France Revisited http://francerevisited.com Just another WordPress site Wed, 27 Oct 2010 14:21:28 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 en 1.0 http://francerevisited.com http://francerevisited.com all-travel-is-local american-time americans-in-france archicture-heritage-patrimoine art-and-exhibits brittany cities-and-towns discover-travel explore-encounter family-friends-strangers food-and-drink franceExplore, Encounter holidays-and-celebrations landscapes language-literature-poetry meet-the-frenchExplore, Encounter music-and-song music-theater-song normandy paris-surroundingsExplore, Encounter photos savor-sip-shop-sleep sports-well-beingExplore, Encounter the-arts-and-artful-travelers the-editor%e2%80%99s-blogs the-french the-green-traveler the-guest-forum the-riviera the-weather uncategorized videos welcome-guest-bloggers writing-and-journalism art-sculptureThe Arts and Artful Travelers boutiques-fashionSavor, Sip, Shop, Sleep creative-writingThe Arts and Artful Travelers 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cooking-class corso cote-dazur couscous crepes cristal-room croissant cuisine cupcakes customer-service d-day dance dancing david-finkle daytrips dinan dinard dogwood dreyfus earth-day ecology emerald-coast employees epernay est etiquette european-heritage-days exhibit exhibition exterminators falafel family family-travel festival fete-du-citron filbert food-and-drink food-and-drink-2 food-and-drink-3 food-market fougeres france francophile french-mentality french-workers friends friends-and-strangers galleries gardens gare-de-lest gare-du-nord gary-lee-kraut gastronomy gene-kelly giverny gospel government grand-vefour grapes green-travels guy-martin haiku hautvillers hazelnut henri herter holidays holidays-and-celebrations honorary-consul host-family hot-chocolate hot-springs hotel-du-nord hotels icons ile-de-la-cite israel ivan-leroux jacques-cartier jean-francois-quinton jewish joanne-silver joe-wilkins jordan-zell june junior-year-abroad kendra-hinton king la-ferte-bernard la-roche-guyon lac-du-bourget lamar-alexander landing-beaches laura laura-barton laval lemon-festival les-halles linden literature lorraine los-angeles louvre lunch mail markets medan menton milwaukee missing-paris miyou mona-lisa monsieurivan monsieur-ivan montmartre monuments moroccan mother motorbiking moulin-rouge moumoon museum museums mushrooms music music-and-song music_theater_song musicals napoleon napoleon-iii naps nature neighborhoods new-jersey nice nightlife nimes nobility normandy nuit-blanche owners oysters pagoda palmes-academiques parade parc-de-sceaux paris paris-historique paris-plage parks pastries patrimoine philadelphia philadelphia-2 philadelphia-3 philadephia photography-2 photography-3 photography-4 photos picnic pierre-vimont pigeons pizza plane poem poems poetry poissy politics pompidou post-office preservation provence publications reims relics rental-car republican restaurants rhythm river road-trip rodin roland-garros royal-heritage sabbatical saint-malo sainte-chapelle sardine savoie savoy seine sensing service shooting shops shotguns sisters skytrees snow socca song songs songwriting soul southwest spa spring statue stephanie-sommers street street-food students suburbs sunday-lunch t-shirts tea techno-parade the-french the-green-traveler riviera the-riviera weather the-weather theater theater-2 theater-3 toulouse train train-station translation travel travel-advice travelworld trees trip-report us-in-france u-s-in-france utah-beach va-nu-pieds vendee versailles veterans vichy victor-hugo video vietnamese views villennes villette vincennes vincent-mooney vineyards wald weather-2 weather-3 weekly-address wine winemaking winter wwii young-travelers http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 Auto Draft http://francerevisited.com/?p=3 Thu, 01 Jan 1970 00:00:00 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/?p=3 3 2010-10-27 14:30:03 0000-00-00 00:00:00 open open auto-draft 0 0 post 0 Hurricanes, economics, and war http://francerevisited.com/?p=13 Tue, 02 Sep 2008 22:23:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=13 Just got back to Paris from Berlin where I was dumbfounded to find that BBC, CNN, Al Jazeera, German radio, and the American papers (online) could speak of nothing but the weather! Weather talk continues in Paris. And today a friend wrote from California to reassure me that her friend's family in Texas and Louisiana are alright. Sure it’s hurricane season in America, but it seems that the entire western world has been hoodwinked by the international department of economic and war development into focusing our attention on the weather (with much of that talk being about 3-year-old weather)—God’s work, some would say—so that we can leave all that messy human stuff to the earthly powers that be.

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13 2008-09-02 22:23:33 2008-09-02 22:23:33 open open hurricanes-economics-and-war publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock
No one has friends at times like this http://francerevisited.com/?p=24 Wed, 01 Oct 2008 10:22:09 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=24 24 2008-10-01 10:22:09 2008-10-01 10:22:09 open open friends-and-moving publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last Van Dyck portraits http://francerevisited.com/?p=25 Wed, 08 Oct 2008 11:43:14 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=3 wow! of the Van Dyck exhibit isn’t understanding the artist’s place in art history or even being able to distinguish him from the others but the wonder of looking into the eyes of the people he painted. Hated the paintings of English aristocracy, their faces and poses made skin crawl, but got drawn into many of the others. Loved the painting below, a double portrait with two brothers. It’s the contrast and similarity of the two that I find so striking, the ironic regard of the one, the fleeing yet intense gaze of the other. [caption id="attachment_9" align="aligncenter" width="251" caption="Lucas and Cornelis de Wael, 1627, Antoon Van Dyck. Pinacoteca Capitolina, Rome."]Lucas and Cornelis de Wael, 1627, Antoon Van Dyck. Pinacoteca Capitolina, Rome.[/caption]  Now how do I write an article about that?]]> 25 2008-10-08 11:43:14 2008-10-08 11:43:14 open open van-dyck-portraits-put-a-little-humanity-in-your-art publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last Lucas and Cornelis de Wael http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=9 Tue, 14 Oct 2008 21:01:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/vandyck-dewaelbrothersblog.jpg 9 2008-10-14 21:01:38 2008-10-14 21:01:38 open open vandyck-dewaelbrothersblog inherit 25 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/vandyck-dewaelbrothersblog.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata A feel-good evening and a tough next day http://francerevisited.com/?p=28 Tue, 14 Oct 2008 22:10:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=28 Harry’s Bar yesterday. Hadn’t been there in six years, with L. that time too. You got to hand it to Harry’s, it never changes. It’s a Parisian slice of Pax Americana, eternally 1950s but never outdated, a businessman’s “finally out of the foreign city, bartender give me a…” kind of place. The bartender executes: efficient, nonchalant, with or without a sense of humor, it’s hard to tell.   L. took the open stool; she ran Paris’s 20K race the day before. We ordered mojitos, possibly because that’s what we had the last time we came. We watched the bartender mash the mint. The current numbers of their ongoing straw poll was drawn on the mirror: Obama-Biden 69, McCain-Palin 40. (Harry’s poll picked Kerry in 2004 but Bush in 2000.) They sell hotdogs here.   Harry’s is like an opium den but with stiff, pricey drinks. It’s saloon doors and wood, mirror, framed portrait, bottle-and-glass décor exude both community and loneliness. You can make bar friends at Harry’s, an evening’s worth, possibly more. You can while away a few hours. If I were a business traveler staying in the area I would come here then tell people back home that I don’t really get much time to see Paris when I travel. And it would be true.   Do ask, do tell, that’s the policy of my relationship with L., but since is a blog not a diary mums the word. We were in no rush to leave our stools (after 30 minutes I’d snagged one, too) yet decided that having a second mojito wasn’t a good idea.   We went to Gallopin for dinner. Gallopin is behind the stock market, and there’s no problem getting a table at a handsome restaurant by the stock market these days. Gallopin, which opened in 1876, is one of the few historical brasseries that remains in private, non-group hands. The waiter treated us with slow, gentle consideration as though either he or we were in an asylum. L. had a delicious, tender lamb served with potato-something-or-other. I had a thick filet of beef—satisfying and done just as I’d ordered, but less tasty than the lamb—served with string beans, fries, and a béarnaise sauce. I’m not into béarnaise, but L. took a spoonful. A bit of wine: Saint Estephe, a merlot-heavy blend from the northern end of the Bordeaux region’s Médoc vineyards. For dessert in this classic, comfortable, well-heeled, very Parisian brasserie, L. couldn’t resist ordering the classic French baba, a rum-soaked sponge cake. For me, a sablé (a sweet and buttery biscuit) topped with un-seasonal strawberries and whipped cream. Polished fine brasserie fare.   L. isn’t feeling well today. She says it had something to do with her baba and my béarnaise yesterday, but I think it was because she was already sick and had nevertheless run Paris’s 20K race the day before.   Harry’s (New York) Bar, 5 rue Daunou, 2nd arrondissement. Metro: Opera. www.harrys-bar.fr. Open daily 10am-4am.   Gallopin. 40 rue Notre Dame des Victoires, 2nd arrondissement. Metro: Bourse. Open daily noon to midnight. www.brasseriegallopin.com.]]> 28 2008-10-14 22:10:33 2008-10-14 22:10:33 open open a-feel-good-evening-and-a-tough-next-day publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock Ristorante Italiano http://francerevisited.com/?p=35 Wed, 15 Oct 2008 21:03:05 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=35 Sapido, an Italian restaurant between Palais Royal and the Opera Quarter. Came across it yesterday when looking for something new in the area. A small, refined yet accessible restaurant with non-descript décor and comfortable chairs, it caught my eye on a street that otherwise full earns its moniker Little Japan, rue Sainte-Anne. We ordered like twins: eggplant-parmesan-tomato appetizer followed by a langoustine and mascarpone risotto for her, ditto for me, only I. had a glass of white and I had a glass of red. Not lunchtime drinkers on a typical work day but we had something to celebrate. Voices echo because of the square open space and naked walls, but we liked the window seat. I’ll go back sometime to test it for a real review. A good find. Sapido, 51 bis rue Saint-Anne, 2nd arrondissement. Tel. 01 42 86 17 17. Metro Pyramides or Quatre-Septembre. Open lunch and dinner Mon.-Fri.]]> 35 2008-10-15 21:03:05 2008-10-15 21:03:05 open open ristorante-italiano publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last restoblog http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=46 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 23:04:34 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/restoblog.jpg 46 2008-10-25 23:04:34 2008-10-25 23:04:34 open open restoblog inherit 45 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/restoblog.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata menublog http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=47 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 23:06:17 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/menublog.jpg 47 2008-10-25 23:06:17 2008-10-25 23:06:17 open open menublog inherit 45 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/menublog.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata menublog1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=48 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 23:10:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/menublog1.jpg 48 2008-10-25 23:10:16 2008-10-25 23:10:16 open open menublog1 inherit 45 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/menublog1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata On the job: testing Le Cotte Roti http://francerevisited.com/?p=45 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 23:23:14 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=45   Here's another: Thanks, Fabien. I think I'll go back and take my own. Le Cotte Roti, 1 rue de Cotte, 12 arrondissement. Metro Ledru Rollin. Tel. 01 43 45 06 37. Closed Sun., Mon.]]> 45 2008-10-25 23:23:14 2008-10-25 23:23:14 open open secrets-of-france-revisiteds-food-drink-section publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last menublog2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=53 Sat, 25 Oct 2008 23:38:31 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/menublog2.jpg 53 2008-10-25 23:38:31 2008-10-25 23:38:31 open open menublog2 inherit 45 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/menublog2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata A friend of a friend is a stranger http://francerevisited.com/?p=61 Tue, 28 Oct 2008 23:00:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=61 61 2008-10-28 23:00:26 2008-10-28 23:00:26 open open a-friend-of-a-friend-is-a-stranger publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last Seeking guest bloggers for France Revisited http://francerevisited.com/?p=948 Sat, 01 Nov 2008 02:00:15 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=3 948 2008-11-01 02:00:15 2008-11-01 02:00:15 open open seeking-guest-bloggers-for-france-revisited publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 12 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=553 67.18.19.226 2009-12-22 01:39:46 2009-12-22 01:39:46 1 pingback 0 0 On becoming a pundit http://francerevisited.com/?p=88 Sat, 08 Nov 2008 01:43:36 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=88 In the Food & Drink section of this site I note that traveling in France turns everyone into a food critic. In the same way, an American election, especially this one, turns everyone into a pundit. Including me. I used to be quite reserved in my punditry, but on Election Day I got a phone call from Hervé Guillemot, the host of a radio program on Radio France Internationale, inviting me to be a guest on his show the following day to discuss the U.S. election results. The show is called "Les visiteurs du jour." I suppose that I was invited to represent the (French-speaking American) man on the street (of Paris), otherwise there was no reason to ask for my opinion on the subject. The host had gotten my name from a French journalist friend of mine. During my ten-minute appearance in the studio at Maison de Radio-France (photo) I had nothing original or remarkable to say, but I managed to give clear (I believe) answers to every question without hesitation, which is what the exercise of being on the radio is all about. I already knew that from several radio experiences in the U.S. And now I knew that being a pundit requires no more than opening one’s mouth and spouting conventional wisdom mixed in with some personal experience and a few well-placed so-called facts, and to do so until someone interrupts you. It’s as simple as that. Within a minute you actually start to believe that you have something to say. You think: If people are listening, if the host keeps asking me questions, and if no one is correcting my French then I must indeed have something to say. And so you speak until finally the host says, "We’ll be back right after the news," shakes your hand, and thanks you for coming. With my new-found confidence in the strength of my opinions I went home and wrote a two-line Letter to the Editor and e-mailed it to The New York Times. On Friday, two days later, I learned that it had been published in that morning’s paper. I found out from my mother, who sent me an e-mail telling me that that a friend of hers had seen my name in the Times. My mother further noted that I’m the first person in the family to have a Letter to the Editor in the NY Times since her brother, my Uncle Donald, was published on that page in 1945. (No one else has tried, as far as we know.) Since then I’ve heard from a half-dozen others who saw my little letter. And happy as I am to have added two lines to my CV in a single week— 1. Spouted wisdom on French radio, 2. Opined in The NY Times —I’m slightly dismayed by the thought that when I write two lines in two minutes I hear from people I haven’t heard from in years whereas I write thousands of lines over countless hours and dead silence ensues. The thing about punditry, I’ve found, is that the moment someone pays attention to your words you start to think that you have something to say, not just about subjects you’re supposed to know about, such as where to enjoy a good bottle of organic Côte du Rhône, but about whatever the day’s headlines may be, and then some. But as a newly minted know-it-all there are two ways this punditry thing can go: 1. you can turn out to be like the Straw Man after the Wizard tells him that the only difference between him and recognizably intelligent people is a diploma (i.e. a microphone or op-ed column) and so start spouting the Pythagorean Theorem, 2. or you can turn out to be like Joe the Plumber. As a writer involved in a new online travel magazine I don’t think I’ll take my chances on full-time punditry right now. Come to think of it, it’s rather consoling to know that I can write thousands of lines without hearing from anyone. After all, I imagine that life for the pundit gets very lonely when they take the microphone or op-ed column away. For the writer it’s just the opposite.]]> 88 2008-11-08 01:43:36 2008-11-08 01:43:36 open open on-becoming-a-pundit publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 11nov http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=85 Tue, 11 Nov 2008 21:55:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/11nov.jpg 85 2008-11-11 21:55:33 2008-11-11 21:55:33 open open 11nov inherit 84 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/11nov.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Armistice Day, November 11 http://francerevisited.com/?p=84 Tue, 11 Nov 2008 21:58:31 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=84 ]]> 84 2008-11-11 21:58:31 2008-11-11 21:58:31 open open armistice-day-november-11 publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock radiofranceblog http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=89 Wed, 12 Nov 2008 01:48:08 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/radiofranceblog.jpg 89 2008-11-12 01:48:08 2008-11-12 01:48:08 open open radiofranceblog inherit 88 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/radiofranceblog.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata radiofranceblog1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=95 Wed, 12 Nov 2008 01:59:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/radiofranceblog1.jpg 95 2008-11-12 01:59:13 2008-11-12 01:59:13 open open radiofranceblog1 inherit 88 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/radiofranceblog1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Organic wines and more at Les Fines Gueules http://francerevisited.com/?p=175 Sun, 23 Nov 2008 06:51:39 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=104 la vie parisienne before heading back to the U.S. for six weeks I stopped with two friends at what is currently my favorite wine bar in Paris, Les Fines Gueules.   Sometime next year I’ll prepare a detailed article about the Paris wine bar scene circa 2009, the fruit of my research in creating Wine & Dine tours for some high-end travel agents looking for unique approaches to exploring Paris for their individual travelers. For now though I’ll simply note that there are wine bars of atmosphere where you go to be a part of a crowd and there are wine bars of knowledge where you go to do some tasting in good company. Les Fines Gueules, slang for “the refined palates,” is among the most notable of the latter. What I find so appealing about the place is that it's at once friendly, classy, and unpretentious—and moderately priced.   Les Fines Gueules might be more appropriately considered a restaurant with a bar area up front than a wine bar, but I always approach it as a wine bar where I might eventually stay for dinner. I therefore like to stop by with friends relatively early in the Paris evening, say between 6:30 and 7:30, when there are few others around. We sit on the stools before the stylish curve of the zinc bar and, after giving some indication of our likes and dislikes, let ourselves be talked into whatever owner Arnaud Pradol or the friendly barman on duty thinks we should try among the great selection of organic wines. Accompanied with a platter, small or large, of organic cheeses and cold cuts, plans for dinner elsewhere typically get put off until eventually we order a main course. Yesterday that meant sea bass with risotto.   The photo below shows Arnaud Pradol discussing the Saint Joseph that we ordered. Notice behind him the beautiful red manual deli slicer from about 1950.   Les Fines Gueules, 43 rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs, 1st arrondissement. Near Place des Victoires, a 5 minute walk from metro Palais Royal or Bourse. Tel. 01 42 61 35 41.]]> 175 2008-11-23 06:51:39 2008-11-23 06:51:39 open open organic-wines-and-more-at-les-fines-gueules publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last arnaudnov08c http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=106 Sat, 29 Nov 2008 16:59:00 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/arnaudnov08c.jpg 106 2008-11-29 16:59:00 2008-11-29 16:59:00 open open arnaudnov08c inherit 175 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/arnaudnov08c.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Arnaud Pradol, Nov. 2008 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=112 Sat, 29 Nov 2008 17:15:39 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/arnaudnov08c1.jpg 112 2008-11-29 17:15:39 2008-11-29 17:15:39 open open arnaudnov08c1 inherit 175 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/arnaudnov08c1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Thanksgiving http://francerevisited.com/?p=116 Wed, 03 Dec 2008 19:06:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=116 For the January issue of France Revisited I'm preparing a series of articles about French and Francophile Philadelpia and surroundings that I'm working on while in the area this month. Reading and hearing about my work may make it appear as though I'm entirely consumed by thoughts of France and Francophilia, yet I actually have what is commonly called a life. A part of that life is family and New Jersey, where I grew up. So when not blowing my budget on testing French and French-leaning restaurants in the area, revisiting art museums, and making appointments with Francophile Philadelphians, I've been enjoying those other and sometimes finer things in life, beginning with three, full-blown, non-leftover Thanksgiving meals. First there was the one with family. Here's me with the turkey: And here are my mother (left), my sister who hosted the party (right), and some nieces and a nephew in between. The following day good friends of the family had their annual post-Thanksgiving feast for, well, good friends. Here's a picture of the spread: The third Thanksgiving came two days later with a now-annual feast at the home of a friend from high school. I have no pictures of it because I arrived after everyone had dug into the food, so you'll have to imagine the remains of a wonderfully varied Thanksgiving buffet for about 20 people, decorated cupcakes, a football game on TV, and someone challenging me to a game of ping-pong. No, we aren't in Paris anymore.]]> 116 2008-12-03 19:06:40 2008-12-03 19:06:40 open open thanksgiving publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock thanksgiving08-004 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=117 Fri, 05 Dec 2008 19:19:03 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/thanksgiving08-004.jpg 117 2008-12-05 19:19:03 2008-12-05 19:19:03 open open thanksgiving08-004 inherit 116 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/thanksgiving08-004.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata thanksgiving08-003 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=118 Fri, 05 Dec 2008 19:21:23 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/thanksgiving08-003.jpg 118 2008-12-05 19:21:23 2008-12-05 19:21:23 open open thanksgiving08-003 inherit 116 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/thanksgiving08-003.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata thanksgiving08-010 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=119 Fri, 05 Dec 2008 19:24:02 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/thanksgiving08-010.jpg 119 2008-12-05 19:24:02 2008-12-05 19:24:02 open open thanksgiving08-010 inherit 116 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/thanksgiving08-010.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata lanoramueller2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=954 Fri, 12 Dec 2008 18:45:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/lanoramueller2.jpg 954 2008-12-12 18:45:13 2008-12-12 18:45:13 open open lanoramueller2 inherit 0 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/lanoramueller2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Dunkin' Donuts and that cute little village in the Loire Valley http://francerevisited.com/?p=126 Thu, 18 Dec 2008 17:12:52 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=126 I hate to contradict more spiritual travelers, but for me actual travel is not "all about the journey." It’s about the people, the place, and me (or you) among and within them. It’s about being local. Travel local while you can and save "the journey" for when you're reflecting on things back home. That's what I say--or at least that's what I find myself thinking this afternoon having traveled to Dunkin’ Donuts in West Trenton, New Jersey.

 

It’s a new Dunkin’ Donuts, across from the Wishing-Well Laundromat and from a Lukoil gas station ($1.55 a gallon), diagonal to a 7-11. Within 100 yards there are three barber shops, a hairdresser, a pizzeria, an Italian restaurant, a small bank, an old-style American café serving breakfast and lunch, the Hall of Frames frame shop, and Common Cents Cleaners. The fire department and the hardware stores are nearby in one direction, the post office and a veterinarian in another.

 

I love to find the foreign equivalent of Americana when abroad, and now I’ve come upon the American equivalent of that favorite French travel scene whereby one stops in a café in a village in, say, the Loire Valley, and is in awe at how French everything is: the waiter, the cashier/owner, the coffee, the conversation (at least the tone and expressions if you don’t understand the words), the way people greet each other and say good-bye, the bakery next door, the wine cellar nearby, the butcher shop, the 12th-century church with the metacarpal of a local saint in a side chapel, village hall, the monument to the dead of WWI, WWII, perhaps the War in Indochina, the gas station (now $6 a gallon), the ANPE unemployment office.

 

So here I am at the West Trenton, NJ, equivalent of that French village scene. People, place, and me among and within them, having coffee and a toasted coconut donut.

 

By the counter there’s a plastic Christmas tree with donut decorations and donut boxes and coffee cups as gifts at the base. Three people are working behind the counter: a woman in DnD yellow, a woman in DnD pink, a man in a blue sweat jacket. They probably arrived not too long ago from India. They speak halting, cheerful English with the customers and a distant language with each other.

 

I step around the "Caution Wet Floor" sign, marvel at the array of donuts, and order a toasted coconut donut and coffee with milk. I comment that there was a closed gas station on this spot last time I was here. "Same owner," says the man in blue.

 

I pay and take my coffee and donut to a seat at a table by the window.

 

The woman in pink and the man in blue are serving customers who enter one every minute or so. There’s never a line since each takes a cash register when necessary, something that’s unimaginable in France. The people behind the counter are always smiling and friendly and greet everyone as a regular. Perhaps they are.

 

 

A stout woman is buying gift cards at one register when a policeman stops in for coffee "cream, sugar, and put some extra sugar in there." The tall, chesty cop tells the stout woman, "Great choice, beats wrappin’ gifts." The woman now tells an earnest story of how she knows a bunch of women who occasionally meet at Dunkin’ Donuts. She says to the man in blue, "I bet you’ve never sold anyone fifteen $5 gift cards before." The man smiles and says, "Many friends, very good." The woman continues with her story, telling how some of those friends live in Trenton, others in Ewing, one in Lawrence, one across the bridge in Pennsylvania, but they always meet at Dunkin’ Donuts.

 

"Lots around," says the cop. He looks up at woman in pink, "Did you put in extra sugar?"

 

"Yes, sir" she says with a smile. "Extra sugar for our friend."

 

Taking a sip of my coffee I realize that the man in blue put sugar in mine, perhaps even extra sugar. I go up to the counter to get another cup. He’s busy with the gift cards so I tell the woman in pink that I only wanted coffee and milk.

 

"You just want milk?"

 "Yes, just milk in the coffee."

 "No sugar?"

 "Right."

 "Just milk, right?"

 "And coffee."

 "Ok. Coffee and milk, no sugar."

 

What I enjoy about this kind of sit-com dialogue is that it’s exactly the kind of dialogue I might have in, say, Portugal or Italy, except that over there I’m trying to communicate in the language of the server whereas here the server is trying to communicate in the language of the customer. Witnessing this type of dialogue repeated over and over with customers at the DnD I’m impressed by how patient both the server and the customer are in getting things right.

 

Furthermore, the clientele is so diverse that you’d think they’d come from central casting at Sesame Street. Every minute or so the door opens to let in a different character: African-American, Asian-American, a man from the subcontinent, Italian-American (I saw the flag sticker on his pick-up), a black boy and his white friend, jeans, chinos, a suit, sweats, skirts, sneakers, boots, loafers, running shoes, overweight, less overweight, big hair, middle-aged blondes, a midget, two nuns (one orders coffee with hazelnut cream, the other black, both small). They arrive in pick-ups, SUVs, a Buick, a Taurus, a Honda, a Grand Cherokee. They order donuts, coffee (always with a version of my conversation above), hot chocolate, gift cards, caramel lattes. As the white boy and his black friend turn to go the woman in pink says she has a gift for them, and she gives them a couple of donuts.

 

No one who enters takes a seat. Just me, the guy who grew up around the corner enjoying the local scene at DnD the way one might enjoy that village café in the Loire Valley.

 

Then a man takes his coffee and newspaper and sits down at the next table. He’s in his 60s, short, round, full head of gray hair. Looking at the front page he says something about the economy. I concur. He keeps his head down to the news, barely ever looks over to me, just keeps making comments, and each time I concur.

 

Now this is traveling! Tonight I’ll be testing another French restaurant in Philadelphia (my fourth so far this month), but a melted goat cheese salad and duck and overpriced pinot can’t be half as good as this.

 

I get another donut, glazed.

