—are even more so, which is why Sault makes for a more popular basecamp. The mountains summit has recently been made more cyclist and pedestrian friendly. Be sure to check the weather report before setting out.

Spelt and Goats

Along with sightings of lavender fields, fruit orchards (cherries, almonds, apricots, etc.) and the occasional sunflower field, you may not recognize fields of small spelt (petit épeautre in French), an ancient grain that’s at home in the hills and plateaus of Provence to the east of Ventoux in the departments of Vaucluse and Haute (Upper) Provence. You’ll find petit épeautre listed on menus as an accompaniment to fish and meat dishes in the region. It’s prepared in much the same way as rice. You may also come across some goats as you bike or drive through the region, which is to be expected given the abundance of goat cheese in the local food markets.

Addresses and further information

Lavender distillery: Sylvie and Thierry Barjot’s Vallon des Lavandes, 965 Route du Vallon (Ancienne route d’Aurel), Le Vallon, one mile north of the village of Sault. Open for free visits July and Aug. Mon-Sat. and upon reservation April-June and Sept.-Oct. See schedule here. There’s a small lavender shop on site.

For other lavender addresses in Vaucluse see here.

Restaurant: O Pichoun, Avenue de la Promenade, Sault. Ask to be seated on the back terrace. Reservations recommended in summer and weekends.

Hotel: In Sault, the 3-star Hôtel Le Nesk, popular with cyclists, can also be a stopover for lavender hunters.

Cycling: In preparing your cycling trip, a good resource is the official cycling site of the department of Vaucluse, which provides information on routes, rental shops, bike-friendly accommodations, luggage transportation services, etc.). But don’t hesitate to be a cyclist without borders so as to connect with the neighboring department of Drôme to the north and Alpes de Haute Provence to the east. In Sault, Albion Cycles, which rents and repairs bikes, can advise on local cycling routes once in the area. Cyclists can also follow portions of the extensive lavender routes described here.

© 2022, Gary Lee Kraut

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