   
]]>
126 2008-12-18 17:12:52 2008-12-18 17:12:52 open open dunkin-donuts-and-that-little-village-in-normandy publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last
dunkindonutsdec08-003 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=127 Fri, 19 Dec 2008 20:12:32 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/dunkindonutsdec08-003.jpg 127 2008-12-19 20:12:32 2008-12-19 20:12:32 open open dunkindonutsdec08-003 inherit 126 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/dunkindonutsdec08-003.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dunkindonutsdec08-0031 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=136 Fri, 19 Dec 2008 20:35:04 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/dunkindonutsdec08-0031.jpg 136 2008-12-19 20:35:04 2008-12-19 20:35:04 open open dunkindonutsdec08-0031 inherit 126 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/dunkindonutsdec08-0031.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dunkindonutsdec08-0032 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=148 Fri, 19 Dec 2008 21:02:07 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/dunkindonutsdec08-0032.jpg 148 2008-12-19 21:02:07 2008-12-19 21:02:07 open open dunkindonutsdec08-0032 inherit 126 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/dunkindonutsdec08-0032.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata esbt http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=955 Mon, 22 Dec 2008 21:08:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/esbt.jpg 955 2008-12-22 21:08:26 2008-12-22 21:08:26 open open esbt inherit 24 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/esbt.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Welcome to two junior-year-abroad guest bloggers http://francerevisited.com/?p=959 Mon, 22 Dec 2008 21:16:51 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=24 Bessie and Emerson are both students at Hamilton College in Clinton, New York. They have already spent a semester in Paris and have done a good amount of traveling in Europe in the past few months, so they aren’t new to life and travels abroad. We’ve missed hearing the first half of the amazing experience that is the junior year abroad. But the second half promises to be rich and varied and to make for thoughtful, personal, entertaining reading. While students, parents, and educators curious about the junior-year-abroad adventure are sure to want to tune into to Bessie’s and Emerson’s posts, the experiences and reflections they write about will undoubtedly be of interest to anyone who has ever wondered what it would be like to live abroad for an extended time, or at least to be 20 again. As I write this, Bessie and Emerson are back home in the U.S. for the first time since leaving in August. I’ve asked them to write a bit about themselves for a first post at the end of December, to be followed soon after by the sample blog that they sent me several weeks ago. When they return to Paris in January for the start of their second semester—leaving their real families to return to their host families—they’ll begin providing fresh material. I hope you’ll return frequently to see what they’re up to, read their thoughts and observations, check out their photos, hear their tales of life and travel abroad, and even post your own comments.]]> 959 2008-12-22 21:16:51 2008-12-22 21:16:51 open open two-junior-year-abroad-guest-bloggers-beginning-soon publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock Croissants and more at Johnny's Take Out http://francerevisited.com/?p=183 Fri, 26 Dec 2008 19:54:50 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=177 Tony Cifelli runs the shack, which opened in September. About a year ago John Picerno, a friend of the family, told me he was going to build the shack and asked if I was interested in running it for him, but between you and me Tony was a far better choice. Admittedly, I might have found a more authentic recipe for croissants than buying them at Sam’s Club, but Tony is better suited for operating a food shack with green, red, and white awning. He and his assistant Sergio make mean sausage and meatball sandwiches, a tasty roast pork, broccoli rabe, provolone sandwich, and other hot lunch fare. But this morning I stopped by for a croissant. Tony gets a kick out of the way I say “croissant”; he says I make it sound so French. Here Tony, Sergio, and I pose with my croissant. I can’t honestly recommend the croissant here, though when toasted and buttered it wasn’t bad, which is the case with many things. I then tried the corn muffin, which I much preferred. I like corn muffins but they’re hard to find these days, at least in New Jersey. Blueberry and chocolate are much more common. I saw a French toast muffin at the nearby grocery store. When I came to Johnny’s another morning Tony suggested I try an egg, pepper, and onion breakfast sandwich. As Sergio pushed it around the grill Tony stumped me by asking if I wanted ketchup on it. I spend too much time in France to have a quick answer to such a question. I hesitated in the same way that visiting Americans hesitate when they order a ham-and-cheese sandwich in France and are asked whether or not they want butter on it. Tony helped my indecision by recommending the ketchup. That must have done the trick because half the sandwich made for a filling breakfast and the other half made for a filling lunch. I plan to return in the coming week to try other non-croissant items on the menu (got my sights set on a rib-eye cheesesteak) and further enjoy the pleasure of hanging out with Tony and Sergio inside Johnny’s in the slow hour before the regulars start driving up for lunch. Endnote: Since West Trenton/Ewing Township, New Jersey, is right across the Delaware River from Pennsylvania (historical Washington Crossing is just upstream), where the state gas tax is higher, Pennsylvanian’s stop at this and other gas stations in the area to fill up before crossing the bridge on I-95 to go home. For my European readers, that’s like going to Andorra from France for cigarettes or from England to France for alcohol, except that you don’t have to worry about going through customs.]]> 183 2008-12-26 19:54:50 2008-12-26 19:54:50 open open my-sams-club-croissant-and-other-tastes-from-new-jersey publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last paradegrounds1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=966 Mon, 29 Dec 2008 04:37:22 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/paradegrounds1.jpg 966 2008-12-29 04:37:22 2008-12-29 04:37:22 open open paradegrounds1 inherit 35 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/paradegrounds1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata arch http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=967 Mon, 29 Dec 2008 04:39:21 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/arch.jpg 967 2008-12-29 04:39:21 2008-12-29 04:39:21 open open arch inherit 35 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/arch.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata garyassoldier http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=968 Mon, 29 Dec 2008 04:40:00 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/garyassoldier.jpg 968 2008-12-29 04:40:00 2008-12-29 04:40:00 open open garyassoldier inherit 35 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/garyassoldier.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Valley Forge, Pennsylvania and the French Alliance http://francerevisited.com/?p=969 Mon, 29 Dec 2008 04:43:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=35 Valley Forge is where the Continental Army under Comander in Chief George Washington was encamped and trained for the winter and spring of 1777-1778. It's now a National Park. Here's the National Memorial Arch, dedicated in 1917. My Uncle Gary hired me as his photographer while he toured the park to learn about the events that took place here. Here he is playing Continental soldier.  Photos by Jayme Cohen.]]> 969 2008-12-29 04:43:26 2008-12-29 04:43:26 open open valley-forge-pennsylvania-and-the-french-alliance publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last johnnys1b http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=187 Tue, 30 Dec 2008 21:15:42 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/johnnys1b.jpg 187 2008-12-30 21:15:42 2008-12-30 21:15:42 open open johnnys1b inherit 183 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/johnnys1b.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata johnnys9a http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=188 Tue, 30 Dec 2008 21:16:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/johnnys9a.jpg 188 2008-12-30 21:16:16 2008-12-30 21:16:16 open open johnnys9a inherit 183 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/johnnys9a.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata johnnys1c http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=185 Tue, 30 Dec 2008 21:16:58 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/johnnys1c.jpg 185 2008-12-30 21:16:58 2008-12-30 21:16:58 open open johnnys1c inherit 183 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/johnnys1c.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata es-self http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=41 Tue, 30 Dec 2008 23:23:05 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/es-self.jpg 41 2008-12-30 23:23:05 2008-12-30 23:23:05 open open es-self inherit 42 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/es-self.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata es-self1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=971 Tue, 30 Dec 2008 23:26:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/es-self1.jpg 971 2008-12-30 23:26:10 2008-12-30 23:26:10 open open es-self1 inherit 42 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/es-self1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata es-self2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=972 Wed, 31 Dec 2008 05:09:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/es-self2.jpg 972 2008-12-31 05:09:13 2008-12-31 05:09:13 open open es-self2 inherit 42 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/es-self2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata bessiet http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=976 Wed, 31 Dec 2008 05:17:43 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/bessiet.jpg 976 2008-12-31 05:17:43 2008-12-31 05:17:43 open open bessiet inherit 50 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/bessiet.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Bonjour from Bessie. Welcome to my blog. http://francerevisited.com/?p=980 Wed, 31 Dec 2008 05:19:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=50 I live in the 9th arrondissement in a three-story apartment, which was once a printing factory. My host mom, Pascale, is an award winning photographer and my host dad, Damien, is an independent filmmaker. Not to mention a great cook. My host sister, Mauhaut, at the age of 14, is already cooler than I am at 20. My two host brothers, Paul and Roch, are in engineering school and thus only home on the weekends. I have yet to really bond with my host siblings, but I love my host family’s art, sense of humor, and of course, cuisine. They took to me quickly as well, given that we share some of the same political views and my eagerness to try their strange delicacies (tripe, pig’s head pâté, etc.). Paris, of course, has its cons. I hate when the metro is packed at rush hours, especially when I’m in a bad mood. I miss speaking English all the time, and I dislike how expensive it is to buy coffee. However, I really like cafés and the amazing museums. I love how much the French love art and food. Since my arrival, my French has improved, I’m less intimidated by big cities, and I’m slowly learning how to read maps. I invite you to share my experiences, travels, blunders, and triumphs over the next few months as I continue to immerse myself in Parisian culture.]]> 980 2008-12-31 05:19:10 2008-12-31 05:19:10 open open bonjour-from-bessie publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last Bonjour from Emerson. Welcome to my blog. http://francerevisited.com/?p=42 Wed, 31 Dec 2008 05:19:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=42 I’m in Paris this school year on Hamilton’s study abroad program in France. What interested me much about Hamilton’s program was the emphasis on speaking French. We are encouraged to speak French constantly in order to become more fluent. Thankfully, all of my courses are in French so I do feel my French getting better on a daily basis. Our orientation program in Biarritz, a beautiful surf and resort town in southwest France, was also definitely a factor in my decision to go on Hamilton’s program. I take courses at Hamilton’s consortium center, Reid Hall, which is in cooperation with Middlebury College and Smith College. Aside from my courses at American institutions I also take courses at the Sorbonne, mainly focusing in comparative literature. I know that this academic year in Paris will have a heavy impact on the rest of my life. Considering that one semester has already gone by and I feel that I have grown as an individual, I can only look forward to the upcoming semester and whatever it may hold. Over the next few months I’ll be sharing my experiences abroad through these blogs. I hope you enjoy reading them.]]> 42 2008-12-31 05:19:44 2008-12-31 05:19:44 open open bonjour-from-emerson publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last On being the press http://francerevisited.com/?p=195 Wed, 31 Dec 2008 18:00:04 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=193 195 2008-12-31 18:00:04 2008-12-31 18:00:04 open open on-being-the-press publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock It may be January but it's still Paris http://francerevisited.com/?p=989 Wed, 07 Jan 2009 14:41:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=66 Winter sky over gray rooftop. ]]> 989 2009-01-07 14:41:13 2009-01-07 14:41:13 open open 66 publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last Will they let Emerson stay in France? http://francerevisited.com/?p=60 Wed, 07 Jan 2009 15:00:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=60 60 2009-01-07 15:00:33 2009-01-07 15:00:33 open open will-they-let-emerson-stay-in-france publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock 09-jan7iceoncanal http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=990 Wed, 07 Jan 2009 16:42:18 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan7iceoncanal.jpg 990 2009-01-07 16:42:18 2009-01-07 16:42:18 open open 09-jan7iceoncanal inherit 989 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan7iceoncanal.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 09-jan7rooftop-wintersky http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=991 Wed, 07 Jan 2009 16:43:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan7rooftop-wintersky.jpg 991 2009-01-07 16:43:28 2009-01-07 16:43:28 open open 09-jan7rooftop-wintersky inherit 989 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan7rooftop-wintersky.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 09-janiceoncanal http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=995 Thu, 08 Jan 2009 15:34:17 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-janiceoncanal1.jpg 995 2009-01-08 15:34:17 2009-01-08 15:34:17 open open 09-janiceoncanal-2 inherit 989 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-janiceoncanal1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 09-janiceoncanal http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=203 Sat, 10 Jan 2009 18:06:36 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-janiceoncanal.jpg 203 2009-01-10 18:06:36 2009-01-10 18:06:36 open open 09-janiceoncanal inherit 200 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-janiceoncanal.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 09-jan-icethickens http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=204 Sat, 10 Jan 2009 18:15:27 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan-icethickens.jpg 204 2009-01-10 18:15:27 2009-01-10 18:15:27 open open 09-jan-icethickens inherit 200 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan-icethickens.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 09-jan-icethickens1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=205 Sat, 10 Jan 2009 18:16:59 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan-icethickens1.jpg 205 2009-01-10 18:16:59 2009-01-10 18:16:59 open open 09-jan-icethickens1 inherit 200 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan-icethickens1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 09-jan-icethickens2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=208 Sat, 10 Jan 2009 18:18:57 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan-icethickens2.jpg 208 2009-01-10 18:18:57 2009-01-10 18:18:57 open open 09-jan-icethickens2 inherit 200 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan-icethickens2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 09-jan-christmasisbutamemory http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=998 Sat, 10 Jan 2009 18:24:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan-christmasisbutamemory.jpg 998 2009-01-10 18:24:28 2009-01-10 18:24:28 open open 09-jan-christmasisbutamemory inherit 74 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan-christmasisbutamemory.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Christmas is but a memory http://francerevisited.com/?p=1000 Sat, 10 Jan 2009 18:25:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=74 Canal Saint-Martin, January 10, 2009[/caption] ]]> 1000 2009-01-10 18:25:30 2009-01-10 18:25:30 open open christmas-is-but-a-memory publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last Writing without gloves http://francerevisited.com/?p=212 Sat, 10 Jan 2009 22:43:14 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=200 I just caulked the windows in my living room/office so that I don't have to type with gloves on. With gloves that sentence reads as follows: IO ujuts cqgulKEFD TQEHW qioasdddnows ioh ny sdl;aingvv toomoffaciw asto thath ia asdotnta; ahvae to aryttg wqthh fpobes pon,. Actually, I sort of like the like the "fpobes pon," at the end of that sentence, got a nice rhythm to it. Meanwhile, the ice thickens on Canal Saint-Martin, and city works don their gloves to put up a sign warning us from trying to walk on it. ]]> 212 2009-01-10 22:43:14 2009-01-10 22:43:14 open open writing-without-gloves publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 09-jan-dangerice http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=210 Sun, 11 Jan 2009 18:05:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan-dangerice.jpg 210 2009-01-11 18:05:16 2009-01-11 18:05:16 open open 09-jan-dangerice inherit 212 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/09-jan-dangerice.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Bessie and a blind date take in the view from the Pompidou http://francerevisited.com/?p=1003 Wed, 14 Jan 2009 16:17:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=78 He then whipped out Google maps of Paris and suggested potential activities for us to do. I have to admit, his organization was a little off-putting. It seemed strange that a Parisian would go to the bother of printing out a Google map. But Guillaume was nice and easy to understand. He even complimented my French, a language with which I’m still gradually becoming à l’aise. We decided to walk along the Seine, but a bit of rain got in the way. So we got coffee at a nearby café, even though he wasn’t quite satisfied by the location or how attractive he thought it was. It takes energy to carry on a conversation in French with anyone, but as time passed I was feeling better and better about my French and my social skills in general. We each paid for our own coffees and then continued our promenade along the Seine. We ended up at the Pont des Arts, right across from the Louvre, and he took me into Paris’s most beautiful and oldest public library, the Mazarine. The Mazarine is a well-kept secret, hidden inside the French Academy and reached by marble spiral staircase. It has high ceilings, beautiful wood floors and delicate chandeliers, with furnishings limited to old desks, hunter green lamps and statues of Greek philosophers… and of course old books from floor to ceiling along the walls. It was something out of Harry Potter, or Harry Potter was something out of this. Conversation lagged a bit after, and we agreed to be in touch through e-mail (at least, I think that’s what he said.). Nice guy, but definitely not the “destiny” I was promised. I have since signed up to join the library.]]> 1003 2009-01-14 16:17:28 2009-01-14 16:17:28 open open bessie-and-a-blind-date-take-in-the-view-from-the-pompidou publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last macdofr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=217 Sun, 18 Jan 2009 21:54:03 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/macdofr.jpg 217 2009-01-18 21:54:03 2009-01-18 21:54:03 open open macdofr inherit 213 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/macdofr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata McDonald's France throws Bush under the train, jumps on the Obama Express http://francerevisited.com/?p=213 Sun, 18 Jan 2009 21:56:04 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=213 The tag line reads Le goût de l’Amérique revient!, meaning “The taste of America is back!” and by extension "America is palatable again" and "It's alright to like America again." McDonald’s has always been a smart advertiser. “Happy Meal” was a stroke of genius. How can anyone refuse a kid a happy meal, no matter what’s in it? Hey, I recently paid 75 euros ($100) for a meal in Paris and I wasn’t that happy. “Le goût de l’Amérique revient” is another great McDonald’s slogan because it works on so many levels—or at least two: the one that despises and mocks America and the one that admires and envies America. In a clear reference to the change in leadership in the White House, it tells consumers both “Yeh, we hated the policies of those Bush years as much as you did” and “Hey guys, we truly are a true reflection of cheery, hopeful, multicultural America after all, so if you want to be on the right side of history you better come in for a Big Tasty.”  Big Tasty is the special inaugural burger that has been brought back for the occasion, limited time only, presumably as long as Obama’s ratings remain attractive. But the product truly doesn’t matter. The slogan’s the thing. The product is clearly secondary, otherwise the beef in the image of the Big Tasty wouldn’t resembles yesterday’s coagulated sesame chicken from an American Chinese take-out. At least that’s the impression when seen in a large-format metro ad. But maybe the grotesque nature of the Big Tasty image is actually McDonald’s France’s up-yours to the left-wing, anti-American, slow-food intelligentsia, a kind of “Come on, you know you want it, it’s American, you just put on your high French airs and say you don’t, but admit it, you love all this American stuff, its the kind of food that people who voted for Obama eat!” And while the U.S. government hiked the tariff on Roquefort so as to make caviar cheaper to import then the famous French blue cheese, McDonald’s threw two layers of European-made American cheese onto its Big Tasty as an added twist of the knife. On the other hand, maybe it actually does taste like yesterday’s coagulated sesame chicken. Nevertheless, it’s a brilliant slogan.]]> 213 2009-01-18 21:56:04 2009-01-18 21:56:04 open open mcdonalds-france-embraces-obama-flips-the-bird-at-bush publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last macdofr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=225 Sun, 18 Jan 2009 22:23:48 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/macdofr2.jpg 225 2009-01-18 22:23:48 2009-01-18 22:23:48 open open macdofr2 inherit 213 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/macdofr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata christmasfamilyfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1004 Thu, 22 Jan 2009 14:00:51 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/christmasfamilyfr.jpg 1004 2009-01-22 14:00:51 2009-01-22 14:00:51 open open christmasfamilyfr inherit 81 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/christmasfamilyfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Emerson and the point of no return http://francerevisited.com/?p=1008 Thu, 22 Jan 2009 14:03:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=81 For the next two weeks I had numerous reunions with family and friends, reconnecting and revitalizing our relationships. Two of my best friends, Nate and Will, from Hamilton College came and stayed with me for New Year’s and joined the festivities, along with my friend Jenn from high school. New Year’s Eve was a night full of family and friends dancing the night away to a medley of songs ranging from 80’s pop to latin raggaeton to salsa, accompanied by their respective dances. My friends felt right at home as they incited dance-offs and gyrated their way into the hearts of my family. There’s no better way to spend New Year’s Eve than drenched in sweat from all the twists, turns, and fancy footwork. My friends are family to me and it blew my mind how my worlds had seamlessly come together in celebration. Once my friends had packed up and made their ways back home I was left to spend the last few days with my family. Every moment spent together, as idealistic as it sounds, was simply perfect. What meant most to me was the night before I was due to return to Paris as my family and I sat and went through photo albums. Hundreds of pictures of a bare-bottomed baby version of myself, of my brother in his Christening suit (wobbly legs and all) and of my Mom and Dad walking down the aisle, as well as of other precious moments. I only wish someone had taken a picture of us as we looked over the pictures. It wasn’t until the day I was to leave that I decided to pack, which meant running to the pharmacy to get essential toiletries and rummaging through my wardrobe to pack for five more months in Paris. Once at the airport with boarding pass in hand I sat down beside my family and talked as if nothing was going to change, only progress. We sat together and exchanged smiles and words as everyone was realizing that we were all, not just me, but all of us, getting older. My brother, Kevin, is in high school; my parents grow closer by the day as they share their lives for over twenty years now, and I’m not just a student at Hamilton anymore but also someone living overseas in another step for me towards adulthood. Once at the point of no return—before going through security—we all exchanged hugs and kisses, and as I was preparing to depart I gave my parents a letter. In this letter I expressed to them my gratitude and eternal love. I also made sure that it would not be opened until we had parted ways. In the terminal I found it difficult to comprehend that I was not going to see my family for another five months. I must admit it was harder for me to leave home this time. In a way, I wanted to stay. At the same time, I was also ready to leave and come back to my life in Paris. Aside from the two suitcases, I bring back with me the trust and sense of responsibility to continue to live my life here in Paris in every way possible. This is what my family and friends alike have given me. As I boarded the plane I received a teary call from my mother as she read the letter.]]> 1008 2009-01-22 14:03:26 2009-01-22 14:03:26 open open emerson-and-the-point-of-no-return publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last viewfrompompidoufr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1013 Sat, 24 Jan 2009 20:36:56 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/viewfrompompidoufr.jpg 1013 2009-01-24 20:36:56 2009-01-24 20:36:56 open open viewfrompompidoufr inherit 1003 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/viewfrompompidoufr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata thiniceglkdapresmonet http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=229 Sun, 25 Jan 2009 00:19:21 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/thiniceglkdapresmonet.jpg 229 2009-01-25 00:19:21 2009-01-25 00:19:21 open open thiniceglkdapresmonet inherit 230 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/thiniceglkdapresmonet.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata thiniceglkdapresmonet1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=231 Sun, 25 Jan 2009 00:22:07 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/thiniceglkdapresmonet1.jpg 231 2009-01-25 00:22:07 2009-01-25 00:22:07 open open thiniceglkdapresmonet1 inherit 230 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/thiniceglkdapresmonet1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata thiniceglkdapresmonet2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=232 Sun, 25 Jan 2009 00:24:04 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/thiniceglkdapresmonet2.jpg 232 2009-01-25 00:24:04 2009-01-25 00:24:04 open open thiniceglkdapresmonet2 inherit 230 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/thiniceglkdapresmonet2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Thin Ice, d'après Monet http://francerevisited.com/?p=230 Sun, 25 Jan 2009 00:28:11 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=230
[caption id="attachment_232" align="alignnone" width="461" caption="Thin Ice, after Monet. Photo GLK."]Thin Ice, after Monet. GLK.[/caption]
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230 2009-01-25 00:28:11 2009-01-25 00:28:11 open open thin-ice-dapres-monet publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 2 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=742 67.18.19.226 2010-01-10 15:52:21 2010-01-10 15:52:21 1 pingback 0 0
On completion of France Revisited's Franco-Philly Issue and the inauguration of this magazine http://francerevisited.com/?p=252 Thu, 29 Jan 2009 17:43:14 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=238 The Hundred-Foot Journey, the first novel by Richard C. Morais, a Philadelphia resident a senior editor at Forbes, about an Indian from Mumbai who grows up to become one of France's most stellar chefs in Paris; despite its Forbesian pride and Ratatouille-like characterization, foodies will find an awful lot of cusine to savor there. I wish I'd found a reason to mention Thomas Keels' well-researched book Forgotten Philadelphia. I wish I'd found a way to how write more about Peter Hiler and his great used bookstore The Book Trader other than the fact that there's an Eiffel Tower on the counter. Peter is one of those unabashed, unassociated, understated Francophiles you come across every now and then who doesn't need to tell you all he knows about French literature and French art because knowing it is enough. Our paths first met I met in the American Express line in Paris 25 years ago. There's a good story there. But it's better that I don't start writing about all that. You see, wanting to know more about people and place and enjoying myself in the process is what got me here in the first place when I decided to go to france for two or three monts... 20 years ago. No, I'd better just call this issue finished and this magazine launched, then get on with it.]]> 252 2009-01-29 17:43:14 2009-01-29 17:43:14 open open on-completion-of-france-revisiteds-franco-philly-issue-and-the-inauguration-of-this-magazine publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock 3 lynnm3@comcast.net 76.124.165.138 2009-01-29 19:28:22 2009-01-29 19:28:22 1 0 0 Bessie's least favorite letter http://francerevisited.com/?p=1019 Tue, 03 Feb 2009 23:25:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=95 1019 2009-02-03 23:25:37 2009-02-03 23:25:37 open open bessies-least-favorite-letter publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock vendee1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=256 Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:08:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/vendee1.jpg 256 2009-02-06 12:08:16 2009-02-06 12:08:16 open open vendee1 inherit 255 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/vendee1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata vendee2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=257 Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:10:23 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/vendee2.jpg 257 2009-02-06 12:10:23 2009-02-06 12:10:23 open open vendee2 inherit 255 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/vendee2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata vendee3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=258 Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:12:12 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/vendee3.jpg 258 2009-02-06 12:12:12 2009-02-06 12:12:12 open open vendee3 inherit 255 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/vendee3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata vendee4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=259 Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:14:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/vendee4.jpg 259 2009-02-06 12:14:16 2009-02-06 12:14:16 open open vendee4 inherit 255 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/vendee4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Natural expedition in Vendée or Still life with children http://francerevisited.com/?p=255 Fri, 06 Feb 2009 12:23:57 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=255 Sand during falling tide, beach in Vendée. Photo GLK[/caption] I then walked along the dune: [caption id="attachment_257" align="alignnone" width="432" caption="Over the dune, Vendée. Photo GLK"]Over the dune, Vendée. Photo GLK[/caption] The sky changed as I then drove inland. When I think of Vendée, at least southern Vendée where my friends live, I think of this flat, damp landscape. [caption id="attachment_258" align="alignnone" width="432" caption="The flatlands of Vendée. Photo GLK"]The flatlands of Vendée. Photo GLK[/caption] Near the end of the afternoon I was driving back to my friends' village when I stopped to admire this path: [caption id="attachment_259" align="alignnone" width="432" caption="Path between yellow trees, Vendée, Feb. 09. Photo GLK"]Path between yellow trees, Vendée, Feb. 09. Photo GLK[/caption] By the time I returned, the 2-year-old was awake and tearing apart the dress of the doll I'd given her, the 4-year-old was sucking two fingers while watching "Les Simpson," and the 6-year-old wanted to show me something she'd written. It went something like this: ANDndeMmleNdrEaAeasssdNrea. Her name is Andréa.]]> 255 2009-02-06 12:23:57 2009-02-06 12:23:57 open open natural-expedition-in-vendee-still-life-with-children publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last nice2009fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1020 Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:18:54 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/nice2009fr.jpg 1020 2009-02-12 18:18:54 2009-02-12 18:18:54 open open nice2009fr inherit 100 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/nice2009fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Feeling the pulse of Nice as the stage gets set for France's largest Carnival http://francerevisited.com/?p=1023 Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:20:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=100 Setting up for the festivities. Photo S. Sommers.[/caption] The Tourist Office was the first to decorate, putting a giant colorful lizard head up on the roof, and I’ve been told that there’s much more to come in the form of giant murals and other visual shows.   Nice’s Carnival, France’s largest, has been around for 125 years. Among the major events are the Flower Parades, which will take place the next two Saturdays and Wednesdays. Carnival runs for two weeks, with some sort of festivity every day. This year’s theme is “King of Masquerades” and will be staged in a parade with 20 monumental floats, accompanied by over 200 big ‘heads’ much like the above-mentioned lizard. The school where I’m studying French is hosting a socca party at a local restaurant on Friday afternoon to commemorate the first day. Socca is a Nice specialty, a crepe made of chickpeas, delicious with a glass of rosé. Then at 9pm the King “arrives” and the festivities begin. I can’t wait. Stay tuned to this blog for more. The party’s just getting started!]]> 1023 2009-02-12 18:20:53 2009-02-12 18:20:53 open open stephanie-sommers-feels-the-pulse-of-nice-as-the-stage-gets-set-for-frances-largest-carnival publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 13 blenderprincess@yahoo.com 90.14.10.151 2009-02-15 07:59:51 2009-02-15 07:59:51 1 0 0 14 slsommers@wanadoo.fr 84.37.33.226 2009-02-15 15:36:07 2009-02-15 15:36:07 1 0 0 15 slsommers@wanadoo.fr 84.37.33.226 2009-02-17 19:35:02 2009-02-17 19:35:02 1 0 0 16 lioness11@bluewin.ch 62.2.254.100 2009-02-22 17:55:51 2009-02-22 17:55:51 1 0 0 17 nelly@seglias.ch 81.41.224.240 2009-02-23 20:50:24 2009-02-23 20:50:24 1 0 0 18 slsommers@wanadoo.fr 84.37.33.226 2009-02-24 15:17:54 2009-02-24 15:17:54 1 0 0 kingarrives13-02-09fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1033 Sat, 14 Feb 2009 21:59:02 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/kingarrives13-02-09fr.jpg 1033 2009-02-14 21:59:02 2009-02-14 21:59:02 open open kingarrives13-02-09fr inherit 110 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/kingarrives13-02-09fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata The King arrives http://francerevisited.com/?p=1035 Sat, 14 Feb 2009 21:59:46 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=110 The King arrives. Photo: SS.[/caption] Quite a few of the revelers were masked. I asked one of them why and they said that this year the theme, The King of Masquerades, was an invitation to hide your identity and become someone else. This made it impossible to resist dancing and frolicking in the streets with perfect strangers. My friends and I made the most of it. Then suddenly we all realized that the King and Queen were bearing down on us, and we were in a panic as we all tried to make way for the giant floats to pass. As they passed by, you could see that there were masked people in costume inside the floats, waving and throwing confetti and spraying the crowds with Silly String. At first I wondered where all the Silly String was coming from but after the parade I saw a few street vendors still hawking the stuff. I am still picking bits of it off my clothes this morning. [caption id="attachment_119" align="alignnone" width="288" caption="Silly String. Photo SS."]Silly String. Photo SS.[/caption] Trailing after the floats were various semi-organized groups in costumes, including a gaggle of children and some acrobats who danced in the streets. The whole experience reminded me of an exotic New Years Eve in Times Square, and for a few hours strangers from all over danced, laughed, and sprayed each other with Silly String. It was fantastic. This afternoon, Saturday, the festivities continue with the Flower Parade along the Promenade des Anglais. My friends and I have bought tickets for the stands in order to get a good view – there will be various flower parades throughout the next few weeks but I have heard that the first one is the best. Until then...]]> 1035 2009-02-14 21:59:46 2009-02-14 21:59:46 open open stephanie-witnesses-the-kings-arrival publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last frsillystring13-02 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1040 Sun, 15 Feb 2009 12:30:58 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frsillystring13-02.jpg 1040 2009-02-15 12:30:58 2009-02-15 12:30:58 open open frsillystring13-02 inherit 1035 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frsillystring13-02.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata frbataille-des-fleurs http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1044 Mon, 16 Feb 2009 13:04:58 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frbataille-des-fleurs.jpg 1044 2009-02-16 13:04:58 2009-02-16 13:04:58 open open frbataille-des-fleurs inherit 121 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frbataille-des-fleurs.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata frbataille-des-fleurs1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1047 Mon, 16 Feb 2009 13:09:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frbataille-des-fleurs1.jpg 1047 2009-02-16 13:09:30 2009-02-16 13:09:30 open open frbataille-des-fleurs1 inherit 121 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frbataille-des-fleurs1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata frbataille-des-fleurs2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1048 Mon, 16 Feb 2009 13:11:08 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frbataille-des-fleurs2.jpg 1048 2009-02-16 13:11:08 2009-02-16 13:11:08 open open frbataille-des-fleurs2 inherit 121 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frbataille-des-fleurs2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata La Bataille des Fleurs http://francerevisited.com/?p=1051 Mon, 16 Feb 2009 13:18:03 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=121
[caption id="attachment_133" align="alignleft" width="396" caption="The guy bottom left is gathering arms for the battle. Photos: SS."]The guy bottom left is gathering arms for the battle. Photos: SS.[/caption]
Then the first float drenched in flowers arrived. It moved slowly. I noticed there was someone just walking alongside the float with a cartful of flowers. The walker then started throwing flowers into the stands. This caused a roar from the crowd, and suddenly everyone was lunging forward trying to catch flowers. Fights erupted between the men who were suposedly trying to catch the flowers in order to give them to their significant others. It was utter chaos. The formerly placid old men surrounding me who didn’t look like they could move unless assisted were jumping up like grasshoppers, sometimes knocking over their loved ones in the process. Several times a few aggressive younger men very nearly came to fisticuffs and their women gave each other the evil eye all in order to catch a flower or two.
This process went on throughout the parade. It was evident that this was a time-worn tradition as the women knew how to duck and weave whenever the flowers were thrown. A few were unlucky and knocked off their chairs but they just got themselves back up—in a very dignified manner, I might add. I myself was nearly knocked over a few times, but I managed to catch a few flowers, although the old ladies, seeing that I was manless, just sniffed and turned their backs on me.
The parade was fantastic—it’s hard even now to describe all of the various floats and costumes that passed by in the two-plus hours, and it’s even harder to choose from all of the wonderful photos I took, but I think the real event was the battle. As the parade was coming around a second time I noticed that they were now taking flowers from the floats themselves and throwing them at the crowds. The competition was getting fiercer. Slightly shaken, I decided to scurry out of there lest some loved-up senior decided to arm wrestle me for my armful of flowers. I’m glad I did. I still smell their scent as I write this. My next blog will be the Corso Illuminé which is another parade held in the evening and I plan on filling you in on some Carnival trivia that Gary has handily sent me from Paris. Apparently the first Carnaval de Nice was held in 1294. I wonder if even back then the men were battling for flowers to impress their women; maybe that’s how French men have such a reputation for being romantic. I’d love to hear your thoughts on the matter, Dear Readers.]]>
1051 2009-02-16 13:18:03 2009-02-16 13:18:03 open open la-bataille-des-fleurs publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last
frbataille-des-fleurs3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1054 Tue, 17 Feb 2009 12:19:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frbataille-des-fleurs3.jpg 1054 2009-02-17 12:19:37 2009-02-17 12:19:37 open open frbataille-des-fleurs3 inherit 1051 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frbataille-des-fleurs3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata frbataille-des-fleurs4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1055 Tue, 17 Feb 2009 12:20:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frbataille-des-fleurs4.jpg 1055 2009-02-17 12:20:49 2009-02-17 12:20:49 open open frbataille-des-fleurs4 inherit 1051 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frbataille-des-fleurs4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata toiletparigofr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=266 Wed, 18 Feb 2009 01:02:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/toiletparigofr.jpg 266 2009-02-18 01:02:37 2009-02-18 01:02:37 open open toiletparigofr inherit 265 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/toiletparigofr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Writing in cafés http://francerevisited.com/?p=265 Wed, 18 Feb 2009 01:12:58 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=265 Entrance to les toilettes at Les Parigots.[/caption] Nevertheless, if I were to write in a café it would be a place like Les Parigots, a bistro/bar/café just off Place de la République. (Parigot is slang for Parisian.) There’s a back area with books on shelves that’s fairly calm but with enough distraction to remind a writer that he or she isn’t at home. The writer would also be well placed to watch food coming from the kitchen and clients going into the rest room, which could be just the spark needed to further some important work. Here’s a picture of the door to the toilettes at Les Parigots. I took this picture as an inside joke (inside France Revisited, that is) referring to my article about French cuisine in Philadelphia. In that article I take Olivier Desaintmartin, the owner of Zinc, to task for spelling toilette like a Belgian. I wonder if he ever got the new French sign he promised? I imagined this blog entry there while watching the waitress pick up two plates of hamburger-and-fries from the kitchen ledge, but I wrote it at home. Les Parigots. 5 rue Château d’Eau, 10th arrondissement. 100 yards north of Place de la République, Metro République. Tel. 01 42 00 22 26.]]> 265 2009-02-18 01:12:58 2009-02-18 01:12:58 open open writing-in-cafes publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 4 CassidyL@aol.com 84.7.198.76 2009-02-18 13:38:53 2009-02-18 13:38:53 1 0 0 frillumine_harlequin http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1057 Wed, 18 Feb 2009 23:26:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frillumine_harlequin.jpg 1057 2009-02-18 23:26:37 2009-02-18 23:26:37 open open frillumine_harlequin inherit 137 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frillumine_harlequin.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata frillumine_confetti http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1058 Wed, 18 Feb 2009 23:27:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frillumine_confetti.jpg 1058 2009-02-18 23:27:16 2009-02-18 23:27:16 open open frillumine_confetti inherit 137 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/frillumine_confetti.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Corso illuminé http://francerevisited.com/?p=1062 Wed, 18 Feb 2009 23:29:42 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=137 Okay, here goes: the Corso Illuminé is the night parade that circles two times around Place Massena on Tuesday and Saturday nights. I’ve been to two corsos, or corsi, now and they are rather spectacular. There are enormous harlequins and huge floating caricatures of what would have entertained royalty back in the day, a rather fierce dragon (my personal favorite), and various groups of people from various countries who entertain us in between the grotesque processions with acrobatic dances, drum-playing or baton-twirling. All of these slowly pass by as the crowd heaves to and fro, filling in the spaces between each float. It is really interesting to see the spectators get up close and personal with the floats, and armed with cans of Silly String (my teacher told me the French call aerosol string cans “les boums,” like bombs) and confetti, they spray the h*** out of the floats, the groups, and each other until literally everybody and everything is covered in string and confetti. Those of us who have chosen not to buy les boums and confetti are frequently targeted with stealth attacks from behind. It’s as if the boumeurs (think bombers) are saying, “Hey, you there, blocking my view and my chance to spray a float, this one’s for you!”   According to my teacher, Jean-Philip, this is actually much better than the alternative that was employed not so long ago. Years ago (I’m guessing pre-aerosol string days) they threw little plastic balls a bit bigger than bb pellets and which weighed a bit more than bb pellets (I’m guessing) as there were always a few eyes put out and, according to Jean-Philip, a couple of near deaths. As Carnival became increasingly popular with tourists from other countries they finally banned the pellets and switched to paper confetti and the infamous boums. Enough ranting; I will now move on to the promised carnival trivia. As this year’s theme is King of Masquerades, it is fitting that I mention that the Nice Carnival was mentioned various times in the journals of royal patrons during the Middle Ages. It appears to have been particularly popular with dukes from France and Italy, and in 1889 the Prince of Wales (future Edouard Vll) came to light the procession stake to commence Carnival. My favorite float, the dragon, is called a “babau” and first appeared as a float in 1882 to honor the tradition of grotesque mythology that is prevalent in most Carnival history. Here is where mythology and Catholicism meld together. Winter carnivals are now thought to be a celebration of the advent of Lent, which is why Mardi Gras (literally “Fat Tuesday”) commemorates the end of the Carnival period and incorporates a huge feast, to get ready for eating meagerly (specifically no meat) for the next 40 days. That is if you were a Catholic in the Middle Ages. Nowadays my Catholic friends usually resolve to give something up like sugar in their coffee or white wine. (Notice I didn’t say all wines.) Another interesting fact; apparently all manner of wild behavior and voluntary madness was allowed during this Carnival period as you would pay penance during Lent. Perhaps this explains the folly of Silly String.]]> 1062 2009-02-18 23:29:42 2009-02-18 23:29:42 open open corso-illumine publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 19 lioness11@bluewin.ch 62.2.254.100 2009-02-22 18:07:38 2009-02-22 18:07:38 1 0 0 20 slsommers@wanadoo.fr 84.37.33.226 2009-02-24 15:04:19 2009-02-24 15:04:19 1 0 0 Street food in Nice--the socca party http://francerevisited.com/?p=1063 Mon, 23 Feb 2009 11:35:50 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=141 Socca[/caption] The socca in “Vieux Nice,” the old part of town, is served alongside other Niçois specialties such as pissaladiere (caramelized onion pizza sometimes with bits of anchovy and black olives), pan bagnat (little buns brushed with olive oil, then filled with green pepper slices, black olives, onion slices, anchovies, tomato slices and hard-boiled egg slices -- all drizzled with vinaigrette), Niçois farcis (vegetables like zucchini, peppers and onions cut into bite size pieces and topped or stuffed with delicious fillings made of meat or fish or other vegetables), and beignets (shrimp or meat fillings dunked in a thick batter and deep fried). All of these are finger foods—although your fingers tend to get very greasy—and families, couples, and friends gather together at brunch time to sit at the picnic tables outside, eat some Niçois street food, and wash it all down with a glass of rosé. Yum! So as I had a fabulous weekend (which also meant that once again I didn’t study enough) I am skipping writing about the Lemon Festival for the moment in order to pay homage to simple Niçois street food. I will pick up the Citron in a few days, but I leave you with this tasty preview: it’s all about lemons and oranges and a tasty little pie called the tarte au citron, a very French lemon meringue pie... Oh no. I’ve made myself hungry again. That's why, while I may not be fat, I will never be skinny.]]> 1063 2009-02-23 11:35:50 2009-02-23 11:35:50 open open street-food-in-nice-the-socca-party publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last socca http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1065 Tue, 24 Feb 2009 11:37:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/socca.jpg 1065 2009-02-24 11:37:47 2009-02-24 11:37:47 open open socca inherit 1063 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/socca.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata menton_fete-citron_01-gseglias http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1071 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 21:40:07 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/menton_fete-citron_01-gseglias.jpg 1071 2009-02-26 21:40:07 2009-02-26 21:40:07 open open menton_fete-citron_01-gseglias inherit 148 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/menton_fete-citron_01-gseglias.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata mentonclownme-gabriela-seglias http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1072 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 21:41:39 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/mentonclownme-gabriela-seglias.jpg 1072 2009-02-26 21:41:39 2009-02-26 21:41:39 open open mentonclownme-gabriela-seglias inherit 148 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/mentonclownme-gabriela-seglias.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata menton_fete-citron_01-gseglias1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1073 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 21:44:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/menton_fete-citron_01-gseglias1.jpg 1073 2009-02-26 21:44:53 2009-02-26 21:44:53 open open menton_fete-citron_01-gseglias1 inherit 148 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/menton_fete-citron_01-gseglias1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata mentoncountryhouse-gseglias http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1075 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 21:46:51 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/mentoncountryhouse-gseglias.jpg 1075 2009-02-26 21:46:51 2009-02-26 21:46:51 open open mentoncountryhouse-gseglias inherit 148 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/mentoncountryhouse-gseglias.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Why I like Menton... and limoncello http://francerevisited.com/?p=1078 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 21:54:08 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=148 Welcome to the Menton Lemon Festival. Photo Gabriela Seglias[/caption] I spent an afternoon checking out Menton last week, and what strikes me as most special about the town is that although it’s on the coast and therefore should be loaded with tourists and little old ladies with tiny dogs, it isn’t, so you can walk through the pedestrian area without having to watch your step. Menton isn’t quaint per se, but it has an elegant feel that is sometimes lacking in Nice. It is one of the few towns in France where the population is actually getting younger, and it also has a clean feel to the downtown area.
Another thing I like about Menton is its restaurants, at least the ones I’ve tried so far. They are rarely overpriced and I have yet to have a bad meal there, unlike in Nice, which is nearly always overpriced (even my teachers complain about this) and the food and service in Nice can be a bit hit-or-miss.
[caption id="attachment_152" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Country house made of citrus fruit. Photo G. Seglias"]Country house made of citrus fruit. Photo Gabriela Seglias[/caption]  This year is the 76th Lemon Festival. It runs about three weeks and ends on March 4. The theme this year is “Menton celebrates the Music of the World.” And indeed the night we went everything from African tribal to American country music was being played in different venues in the gardens. My friends and I were delighted; a town that actually encourages music and dancing is a town that we can love.  You should know that my army of friends marches on its stomach and that my friend Gabriela in particular can’t pass a tarte au citron (lemon meringue pie) without wanting a taste. We stopped at an Italian restaurant across the street from the beach and promenade. This restaurant, called La Tagliatelle, was absolutely fantastic and came complete with two huge Italian waiters. They’re brothers and they look like Mama breast-fed them pasta from the day they were born. Jolly as they were it was the clientele who spoke volumes: La Tagliatelle must be a badly kept secret amongst the Italians as I heard no French, only Italian spoken at all the tables. (Remember, Italy is only a few miles away.) We each had a different pasta and left nothing behind. The tarte au citron was fabulous, but fellow student Andre and I went for Le Colonel, a lemon sorbet topped with lemon vodka topped with a tiny bit of whipped cream. Did I mention that this is why I will never be skinny? [caption id="attachment_150" align="alignright" width="177" caption="Stephanie dancing with a clown. Photo G. Seglias"]Stephanie dancing with a clown. Photo Gabriela Seglias[/caption] With renewed energy we attacked the night garden event, and five minutes later a big stuffed clown thing (see the picture—your guess is as good as mine) was flirting and dancing with me. “Vous êtes mechant, vous. Arrete!” I said, shaking my finger at him when he tried to touch my bum while we were dancing. Only in France. Swiftly moving on, we came upon a quite good mariachi band which had us shaking our booties once more. Through the evening we visited (more like frolicked) amongst several other musical venues: country, disco, tango, rock-‘n-roll, etc. The venues themselves were each shaped a bit differently—there was a house, a chateau, a boat, a car, even a ‘moulin rouge’—but they were all composed of lemons and oranges! I must ask the tourist office later this week just how many citrus fruits are actually used in the fabrication of this tiny village-cum-garden. Open for dégustation throughout were small stands selling some of the best limoncello (sweet digestive liqueur made of lemons) I have ever tasted, and at the far end of the gardens Grand Marnier (makers of the superb orange liqueur) had set up a creperie that was serving warm Grand Marnier and coffee. By this time it was late and we were tired, so we all had a glass of Grand Marnier, tipped it in admiration to the magical music village, and caught the last train back to Nice.]]>
1078 2009-02-26 21:54:08 2009-02-26 21:54:08 open open stephanie-explains-why-she-likes-menton-and-limoncello publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 21 carlijn_melis@hotmail.com 90.52.240.88 2009-02-27 20:10:48 2009-02-27 20:10:48 1 0 0 22 nelly@seglias.ch 81.41.224.141 2009-03-01 16:46:32 2009-03-01 16:46:32 1 0 0
Zinc_toilettes http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=272 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 22:06:17 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/oliviertoilettes.jpg 272 2009-02-26 22:06:17 2009-02-26 22:06:17 open open oliviertoilettes inherit 264 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/oliviertoilettes.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Toilet/Toilettes http://francerevisited.com/?p=264 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 22:08:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=264 Well, I've finally gotten word from one of my culinary spies in Philadelphia that Olivier Desaintmartin, owner of Caribou Cafe and Zinc, has finally corrected the spelling of the sign to the rest room at Zinc. It now reads Toilettes, as one would expect in a French restaurant owned by a Frenchman. Actually, the spy in question is Olivier himself. Just goes to show the importance of investigative journalism in the fight for freedom, justice, and correct spelling. If France Revisited can get a man 3000 miles away to add an "s" to his toilette, just imagine the possibilities! (Admittedly, Olivier might have done it anyway, but he can go get his own blog.) Now that this disturbing toilettes issue is out of the way I look forward, as a citizen, to revisiting Zinc on my next trip to Philadelphia in the spring. And as a member of the media I look foward to moving onto other important issues that affect us all.]]> 264 2009-02-26 22:08:30 2009-02-26 22:08:30 open open toilettoilettes publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last Riding the post-lemon train from Menton http://francerevisited.com/?p=1081 Sun, 01 Mar 2009 13:49:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=158 The parade itself was a bit disappointing as it mainly consisted of the various village settings made of oranges and lemons that I reported on earlier. Or maybe it was a bit disappointing because we had been going to the far more spectacular night parades in Nice where the crowds were enormous and more international and showing more enthusiasm in the streets, with people always dancing and having fun. The crowds in Menton were mainly French. At this point I must make an observation about the French; they are lovely people but at musical events they just don’t dance or express themselves like the English, Americans, Germans, Swiss, Dutch, etc. I once went to a Status Quo rock concert in Marseille and NOBODY got out of their seats until the last song. (Except us.) How anyone can sit through Status Quo’s rocking tune, “Whatever You Want” without even moving their heads is beyond me.   Most of the people in the crowds were elderly as well, and the rest appeared to be parents with small children. I recall a remark by my teacher Jean-Philip about Menton, that the population was mostly retirees and that he hadn’t visited Menton in a while because there was nothing of great interest to do there. I understand his point but I still hold to my opinion that Menton is quite elegant and easily manageable for the tourist who wants a French seaside town flavor without all of the excessive tourist trappings. There are benefits to attending a smaller parade like Menton’s: when it slows down, you can walk right in between the various acts to take pictures. To illustrate this point I present a photo taken in the middle of the parade. I also had my friend Gaby take one of me and a flower boy while the parade was stopped. And since the theme was “Music from Around the World,” we were treated to different tunes throughout the parade, of which my favorite was the country and western band—it reminded me of my home state of Texas. Oh and I must mention that the amount of Silly String was probably less than 10% of that used during the Nice parades. The fireworks were rather special, particularly as they illuminated the sea, and well, who doesn’t love fireworks? The whole event, while sedate compared to the Nice Carnival, was nicely presented. We all headed for the train station, satisfied with our meal and the festivities. Here’s a little rant about France’s lack of services for public transport, particularly during special events like the festival. There are no buses leaving Menton after 8 pm, so everyone must take a train to get home if they don’t live in Menton. The majority of people seemed to be headed east, as we were, in the direction of Nice and Cannes. Add the fact that SNCF cancelled the two trains before the last one heading east, which was also delayed for over an hour, and you have a recipe for disaster. The chaos that ensued was palpable. The fireworks ended around 10 pm but at nearly midnight there were still hundreds of people waiting for a train. The police were already there in advance, waiting to quell any possible riots and to keep people from being pushed off the platforms. I was with a bunch of Swiss friends who complained about the lack of services and how in Switzerland this would never happen. I have to agree; the timing was pretty bad and in many countries, including the US, there are usually special buses and trains added to the schedules whenever there is a special event like a festival. But not France. Why not France? I would really love an explanation to this phenomenon. Anyway, the train finally arrived and for about 10 minutes we couldn’t even breathe, let alone move as the crowds pushed forward to the doors. Most of those in the crowd were senior citizens who moved ever so slowly onto the train, which delayed us getting on and prolonging the feeling of being crushed. I worried that some elderly person would have a heart attack and still end up on the train as we were slowly ‘carried’ to the doors. It was a nightmare that really only ended when we arrived in Nice, at which point I vowed to never again stay out past 8 pm outside of Nice.]]> 1081 2009-03-01 13:49:53 2009-03-01 13:49:53 open open riding-the-post-lemon-train-from-menton publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last menton_parade-fireworks-036 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1082 Mon, 02 Mar 2009 13:46:27 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/menton_parade-fireworks-036.jpg 1082 2009-03-02 13:46:27 2009-03-02 13:46:27 open open menton_parade-fireworks-036 inherit 0 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/menton_parade-fireworks-036.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_temp_parent _wp_attachment_metadata menton_parade-fireworks-0361 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1084 Mon, 02 Mar 2009 13:50:29 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/menton_parade-fireworks-0361.jpg 1084 2009-03-02 13:50:29 2009-03-02 13:50:29 open open menton_parade-fireworks-0361 inherit 1081 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/menton_parade-fireworks-0361.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata menton_parade-me-and-flower http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1085 Mon, 02 Mar 2009 13:50:56 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/menton_parade-me-and-flower.jpg 1085 2009-03-02 13:50:56 2009-03-02 13:50:56 open open menton_parade-me-and-flower inherit 1081 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/menton_parade-me-and-flower.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata menton_parade-fireworks-045 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1086 Mon, 02 Mar 2009 13:51:27 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/menton_parade-fireworks-045.jpg 1086 2009-03-02 13:51:27 2009-03-02 13:51:27 open open menton_parade-fireworks-045 inherit 1081 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/menton_parade-fireworks-045.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata nice-carnival_fin_3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1090 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 12:24:06 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_3.jpg 1090 2009-03-07 12:24:06 2009-03-07 12:24:06 open open nice-carnival_fin_3 inherit 164 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata nice-carnival_fin_2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1091 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 12:25:01 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_2.jpg 1091 2009-03-07 12:25:01 2009-03-07 12:25:01 open open nice-carnival_fin_2 inherit 164 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata nice-carnival_fin_1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1092 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 12:26:04 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_1.jpg 1092 2009-03-07 12:26:04 2009-03-07 12:26:04 open open nice-carnival_fin_1 inherit 164 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata nice-carnival_fin_11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1093 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 12:27:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_11.jpg 1093 2009-03-07 12:27:10 2009-03-07 12:27:10 open open nice-carnival_fin_11 inherit 164 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata nice-carnival_fin_21 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1096 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 12:29:58 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_21.jpg 1096 2009-03-07 12:29:58 2009-03-07 12:29:58 open open nice-carnival_fin_21 inherit 164 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_21.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata nice-carnival_fin_12 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1097 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 12:30:36 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_12.jpg 1097 2009-03-07 12:30:36 2009-03-07 12:30:36 open open nice-carnival_fin_12 inherit 164 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_12.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata The burning of the King and the end of Carnival http://francerevisited.com/?p=1099 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 12:30:52 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=164 When the King started to move, the crowd roared bloodthirstily and followed the King down to the sea. My friends and I raced ahead to the Promenade des Anglais to take pictures of the procession, and I got a good shot of the King as it turned the corner. Afterwards we realized that the crowds at the beach were so immense we would never be able to see the King out at sea. This is where my official Carnival press badge truly came in handy. (Thank you Gary, for arranging that!) I found the most official-looking person in the crowds, flashed my badge and asked where the ‘press area’ was. We soon found ourselves in a private viewing area on the Promenade des Anglais, directly in front of the boats out at sea that were set up for the burning and the fireworks afterwards. But the King was already out there! How was that possible when we had just left him at the corner? This is when I found out that they don’t actually burn the massive grotesque King we had all seen in the parades, but in instead an effigy made of paper maché. Considering that the real King is made mostly of hard plastic this actually makes sense. As we waited, the crowds behind us grew more bloodthirsty and you could hear chants of “Brulé!” (Burn!) Suddenly the announcement came and there was a brief pause in the yelling and screaming as they lit the King on fire. As the fire took, the revelers found their voices again and they roared through the 5-6 minutes it took to burn the effigy. As the fire died down, so did the voices, save for one child’s voice who yelled out one last comment: “Au revoir, Sarkozy!” We all laughed. It is pretty evident, the longer I stay here, what most of the French think of Sarkozy at the moment. Personally I don’t think he’s that bad but the French president’s popularity certainly seems to be at a low point here in Nice. “Sa femme si belle”—his pretty wife, however, is all right, said the security guard sitting next to me. Immediately after the King’s burning the fireworks began, and it was evident where a good portion of the Carnival budget was; these were ten times more spectacular than the Menton fireworks. Four boats out at sea shot off fireworks in tune to approximately ten different songs as we watched from our advantageous position. (Thanks again, Gary and the Nice Office de Tourisme!) The fireworks seemed to go on forever. Then all of a sudden it was over, and as my friends and I waded our way through the Silly String-and-confetti-filled streets we noticed that the formerly frenzied crowd had lost its energy and vitality. Everyone shuffled back to their home or hotel. The party was over, and we all knew it was time to take off our masks and return to our real lives.]]> 1099 2009-03-07 12:30:52 2009-03-07 12:30:52 open closed stephanie-witnesses-the-burning-of-the-king-and-the-end-of-carnival publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last nice-carnival_fin_22 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1100 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 12:36:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_22.jpg 1100 2009-03-07 12:36:28 2009-03-07 12:36:28 open open nice-carnival_fin_22 inherit 1099 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_22.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata nice-carnival_fin_13 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1102 Sat, 07 Mar 2009 12:36:54 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_13.jpg 1102 2009-03-07 12:36:54 2009-03-07 12:36:54 open open nice-carnival_fin_13 inherit 1099 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/nice-carnival_fin_13.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata velochocolatfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=281 Wed, 11 Mar 2009 10:41:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/velochocolatfr.jpg 281 2009-03-11 10:41:16 2009-03-11 10:41:16 open open velochocolatfr inherit 280 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/velochocolatfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Hot chocolate in the middle season http://francerevisited.com/?p=280 Wed, 11 Mar 2009 10:43:25 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=280 In this middle season of pre-spring, while dreaming of greasing up my bicycle yet still having a taste for hot chocolate, I went to Vélo et Chocolat, a bicycle shop (vélo means bike) with a few tables to sit and enjoy homemade hot chocolate. I went with Bessie and Emerson, this semester’s junior-year-abroad bloggers on France Revisited. Two pots of hot chocolate were being kept warm on the burners behind the counter that afternoon: one with classic rich hot chocolate (3 euros), the other with a slightly nut-spiced version (3.5 euros). We tried them both. Taken together they are among one of the top 10 hot chocolates in Paris by France Revisited standards, i.e. thick, warm, hit-the-spot hot chocolate. If you like sipping thick hot chocolate while a bicycle is being repaired just beyond the menu board, then this is certainly the (only!) place to go. There’s limited seating, limited service, and a limited menu (except on weekends when there may be some pastries or cakes and brunch), and no bike rental. A great way to enjoy the vagaries of off-center travel in Paris. Vélo et Chocolat, 77 quai de Seine, 19th arrondissement. Tel. 01 46 07 07 87. Riquet is the closest metro strop, but I advise taking the scenic route by walking from the Jaures metro stop. The ideal approach is naturally by bike along the bike path from Canal Saint-Martin to Bassin de la Villette.]]> 280 2009-03-11 10:43:25 2009-03-11 10:43:25 open open hot-chocolate-in-the-middle-season publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 5 slsommers@wanadoo.fr 84.37.33.226 2009-03-29 06:37:10 2009-03-29 06:37:10 1 0 0 velochocolatfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=285 Wed, 11 Mar 2009 10:48:31 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/velochocolatfr1.jpg 285 2009-03-11 10:48:31 2009-03-11 10:48:31 open open velochocolatfr1 inherit 280 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/velochocolatfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata madamecezanne http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1112 Thu, 12 Mar 2009 11:19:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/madamecezanne.jpg 1112 2009-03-12 11:19:41 2009-03-12 11:19:41 open open madamecezanne inherit 186 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/madamecezanne.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata creekroad http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1113 Thu, 12 Mar 2009 11:22:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/creekroad.jpg 1113 2009-03-12 11:22:38 2009-03-12 11:22:38 open open creekroad inherit 186 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/creekroad.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Cezanne and Beyond at the Philadelphia Museum of Art http://francerevisited.com/?p=1116 Thu, 12 Mar 2009 11:37:17 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=186 France Revisited asked Lesley Schwarzman and Laura Barton to attend on our behalf the press opening of Cézanne and Beyond, a major exhibit showing at the Philadelphia Museum of Art until May 17, 2009. Here is Lesley’s report. “There is more Cézanne within a 4 mile radius of the Philadelphia Museum of Art than in all of Paris,” says exhibit organizer Joseph J. Rishel, referring to the Cézanne and Beyond exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art and the Cezanne collection at the Barnes Foundation in nearby Merion, PA. The French artist Paul Cézanne (1839-1906) is widely considered to be the father of modern art. His life and work have inspired artists for a century. The current exhibit shows some fifty paintings, watercolors and drawings by Cézanne and includes one hundred paintings, drawings, photographs, and sculptures by eighteen other artists from Cezanne’s time up to the present. Over the past hundred years, particularly beginning with the posthumous retrospective of Cézanne’s work in 1907, artists have looked to him for inspiration—and he has provided it in various ways. Some found inspiration in his single-minded artistic vision, others in his close observation of nature, and still others in his simplification of shapes and colors. As neither a trained artist nor an art historian, it was especially rewarding for me to be accompanied at the exhibit but an artist who has herself been inspired by Cézanne: Laura Barton, who lives just outside of Philadelphia in West Chester, PA. (The fact that Laura and I went to high school together, that it was Laura’s birthday, and that we were going out to lunch afterwards all added to the pleasure.) Laura echoed the chorus of artists displayed in the exhibit in saying that “Cézanne’s simplification of shapes and color inspired me to get the true essence of an object or scene with as little fussing around as possible.” One of my favorite works in the show is Cézanne’s painting of his wife, whom he is said to have adored, sitting dignified yet relaxed in a red armchair. [caption id="attachment_187" align="alignnone" width="432" caption="Paul Cézanne, Madame Cézanne in a Red Armchair, 1877. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston."]Paul Cézanne, Madame Cézanne in a Red Armchair, 1877. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.[/caption] Go to the show, running through May 17, to see how Matisse and Picasso interpreted that painting on their respective canvas, featuring their respective loved one. Click here for more information about the exhibit. Here is one of my favorite recent works by Laura Barton that also reveals her inspiration from Cézanne. Click here for more information about Laura’s work. [caption id="attachment_188" align="alignnone" width="432" caption="Laura Barton, Telephone Pole Series #2: Along Creek Raod"]Laura Barton, Telephone Pole Series #2: Along Creek Raod[/caption] ]]> 1116 2009-03-12 11:37:17 2009-03-12 11:37:17 open open cezanne-and-beyond-at-the-philadelphia-museum-of-art publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock 23 nelly@seglias.ch 81.41.224.135 2009-03-12 21:23:18 2009-03-12 21:23:18 1 0 0 24 laura@laurabarton.com http://www.laurabarton.com 71.185.36.88 2009-03-13 00:26:28 2009-03-13 00:26:28 1 0 0 skytrees1fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=291 Tue, 17 Mar 2009 01:00:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/skytrees1fr.jpg 291 2009-03-17 01:00:47 2009-03-17 01:00:47 open open skytrees1fr inherit 290 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/skytrees1fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata skytrees2fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=292 Tue, 17 Mar 2009 01:01:29 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/skytrees2fr.jpg 292 2009-03-17 01:01:29 2009-03-17 01:01:29 open open skytrees2fr inherit 290 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/skytrees2fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata skytrees1fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=293 Tue, 17 Mar 2009 01:02:27 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/skytrees1fr1.jpg 293 2009-03-17 01:02:27 2009-03-17 01:02:27 open open skytrees1fr1 inherit 290 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/skytrees1fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata skytrees2fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=294 Tue, 17 Mar 2009 01:03:05 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/skytrees2fr1.jpg 294 2009-03-17 01:03:05 2009-03-17 01:03:05 open open skytrees2fr1 inherit 290 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/skytrees2fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata skytrees3fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=295 Tue, 17 Mar 2009 01:03:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/skytrees3fr.jpg 295 2009-03-17 01:03:40 2009-03-17 01:03:40 open open skytrees3fr inherit 290 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/skytrees3fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Skytrees, three kinds http://francerevisited.com/?p=290 Tue, 17 Mar 2009 01:06:19 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=290 [caption id="attachment_293" align="alignnone" width="432" caption="Skytree 1. Photo GLK"]Skytree 1. Photo GLK[/caption] [caption id="attachment_294" align="alignnone" width="432" caption="Skytree 2. Photo GLK."]Skytree2[/caption] [caption id="attachment_295" align="alignnone" width="432" caption="Skytree 3. Photo GLK."]Skytree3[/caption] ]]> 290 2009-03-17 01:06:19 2009-03-17 01:06:19 open open skytrees-three-kinds publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock 6 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=586 67.18.19.226 2009-08-25 22:40:15 2009-08-25 22:40:15 1 pingback 0 0 Bessie drinks wine and sees the light http://francerevisited.com/?p=1121 Thu, 19 Mar 2009 11:10:57 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=195 1121 2009-03-19 11:10:57 2009-03-19 11:10:57 open open bessie-drinks-wine-and-sees-the-light publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last garedelestfrb http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=297 Sat, 28 Mar 2009 20:22:24 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/garedelestfrb.jpg 297 2009-03-28 20:22:24 2009-03-28 20:22:24 open open garedelestfrb inherit 298 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/garedelestfrb.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata garedelestfra http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=299 Sat, 28 Mar 2009 20:24:19 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/garedelestfra.jpg 299 2009-03-28 20:24:19 2009-03-28 20:24:19 open open garedelestfra inherit 298 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/garedelestfra.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Thoughts on a train station, Paris's Gare de l'Est http://francerevisited.com/?p=298 Sat, 28 Mar 2009 20:32:48 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=298 Hall within west entrance of Gare de l'Est. Photo GLK.[/caption] Over the past week I’ve made periodic stops at Gare de l’Est to get a feel for the place. I’ve been there in the morning, in the afternoon (to interview the shop owner), during early evening rush hour, and during late evening downtime. The station is a 15-minute walk from my apartment. My initial intention was to go there once to write an article about a boutique in the station that sells products from the Lorraine region. But then I also decided to mention a shop outside the station, a caterer that sells Alsatian fare. And that turned into the broader investigation about Alsace and Lorraine in Paris that resulted into the article I posted yesterday in this sites Paris/Boutiques section. Thursday night, leaving friends in the 18th arrondissement who had invited me over for dessert and digestif (one of those city invitations you get when you call a friend at 10pm and find out that he’s in the middle of dinner with another friend), I decided to walk home. It was 1:30am. It was a relatively mild evening, it had stopped raining, I had my coat on, and I had research to do. On my way home I walk by Gare du Nord and checked out what brasseries were still busy at that hour and how safe the area felt at 2am (quite, it seemed to me that night). From there I wandered around the streets surrounding Gare de l’Est. Once at home I realized that there was more to write about than I’d put in my boutique article. Among other things, I hadn’t mentioned a famous 40-foot long painting at Gare de l’Est (photo above). So I went back today for more research, which I’ll soon write up for an article in the Paris/Explorations section. Like other stations, Gare de l’Est and its surroundings have surrendered to progress the excitement, seediness, and currency exchange of French train stations as I remember them from the early 80s. What it has now is history, and a smooth ride to Lorraine and Alsace, and, for me, an easy walk home. [caption id="attachment_297" align="alignnone" width="432" caption="East entrance to Gare de l'Est. Photo GLK."]East entrance to Gare de l'Est. Photo GLK[/caption] ]]> 298 2009-03-28 20:32:48 2009-03-28 20:32:48 open open thoughts-on-a-train-station-pariss-gare-de-lest publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last Skytrees, late March http://francerevisited.com/?p=1122 Tue, 31 Mar 2009 08:00:17 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=198 Skytree, Arc de Triomphe. Photo GLK[/caption] [caption id="attachment_200" align="alignnone" width="324" caption="Skytree Avenue Victor Hugo. Photo GLK."]Skytree Avenue Victor Hugo. Photo GLK.[/caption] ]]> 1122 2009-03-31 08:00:17 2009-03-31 08:00:17 open open skytrees-late-march publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 25 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=586 67.18.19.226 2009-08-25 22:42:41 2009-08-25 22:42:41 1 pingback 0 0 march09arc1blog http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1123 Thu, 02 Apr 2009 11:16:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/march09arc1blog.jpg 1123 2009-04-02 11:16:41 2009-04-02 11:16:41 open open march09arc1blog inherit 1122 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/march09arc1blog.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata march09avvhugo2blog http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1124 Thu, 02 Apr 2009 11:17:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/march09avvhugo2blog.jpg 1124 2009-04-02 11:17:47 2009-04-02 11:17:47 open open march09avvhugo2blog inherit 1122 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/march09avvhugo2blog.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata march09canalstmartin2blog http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1125 Thu, 02 Apr 2009 11:18:57 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/march09canalstmartin2blog.jpg 1125 2009-04-02 11:18:57 2009-04-02 11:18:57 open open march09canalstmartin2blog inherit 1122 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/march09canalstmartin2blog.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=306 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:31:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog1.jpg 306 2009-04-10 21:31:37 2009-04-10 21:31:37 open open blog1 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=307 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:32:51 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog2.jpg 307 2009-04-10 21:32:51 2009-04-10 21:32:51 open open blog2 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=308 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:33:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog3.jpg 308 2009-04-10 21:33:41 2009-04-10 21:33:41 open open blog3 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=309 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:35:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog4.jpg 309 2009-04-10 21:35:28 2009-04-10 21:35:28 open open blog4 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=310 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:36:25 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog5.jpg 310 2009-04-10 21:36:25 2009-04-10 21:36:25 open open blog5 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog51 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=311 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:37:17 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog51.jpg 311 2009-04-10 21:37:17 2009-04-10 21:37:17 open open blog51 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog51.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog6 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=312 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:38:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog6.jpg 312 2009-04-10 21:38:41 2009-04-10 21:38:41 open open blog6 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog6.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog7 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=313 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:39:25 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog7.jpg 313 2009-04-10 21:39:25 2009-04-10 21:39:25 open open blog7 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog7.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog8 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=314 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:40:21 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog8.jpg 314 2009-04-10 21:40:21 2009-04-10 21:40:21 open open blog8 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog8.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog9 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=316 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:41:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog9.jpg 316 2009-04-10 21:41:40 2009-04-10 21:41:40 open open blog9 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog9.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-10 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=317 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:42:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-10.jpg 317 2009-04-10 21:42:30 2009-04-10 21:42:30 open open blog-10 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-10.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=318 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:43:08 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-11.jpg 318 2009-04-10 21:43:08 2009-04-10 21:43:08 open open blog-11 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-12 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=319 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:43:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-12.jpg 319 2009-04-10 21:43:40 2009-04-10 21:43:40 open open blog-12 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-12.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-13 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=320 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:44:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-13.jpg 320 2009-04-10 21:44:16 2009-04-10 21:44:16 open open blog-13 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-13.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-14 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=321 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:44:59 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-14.jpg 321 2009-04-10 21:44:59 2009-04-10 21:44:59 open open blog-14 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-14.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-141 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=322 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:46:08 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-141.jpg 322 2009-04-10 21:46:08 2009-04-10 21:46:08 open open blog-141 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-141.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-15 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=323 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:47:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-15.jpg 323 2009-04-10 21:47:10 2009-04-10 21:47:10 open open blog-15 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-15.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-16 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=324 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:48:15 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-16.jpg 324 2009-04-10 21:48:15 2009-04-10 21:48:15 open open blog-16 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-16.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Vichy: Beyond the Memory of War to the Reality of Opulence http://francerevisited.com/?p=305 Fri, 10 Apr 2009 21:55:06 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=305 For many people—both French and foreign—Vichy calls to mind first and foremost the provisional French government of the years 1940-1944 that collaborated with the Nazi Germany occupation of France. Or, as an American tourist I recently met in Paris put it, “Didn’t something bad happen there?” But what one sees at Vichy, a town of 28,000 in the center of France, a 2-hour-50-minute train ride from Paris—at least what I saw during a two-day stay early this month—isn’t the waste of war but rather the echo and life of the old spa town that was here before the French government called it their temporary capital. In other words, the town that tourists and curists now visit is the Vichy of the Vichyssois (those who live in Vichy) rather than the town of the Vichyists (supporters of the Vichy regime), even if some may have once been one and the same. Nevertheless, here's a bit of wartime history before moving on. During the German Blitzkrieg into northern France in the spring of 1940, the French government originally fled to Bordeaux from Paris. In June 1940, France signed an armistice with Germany, and France was formally divided between the Occupied Zone, which comprised northern France and the length of the Atlantic Coast, and the so-called Free Zone, which compromised the rest, with the exception of the southeast corner of the country which was occupied by Italy. The French government then set up shop in Vichy. Why Vichy? Not for its spring water and hot springs but for the modern infrastructure that had grown from it. In the 1850s, Vichy was a small budding spa resort. But no sooner had Napoleon III (emperor from 1852 to 1870) started to find relief from his rheumatism here in 1861 then threw his full imperial weight behind its development. A town of leisure and luxury began growing immediately. The town’s development over the past 150 years has left structures and details that reveal four major periods of architecture and urbanism: Napoleon III (1860s), Art Nouveau (1895-1903), Art Deco (1925-1935), Contemporary (since the late 1980s). Each period has modernized the infrastructure, technology, comfort, and architecture of the town. It’s those details, and the general sense of well-being in this town, that can entice a traveler off the beaten track of major highways and high-speed train routes to spend a day or two or three in Vichy. For a government in search of a new, provisional capital, Vichy in 1940 was an ideal location in that it was situated in the center of France, had extensive modern communications system—by air, by rail, by telephone—, and had, for such a small town, an astounding number of hotels—300—that could be requisitioned for government purposes. The government arrived on July 2, 1940. A plaque inside the opera house at Vichy indicates that it was there that on July 10 the National Assembly voted full power to Field Marshal Philippe Pétain, thus ending France’s Third Republic, which had been born in 1870 from the fall of the aforementioned Napoleon III. Oops, I said that backwards. The plaque actually states that 80 members of the National Assembly (out of 649) voted to “affirm their attachment to the Republic, their love for freedom, and their faith in victory [over Germany].” Or maybe the plaque got it backwards. Either way, it was here that was created the Vichy Government. Although the German army didn’t physically occupy the Free Zone, the French government collaborated with German powers in an echo of the latter’s policies in the north, particularly by allowing like-minded militia, supplying the Germans with forced labor, and interning Jews and dissidents, eventually handed over to the Germans. But pass that plaque and open the door to the theater and you won’t be struck by memories of war but rather by the radiance of the Art Nouveau décor. Visiting Vichy today doesn’t mean forgetting the war but rather recognizing it and moving on since the true interest of a 24-72-hour stay is the architecture and the pleasure of walking around its small, languorous center with an eye open for details. Leaving aside contemporary buildings, here are some details from the Napoleon III (1860s), Art Nouveau (1895-1903), and Art Deco (1925-1935) periods that have marked the town with some luxuriant architecture. Napoleon III As noted above, the imperial push of Napoleon III, who took power as emperor in 1852 and was sent into exile in 1870, caused the development of Vichy, then a budding spa town, into a town of high luxury that would rival with the great German and Hungarian spa towns. Boosting Vichy’s place on the map in the 1860s naturally implied the construction of a new train station, shown here, that has just been restored. The façade of the casino (now convention center) is also a remnant of the 1860s. The next major development of Vichy was at the turn of the century, which has left the town with numerous Art Nouveau details. For example, in 1900 a glass canopy was added to the casino, so this photo reveals the beauty of both eras. Art Nouveau Other than this canopy, the most stunning example of Art Nouveau is inside the theater, completed in 1903, that’s adjacent to the casino. The exterior would likely get mixed reviews even if it were restored, but the interior of the 1400-seat theater, which was restored in the 1990s, is worth the trip for anyone who admires grand theaters or Art Nouveau. Click here for more information and for the current program. These photos don’t do it justice because they weren’t taken with the right lighting or equipment. Vichy’s central park, Parc des Sources, lies between the Casino/Opera/Convention Center and the central building where medical spa-goers and non-medical tourists can come to take dose of Vichy water. Two covered walkways border the park leading between the two. I visited Vichy over two days in the company of a dozen French journalists, one Japanese journalist, and one Irish journalist who are members of the Association des Journalistes du Patrimoine, i.e. journalists writing about heritage. I’m not a member. Heritage/Patrimoine is an important concept in France, one that’s frequently discussed and endorsed. It relates to the conservation and promotion of landmarks and other historically revealing buildings, parks, monuments, and much else that people are willing to fight to maintain, such as French cuisine. The English would also easily understand the concept (without the extension to cuisine). But it’s a rather vague notion to my American mind. In American terms, I can only explain patrimoine as being a combination of the endangered species list in Oregon, the desire to bear arms in Texas, the Saint Patrick’s Day Parade in New York, government assistance for car manufacturers, and Yellowstone National Park. I’ll explore the subject further on another occasion. For now, I mention the Association des Journalistes du Patrimoine for two reasons: 1. The members I met were more fun than I thought they would be, 2. Through them I had access to the holy of holies of this old spa town: two of the few remaining rooms from the high luxury spa area in the 1903 spa complex. To the right is a view from the central portion of the first-class spa complex, the Thermes du Dome. The Thermes du Dome had a men’s wing and a women’s wing and each wing had two grand luxury suites consisting of a dunking pool room, a bathroom, and a lounge room. Here is the pool room in the men’s section with its beautiful Art Nouveau irises. That section isn’t open to the public but you might be able to enter the central portion under the dome so as to see the mural painting at the entrance to the women’s wing. Here’s a portion of that painting. Those thermes (thermal baths) are no longer in use as a spa, however the active spas are all nearby. As far as its water and spas go, Vichy is a company town, with the Compagnie Fermière de Vichy, which has existed since Napoleon III’s time, having the concession from the State. CFV joined forces with the Accor Hotel Group to exploit the three main spas and adjacent hotels in the center of town. The 3-star Novotel-Thermalia complex is just behind the Thermes du Dome and partially integrates another building from 1903. The 4-star Sofitel-Célestins complex is a few hundred yards away, while the 2-star Ibis-Callou complex nearby in the opposite direction. Information about the three is available on www.destinationvichy.comDespite the Art Nouveau purity of some turn-of-the-century building in Vichy there was a lot of neo-whatever going on between 1880 and 1914, hence the variety of style of villas on this street. Many of the great palace hotels of Vichy were built or transformed during this period. The only major hotel that’s still active is 4-star Aletti Palace Hotel www.hotel-aletti.fr, which was built in 1908. Down near Lake Allier, here’s the spring that’s open to the public, the Source des Celestins, the best place to fill your water bottle before enjoying a stroll along the lakeside promenade. Art Deco Among the most striking Art Deco details in Vichy are these three stained glass windows Francis Chigot from 1926 found in a sweet little 500-seat theater that’s now part of the Centre Culturel Valery Larbaud. I’ve cut out the central portion of the windows here and pasted them together. They’re actually separated by columns of wall and are about 15 feet high. Reading left to right, the window represents Comedy, Music (or The Orchestra), and Tragedy. In the same theater here’s an image of bathing women that’s worth comparing with the Art Nouveau-era image of bathing women above. Around town you’ll occasionally come across Art Deco villas, mixed in with villas and hotels from earlier periods. This one served as the American embassy to France from 1940 to 1942. It may seem strange that the U.S. had an embassy in Vichy, especially once the U.S. and Germany were officially at war after the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in December 1941. Relations with Vichy, never very direct in any case, degraded through 1942, until France’s Vichy Government cut diplomatic relations with the U.S. in the fall of that year. The main street from which the above photo was taken nevertheless maintained its name Boulevard des Etats-Unis (Boulevard of the United States), a name which it had prior to the war. It now runs into Boulevard du Président J.F. Kennedy. For another glimpse of the U.S. presence in Vichy, here’s the left half of a plaque indicating that a military hospital was set up here during WWI. (The right half shows the same text in French.) Notice the bullet holes in it, probably pot shots taken by militiamen during WWII. For an official U.S. summary of French-American diplomatic relations since 1776, including the Vichy period, see this page from the site of the U.S. Department of State.     Returning to Paris Before leaving town some of us went to the famous chocolate-and-candy shop Aux Marocains. The shops colonial-era name is also that of caramels with a soft caramel interior and a harder caramel exterior, patented in 1920. Below, here’s one last photo of the high luxury bathroom in the first-class spa of 1903 (left). I would have felt right at home there as you can tell from the sectional image of the toilet of my apartment in Paris (right). A man’s home is indeed his castle. A more extensive article about Vichy will appear in France Revisited’s France/Southeast section this summer. In the meantime, for more information about Vichy visit the site of the Vichy Tourist Office.]]> 305 2009-04-10 21:55:06 2009-04-10 21:55:06 open open vichy-from-the-memory-of-war-to-the-reality-of-opulence publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 7 Lortz73@hotmail.se http://www.hotelleniparis.se/disneyland+paris/ 90.237.168.127 2010-10-13 08:36:36 2010-10-13 08:36:36 0 0 0 blog11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=328 Sat, 11 Apr 2009 01:33:20 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog11.jpg 328 2009-04-11 01:33:20 2009-04-11 01:33:20 open open blog11 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-142 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=331 Sat, 11 Apr 2009 01:41:24 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-142.jpg 331 2009-04-11 01:41:24 2009-04-11 01:41:24 open open blog-142 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-142.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-143 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=334 Sat, 11 Apr 2009 01:45:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-143.jpg 334 2009-04-11 01:45:33 2009-04-11 01:45:33 open open blog-143 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-143.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-151 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=335 Sat, 11 Apr 2009 01:47:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-151.jpg 335 2009-04-11 01:47:30 2009-04-11 01:47:30 open open blog-151 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-151.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blog-144 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=337 Sat, 11 Apr 2009 01:52:27 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-144.jpg 337 2009-04-11 01:52:27 2009-04-11 01:52:27 open open blog-144 inherit 305 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/blog-144.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata GLK and WTI support the arts through "Vintage Paris" donation http://francerevisited.com/?p=1132 Mon, 20 Apr 2009 21:18:22 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=206 très chic soirée parisienne whose proceeds benefit the museum's Division of Education. By donating nearly $5000 worth of Gary Lee Kraut's book "Paris Revisited: The Guide for the Return Traveler" we were able to fulfill the museum's request for a memorable gift for the hundreds of donors in attendance at the event, thereby honoring their contributions, reinforcing the Paris-Philadelphia connection, and showing our own commitment to the importance of the arts and cross-cultural understanding in education.]]> 1132 2009-04-20 21:18:22 2009-04-20 21:18:22 open open wti-and-glk-support-the-arts-through-a-major-donation publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock img_2480 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=344 Mon, 27 Apr 2009 20:32:02 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_2480.jpg 344 2009-04-27 20:32:02 2009-04-27 20:32:02 open open img_2480 inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_2480.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata img_2475 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=346 Mon, 27 Apr 2009 20:53:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_2475.jpg 346 2009-04-27 20:53:49 2009-04-27 20:53:49 open open img_2475 inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_2475.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata The Green Traveler: Arbor Day http://francerevisited.com/?p=342 Mon, 27 Apr 2009 21:06:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=342 That’s my mother in the photo above. Proud as she was to pose with it on Arbor Day, she’s actually quite the fatalist when it comes to new plantings. No sooner had she taken the picture of me (below) with the newly planted dogwood then she told me that between the deer and the lawnmower I shouldn’t get too attached. What I especially like about this sprig of a dogwood (it’s the foot-high twig the shovel in case you don’t see it) is that I planted it on Arbor Day. You see, one of the great pleasures of travel is to hit upon a local holiday, even—or perhaps especially—when you’ve simply traveled back to your old backyard. And so it was with me and Arbor Day in West Trenton, New Jersey. Truth be told, I wasn’t aware that it was Arbor Day until I went to the Ewing Public Library and was happy-arbor-dayed at the entrance by two kindly women from the West Trenton Garden Club who were handing out the sprigs of silky dogwood (cornus amomum). They seemed to be the only people in the area who knew it was Arbor Day. For the rest of the day I went around trying to spread the word, but few people believed me. Most assumed that I meant Earth Day, which was two days before, while one person suggested that I was confusing Earth Day with some French holiday. Another insisted that Earth Day had actually replaced Arbor Day since he couldn’t recall anyone mentioning Arbor Day after he left elementary school. Arbor Day is actually a great unsung and original American holiday. It is a rarity in that it promotes neither politics, nor religion, nor nationalism, nor veterans, nor an ethnic group, nor much in the way of commerce, the combination of which explains why it passes so unnoticed. No one outside of garden clubs makes an effort to claim it—or recuperate it, as the French would say—as their own because there would be little immediate advantage in doing so. Arbor Day is also a rarity on the American calendar in that it originated on neither the East Coast nor the West Coast but smack in the middle, in Nebraska, where civic-minded tree-lover J. Sterling Morton organized the first Arbor Day in April 1872. Within a decade it had spread to other states, with school districts often being the local purveyors of the greening of America. National Arbor Day is now celebrated the last Friday in April, though some states prefer the last Monday, others, particularly in the southeast, celebrate it earlier in the year in keeping with the arrival of prime tree-planting season to the region, and a few northern border states opt for May. Arbor Day is indeed now overwhelmed by Earth Day. Despite the latter’s laudable goal of placing concern and care for the environment on our national agenda, there was something suspicious about Earth Day from the start since it was intended to teach and demonstrate rather than truly celebrate and honor. I was in 6th grade when the first Earth Day was declared in 1970. As the school bus was approaching the school that April 22 morning there was a tremendous traffic jam since some progressive-minded older students had apparently decided that we should all get out of the bus and walk the remaining half-mile to school. What I remember of the first Earth Day is therefore cars and buses idling for an hour or two and a long walk past a hundred exhaust pipes. What I remember of last week’s Earth Day is radio and television commercials appealing for Earth-loving consumers to drive out to the mall to buy stuff that will biodegrade sometime before North Korean uranium rods. Earth Day is a fine idea both nationally and internationally, and some day a traveler from Mars will get the kind of thrill of traveling to our planet for Earth Day that travelers now get by going to Holland for the Queen’s Birthday (April 30). For the time being, though, Earth Day isn’t pagan enough to have much cultural interest and it’s too vague to offer anything but an occasion for national and international corporations trying to outgreen each other. Arbor Day, on the other hand, means the planting of and caring for trees, and so has little place in the economy but lots of place in the backyard or the local park. Faithful readers may want to check back in 5 or 10 years to see how my silky dogwood is doing, that is if it manages to escape the dual threat of the deer and the lawnmower. In the meantime, put Arbor Day 2010 on your calendar and don’t believe the Earth Day commercials. For more about Arbor Day and state by state dates see www.arborday.org.]]> 342 2009-04-27 21:06:13 2009-04-27 21:06:13 closed closed the-green-traveler-arbor-day publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last img_24801 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=353 Tue, 28 Apr 2009 16:47:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24801.jpg 353 2009-04-28 16:47:38 2009-04-28 16:47:38 open open img_24801 inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24801.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata img_24751 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=354 Tue, 28 Apr 2009 16:48:57 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24751.jpg 354 2009-04-28 16:48:57 2009-04-28 16:48:57 open open img_24751 inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24751.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata img_24802 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=356 Tue, 28 Apr 2009 17:14:19 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24802.jpg 356 2009-04-28 17:14:19 2009-04-28 17:14:19 open open img_24802 inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24802.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata img_24752 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=358 Tue, 28 Apr 2009 17:15:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24752.jpg 358 2009-04-28 17:15:49 2009-04-28 17:15:49 open open img_24752 inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24752.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata img_24803 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=366 Tue, 28 Apr 2009 18:39:50 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24803.jpg 366 2009-04-28 18:39:50 2009-04-28 18:39:50 open open img_24803 inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24803.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata img_24753 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=367 Tue, 28 Apr 2009 18:40:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24753.jpg 367 2009-04-28 18:40:44 2009-04-28 18:40:44 open open img_24753 inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/img_24753.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jsilverdecoration1fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=372 Thu, 07 May 2009 15:51:42 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration1fr.jpg 372 2009-05-07 15:51:42 2009-05-07 15:51:42 open open jsilverdecoration1fr inherit 371 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration1fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jsilverdecoration2fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=373 Thu, 07 May 2009 15:53:18 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration2fr.jpg 373 2009-05-07 15:53:18 2009-05-07 15:53:18 open open jsilverdecoration2fr inherit 371 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration2fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jsilverdecoration3fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=374 Thu, 07 May 2009 15:54:01 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration3fr.jpg 374 2009-05-07 15:54:01 2009-05-07 15:54:01 open open jsilverdecoration3fr inherit 371 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration3fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jsilverdecoration4fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=375 Thu, 07 May 2009 15:55:32 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration4fr.jpg 375 2009-05-07 15:55:32 2009-05-07 15:55:32 open open jsilverdecoration4fr inherit 371 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration4fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jsilverdecoration5fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=376 Thu, 07 May 2009 15:56:02 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration5fr.jpg 376 2009-05-07 15:56:02 2009-05-07 15:56:02 open open jsilverdecoration5fr inherit 371 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration5fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata An official kiss from the French ambassador to the United States seals the deal http://francerevisited.com/?p=371 Thu, 07 May 2009 16:06:58 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=371 Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Palmes académiques, the most prestigious honor a scholar or academician can receive from the French Government. Adding further weight to the decoration is the fact that the French ambassador to the United States, Pierre Vimont, in person came to Philadelphia to pin the palms on Joanne. The Palmes académiques, established in 1808 by Napoléon Bonaparte, recognizes those who have advanced the cause of French culture, education, and the arts and made active contribution to the expansion of French culture throughout the world. Joanne fit the bill for her years of teaching French, her involvement with the American Association of Teachers of French (AATF) and other Franco-American organizations, and her work as publisher of Francophile books, in French and in English, at Beach Lloyd Publishers, whose mission is “to recognize the strong historical and ideological ties that bind France and the United States, and to view those ideals globally.” Before the ceremony began, former Honorary Consul of France to Philadelphia Daniele Thomas Easton introduced me and France Revisited to Ambassador Vimont. I didn’t dare ask the ambassador to sign up for the France Revisited Newsletter seeing as half my friends have yet to do so, but the three of us had a nice chat about this site nonetheless. Below is a photo, left to right, of me, the ambassador and the former honorary consul. Michael E. Scullin, current Honorary Consul of France to Philadelphia, was caught in the photo to the right. (Click on all photos to enlarge). Below is a photo of Ambassador Vimont pinning the palms on Joanne’s lapel, after which he gave her the traditional kiss on each check that seals the deal. Joanne then posed for the official photograph with Ambassador Vilmont, left, and Honorary Consul Michael E. Scullin, right. Below Joanne proudly displays her palms, freshly pinned. Also in attendance among the Francophile luminaries of Philadelphia and illustrious guests from the U.S. Canada, and France were some of the members of the Board of the Alliance Francaise de Philadelphie. Among them, left to right in the photo below, were Alliance Board Members Delphine Lawrence (Secretary), Martine Chauvet (Executive Director), Joanne Silver, Lynn H. Miller (who has contributed an article about Frenchtown, N.J. to France Revisited), and Diana Regan (President). Bravo et félicitations, Joanne!]]> 371 2009-05-07 16:06:58 2009-05-07 16:06:58 open open an-official-kiss-from-the-french-ambassador-to-the-united-states-seals-the-deal publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock 8 GSM-JR@CFL.RR.COM 72.189.188.200 2010-06-05 18:30:04 2010-06-05 18:30:04 1 0 0 jsilverdecoration1fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=381 Thu, 07 May 2009 16:13:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration1fr1.jpg 381 2009-05-07 16:13:16 2009-05-07 16:13:16 open open jsilverdecoration1fr1 inherit 371 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jsilverdecoration1fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata U.S. Senator honored with guest blog on France Revisited http://francerevisited.com/?p=1140 Thu, 07 May 2009 23:41:43 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=212 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCew-81O47w. To read another Francophile's take on the address, see our Opinion page. [caption id="attachment_223" align="alignnone" width="435" caption="Inspired by the nuclear Francophilia of the Republican Weekly Address, Thibault Perois and Johan Xerri visit the Centrale Nucleaire des Ardennes."]Inspired by the nuclear Francophilia of the Republican Weekly Address, Thibault Perois and Johan Xerri visit the Centrale Nucleaire des Ardennes.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_224" align="alignnone" width="435" caption="TP rejoices in the knowledge that nuclear energy supplies 80% of France's electricity. Photo JX."]Nuclear energy supplies 80% of France's electricity. TP rejoices. Photo JX.[/caption] ]]> 1140 2009-05-07 23:41:43 2009-05-07 23:41:43 open open senator-honored-with-guest-blog-on-france-revisited publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last republicannuclearfrancophiles http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1146 Fri, 08 May 2009 18:54:00 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/republicannuclearfrancophiles.jpg 1146 2009-05-08 18:54:00 2009-05-08 18:54:00 open open republicannuclearfrancophiles inherit 1140 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/republicannuclearfrancophiles.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata republicannuclearfrancophiles2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1147 Fri, 08 May 2009 18:58:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/republicannuclearfrancophiles2.jpg 1147 2009-05-08 18:58:13 2009-05-08 18:58:13 open open republicannuclearfrancophiles2 inherit 1140 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/republicannuclearfrancophiles2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata republicannuclearfrancophilesblog http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1148 Fri, 08 May 2009 18:59:12 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/republicannuclearfrancophilesblog.jpg 1148 2009-05-08 18:59:12 2009-05-08 18:59:12 open open republicannuclearfrancophilesblog inherit 1140 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/republicannuclearfrancophilesblog.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay14fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1160 Thu, 14 May 2009 17:16:04 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay14fr.jpg 1160 2009-05-14 17:16:04 2009-05-14 17:16:04 open open jordanmay14fr inherit 237 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay14fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Singing my way through Paris http://francerevisited.com/?p=1164 Thu, 14 May 2009 17:19:07 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=237 ]]> 1164 2009-05-14 17:19:07 2009-05-14 17:19:07 open open singing-my-way-through-paris publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 26 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=723 67.18.19.226 2009-11-23 00:11:00 2009-11-23 00:11:00 1 pingback 0 0 jordanmay15fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1165 Fri, 15 May 2009 15:37:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr1.jpg 1165 2009-05-15 15:37:38 2009-05-15 15:37:38 open open jordanmay15fr1 inherit 243 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay15fr11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1166 Fri, 15 May 2009 15:38:09 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr11.jpg 1166 2009-05-15 15:38:09 2009-05-15 15:38:09 open open jordanmay15fr11 inherit 243 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay15fr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1167 Fri, 15 May 2009 15:38:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr2.jpg 1167 2009-05-15 15:38:47 2009-05-15 15:38:47 open open jordanmay15fr2 inherit 243 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay15fr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1168 Fri, 15 May 2009 15:41:08 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr3.jpg 1168 2009-05-15 15:41:08 2009-05-15 15:41:08 open open jordanmay15fr3 inherit 243 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay15fr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1169 Fri, 15 May 2009 15:41:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr4.jpg 1169 2009-05-15 15:41:37 2009-05-15 15:41:37 open open jordanmay15fr4 inherit 243 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay15fr41 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1170 Fri, 15 May 2009 15:42:19 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr41.jpg 1170 2009-05-15 15:42:19 2009-05-15 15:42:19 open open jordanmay15fr41 inherit 243 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr41.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay15fr5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1171 Fri, 15 May 2009 15:42:54 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr5.jpg 1171 2009-05-15 15:42:54 2009-05-15 15:42:54 open open jordanmay15fr5 inherit 243 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay15fr6 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1172 Fri, 15 May 2009 15:43:51 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr6.jpg 1172 2009-05-15 15:43:51 2009-05-15 15:43:51 open open jordanmay15fr6 inherit 243 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr6.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay15fr7 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1174 Fri, 15 May 2009 15:44:32 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr7.jpg 1174 2009-05-15 15:44:32 2009-05-15 15:44:32 open open jordanmay15fr7 inherit 243 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr7.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay15fr8 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1175 Fri, 15 May 2009 15:45:03 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr8.jpg 1175 2009-05-15 15:45:03 2009-05-15 15:45:03 open open jordanmay15fr8 inherit 243 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay15fr8.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Paris in the rain... is still beautiful http://francerevisited.com/?p=1178 Fri, 15 May 2009 15:50:31 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=243 In front of Notre-Dame Cathedral there was a tent set up for the Bread Festival, Fete du Pain (until May 18). Apprentice bakers were teaching kids to roll bread. Bakers from Quebec were invited as special guests. They may have been invited to show off bread making in Quebec but from what I can see they were mostly drinking Champagne. During a downpour I had some hot chocolate at the café Le Rostand across the street from the Luxembourg Garden. The garden was empty because of the rain. But we walked around anyway. Here I am posing in front of a sculpture by Arthur Bourgeois of a Greek actor rehearsing his lines. The Pantheon is in the background. Readers of France Revisited may know me as a musician but I’m also an actor. When I was 11 I had a starring role in an Israeli television show designed to teach English there. In the past few years I’ve been in various musicals and plays, including “Mikado” and “1776.” Still waiting for my big break, so directors and casting agents shouldn’t hesitate to contact me. Last night I learned that I became an uncle for the second time. My sister Talya give birth to a boy yesterday. So here I am by the Stravinsky Fountain sending kisses to Talya and to the entire family back home. After touring we then went back to Gary’s apartment to work on a new song. Along the way, in honor of the Bread Festival—and because we were hungry—we bought a baguette by Canal Saint Martin. The sun came out as soon as we got back to the apartment. All photos by GLK.]]> 1178 2009-05-15 15:50:31 2009-05-15 15:50:31 open open paris-in-the-rain-is-still-beautiful publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last stchapfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=390 Sat, 16 May 2009 16:12:25 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr1.jpg 390 2009-05-16 16:12:25 2009-05-16 16:12:25 open open stchapfr1 inherit 388 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata stchapfr11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=392 Sat, 16 May 2009 16:16:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr11.jpg 392 2009-05-16 16:16:33 2009-05-16 16:16:33 open open stchapfr11 inherit 388 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata stchapfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=393 Sat, 16 May 2009 16:17:07 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr2.jpg 393 2009-05-16 16:17:07 2009-05-16 16:17:07 open open stchapfr2 inherit 388 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata stchapfr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=394 Sat, 16 May 2009 16:17:35 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr3.jpg 394 2009-05-16 16:17:35 2009-05-16 16:17:35 open open stchapfr3 inherit 388 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata stchapfr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=395 Sat, 16 May 2009 16:18:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr4.jpg 395 2009-05-16 16:18:10 2009-05-16 16:18:10 open open stchapfr4 inherit 388 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata stchapfr5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=397 Sat, 16 May 2009 16:20:15 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr5.jpg 397 2009-05-16 16:20:15 2009-05-16 16:20:15 open open stchapfr5 inherit 388 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata stchapfr51 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=398 Sat, 16 May 2009 16:21:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr51.jpg 398 2009-05-16 16:21:13 2009-05-16 16:21:13 open open stchapfr51 inherit 388 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr51.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata stchapfr6 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=399 Sat, 16 May 2009 16:22:07 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr6.jpg 399 2009-05-16 16:22:07 2009-05-16 16:22:07 open open stchapfr6 inherit 388 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr6.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata stchapfr52 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=401 Sat, 16 May 2009 16:26:55 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr52.jpg 401 2009-05-16 16:26:55 2009-05-16 16:26:55 open open stchapfr52 inherit 388 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/stchapfr52.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Royal Chapel of Vincennes reopens 9 years after storm http://francerevisited.com/?p=388 Sat, 16 May 2009 16:35:20 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=388 The Sainte Chapelle in Paris, a royal chapel once attached to the palace of the kings of France, is well known as a jewel of 13th-century stained glass and Gothic architecture. Far less known yet deserving a place on the trails of the return traveler is the other Sainte Chapelle, the royal chapel at the Chateau de Vincennes, which reopened on May 13 after 9 years of restoration. Vincennes is an easy 20-minute metro ride from the center of Paris. To get to there you need only take the metro to the end of the Château de Vincennes line (line 1), step outside, and cross the drawbridge across the moat. This is the only medieval fortified castle remaining in the Paris region. Acrobatic workers were doing some maintenance on the drawbridge when I arrived on a gray spring day for the press opening of the chapel. The Sainte Chapelle of Vincennes doesn’t have the explosive beauty of the chapel in Paris, but it is in fact a direct descendent of the royal chapel in Paris. Sainte Chapelle means holy chapel, a name typically used to designate a royal chapel built to house important relics. Like the Sainte Chapelle in Paris, the sanctity of Vincennes’s chapel came from the fact that at one time or another both held articles sold to King Louis IX in 1237 said to be relics of Christ’s Passion: a piece of the Cross and the Crown of Thorns. (They’re now kept at Notre-Dame.) Louis IX (1214-1270) ordered the construction of the Sainte Chapelle at his castle in Paris specifically to house, reflect, and honor the significance of those relics. He also set about transforming a royal hunting lodge at Vincennes, to the east of his capital, into a fortified castle and an important seat of his power. Already the relics were being held at Vincennes while awaiting construction of the chapel in Paris. It was from Vincennes that the king bid farewell to his family before leading the Crusades of 1248 and 1270, the 7th and 8th Crusades. He died in Tunisia on that final crusade. By then he had transformed the royal castle at Vincennes into the second major royal abode after that on Ile de la Cité in the middle of Paris. In 1379, Charles V (1338-1380) ordered the construction of the Sainte Chapelle at Vincennes. During an era whose history would eventually be dominated by The Hundred Years War, the project was part of an effort to solidify both his power and his castle in the face of threats to his in reign from nearby dukedoms, from within Paris itself, and from the English. The dungeon/keep, seen here, was completed by the time of death. Guided tours are given there. As to the chapel, it was just getting started when Charles V died. Though initially pursued under his son’s reign, it advanced through fits and starts and it wasn’t completed until 1552, under Henri II. That explains the Hs that decorate the chapel’s vaulted ceiling, below left. The detail below right indicates that it was built as a French royal chapel. On Dec. 26, 1999, winds whipping through the Paris region at 90 miles an hour broke though stained glass and destabilized vaults and damaged sculptural work inside and out, so the chapel required important restoration work. It reopened this week for the first time since then, though renovations will continue on the exterior and in some windows. While Vincennes’s chapel doesn’t have the impressive stained glass of the Sainte Chapelle in Paris, its glass and stone form a peaceable, harmonic space inside beneath a gracious vaulted ceiling. A temporary exhibit of Bulgarian icons, now accompanying the reopening of the chapel, prohibits a full view of that space and allows only partial glimpses of its inner harmony. But the icons themselves have their own static beauty, as the 10th-century ceramic icon of Saint Theodore, below left, and the 18th-century story-telling icon of Saint Panteleimon, the healer, below right. In addition to its medieval portions (chapel, dungeon, moat) of the Castle of Vincennes, the former royal complex also has major remnants from its role as a 17th-century pleasure place. In the early 19th century Napoleon I ordered the complex converted into barracks for his army and then also an arsenal. The complex still belongs to the Army. Admission to the complex is free, however, there is an admission fee for the chapel (with the exhibit of icons) and dungeon. Admission to the chapel during this exhibit, showing until Aug. 30, costs 8€. A joint ticket for the chapel/exhibit and the dungeon costs 12€. The chapel and the dungeon are open daily 10am-6pm except during the June 21 Music Festival. Click here for further practical information. Other religion, other relics: While Vincennes’s Sainte Chapelle no longer has a religious function, a major religious structure elsewhere in the Vincennes Woods (Bois de Vincennes) is very much in operation. That’s the Grand Buddhist Pagoda, which on May 17 will receive the relics of the Buddha Sakyamouni that recently arrived from Thailand. The Grand Pagoda is located in the park a 15-minute walk from the Porte Dorée metro station (line 8).]]> 388 2009-05-16 16:35:20 2009-05-16 16:35:20 open open royal-chapel-of-vincennes-reopens-9-years-after-storm publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock jordanmay16fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1181 Sun, 17 May 2009 00:37:02 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay16fr1.jpg 1181 2009-05-17 00:37:02 2009-05-17 00:37:02 open open jordanmay16fr1 inherit 258 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay16fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay16fr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1182 Sun, 17 May 2009 00:37:35 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay16fr2.jpg 1182 2009-05-17 00:37:35 2009-05-17 00:37:35 open open jordanmay16fr2 inherit 258 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay16fr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay16fr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1183 Sun, 17 May 2009 00:38:20 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay16fr3.jpg 1183 2009-05-17 00:38:20 2009-05-17 00:38:20 open open jordanmay16fr3 inherit 258 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay16fr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay16fr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1184 Sun, 17 May 2009 00:38:51 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay16fr4.jpg 1184 2009-05-17 00:38:51 2009-05-17 00:38:51 open open jordanmay16fr4 inherit 258 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay16fr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay16fr41 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1185 Sun, 17 May 2009 00:39:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay16fr41.jpg 1185 2009-05-17 00:39:28 2009-05-17 00:39:28 open open jordanmay16fr41 inherit 258 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay16fr41.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata I may not know French food but I know falafels http://francerevisited.com/?p=1190 Sun, 17 May 2009 00:44:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=258 Last night I had a great and filling meal at Benoit, which Gary tells me serves upscale yet traditional bistro food, though I wouldn’t know because I didn’t see the bill and because I don’t know enough about French food to know what’s traditional and what isn’t. We went with some really nice people that Gary knows who were in Paris for the weekend. Afterwards we all took a walk by the river. After the friends left the Eiffel Tower sparkled. That's it sparkling over my head in the picture. I slept in this morning, then Gary and I worked on a new song. I had the tune already and Gary came up with some lyrics, then we adapted the tune, then the lyrics, and had a song. We also worked on one yesterday, again on a tune I already had. Don’t think that we just pull them out of a hat. They’re really just rough ideas, without any arrangement. But they’re still songs and may eventually get onto my myspace or youtube page or on France Revisited… before becoming really big hits. This evening was Museum Night. Many museums were open and free. We met up with David Finkle, a writer, theater critic, lyricist, and somehow cousin of mine I’d never met. He lives in New York. He has a blog on huffingtonpost.com and is chief drama critic for theatermania.com. He came to Paris for the weekend while in London seeing plays and musicals for two weeks. I got some advice from him on what to see when I go to London next weekend. We went to the Pompidou Center. Here on the left David and I are on the top of the Pompidou before sunset. On the right here we are at the bottom after sunset. In between we visited the Museum of Modern Art. Here I am standing by a painting by Juan Gris (1887-1927), “Arlequin assis à la guitare” (1919). Please don’t think I know any of the details found in this blog. Gary likes to take notes and tell me where to stand. From there we went into the Marais to visit the Museum of Jewish Art and History. And from there we went to Rue des Rosiers to have falafels. Unlike traditional French bistro food I know falafels. The one I had here was pretty good.]]> 1190 2009-05-17 00:44:33 2009-05-17 00:44:33 open open i-may-not-know-french-food-but-i-know-falafels publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last jordanmay17fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1192 Sun, 17 May 2009 21:42:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay17fr1.jpg 1192 2009-05-17 21:42:53 2009-05-17 21:42:53 open open jordanmay17fr1 inherit 271 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay17fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay17fr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1193 Sun, 17 May 2009 21:43:34 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay17fr2.jpg 1193 2009-05-17 21:43:34 2009-05-17 21:43:34 open open jordanmay17fr2 inherit 271 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay17fr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay17fr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1194 Sun, 17 May 2009 21:44:08 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay17fr3.jpg 1194 2009-05-17 21:44:08 2009-05-17 21:44:08 open open jordanmay17fr3 inherit 271 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay17fr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay17fr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1195 Sun, 17 May 2009 21:44:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay17fr4.jpg 1195 2009-05-17 21:44:41 2009-05-17 21:44:41 open open jordanmay17fr4 inherit 271 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay17fr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata The market, the Eiffel, and the song http://francerevisited.com/?p=271 Sun, 17 May 2009 21:46:54 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=271 Another gray day, but who cares. Gary and I went to the local Sunday morning market where Gary introduced me to some of the sellers. Here I am with Jean-Marie Patois as he finishes a bouquet. We bought a baguette and meat to make a sandwich for lunch. After lunch I took the metro to the Trocadero station to see the Eiffel Tower from across the river, then crossed over to see it up close. The last time I was so close to the Eiffel was in the summer of 1994, when I was 16 years old, traveling with my family. We didn’t go up back then, but this time I did. The line wasn’t too bad, only about 15 minutes. I went to the top. I forgot to take a camera, but you probably know what the Eiffel Tower looks like already. It was amazing seeing the entire city from so far up. Gave me a whole different perspective on Paris. Early evening Gary and I worked on the two songs we’d written on Friday and Saturday. Gary and I are still fighting over the lyrics of the first song. The second song is a travel song, possibly called “On a Train from Paris to Rome,” and I think we’ve done a good job of polishing it up. If you got the France Revisited Newsletter last night you know that we’re preparing a concert for Thursday. For dinner we picked up chicken pita wraps from a nearby Lebanese restaurant. and picnicked along the canal. Very good, reminded me of the food back home. Did a lot of walking today, including going up the stairs to Gary’s apartment. ]]> 271 2009-05-17 21:46:54 2009-05-17 21:46:54 open open the-market-the-eiffel-and-the-song publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last jordanmay18fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1198 Mon, 18 May 2009 23:04:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay18fr1.jpg 1198 2009-05-18 23:04:28 2009-05-18 23:04:28 open open jordanmay18fr1 inherit 278 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay18fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay18fr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1199 Mon, 18 May 2009 23:05:24 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay18fr2.jpg 1199 2009-05-18 23:05:24 2009-05-18 23:05:24 open open jordanmay18fr2 inherit 278 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay18fr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Mona, Napoleon, and me http://francerevisited.com/?p=1202 Mon, 18 May 2009 23:06:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=278 Gary says that Napoleon and I have the same haircut, so here’s a photo of the two us side by side. You be the judge. We got back to Gary’s apartment at around 9 then worked on our two songs, which are definitely coming along. You may have heard that I’m giving a small concert on Thursday, so hopefully I’ll be ready by then. I then rehearsed one of my old songs while Gary made dinner. Gary tells me that people often ask him if he cooks since he writes a lot about food and restaurants. Well, this evening he made an excellent pasta and broccoli dish. I’m not normally a broccoli fan but this time I must say that I enjoyed it.]]> 1202 2009-05-18 23:06:49 2009-05-18 23:06:49 open open mona-napoleon-and-me publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last jordanmay19fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=284 Tue, 19 May 2009 23:27:39 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay19fr1.jpg 284 2009-05-19 23:27:39 2009-05-19 23:27:39 open open jordanmay19fr1 inherit 286 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay19fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay19fr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1203 Tue, 19 May 2009 23:28:09 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay19fr2.jpg 1203 2009-05-19 23:28:09 2009-05-19 23:28:09 open open jordanmay19fr2 inherit 286 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay19fr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay19fr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1204 Tue, 19 May 2009 23:29:06 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay19fr3.jpg 1204 2009-05-19 23:29:06 2009-05-19 23:29:06 open open jordanmay19fr3 inherit 286 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay19fr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Croissants, the Orsay Museum, and a vet with a turtle http://francerevisited.com/?p=1207 Tue, 19 May 2009 23:32:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=286 The day started off with the best croissant and pain au chocolat that I’ve ever head. I don’t think I’ll ever be able to eat another croissant back home in Israel because it can’t compare. Fortified by breakfast, I took the metro to the Musée d’Orsay. What an amazing museum! I spent 3-4 hours there. So much to soak in: the artists, the techniques, the furniture, the space of the museum. I would like to have gone to the Rodin Museum afterwards but by the time I left it was already 6pm. Anyway, I saw some great Rodins in the Orsay. Back at Gary’s we rehearsed four songs for Thursday’s concert. We haven’t yet memorized all the lyrics, and unfortunately Gary’s printer is broken so we can’t print them out, but we still another day and a half to get ready. We met Jean-Francois Quinton, a famous French veterinarian, for a drink. He used to be the vet for Gary’s cat Moumoon but he gave up cats and dogs a few years ago and became a specialist in exotic animals. He just finished writing a book about rabbits and ferrets and other pets I can’t imagine having. (I’m a dog person.) Here I am with Jean-Francois and a turtle he’s trying to nurse back to health. Gary, Jean-Francois, and I went out for really good pizza, much better than I’ve ever had in Israel. And the apple pie (tarte tatin) for dessert was excellent. Below, me and pizza, left, me and Gary, right. Afterward we went to a place called Guiness Tavern to listen to a band. I had a Guiness. We then walked home by way of rue Saint Denis. A few women in very short skirts and high boots tried to talk to me. I don’t speak French but I think I understood. Bonne nuit, good night, lyla tov.]]> 1207 2009-05-19 23:32:13 2009-05-19 23:32:13 open open croissants-the-orsay-museum-and-a-famous-vet publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last jordanmay20fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1211 Wed, 20 May 2009 23:51:29 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay20fr1.jpg 1211 2009-05-20 23:51:29 2009-05-20 23:51:29 open open jordanmay20fr1 inherit 294 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay20fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay20fr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1212 Wed, 20 May 2009 23:52:00 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay20fr2.jpg 1212 2009-05-20 23:52:00 2009-05-20 23:52:00 open open jordanmay20fr2 inherit 294 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay20fr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay20fr21 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1215 Wed, 20 May 2009 23:55:35 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay20fr21.jpg 1215 2009-05-20 23:55:35 2009-05-20 23:55:35 open open jordanmay20fr21 inherit 294 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay20fr21.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata What were those ladies talking about? http://francerevisited.com/?p=1217 Wed, 20 May 2009 23:56:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=294 I walked along the crowded streets at the top of the hill. The only annoying part was when I was going up and down the hill being harassed by guys trying to put string bracelets on my wrist. Beware! They really get right into your face, so have to practically yell at them to get them to back off. I walked along the boulevard over to the Moulin Rouge. There were lots of sex shops along the way, and on the side streets were some lovely ladies who wanted me to stop to have a chat with them. It’s frustrating that I don’t speak French because I didn’t understand what they were saying, but I did understand a few of them mentioning something about euros. I never get such attention when I walk down the street in Jerusalem. Continuing my Paris food tour, Gary and I went to the Belleville area for Vietnamese food. That’s the restaurant in the picture above. Moumoon always greets us at the door when we get back to the apartment. He’s an amazing cat. Here’s a picture of him out for a night walk in the stairwell of the apartment building. We practiced our repertoire when we got back. Concert tomorrow.]]> 1217 2009-05-20 23:56:40 2009-05-20 23:56:40 open open what-were-those-ladies-talking-about publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last jordanmay21fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1218 Thu, 21 May 2009 22:50:59 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay21fr1.jpg 1218 2009-05-21 22:50:59 2009-05-21 22:50:59 open open jordanmay21fr1 inherit 300 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay21fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay21fr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1219 Thu, 21 May 2009 22:51:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay21fr2.jpg 1219 2009-05-21 22:51:30 2009-05-21 22:51:30 open open jordanmay21fr2 inherit 300 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay21fr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay21fr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1220 Thu, 21 May 2009 22:52:01 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay21fr3.jpg 1220 2009-05-21 22:52:01 2009-05-21 22:52:01 open open jordanmay21fr3 inherit 300 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay21fr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay21fr11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1223 Thu, 21 May 2009 23:01:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay21fr11.jpg 1223 2009-05-21 23:01:44 2009-05-21 23:01:44 open open jordanmay21fr11 inherit 300 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay21fr11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Jordan Zell + Gary Lee Kraut in concert http://francerevisited.com/?p=1225 Thu, 21 May 2009 23:02:50 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=300 Today is my last full day in Paris since I’ll be leaving tomorrow afternoon for London. Gary and I spent a good deal of the day preparing for the evening concert: rehearsing, shopping, cleaning the apartment. We’d bought a lot of cheese and I mistakenly put the soap into the refrigerator thinking that it was some of the cheese. That’s the soap at left on the top shelf in the picture. You have to admit it looks like cheese, doesn’t it? I thought we’d only have a few people for the concert but 12 of Gary’s friends showed up, a fairly good number considering that our concert was only announced a few days ago and it’s a holiday today in France. We were originally thinking of having the concert by the canal, which would have had the advantage of attracting people passing by, but I wanted to do it inside because I thought it would be hard to hear the music outside without an amp. I was surprised to hear that one of our guests, Pavlos, used to be very friendly with Cat Stevens in the early ‘70s. He told the story of how he would go listen to him in music bars in London back then. Pavlos used to own a restaurant, which used to attract lots of musicians and actors, so it’s too bad that he closed it last year. He’s planning on opening a new one soon and made me a very kind offer to play there when I’m in Paris again. Yesterday I bought two “I love Paris” t-shirts that I intended to bring back home as gifts but we decided to wear them for the concert. I’m still planning on giving them as gifts, but they’ll have to be washed first. We performed six songs. We started off with “The T-Shirt Song,” which I’m sure many of you have already heard on this website or on Youtube. Gary sang that one. I then sang my song “Don’t You Worry.” You can hear an arranged version of it on Youtube. The quality of the video isn’t too good but the arrangement is pretty good. I then sang “Russian Girl,” which Gary and I wrote together. After that we took a ten minute break. When we resumed I sang another of my original songs, “Just a Feeling,” which is alson on Youtube. This was followed by “No Cheesy Love Song,” which Gary wrote this week when I told him I had the start of a melody but didn’t know what to do with it. I told him that I thought it should be a love song but he said that I’d written enough love songs for now, so he wrote lyrics about not wanting to write about love but about something else that I don’t want to say here. I agreed to play it on the condition that I didn’t have to sing since I thought it was a bit too vulgar. (Not vulgar, Gary says, just a little racy.) Luckily, the pretty blond girl sitting next to Gary when he sang it didn’t slap him when he sang some lines to her in French. We ended the concert with “On a Train from Paris to Rome,” another song Gary and I collaborated on this past week. It’s about a guy who meets a French girl on a train but he doesn’t speak French and she doesn’t speak English. We hope one day to make it into a France Revisited video. All in all, we got a good response even though many our guests didn’t understand the lyrics, which was a good thing for “No Cheesy Love Song.” They seemed to get into the melodies and singing. They requested “The T-Shirt Song” and “Don’t You Worry” for encores, which we happily performed. After our guests left, I thought about hitting the town for one last time but decided I’d rather stay in and pack my suitcase for my trip to London tomorrow.]]> 1225 2009-05-21 23:02:50 2009-05-21 23:02:50 open open jordan-zell-gary-lee-kraut-in-concert publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last jordanmay22fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1227 Fri, 22 May 2009 12:29:32 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay22fr1.jpg 1227 2009-05-22 12:29:32 2009-05-22 12:29:32 open open jordanmay22fr1 inherit 309 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay22fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay22fr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1228 Fri, 22 May 2009 12:30:20 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay22fr2.jpg 1228 2009-05-22 12:30:20 2009-05-22 12:30:20 open open jordanmay22fr2 inherit 309 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay22fr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay22fr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1229 Fri, 22 May 2009 12:31:22 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay22fr3.jpg 1229 2009-05-22 12:31:22 2009-05-22 12:31:22 open open jordanmay22fr3 inherit 309 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay22fr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata jordanmay22fr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1230 Fri, 22 May 2009 12:31:52 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay22fr4.jpg 1230 2009-05-22 12:31:52 2009-05-22 12:31:52 open open jordanmay22fr4 inherit 309 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/jordanmay22fr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Au revoir Paris, I'm going to miss you! http://francerevisited.com/?p=1235 Fri, 22 May 2009 12:36:22 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=309 I’m leaving today and it’s the first bright sunny day of the past week. Gary and I went for an au-revoir bike ride up the canal. When we got back and I finished packing, Gary asked me to list some of the things that I’ll miss about Paris. Here are just a few: -The bread and croissants -The women (photo below left) -The beauty of the city -Moumoon (photo below right), -The liveliness of the place -Writing new songs -Did I mention the women? -And hanging out with Gary Here’s one last picture of me before leaving Paris on the Eurostar for London, where I’ll be staying for the next five days before going home. I hope you’ve enjoyed my blog from Paris. All the best to future guest bloggers on France Revisited. It’s a great gig if you can get it. With kisses from Paris, Jordan P.S. Don’t forget to keep up with my new songs as they develop. Just do a youtube or myspace search for Jordan Zell and you’ll find me.]]> 1235 2009-05-22 12:36:22 2009-05-22 12:36:22 open open aurevoir-paris-im-going-to-miss-you publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 27 lgirasol@earthlink.net http://islandgirl4ever2.blogspot.com 90.46.104.82 2009-06-03 21:55:50 2009-06-03 21:55:50 1 0 0 poissyfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=407 Mon, 25 May 2009 00:20:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr1.jpg 407 2009-05-25 00:20:47 2009-05-25 00:20:47 open open poissyfr1 inherit 408 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poissyfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=409 Mon, 25 May 2009 00:21:54 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr2.jpg 409 2009-05-25 00:21:54 2009-05-25 00:21:54 open open poissyfr2 inherit 408 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poissyfr11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=410 Mon, 25 May 2009 00:22:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr11.jpg 410 2009-05-25 00:22:49 2009-05-25 00:22:49 open open poissyfr11 inherit 408 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poissyfr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=411 Mon, 25 May 2009 00:23:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr3.jpg 411 2009-05-25 00:23:30 2009-05-25 00:23:30 open open poissyfr3 inherit 408 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poissyfr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=412 Mon, 25 May 2009 00:24:03 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr4.jpg 412 2009-05-25 00:24:03 2009-05-25 00:24:03 open open poissyfr4 inherit 408 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poissyfr5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=413 Mon, 25 May 2009 00:24:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr5.jpg 413 2009-05-25 00:24:47 2009-05-25 00:24:47 open open poissyfr5 inherit 408 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poissyfr6 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=414 Mon, 25 May 2009 00:25:14 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr6.jpg 414 2009-05-25 00:25:14 2009-05-25 00:25:14 open open poissyfr6 inherit 408 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr6.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poissyfr7 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=415 Mon, 25 May 2009 00:25:45 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr7.jpg 415 2009-05-25 00:25:45 2009-05-25 00:25:45 open open poissyfr7 inherit 408 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr7.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poissyfr8 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=416 Mon, 25 May 2009 00:26:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr8.jpg 416 2009-05-25 00:26:16 2009-05-25 00:26:16 open open poissyfr8 inherit 408 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr8.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Following in Annabel Simms' footsteps (I saw a magpie there) http://francerevisited.com/?p=408 Mon, 25 May 2009 00:30:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=408 Here, for example, is one of my favorite passages from a description of the village of Andrésy: “… continue along the river as far as the Rue de Trélan. There is a little jetty with an electric bell to the right which you press to summon the small speedboat opposite…There is a little riverside garden in which you can eat outside in the summer (where I saw a red squirrel) and the tiled floor, lace curtains framing the river and the old-fashioned oak furniture make for a cosy retreat inside.” I just love that red squirrel that scampered into the text. I’ll discuss the quirks of the text further in the actual review to appear next month. I’m using today’s blog not to review but to illustrate the visit outlined by Ms. Simms that I more or less faithfully followed—quite easily, I should add, thanks to the book’s excellent maps and the author’s unwavering eye for detail. I did not, however, enter the various museums that she mentioned along the way, though I did stop to photograph the cat, above left, near the entrance to Poissy’s Toy Museum (where I saw a magpie). The fact that the museum is across the street from a major prison for hardened criminals tells you that you are indeed well of the beaten track in these parts. The spire of Collégiale Notre Dame, the church were King Louis IX was baptized in 1214 (remnants of the baptismal font are there), appears in the photo above with the cat. Here below is a colorful Renaissance “Entombment of Christ” found in that church. I made a detour from Ms. Simms’ outline to buy a sandwich in town then returned to her trail to visit the Villa Savoye, photo right, designed by Le Corbusier in 1929. To the contemporary eye the villa resembles a generic office building near a strip mall, but when it was completed in the early 1930s it was a wondrous example of chic avant-garde eurotrash that few people would have wanted to live in. It’s in a little park across the street from a low-income housing project. I already knew how detail-oriented Ms. Simms is from reading the book, but I realized when following her route that in addition to wanting to say “I was here” she also wants to encourage readers to look for details, whether, when heading downstream to Villennes, you’re standing on a bridge overlooking a branch of the Seine (below left) or “strolling down a private, peaceful and pretty, [that] leads past houses whose gardens stretch to the water’s edge” (below right) or admiring a hedge of firethorns in full bloom (having asked a local what they are then looked up the translation back home) or sitting in front of “the striking 11th-century church.” A mile further upstream, at Médan, there’s another church, and a small private chateau, and the house that Zola bought in 1878 and where he lived “for about eight months of the year until his death 24 years later.” You can then “make a nostalgic detour to reach the river by turning left” and have a seat by the river at Plaisirs d’Eté, “the only source of food and drink in Médan [which] is open sporadically, depending on the whim of the owners, a retired couple.” I don’t know if I’d call the detour nostalgic, but it was certainly delightful, especially since the retired couple’s whim to open coincided with my own to go. An enjoyable day of discovery indeed! I’m looking forward to following in Ms. Simms’ footsteps in other town and villages where I’d never thought of setting foot. Click here for my complete review of Annabel Simms' "An Hour From Paris." Stay informed and entertained by all new posts on France Revisited, the magazine for savvy readers and curious travelers, by receiving the free France Revisited Newsletter. Click here to sign up.]]> 408 2009-05-25 00:30:13 2009-05-25 00:30:13 open open following-in-annabel-simms-footsteps-i-saw-a-magpie-there publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last poissyfr51 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=430 Mon, 25 May 2009 00:50:34 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr51.jpg 430 2009-05-25 00:50:34 2009-05-25 00:50:34 open open poissyfr51 inherit 408 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/poissyfr51.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata normandyfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=433 Mon, 08 Jun 2009 21:54:45 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr1.jpg 433 2009-06-08 21:54:45 2009-06-08 21:54:45 open open normandyfr1 inherit 432 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata normandyfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=434 Mon, 08 Jun 2009 21:55:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr2.jpg 434 2009-06-08 21:55:30 2009-06-08 21:55:30 open open normandyfr2 inherit 432 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata normandyfr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=435 Mon, 08 Jun 2009 21:55:58 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr3.jpg 435 2009-06-08 21:55:58 2009-06-08 21:55:58 open open normandyfr3 inherit 432 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata normandyfr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=436 Mon, 08 Jun 2009 21:56:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr4.jpg 436 2009-06-08 21:56:26 2009-06-08 21:56:26 open open normandyfr4 inherit 432 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr4.jpg _wp_attached_file 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http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr10.jpg 443 2009-06-08 21:59:44 2009-06-08 21:59:44 open open normandyfr10 inherit 432 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr10.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata normandyfr11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=444 Mon, 08 Jun 2009 22:00:09 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr11.jpg 444 2009-06-08 22:00:09 2009-06-08 22:00:09 open open normandyfr11 inherit 432 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata normandyfr12 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=445 Mon, 08 Jun 2009 22:00:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr12.jpg 445 2009-06-08 22:00:37 2009-06-08 22:00:37 open open normandyfr12 inherit 432 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr12.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata normandyfr13 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=446 Mon, 08 Jun 2009 22:01:11 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr13.jpg 446 2009-06-08 22:01:11 2009-06-08 22:01:11 open open normandyfr13 inherit 432 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr13.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata normandyfr14 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=447 Mon, 08 Jun 2009 22:01:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr14.jpg 447 2009-06-08 22:01:37 2009-06-08 22:01:37 open open normandyfr14 inherit 432 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr14.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata normandyfr15 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=448 Mon, 08 Jun 2009 22:02:05 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr15.jpg 448 2009-06-08 22:02:05 2009-06-08 22:02:05 open open normandyfr15 inherit 432 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr15.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata normandyfr16 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=449 Mon, 08 Jun 2009 22:02:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr16.jpg 449 2009-06-08 22:02:38 2009-06-08 22:02:38 open open normandyfr16 inherit 432 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/normandyfr16.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata A photo log of explorations in the D-Day Landing Zone in Normandy http://francerevisited.com/?p=432 Mon, 08 Jun 2009 22:07:52 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=432 The road to Normandy from Paris more or less follows the Seine downstream towards the English Channel. After Giverny I backtracked upstream along the river to visit La Roche Guyon. I planned it that way because if visiting both it’s advisable to arrive early at Giverny. Furthermore, La Roche Guyon makes for a better lunch stop between the two. La Roche Guyon naturally rings far fewer bells than Giverny, but it’s an interesting stop for a WWII tour because the chateau in the photo below left is where German Field Marshall Rommel set up his headquarters when he was appointed by Hitler to oversee and reinforce defenses along the Atlantic Wall. Many of the Landing sights that you’ll see in Normandy were personally inspected by Rommel from January to May 1944. The chateau of La Roche Guyon has a 1000-year history that I won’t go into here. The main marks from Rommel’s period are the casements where ammunition was kept, which now present an exhibit about that period. Otherwise, the chateau is a wonderful mishmash of periods with a beautiful view over the Seine. I typically think of Giverny as a pain for a daytrip on its own from Paris, but I do like the idea of a day combining Giverny with La Roche Guyon, though it’s necessary to have a car to do so or good biking legs from Vernon. La Roche Guyon is a pretty Seine-side town. The photo below right is a view upstream from the town. Approaching the D-Day sights from the east, i.e. with the British and Canadian Landing Beaches, the first stop is Pegasus Bridge, which was rapidly taken by British airborne troops arriving in three gliders on the night of June 5-6, 1944. The bridge was taken in order to cut off German troops—and especially tanks—that might arrive from further east once the landing started and to prevent them from crossing the Orne River. The bridge that now goes over the Orne (below left) is a higher tech replica of the original bridge, which has been moved onto the grounds of the Pegasus Memorial Museum a few hundred yards away, which tells about the British airborne landing. The Merville Battery was also captured by British airborne troops arriving by parachute and glider on the night of June 5-6, 1944. This was a major German battery between the coast and the right bank of the Orne whose guns were capable of firing on Sword Beach, the easternmost of the Landing Beaches. I won’t tell here the heroic and bloody story of how it was taken, but I will say that after reading about it and visiting the site several times before I was fortunate to hear first-hand last week when I met Alexander Taylor, who landed on a glider that night. The Landing Zone is worth a visit at any time of year, but those who visit in the days surrounding June 6 may well encounter visiting some of the men who took part in the landing. During the 20 or times that I’ve visited the Landing Zone, beginning in 1992, I’ve had the opportunity to speak with visiting veterans on various occasions, but this is the first time I actually stood at the very spot where a man landed on D-Day and had him describe the event to me as he lived them. When I asked him his name also told me his dog tag number, 22543202. Here is Alexander Taylor, 22543202 standing tall at the Merville Battery, which he helped capture and render unusable at the age of 20. I am sorry to say that I gave the Canadians short shift on this visit. Though I did stop at Juno Beach (where pit bulls and rottweilers are not allowed, I note in case you were planning on traveling with one), I didn’t visit the June Beach Center, Canada’s Second World War museum, which is by the beach at Courseulles-sur-Mer. Nor did I visit the Canadian Cemetery, which is a few miles inland at Riviers. Apologies to my Canadian readers. If anyone has a photo of the Canadian Cemetery I would like to post it here. Arromanches is the town at the center of Gold Beach. It was here that the British built the artificial harbor known as a Mulberry. Some remnants of the harbor still remain just offshore. (The photo below, with clouds, was one that I took last year on June 6.) The D-Day Museum at Arromanches shows how the harbor was built and how it operated, along with other displays about the landing and the various nationalities that took part. The only German battery along this coast with its canons still visible are those at Longues-sur-Mer. The photo below is one of four 155mm gun emplacements at Longues that were a danger to the landing of British troops at Gold Beach as they could fire up to 12 miles. Visiting the complex you’ll also see the position of its command center by the cliff and other concrete elements of the Atlantic Wall. Three of the four canons were put out of commission by naval fire within the first hour of the landing, but one was occasionally operational until about 5 p.m. The garrison here of 184 Germans surrendered to the British the following day. Americans tend to visit only the American Cemetery but I think it’s important to visit those of other nationalities so as to have a sense not only of their loss and sacrifice but of their approach to their war dead. Here’s a section of the British Cemetery at Bayeux. The American connection with Normandy begins with D-Day, but the British connection goes back much further, beginning with William the Conqueror, Duke of Normandy, who took the crown of England after the Battle of Hastings in 1066. William is buried at the Abbaye aux Hommes (Men’s Abbey) at Caen. The tapestry was made in about 1080 to be hung during Christmastime in the Cathedral of Bayeux. Inside the cathedral a plaque honors British troops who fought in the WWI. In visiting the American sector, i.e. Utah and Omaha Beaches and related sights, I generally recommend starting out to Utah Beach, the westernmost beach, then visiting your way back towards Omaha rather than the other way around. On the way to Utah you might first stop, as I did, at the German Cemetery by the village of La Cambe. This cemetery contains the largest number of dead of all of the cemeteries in the region, over 21,000, including 207 unknown soldiers buried beneath the mound that dominates the cemetery. I neglected to take any pictures at Utah Beach but here are pictures of the nearby village of Sainte-Mère-du-Mont, right, where men and women were playing soldier and parading around with their wartime jeeps. You’ll come across these collectors (I suppose that’s the word for them) at any time of year but especially around the anniversary of D-Day. Hundreds were gathering for the 65th anniversary this weekend. Few of them are American or British. I mostly heard French and Dutch last week. I was in a little bar in Port-en-Bessin one evening when a jeep sporting a U.S. flag parked right out front. Out popped a big man with a long gray beard and a short plump women, both dressed in U.S. army uniforms, looking like Mr. and Mrs. Claus on a Bob Hope special. They entered the bar and the man demanded beer. That’s all he said, “Beer,” and he held one hand about 18 inches above the other to show that he wanted it big. The bartender asked where he was from. He said, “Czechoslovakia,” and he meant it. The photo bottom right is of Sainte-Mère-Eglise, the town taken by American airborne troops on the night of June 5-6 and securing the bridges and roads of the western edge of the Landing area. The parachute hanging from the steeple is a wink to paratrooper John Steele who got stuck there. The Airborne Museum at Sainte-Mère-Eglise is quite good and has an excellent introductory film to both the overall landing operation and the specific events in and around Sainte-Mère-Eglise.  The guns at Pointe du Hoc were a danger for the landing at the two American beaches, Utah and Omaha, and even though the Rangers who climbed the cliff discovered to their surprise that the guns had been moved inland and weren’t operational, the site is nevertheless one of the most dramatic of those in the Landing Zone. In addition to the drama of the events of June 6-8, 1944 that took place here as the Rangers took and held the battery, the site also reveals the construction and workings of the German battery complex and the extent to which it was bombed. The bomb craters here, unlike most craters elsewhere along the coast, have not been filled in. The top photo below shows the Pointe du Hoc and the cliff that the Rangers scaled. The bottom photo shows some of the bombed out landscape. The American Cemetery is about 15 minutes east along the coast from Pointe du Hoc. The cemetery overlooks Omaha Beach, the bloodiest of the five Landing Beaches. I’ll be writing about Omaha Beach, the cemetery, and all else that’s mentioned above in a separate article. For now I just point out the three images below: a view of the cemetery (top left), the memorial to American youth rising from the waves (right), and Omaha Beach (bottom left). As noted above regarding Alexander Taylor, 22543202, encountering men and women somehow related to the events of the war—whether veterans, their children, Normans who lived through it or their children—is enormously enriching in exploring this zone. Below is a photo of Bernard Lebrec, whose apple farm produces the three main alcoholic beverages produced in the department of Calvados: cidre, pommeau, brandy. His farm, originally purchased prior to the war by his grandfather, is located in Englesqueville la Percèe, a village between Pointe du Hoc and the American Cemetery. You might stop in for a tasting, and if you do so be sure to inquire into the wartime history of the farm. As with many of the large farmhouses along the coast, that of Mr. Lebrec’s grandfather’s was requisitioned by the Germans during the war. Then, after the landing, it was occupied by the Americans. The American 147th Engineer Combat Battalion made it their headquarters and built an airstrip in the family’s apple orchard in the early days of the Invasion of Normandy. I photographed Mr. Lebrec below standing in front of the monument erected on his property in honor of the 147th. So ends my photo log from the Landing Zone. More detailed articles will follow on France Revisited’s France/Northwest section this month.]]> 432 2009-06-08 22:07:52 2009-06-08 22:07:52 open open a-photo-log-of-explorations-in-the-d-day-landing-zone-in-normandy publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last Memories of Normandy 10 years on http://francerevisited.com/?p=1241 Thu, 11 Jun 2009 13:07:50 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=325 Images on TV of the commemoration ceremonies for the 65th anniversary of the D-Day landing inspired Linda Cassidy, an adventurous real estate broker in the Palm Beach, Florida area to send memories of a trip to Normandy ten years ago. It may sound strange for two families from sunny Florida to head north and across the ocean to visit beaches, but that’s exactly and unforgettably what we did ten years ago this spring. After four days in Paris, we hit the road. Three children, four adults, three Game Boys, too much luggage, liters of bottled water, lots of chocolate chip cookies, guidebooks, maps, an a rented van (exchanged at the rental agency for an impractical sporty car selected by the men) = Road Trip, French style. We knew we were headed for trouble when I was the designated linguist, but off we were for adventure in Normandy. After driving from Paris to an overnight in Honfleur (where we had to tear our hubbies away from the cafes), we headed toward our ultimate objective of Landing Beaches. We landed very French rooms at the Hotel Grand Luxembourg in Bayeux—ten years on my daughter, now 20, has fond memories of her blue toile room. Fortified with French McDonald’s we set off for the Bayeux Cathedral and Tapestry. Thinking about the latter reminds me that I still haven’t even started the needlepoint kit I bought in the tapestry gift shop. While buying it I spotted a woman wearing white tennis shoes, an accessory that immediately signaled an American and more specifically a fellow Floridian. Turns out she was chaperoning a tour group from a town near mine. So much for international encounters! Then on to the Invasion of Normandy Museum in Bayeux, where we became totally engrossed (not just the guys) and emotionally wrenched (including the guys) reading letters from kids on both sides of the conflict made us all wipe our eyes. The adults bought books (in addition to my needlepoint kit) and the kids bought crickets, those clickers used by the Allied Forces to communicate outside by code. The crickets may have been a big hit back in the classroom, but they had to be confiscated in the car as we drove through the countryside to the Landing Beaches. [caption id="attachment_327" align="alignleft" width="288" caption="Linda's daughter Catherine-Anne by a bunker at Pointe du Hoc, Normandy, 1999."]Linda's daughter Catherine-Anne at a bunker at Pointe du Hoc, 1999.[/caption] The American Cemetery, overlooking Omaha Beach, was our first D-Day stop. Empty—what a feeling to be there with graves sweeping away—a sea of white monuments, crosses and stars. It takes a beat to transfer them to boys that didn’t make it back to their homes. We realized we were seven beating hearts among all those prematurely stilled for Freedom. There were few visitors that day, which gave us time and space to feel a kinship and deep appreciation. That afternoon we saw the beaches and bunkers. We lunched at Omaha in a lovely beach side café—which in itself seemed contradictory until we realized that this is why it all happened, so that we could worry about nothing more here than the resident cat biting a child’s finger (before curling up on its lap for the duration of the lunch) and so that the kids could play with their game players. We signed the guest book and saw that the signatures right above ours were those of a couple who live about a mile from us in Florida.]]> 1241 2009-06-11 13:07:50 2009-06-11 13:07:50 open open memories-of-normandy-10-years-on publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last lcassidy-normandyfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1242 Thu, 11 Jun 2009 13:16:45 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/lcassidy-normandyfr.jpg 1242 2009-06-11 13:16:45 2009-06-11 13:16:45 open open lcassidy-normandyfr inherit 1241 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/lcassidy-normandyfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata milwaukeefr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1247 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 20:58:31 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/milwaukeefr1.jpg 1247 2009-06-16 20:58:31 2009-06-16 20:58:31 open open milwaukeefr1 inherit 0 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/milwaukeefr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata milwaukeefr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1248 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 21:05:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/milwaukeefr2.jpg 1248 2009-06-16 21:05:26 2009-06-16 21:05:26 open open milwaukeefr2 inherit 0 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/milwaukeefr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata milwaukeefr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1249 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 21:10:09 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/milwaukeefr3.jpg 1249 2009-06-16 21:10:09 2009-06-16 21:10:09 open open milwaukeefr3 inherit 0 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/milwaukeefr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata fullerfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=463 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 22:37:59 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/fullerfr1.jpg 463 2009-06-16 22:37:59 2009-06-16 22:37:59 open open fullerfr1 inherit 462 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/fullerfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata fullerfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=464 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 22:38:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/fullerfr2.jpg 464 2009-06-16 22:38:28 2009-06-16 22:38:28 open open fullerfr2 inherit 462 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/fullerfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata fullerfr11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=466 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 22:42:15 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/fullerfr11.jpg 466 2009-06-16 22:42:15 2009-06-16 22:42:15 open open fullerfr11 inherit 462 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/fullerfr11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata A cheese picnic near Utah Beach http://francerevisited.com/?p=462 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 22:49:11 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=462 I was visiting the Landing Zone then with Tom and Cathy Fuller of Atlanta, Georgia. We stopped one afternoon for a picnic of the four cheeses and bread and water along a wall near Ravenoville, a few miles north of Utah Beach. Actually, Utah Beach should have been closer to here but on D-Day the first waves of troops ended up landing about a mile south from the intended site. Despite the confusion that ensued, that was actually to the American’s advantage since German artillery pieces were positioned just a couple miles from our picnic wall. The camping car in the photo was not ours. Imagine it’s been Photoshopped out of the image to have a sense of how desolate this part of Normandy can feel outside of summer. If you followed that coast about for about 35 miles you’d get to Cherbourg. Here I am, same place, same cheese, same picnic. If you Photoshopped me out of the image you’d have a good sense of how desolate the beach is, even in summer. You can see how far out the tide goes, though this isn’t even low tide. The first landing craft arrived at Utah Beach at 6:30 a.m., at low tide, on D-Day. The major German battery at Saint Martin de Vierville that would have posed great danger to landing operations at Utah had been destroyed by sunrise. The other German positions along the landing site were silenced or surrendered by 9 a.m. Of the 20,000 Americans who landed that day 197 were killed in action and 60 missing, making this the least bloody of the five Landing Beaches. It was also the most successful in terms of reaching and maintaining the day’s objectives. I mentioned in my last blog post that it's unusual to have a four-day stretch of blue sky as appears in those photos. I wish such sunny weather on your own visit should you come to Normandy, but as a precaution it’s better to dress for the sky that’s in these two photos and for the wind that you can imagine in the photo of those picnickers with hair. The black line you see just offshore are part of a mussel farm. Closer to Utah Beach there’s an oyster park. Utah Beach is actually well known for its oysters. In addition to its cheese Normandy is also a major producer of oysters. I’ll have to go back for an oyster picnic sometime. Anyone want to join me? To learn more (in French) about Norman oysters click here.]]> 462 2009-06-16 22:49:11 2009-06-16 22:49:11 open open a-cheese-picnic-near-utah-beach publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 9 564Delsoin@gmail.com http://www.squidoo.com/cheap-holliday-bulgaria 58.8.143.156 2010-10-12 06:44:00 2010-10-12 06:44:00 0 0 0 savoyflagfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1250 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 09:59:29 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/savoyflagfr.jpg 1250 2009-06-29 09:59:29 2009-06-29 09:59:29 open open savoyflagfr inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/savoyflagfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata cynthiafr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1251 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 10:01:07 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/cynthiafr2.jpg 1251 2009-06-29 10:01:07 2009-06-29 10:01:07 open open cynthiafr2 inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/cynthiafr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata cynthiafr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1252 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 10:02:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/cynthiafr1.jpg 1252 2009-06-29 10:02:33 2009-06-29 10:02:33 open open cynthiafr1 inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/cynthiafr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata cynthiafr21 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1253 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 10:07:59 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/cynthiafr21.jpg 1253 2009-06-29 10:07:59 2009-06-29 10:07:59 open open cynthiafr21 inherit 342 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/cynthiafr21.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Cynthia Caughey in Chambéry misses Los Angeles... or not http://francerevisited.com/?p=1256 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 10:10:12 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=342 Unlike many Americans who visit France, Cynthia Caughey never dreamed of actually living here. In fact, Cynthia is (or at least was) an Italophile; she studied in Italy as a college student, vacationed there for 20 years, and lived there from 1998-2000. But as fate would have it, in 2005 she fell in love with a Frenchman whom she met on a train in Provence. After 2½ years of a long distance relationship between her home in Los Angeles and Bernard’s home in Chambery, capital of the Alpine Savoy region, she sold her house, ended her successful consulting business, packed up her cats, and, at the ripe age of 49, started to call France home. Cathy and Bernard got married on April 25. France Revisited welcomes Cynthia as a new Guest Blogger. She’ll be contributing to this page occasional blogs and videos about her thoughts, explorations, and adventures in Savoy and beyond. For more regular updates about Cynthia’s life in France see her American-in-France blog. To introduce readers of France Revisited to Cynthia we asked her to make a list of 10 things she misses about Los Angeles, 10 things she doesn’t miss about Los Angeles, and 10 things she loves about Chambery. Take it away, Cynthia. 10 Things I Miss about Los Angeles 1. California Wine. 2. Great ethnic food restaurants (instead of pretend ethnic food restaurants that cater to the French palette, i.e., no taste or spice). 3. Sunshine year-round. 4. Customer service. 5. Being able to return something to a store because the color is wrong rather than just because it has a major defect (and even then being interrogated and treated like a huge liar and scam artist). [caption id="attachment_346" align="alignright" width="216" caption="Cynthia and Bernard"]Cynthia and Bernard[/caption] 6. Rooms that aren’t painted in orange or some version thereof. 7. Public bathrooms that aren't co-ed (I still get startled when coming out of a toilet stall and running into a man at the sink). 8. American prices at the stores and restaurants, and a huge variety of shopping options. 9. Stylish clothes for women who wear sizes larger than 8. 10. English!!!                                      10 Things I Don't Miss about Los Angeles 1. 50 hour work weeks with only 2 weeks of vacation per year. 2. Pollution. 3. “Parking lot, stop and go, rude, aggressive, crazy drivers” traffic. 4. The eternal youth and perfect body culture. 5. The absence of universal health care and the presence of greedy medical insurance companies. 6. The culture of workaholism. 7. The dating scene, including my past boyfriends. 8. A “survival of the fittest” society where the middle class carries the weight and the tax laws benefit the rich. 9. A landscape of buildings, cars and concrete. 10. The dearth of public transportation. [caption id="attachment_343" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="View from the top of the Castle of Chambéry: The flag of Savoy and the foothills of the Alps. Photo GLK."]View from the top of the Castle of Chambéry: The flag of Savoy and the foothills of the Alps. Photo GLK.[/caption] 10 Things I Love about Living in Chambery 1. Gorgeous landscapes. 2. Great motorcycling routes. 3. Trains, buses, and how “walkable” the town is. 4. The slow pace in which people go through their daily lives. 5. The summer concerts and festivals. 6. Saturday morning outdoor market. 7. Fresh foods, fresh produce, homemade cooking. 8. The view of the French Alps from our balcony. 9. The French people’s love of music and singing. 10. Traveling throughout the area and finding the most amazing and unexpected surprises on almost every trip out.]]> 1256 2009-06-29 10:10:12 2009-06-29 10:10:12 open open cynthia-caughey-in-chambery-misses-los-angeles-or-not publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 28 dbmackie@austin.rr.com 66.69.231.149 2009-07-01 17:07:07 2009-07-01 17:07:07 1 0 0 29 cynthiacaughey@yahoo.com http://www.american-in-france.com 86.196.178.238 2009-07-06 13:55:04 2009-07-06 13:55:04 1 0 0 30 francerevisited@aol.com http://www.francerevisited.com 88.136.18.184 2009-07-07 22:48:17 2009-07-07 22:48:17 1 0 0 31 cynthiacaughey@hotmail.com http://www.american-in-france.com 91.172.59.57 2009-07-14 07:46:30 2009-07-14 07:46:30 1 0 0 pigeonsfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=474 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 23:36:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr1.jpg 474 2009-06-29 23:36:41 2009-06-29 23:36:41 open open pigeonsfr1 inherit 473 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata pigeonsfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=475 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 23:43:07 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr2.jpg 475 2009-06-29 23:43:07 2009-06-29 23:43:07 open open pigeonsfr2 inherit 473 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata pigeonsfr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=476 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 23:45:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr3.jpg 476 2009-06-29 23:45:47 2009-06-29 23:45:47 open open pigeonsfr3 inherit 473 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata pigeonsfr21 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=478 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 23:51:51 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr21.jpg 478 2009-06-29 23:51:51 2009-06-29 23:51:51 open open pigeonsfr21 inherit 473 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr21.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata pigeonsfr22 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=479 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 23:52:34 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr22.jpg 479 2009-06-29 23:52:34 2009-06-29 23:52:34 open open pigeonsfr22 inherit 473 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr22.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata pigeonsfr11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=482 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 23:56:24 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr11.jpg 482 2009-06-29 23:56:24 2009-06-29 23:56:24 open open pigeonsfr11 inherit 473 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pigeonsfr11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Sometimes, when nature calls... http://francerevisited.com/?p=473 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 00:10:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=473 Sometimes, when the weather’s nice and I feel nature calling, I’ll take the RER out of the city, not too far, a half-hour ride from the center of Paris. Actually, it isn't nature calling but a friend of mine who lives out there. He'll pick me up at the station and drive us back to his house, about 15 minutes away.   He has a beautiful backyard, full of all kinds of trees and plants and a vegetable garden and a chicken-n-pigeon coop where he raises birds such as chickens, pheasants, and Texan and Hubbell pigeons.   I like visiting his backyard because I don't have one of my own.   I see lindens from my window but no ginkgoes or beeches or pines, as he does.     I see pigeons, but none like this, none I would want to touch.     Then we’ll have lunch, if possible containing something from the garden, like the zucchini that’s plentiful right now. Oh and those cherries earlier in the month!   And pigeon. No, just kidding, we didn’t eat one of those beautiful pigeons on Sunday. We had rabbit.]]> 473 2009-06-30 00:10:10 2009-06-30 00:10:10 open open sometimes-when-nature-calls publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last Premiere de la Comedie musicale Swinging Life http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=494 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 23:06:19 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/swinglifefr1.jpg 494 2009-07-03 23:06:19 2009-07-03 23:06:19 open open premiere-de-la-comedie-musicale-swinging-life inherit 491 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/swinglifefr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Premiere de la Comedie musicale Swinging Life http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=495 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 23:06:51 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/swinglifefr2.jpg 495 2009-07-03 23:06:51 2009-07-03 23:06:51 open open premiere-de-la-comedie-musicale-swinging-life-2 inherit 491 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/swinglifefr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Swinging in Paris in July http://francerevisited.com/?p=491 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 23:13:45 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=491 Last night I attended Swinging Life, a musical revue of soul, jazz, gospel, and blues songs that have been heard on Broadway, playing through July 31 at the Alhambra, a 600-seat theater in the Canal Saint Martin Quarter. I went to Swinging Life because the PR rep offered me a ticket and because the theater is 300 yards from my apartment, certainly not because I had any expectations of a good show. Paris may have an impressive record of playing adoring host to African-American music and musicians, but it also has an underwhelming reputation when it comes to Broadway. There’s a tendency for small productions, and sometimes large, to try to ride high on great songs without sufficient quality of voices, musicians, acting, or choreography to back them up. Case in point earlier this year, Hair, which set out from January through March to show how meaningful that tale of peace, love, and freedom can be 40+ years down the road, only to reveal how little the producers and the director knew about musical comedy. In 2007 I wrote for a Connecticut theater magazine an article about how national and international theater producers were becoming increasingly tempted by the adventure and finances of bringing Broadway to the City of Lights. Two years later Broadway-sur-Seine—or West End on the Right Bank, if you prefer—is definitely on the up-and-up. Case in point, Swinging LifeSwinging Life is not a Broadway musical per say but rather a four-act assembly of choice soul, jazz, gospel, and blues tunes from various shows (Broadway opening year in parenthesis): Play On (1997), Blues in the Night (1982), The Life (1987), The Color Purple (Broadway, 2005), Smokey Joe’s Café (1995), Dreamgirls (1982). All of the songs are sung here in English with only an occasional line of French dialogue between songs, so the show if fully accessible to non-French-speakers. What surprised me last night was how proficient and professional the show was, especially considering the ticket price: 30€ for 1, 45€ for 2; 15€ for students. Only in the past few years has Paris has truly begun to renew with the tradition of the actor-singer-dancer that is so familiar in the United States and England. With a dearth of opportunities until recently, it’s understandable that there hasn’t been a huge pool of well-rounded talent. Things are apparently swinging in the right direction. Swinging Life may not have Broadway/West End-quality singing-acting-dancing through and through, but its eight performers maintain the rhythm, movement and voice of the show at a consistently good level, with notable performances by Germaine Depry, Anandha Seethanen, Mélina Mariale. Significantly, all but one of the eight had a role (mostly minor) in Paris’s recent production of Le Roi Lion (The Lion King), which to me is a sign that the actor-singer-dancer talent pool in France, while still shallow compared with the U.S. and the U.K., is deepening. Here’s a video of one of their voice rehearsals that gives a sense of the spirit of the show and the quality of the voices. The adept orchestra led by Jan Stumke, the arranger, on piano, reinforces the fine professionalism of the show. And I was especially surprised by the quality of the direction and choreography since that’s where I’ve learned to keep my expectations particularly low in Paris for inexpensive musical revues. Though the emphasis in Swinging Life is more on singing than dancing, Jean-Michel Fournereau’s direction is both efficient and energetic, with wise use of the limited stage space and only a few what-the-hell-was-that-all-about distractions. The one failing of the show is that on several occasions the performers weren't able to express the emotion of the song, particularly in the first and third of the four acts due in part to the absence of a storyline in which to embed the emotion or the song. Nevertheless, Swinging Time is well worth considering for English-speaking travelers and residents in Paris. A further attraction is the fact that the Alhambra is in the canal quarter, an ever-so-pleasant area for a summertime evening stroll, with plenty of laid-back, non-pricey cafés-restaurants to choose from within a two-minute radius of the theater. The show ends shortly before 11 p.m., when most places in the area stop serving food, other than salads, so you might come at around 7/7:30 for an early dinner before the show. Afterwards take a romantic walk along the canal, and perhaps stop into a café to prolong the evening, as everyone else will seem to be doing. Altogether a enjoyable evening for a couple or a family, without NY or London prices. Swinging Life, Tues.-Sat., July 2-31, 2009, at 8:30 p.m. at L’Alhambra, 21 rue Yves Toudic, 10 arrondissement, Metro République or Jacques Bonsergent. The show lasts two hours, plus a 20-minute intermission. Reservations: 01 40 20 40 25. Tickets: 30€ for 1, 45€ for 2; 15€ for students. Since the Alhambra has open seating and is unlikely to fill in summer, I suspect that little to no advance reservation are necessary. Dress lightly, the theater can be warm in summer. For more information see www.myspace.com/swinginglifemusical. The Alhambra, a 600-seat theater in the Canal Saint Martin Quarter, is largely devoted to concerts by contemporary artists (hip-hop, jazz, rock, pop, etc.). For a schedule of concerts see www.alhambra-paris.com. The next big things. Two big productions are coming to Paris this fall, accompanied by significant marketing money: Mozart, l’opéra rock, a French production, opening Sept. 22 for at least a 10-week run at the Palais des Sports, and Zorro, whose London run ended in April, opening later in the fall at the Folies Bergère.]]> 491 2009-07-03 23:13:45 2009-07-03 23:13:45 open open swinging-in-paris-in-july publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock plaquesfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=515 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:15:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr1.jpg 515 2009-07-10 23:15:47 2009-07-10 23:15:47 open open plaquesfr1 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=516 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:16:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr2.jpg 516 2009-07-10 23:16:38 2009-07-10 23:16:38 open open plaquesfr2 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=517 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:17:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr3.jpg 517 2009-07-10 23:17:33 2009-07-10 23:17:33 open open plaquesfr3 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr3b http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=518 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:18:11 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr3b.jpg 518 2009-07-10 23:18:11 2009-07-10 23:18:11 open open plaquesfr3b inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr3b.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=519 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:18:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr4.jpg 519 2009-07-10 23:18:41 2009-07-10 23:18:41 open open plaquesfr4 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr41 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=520 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:19:22 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr41.jpg 520 2009-07-10 23:19:22 2009-07-10 23:19:22 open open plaquesfr41 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr41.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr42 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=521 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:20:00 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr42.jpg 521 2009-07-10 23:20:00 2009-07-10 23:20:00 open open plaquesfr42 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr42.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=522 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:20:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr5.jpg 522 2009-07-10 23:20:30 2009-07-10 23:20:30 open open plaquesfr5 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr6 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=523 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:22:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr6.jpg 523 2009-07-10 23:22:41 2009-07-10 23:22:41 open open plaquesfr6 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr6.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr7 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=524 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:23:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr7.jpg 524 2009-07-10 23:23:10 2009-07-10 23:23:10 open open plaquesfr7 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr7.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr8 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=525 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:23:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr8.jpg 525 2009-07-10 23:23:44 2009-07-10 23:23:44 open open plaquesfr8 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr8.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr81 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=526 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:24:17 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr81.jpg 526 2009-07-10 23:24:17 2009-07-10 23:24:17 open open plaquesfr81 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr81.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata plaquesfr9 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=528 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:26:35 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr9.jpg 528 2009-07-10 23:26:35 2009-07-10 23:26:35 open open plaquesfr9 inherit 513 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/plaquesfr9.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Departure of signs and numbers from the heart of Paris http://francerevisited.com/?p=513 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:40:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=513 My favorite little shop in Paris, Plaques & Pots, one of the last living vestiges of the historical belly of Paris that was the Les Halles Quarter, will be closing at the end of July. Been a long time coming--rather, going. It isn’t easy making a living selling enamel plaques, enamel street numbers, butcher’s paper, and pottery handmade upstairs in an quarter otherwise devoted to cafés, clubs, restaurants, and mass fashion. Owner Josette Samuel, in photo, is now ready to move on. If you live in Paris or will be visiting in July, take advantage of a last chance to visit this authentic remnant of Les Halles, even if only for a vision of the passing of time in the quarter as it pursues its drive to urban uniformity. The wholesale and retail food industry left this area for modern installations in Rungis, south of Paris, in 1969, so Josette’s goods long ago lost their place at Les Halles. Still, I’ve to got applaud her stubborn gumption in taking over (five years ago) the shop formerly called Papeterie Moderne and trying to make a go of selling old-fashion practical-cum-decorative products in a space that’s probably smaller than your kitchen. For more about the shop, read the article I wrote soon after Josette purchased the shop. While at Plaques & Pots, 12 rue de la Ferronerie (tel. 01 42 36 21 72), you might pick up an antique street number for yourself or for friends. Or a street sign (left) or even some old butcher’s paper (right) that she inherited from the previous owners. By the time you get here there may not be any clay pots left, such as this one (photo right). Knowing that I’ve always been a fan of this shop, even before she took it over, Josette gave me one of the last pots as a farewell-to-the-boutique gift. Handmade in the Les Halles Quarter. Several other vestiges of Les Halles from its by-gone centuries as the center of the food trade in Paris continue to hold their own. Among them: - E. Dehillerin, a family-operated store for kitchen and pastry utensils and cookware, 18-20 rue Coquillière. - La Poule au Pot, a bistro with a décor dated 1935, serving traditional rustic fare including one of the best onion soup’s in Paris, 9 rue Vauvilliers. - Julien Aurouze, a family-run pest exterminator that was trapping rats around Les Halles as early as 1872, 8 rue des Halles. Those are sewer rats caught in the quarter in 1925 hanging in the window on the right below. The oldest and most lasting of the remnant of historical Les Halles is the Church of Saint Eustache, 1532-1640, which may well be the most under-visited, touristically speaking, of the major churches of Paris. It’s a Renaissance church within a Gothic body with great accoustics for its famous organ. The enormous proportions of its interior are worth a look, but I’ve come here today to photograph one of the most endearing church sculptures in Paris, “Departure of the Fruits and Vegetables from the Heart of Paris 28 February 1969” by Raymond Mason. “Departure” (completed in 1971) is so fitting at Saint-Eustache not only because the central food market that had existed since the Middle Ages was the raison d’être for the church but because this is a wonderful sculptural retelling of Paradise Lost, the departure from the Garden of Eden. (Having recently written an article about musicals in Paris, I note that it is also reminiscent of the departure from Anatevka in Fiddler on the Roof.) Or, as the sculptor has written of that departure 40 years ago, “It’s the man of the Middle Ages that’s leaving.” Plaques & Pots, formerly Papeterie Moderne, now joins the procession in the departure of signs and numbers from the heart of Paris July 2009. Wishing Josette all the best in her future endeavors.]]> 513 2009-07-10 23:40:40 2009-07-10 23:40:40 open open departure-of-numbers-and-signs-from-the-heart-of-paris-july-2009 publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 10 kathie_deloria@hotmail.com 82.235.160.116 2009-07-13 20:19:56 2009-07-13 20:19:56 1 0 0 11 francerevisited@aol.com http://www.francerevisited.com 88.138.201.36 2009-07-13 21:02:15 2009-07-13 21:02:15 1 0 0 Enjoying Paris with a limited vocabulary... but great dance steps http://francerevisited.com/?p=1266 Sun, 12 Jul 2009 14:20:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=368 ]]> 1266 2009-07-12 14:20:37 2009-07-12 14:20:37 open open enjoying-paris-with-a-limited-vocabulary-but-great-dance-steps publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock gospelamchurchfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=539 Mon, 20 Jul 2009 15:30:05 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/gospelamchurchfr1.jpg 539 2009-07-20 15:30:05 2009-07-20 15:30:05 open open gospelamchurchfr1 inherit 538 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/gospelamchurchfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata gospelamchurchfr11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=540 Mon, 20 Jul 2009 15:31:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/gospelamchurchfr11.jpg 540 2009-07-20 15:31:41 2009-07-20 15:31:41 open open gospelamchurchfr11 inherit 538 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/gospelamchurchfr11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata gospelamchurchfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=541 Mon, 20 Jul 2009 15:32:07 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/gospelamchurchfr2.jpg 541 2009-07-20 15:32:07 2009-07-20 15:32:07 open open gospelamchurchfr2 inherit 538 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/gospelamchurchfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata African-American sacred songs in Paris http://francerevisited.com/?p=538 Mon, 20 Jul 2009 15:34:59 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=538 Charleston Symphony Orchestra Gospel Choir. A Francophile correspondent in the choir had invited me. Among the standing-room-only crowd there were a few of amen corners and raised hands, invariably Americans, along with an international mix of divinely beaming faces, but most simply let their appreciation be shown by thunderous applause and exit donations (entrance was free). This was the third and final concert in Europe for the all-volunteer choir, under the direction of Sandra S. Barnhart, after performances at Saint Paul’s Cathedral in London and Bath Abbey in Bath. The American Church in Paris is an interdenominational Protestant Christian church that claims to be the first American church established on foreign soil. Its first sanctuary was established in 1857, but its main period of growth came after WWI with the presence of American soldiers in France followed by the American tourist boom of the 1920s. The present church at 67 quai d’Orsay dates from 1929. It is home to two bilingual elementary schools, a variety of “twelve step” recovery groups, basketball leagues, other church and community-based services, and a free concert series. ]]> 538 2009-07-20 15:34:59 2009-07-20 15:34:59 open open african-american-sacred-songs-in-paris publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last Chambéry's central food market http://francerevisited.com/?p=1271 Fri, 24 Jul 2009 13:16:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=372 ]]> 1271 2009-07-24 13:16:10 2009-07-24 13:16:10 open open chamberys-central-food-market publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last laturballe http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1272 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 10:43:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/laturballe.jpg 1272 2009-07-30 10:43:53 2009-07-30 10:43:53 open open laturballe inherit 377 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/laturballe.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Sardine Festival Art http://francerevisited.com/?p=1276 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 10:47:12 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=377 ]]> 1276 2009-07-30 10:47:12 2009-07-30 10:47:12 open open sardine-festival-art publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last villettefr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=544 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:24:25 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr1.jpg 544 2009-07-31 13:24:25 2009-07-31 13:24:25 open open villettefr1 inherit 545 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata villettefr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=546 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:25:31 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr2.jpg 546 2009-07-31 13:25:31 2009-07-31 13:25:31 open open villettefr2 inherit 545 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata villettefr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=547 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:26:04 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr3.jpg 547 2009-07-31 13:26:04 2009-07-31 13:26:04 open open villettefr3 inherit 545 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata villettefr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=548 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:26:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr4.jpg 548 2009-07-31 13:26:38 2009-07-31 13:26:38 open open villettefr4 inherit 545 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata villettefr5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=549 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:27:17 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr5.jpg 549 2009-07-31 13:27:17 2009-07-31 13:27:17 open open villettefr5 inherit 545 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Waterfront hoofin’ in Paris http://francerevisited.com/?p=545 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:30:35 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=545 Those visiting Paris in late July and August are well aware of the existence of Paris Plage, the 5-week beach that’s set up along the Seine in the very center of the city. Much less well known and less visited is the Paris Plage extension along Bassin de la Villette in the once-far-flung and increasingly happening 19th arrondissment. The bassin is best approached via the Jaurès or Stalingrad metro stop. Far from the constant, international crowds enjoying a stroll along the Seine, the “beach” area along Bassin de la Villette has a comparatively local feel to it. So local, in fact, that at 7 o’clock yesterday evening families were going home for dinner as they would from a real neighborhood beach. There were only a few stragglers on the lounge chairs on the beach (photo 1) and no one at the ice cream stand (photo 2). Aside from the pleasantness of an off-center promenade, the main attraction of this little beach zone is the open-air dance space that’s set up from July 20 to August 20. Every day from 5 to 8 p.m., later on weekends, a public dance is held, led by a master or mistress of ceremony. Couples and individuals take to the boards try out their steps, whether well practiced or just trying hard. You can, too. Every night there’s a different type of music according to the following schedule: Monday: Ballroom. Tuesday: Rock ’n’ roll and swing. Wednesday: Bal musette, traditional French dancehall. Thursday: Tango. Friday: Salsa. Saturday: Grand Bal (Musette), traditional French dancehall. Sunday: Country—yes, country! I took the photo above on tango evening. That and ballroom draw the fewest dancers, which is why the dancefloor looks sparse above. But it can get quite crowded on other evenings, especially Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Bassin de la Villette may feel far afield, but a summer stroll actually offers an uncrowded, close-up view of the Eiffel Tower. Well, maybe not quite the Eiffel Tower.]]> 545 2009-07-31 13:30:35 2009-07-31 13:30:35 open open waterfront-hoofin%e2%80%99-in-paris publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last villettefr21 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=555 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 16:13:00 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr21.jpg 555 2009-07-31 16:13:00 2009-07-31 16:13:00 open open villettefr21 inherit 545 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr21.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata villettefr11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=557 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 16:13:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr11.jpg 557 2009-07-31 16:13:49 2009-07-31 16:13:49 open open villettefr11 inherit 545 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/villettefr11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata fetedelasardine2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1278 Mon, 03 Aug 2009 22:50:22 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/fetedelasardine2.jpg 1278 2009-08-03 22:50:22 2009-08-03 22:50:22 open open fetedelasardine2 inherit 384 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/fetedelasardine2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Sardine Art 2 http://francerevisited.com/?p=1281 Mon, 03 Aug 2009 22:52:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=384 ]]> 1281 2009-08-03 22:52:16 2009-08-03 22:52:16 open open sardine-art-act-ii publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last grizzledsardiner http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1283 Sat, 08 Aug 2009 10:11:56 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/grizzledsardiner.jpg 1283 2009-08-08 10:11:56 2009-08-08 10:11:56 open open grizzledsardiner inherit 389 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/grizzledsardiner.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Sardine Art 3 http://francerevisited.com/?p=1286 Sat, 08 Aug 2009 10:13:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=389 ]]> 1286 2009-08-08 10:13:26 2009-08-08 10:13:26 open open grizzled-fisherman-or-monsieurivan publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last versailles1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=568 Sat, 08 Aug 2009 13:47:54 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/versailles1.jpg 568 2009-08-08 13:47:54 2009-08-08 13:47:54 open open versailles1 inherit 565 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/versailles1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata versailles2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=569 Sat, 08 Aug 2009 13:51:06 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/versailles2.jpg 569 2009-08-08 13:51:06 2009-08-08 13:51:06 open open versailles2 inherit 565 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/versailles2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Versailles, an alternate approach http://francerevisited.com/?p=565 Sat, 08 Aug 2009 13:56:23 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=565 Palace of Versailles: the (new) royal gate, view toward the royal chapel[/caption]
But there is an alternate approach to visiting Versailles on weekdays in high season, an alternate that offers a sense of the splendor and well-being à la Versaillaise while giving plenty of elbow room… and air. This alternate approach is especially worthwhile for four categories of summer visitors: - return travelers who have already been to the palace but missed the town and the gardens last time, - those living in Paris who are accompanying their friends to Versailles, - first-time visitors willing to forego the succession of overcrowded palace rooms. - visitors who want a sense of the grandness of Versailles without spending a cent.
First, arrive in the town of Versailles in the middle of the afternoon to visit the heart of the town for a couple of hours. Versailles was designed as a royal town with a trio of wide avenues leading to the palace and well ordered streets in between. It has remained a pleasant, upscale town with a 1650-1750 heart. Even with lots of shops are closed in August, the two central quarters of the town—the Saint-Louis Quarter and the Notre-Dame Quarter—make for an enjoyable walk-about, with the requisite café and pastry stops, window shopping, and food market gawking, visits to the churches that gave the name to the respective quarters, and eyes open for architectural details. Take note of the numerous restaurants and outdoor seating in case you decide to stay in town for dinner. You might begin your explorations of the town by picking up a map at the tourist office at 2 bis avenue de Paris, easily found between the RER (suburban train) station and the palace. Sometime after 5:45pm, when tickets for the gardens are no longer sold and the ticket-takers have shuttered their windows, freely enter the gardens from any entrance and enjoy a stroll through Louis XIV’s backyard. The gates of some of the fountain areas will be closed, but the main vistas and the side paths are increasingly left to you in the early evening. You’ll be entering as those who earlier suffered through palace hell are heading out. And you’ll quickly discover that the grand view of the palace of Versailles isn’t from the front but from the back. [caption id="attachment_569" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Palace of Versailles: View from the gardens toward central portion and the Hall of Mirrors. Photo GLK"]Palace of Versailles: View from the gardens toward central portion and the Hall of Mirrors. Photo GLK[/caption] The gardens then stay open until 8:30pm from April 1 to October 31. (This alternate approach to Versailles isn’t valid Nov. 1-March 31, when the gardens close at 6pm.) If in no rush to return to Paris after leaving the gardens, you can stay in that alternate Versailles frame of mind by having an easy-going dinner in town. Note: If, as a part of this alternate Versailles approach, you nevertheless wish to visit the central rooms of the interior of the palace with minimal crowds, arrive in the town of Versailles in the early afternoon, have lunch, then arrive at the palace between 4 and 5pm, when the ticket line is relatively short to non-existent. You’ll then have an hour’s visit inside before going out to the gardens. The palace is open until 6:30pm April 1-Oct. 31 and until 5:30pm Nov.1-March 31 and is closed Monday year-round. For further details on opening times and tickets click here. For France Revisited articles about Versailles see: Versailles, Versigh, Versails, Versighs, Versize, Versace: How I Learned to Forget the Crowds and Appreciate Versailles Part I: Marie-Antoinette’s Versailles Featuring Lolly Winston Part II: Louis XIV’s Versailles. Purgatory and Heaven, War and Peace, Mirrors and Fountains Part III: The American Versailles. Not Impressed Yet? Try This!]]>
565 2009-08-08 13:56:23 2009-08-08 13:56:23 open open versailles-an-alternate-approach publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last
tshirtfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=574 Wed, 12 Aug 2009 06:49:01 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/tshirtfr1.jpg 574 2009-08-12 06:49:01 2009-08-12 06:49:01 open open tshirtfr1 inherit 573 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/tshirtfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata tshirtfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=575 Wed, 12 Aug 2009 06:49:48 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/tshirtfr2.jpg 575 2009-08-12 06:49:48 2009-08-12 06:49:48 open open tshirtfr2 inherit 573 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/tshirtfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata tshirtfr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=576 Wed, 12 Aug 2009 06:50:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/tshirtfr3.jpg 576 2009-08-12 06:50:10 2009-08-12 06:50:10 open open tshirtfr3 inherit 573 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/tshirtfr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata tshirtfr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=577 Wed, 12 Aug 2009 06:50:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/tshirtfr4.jpg 577 2009-08-12 06:50:47 2009-08-12 06:50:47 open open tshirtfr4 inherit 573 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/tshirtfr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata T-Shirts and the T-Shirt Song http://francerevisited.com/?p=573 Sun, 16 Aug 2009 11:48:46 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=573 clicking here or on Youtube by clicking here.) Okay, it may be a stretch to say that you "loved" the song. Rather, there were three general categories of comment. 1. The "I didn't know you sing" comment. My response: Neither did I. 2. The "You and Jordan [Zell] should write more songs together" comment. My response: We are. We've written five already--his music, my lyrics--and if you're in Jerusalem on Sept. 16 you can hear some of them during Jordan's solo concert. 3. The "I liked the song until the f-word at the end" comment. My response: I sometimes feel a little bad about the use of the f-word, but in writing the song it felt like a natural ending to the story told in the song, so there you have it. (My deepest thanks to the ambitous reader who told me I could never get the song on the radio with the f- bomb in it. And my deepest sympathy to the high school teacher who told me that she can no longer recommend France Revisited to her students.) Some of the above categories of comment came through the post office accompanied by a t-shirt, so I want to especially thank those dedicated readers by the following photos of their generous gift. With thanks to the reader who went to London, here I am in your t-shirt in front of the statue of Henri IV on Ile de la Cité: With thanks to the reader who had a t-shirt specially printed in honor of the fact that "The T-Shirt Song" was recorded in Israel, here I am in your t-shirt below the Pont Neuf: With thanks to the reader in Paris who understood the cynicism and humor of "The T-Shirt Song" as soon as he heard it, here I am in front the Paris Police Headquarters. With further thanks to all astute readers with a sense of humor, here I am sitting by the river in a second "I love rien" t-shirt:   I look forward to any gifts I might receive once we've completed our France Revisited music video about prostitution in Paris.]]> 573 2009-08-16 11:48:46 2009-08-16 11:48:46 open open t-shirts-and-the-t-shirt-song publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock dumasstatue http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1290 Thu, 20 Aug 2009 13:04:06 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/dumasstatue.jpg 1290 2009-08-20 13:04:06 2009-08-20 13:04:06 open open dumasstatue inherit 396 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/dumasstatue.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Translated this, d'Artagnan! http://francerevisited.com/?p=1294 Thu, 20 Aug 2009 13:06:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=396 France Revisited welcomes guest blogger Alexandre Dumas (1802-1870), author of Les Trois Mousquetaires and Le Comte de Monte-Cristo, who honors us with a line about travel from his novel Pauline (1838). The line appears on page 173 of the Folio edition. Pauline avait une de ces organisations impressionnables comme il en faut aux artistes, et sans laquelle un voyage n'est qu'un simple changement de localités, une accélération dans le mouvement habituel de la vie, un moyen de distraire son esprit par la vue même des objets qui devraient l'occuper : pas un souvenir historique ne lui échappait ; pas une poésie de la nature, soit qu'elle se manifestât à nous dans la vapeur du matin ou le crépuscule du soir, n'était perdue pour elle. Anyone interested in giving a try a translating that for us? All valiant efforts will be posted. A trio of readers sits at the base of the statue of Alexandre Dumas on place du Général Catroux in Paris’s 17th arrondissement.]]> 1294 2009-08-20 13:06:40 2009-08-20 13:06:40 open open alexandre-dumas-on-travel publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last dumasstatue1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1296 Thu, 20 Aug 2009 13:09:39 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/dumasstatue1.jpg 1296 2009-08-20 13:09:39 2009-08-20 13:09:39 open open dumasstatue1 inherit 1294 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/dumasstatue1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dumasstatue2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1298 Thu, 20 Aug 2009 13:10:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/dumasstatue2.jpg 1298 2009-08-20 13:10:47 2009-08-20 13:10:47 open open dumasstatue2 inherit 1294 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/dumasstatue2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata skytreeavignon1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=587 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:29:57 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/skytreeavignon1.jpg 587 2009-08-25 22:29:57 2009-08-25 22:29:57 open open skytreeavignon1 inherit 586 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/skytreeavignon1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata skytreeavignon2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=588 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:30:23 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/skytreeavignon2.jpg 588 2009-08-25 22:30:23 2009-08-25 22:30:23 open open skytreeavignon2 inherit 586 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/skytreeavignon2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata skytreeavignon21 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=589 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:31:06 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/skytreeavignon21.jpg 589 2009-08-25 22:31:06 2009-08-25 22:31:06 open open skytreeavignon21 inherit 586 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/skytreeavignon21.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata skytreeavignon11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=590 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:31:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/skytreeavignon11.jpg 590 2009-08-25 22:31:30 2009-08-25 22:31:30 open open skytreeavignon11 inherit 586 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/skytreeavignon11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata skytreenimes http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=592 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:33:18 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/skytreenimes.jpg 592 2009-08-25 22:33:18 2009-08-25 22:33:18 open open skytreenimes inherit 586 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/skytreenimes.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Skytrees, Provence http://francerevisited.com/?p=586 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:40:12 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=586 The second is also from Avignon. The stone tower seen in the lower portion of the image is the upper portion of one of the towers that punctuate the walls surrounding the old town. This third is from Nimes. My shirt was getting caught in the branches as I bent down to take the shot, which caused the leaves to blur and allowed me to capture something of the mood of the park toward sunset that evening. The stones glimpsed here are those of a Roman tower. Click here for examples of 3 skytrees from Paris in March. Click here for 2 more from Paris, late March.]]> 586 2009-08-25 22:40:12 2009-08-25 22:40:12 open open skytrees-provence publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last dumasstatue2b http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1306 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 20:21:50 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/dumasstatue2b.jpg 1306 2009-08-26 20:21:50 2009-08-26 20:21:50 open open dumasstatue2b inherit 409 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/dumasstatue2b.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dumasstatue2b1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1308 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 20:24:52 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/dumasstatue2b1.jpg 1308 2009-08-26 20:24:52 2009-08-26 20:24:52 open open dumasstatue2b1 inherit 409 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/dumasstatue2b1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Translate this, d'Artagnan: The response http://francerevisited.com/?p=1310 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 20:25:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=409 Here, in no particular order, are the top ten translations from France Revisited’s winnerless, prizeless “Translate This, D’Artagnan!” competition. It was indeed a tough assignment, not only because we callously provided no context for understanding Pauline’s mindset but also because those sticky words “organisations impressionnables” are so annoyingly French-Cartesian. Kudos to those 8 of the 10 that truly wrestled with the text. The other 2, as you’ll read, are the results of on-line translation software, included here as cautionary tales. First the original Pauline avait une de ces organisations impressionnables comme il en faut aux artistes, et sans laquelle un voyage n’est qu’un simple changement de localités, une accélération dans le mouvement habituel de la vie, un moyen de distraire son esprit par la vue même des objets qui devraient l’occuper : pas un souvenir historique ne lui échappait ; pas une poésie de la nature, soit qu’elle se manifestât à nous dans la vapeur du matin ou le crépuscule du soir, n’était perdue pour elle. Now the 10 translations 1. A valiant attempt by a Frenchman Pawleen had one of these sensitive complexions that fit to the artists and of which the absence turns down a trip to a simple change of cities, an acceleration in the usual life motion, a mean of entertainment to one’s mind by the very sight of the objects that should interest it: not a single historical remind would escape to it, not a single poetic manifestation of nature, whether it should happen in the morning mist or in the dawn of the evening, was lost for it. Translated by J-F.Q., Paris 2. Google this, of Artagnan Pauline was one of these organizations impressionable as it takes to artists, and without which a trip is simply a change of locations, an acceleration in the movement of normal life, a way to distract his mind by the sight even objects that should occupy: not a historical memory escapes him, not a poetry of nature, it is manifestation of us in the steam of the morning or evening twilight, was lost for her. Translated by Google 3. Dusk in Canada Pauline had one of those sensitive constitutions, the kind artists have, without which travel is simply a change of place, an acceleration in the habitual movement of life, a way of distracting one’s mind by simply looking at the things that should otherwise engage it: no historical allusion escaped her; none of the poetry of nature, whether it revealed itself in morning mist or in evening dusk, was lost to her. Translated by S.T., Montreal 4. Twilight in Philadelphia Pauline had one of those impressionable dispositions essential to artists, without which a voyage is nothing but a simple change of location, an acceleration of life's habitual movement, a way of distracting one's mind even at the sight of those objects that ought to engage it; no historic memory escaped her, no poetry of nature, whether showing itself to us in the morning mist or in the evening's twilight, was lost to her. Translated by L.H.M, Philadelphia 5. A New York state of mind Pauline reacted to life as it came, the way artists do; without that approach travel is simply a change of place, an acceleration in the routine of life, a way of distracting the mind by looking at objects that should stimulate it: no historical memory escaped her; none of the poetry of nature, whether revealed to us in the haze of morning or the dusk of evening, was lost to her. Translated by J.L., New York City 6. From the streets of Chicago Pauline, she a sensitive girl, got a psyche like gunpowder, like artists do. She not one of them people go traveling somewhere just to be in a different town and to get the heart pumping by filling the eyes with scenes that supposed to get the juices flowing; nothing escaped that girl; she open to all the songs of nature—she wake up with it, she go to sleep with it; she took it all in. Translated by Jim, Chicago 7. From the pathways of cyberspace Pauline had one of these impressionable organizations as it is necessary some for the artists, and without whom a voyage is only one simple change of localities, an acceleration in the usual movement of the life, a means of distracting its spirit by the sight even of the objects which should occupy it: not a historical memory did not escape to him; not a poetry of nature, that is to say that it appeared with us in the vapor of the morning or the twilight of the evening, was not lost for it. Translated by systranet.fr 8. Mist in Columbia Pauline’s approach had a sensitive touch as artists are wont to have and without which traveling is merely trading places, a stimulus in life’s continuum, a way to entertain one’s mind through the sight of objects that should nourish its reflection—no historical reference escaped her notice nor was any of nature’s mystique lost on her, whether we felt its presence in the morning’s mist or the evening’s dusk. Translated by Jean-Marie, Columbia, SC 9. Fog here Pauline had an impressive organization, the kind an artist would need, and without it, a trip would be nothing but a swapping of places, a sped-up version of the day-to-day, a way to distract the mind at the sight of these objects, objects that should capture her imagination: not a single historical memory escaped her, not a single poetry of nature, be it that it revealed itself to us as the morning fog or as the sunset at dusk, passed her by. Translated by Anne-Louise 10. Übersetzt d’Artagnan! Pauline war jemand von diesen beeindruckenden Organisationen großer Künstler für die eine Reise nur ein einfacher Ortswechsel, eine gewohnte Beschleunigung des Tagesablaufs ist, ein Mittel zur Ablenkung des Blicks auf das Immergleiche, das einen beschäftigt: Nicht, um eine historische Erinnerung einzufangen; auch nicht, um die Poesie der Natur zu erleben, wie sie sich uns im Morgen- oder Abend-Tau manifestiert, dies alles entging ihr. Translated (into German) by E.K., Berlin Feel free to comment by clicking on “Comment” below.]]> 1310 2009-08-26 20:25:44 2009-08-26 20:25:44 open open translate-this-dartagnan-the-response publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock Cynthia in Savoy: A video view over Lac du Bourget http://francerevisited.com/?p=1316 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 09:06:08 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=421 View over Lac du Bourget
For more of Cynthia's videos and travel reports visit her blog.
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sceaux6 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=604 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 00:03:21 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux6.jpg 604 2009-09-01 00:03:21 2009-09-01 00:03:21 open open sceaux6 inherit 602 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux6.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata sceaux61 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=605 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 00:03:55 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux61.jpg 605 2009-09-01 00:03:55 2009-09-01 00:03:55 open open sceaux61 inherit 602 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux61.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata sceaux5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=606 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 00:05:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux5.jpg 606 2009-09-01 00:05:28 2009-09-01 00:05:28 open open sceaux5 inherit 602 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata sceaux4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=607 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 00:06:50 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux4.jpg 607 2009-09-01 00:06:50 2009-09-01 00:06:50 open open sceaux4 inherit 602 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata sceaux3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=608 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 00:07:59 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux3.jpg 608 2009-09-01 00:07:59 2009-09-01 00:07:59 open open sceaux3 inherit 602 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata sceaux7 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=609 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 00:09:29 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux7.jpg 609 2009-09-01 00:09:29 2009-09-01 00:09:29 open open sceaux7 inherit 602 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux7.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata sceaux8 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=610 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 00:11:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux8.jpg 610 2009-09-01 00:11:49 2009-09-01 00:11:49 open open sceaux8 inherit 602 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux8.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata sceaux62 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=613 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 00:21:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux62.jpg 613 2009-09-01 00:21:26 2009-09-01 00:21:26 open open sceaux62 inherit 602 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/sceaux62.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Barefoot in the Parc de Sceaux http://francerevisited.com/?p=602 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 00:26:46 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=602 verte) flow (coulée) passing through the relatively tranquil towns of Bagneux, Fontenay-aux-Roses, Sceaux, Châtenay-Malabry, Antony, Verrières-le-Buisson, and into Massy. Two-thirds along the way is the most well-known greenery to the immediately south of Paris, Parc des Sceaux, a delicious spot for an afternoon loll-about after a genteel ride out and before a satisfied ride home. I pedaled in the company of Va-nu-pieds. Va-nu-pieds is the pseudonym—the lens name, if you will—of a French photographer whose unique work will soon be appearing on France Revisited. A va-nu-pieds, literally “goes barefoot,” is a vagabond, a tramp, a ragamuffin. Further explanations will come when Va-nu-pieds exclusive images begin appearing in this site. Va-nu-pieds took his first series of photos for France Revisited yesterday afternoon while we wandered through the park. I took a few Skytree shots while there, some of which will also eventually appear on this site. We spoke of ways in which image describes place, but I’ll save that discussion for another time. (Actually, you can catch a glimpse of that by reading my preceding blog post.) For now, though, allow me to take the tour-guide approach to tell you why, in the right weather—and yesterday certainly was—Parc de Sceaux is such a worthy destination for a traveler looking to enjoy some green time just outside of the city. There’s also a chateau here, which one sees from the Coulée Verte.
[caption id="attachment_613" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Chateau de Sceaux, view from the Coulée Verte. Photo GLK."]Chateau de Sceaux, view from the Coulée Verte. Photo GLK.[/caption]  
One glimpse of it and you’re sure to want to approach for a closer view. [caption id="attachment_606" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Chateaux de Sceaux, a closer view. Photo GLK"]Chateaux de Sceaux, a closer view. Photo GLK[/caption] Entrance is free. You can walk your bikes through the park, but Va-nu-pieds would have none of that, so we attached them outside and spend a few hours wandering around. The chateau was mostly constructed under the ownership of Jean-Baptiste Colbert (1619-1683), Louis XIV’s Minister of Finance. It’s a photogenic place in a post-card kind of way, but the main attraction of Sceaux is the park, created by the grandfather of French landscape gardeners André Le Nôtre (1613-1700). Le Nôtre’s work at Versailles was already well underway by the time Colbert purchased Sceaux.  Hired by Colbert then by Colbert’s son the Marquis de Seignelay, Le Nôtre designed what remains one of the pleasing and accessible noble parks of the Paris region. As with other noble parks in the region it had its 19th-century era of ruin but has since been lovingly restored Its trademark features are its cascade, [caption id="attachment_607" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Cascade, Parc de Sceaux. Photo GLK."]Cascade, Parc de Sceaux. Photo GLK.[/caption] which includes these spouts, [caption id="attachment_608" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="The cascade, three of five mouths. Photo GLK. "]The cascade, three of five mouths. Photo GLK. [/caption] its Grand Canal, [caption id="attachment_609" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Grand Canal, Parc de Sceaux. Photo GLK."]Parc de Sceaux' Grand Canal viewed over diseased horsechestnut trees. Photo GLK.[/caption] and its perfectly aligned rows of populars, plane trees, horse chestnuts, lindens, and other trees whose names I never remember. [caption id="attachment_610" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Picnickers between closing walls of shade. Dappled sculpture. Photos GLK."]Picnickers between closing walls of shade. Dappled sculpture. Photos GLK.[/caption] The sculptures are less noteworthy, but I like the image above right. It’s simply a delightful place for a stroll, a picnic, a lounge on the grass (actually allowed here!), photographic explorations, a jog, prolonged conversations, a nap, romance, and, as far as I’m concerned, a illicit pee in the woods. There are snack stands and cafés in the park. Other than biking along the Coulée Verte, Parc de Sceaux is easily reachable from the center of Paris by suburban train. Take RER line B, direction Massy-Palaiseau, directly to the Parc de Sceaux stop, a 21-minute ride from Chatelet-Les Halles. The park is then a 3-minute walk from the station. Click here to learn more about Parc de Sceaux in French. Here’s a Google map indicating the path of the Coulée Verte. Zoom in to see Sceaux.]]>
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joecandycatsfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1321 Fri, 04 Sep 2009 12:07:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joecandycatsfr.jpg 1321 2009-09-04 12:07:53 2009-09-04 12:07:53 open open joecandycatsfr inherit 429 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joecandycatsfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata joecandycatsfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1322 Fri, 04 Sep 2009 12:09:42 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joecandycatsfr1.jpg 1322 2009-09-04 12:09:42 2009-09-04 12:09:42 open open joecandycatsfr1 inherit 429 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joecandycatsfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata joecandycatsfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1325 Fri, 04 Sep 2009 12:14:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joecandycatsfr2.jpg 1325 2009-09-04 12:14:44 2009-09-04 12:14:44 open open joecandycatsfr2 inherit 429 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joecandycatsfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata joecandycatsfr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1326 Fri, 04 Sep 2009 12:17:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joecandycatsfr3.jpg 1326 2009-09-04 12:17:41 2009-09-04 12:17:41 open open joecandycatsfr3 inherit 429 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joecandycatsfr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata France Revisited welcomes guest blogger Joe Wilkins http://francerevisited.com/?p=1331 Fri, 04 Sep 2009 12:26:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=429
[caption id="attachment_435" align="alignleft" width="324" caption="Joe (with Tiny) and Candace (with Helena)"]Joe, Candace, Helena, Tiny[/caption]
  Joe Wilkins Joe is an actor, photographer, and real estate agent back home in Atlanta. But since August he is simply a lucky man, on a sabbatical of sorts in Paris as the companion to Candace Lang, who is presiding for the 2009-2010 academic year over the study-abroad consortium of students from Emory, Duke, Cornell, and Tulane. Joe will be contributing to this page over the coming year in whatever way he sees fit. It’s clear from speaking with Joe and from reading his first blog, to be posted soon, that he has a knack for adapting quickly to new environments and an inquisitive gaze as he explores them. Perhaps this is due to the fact that his father was in the U.S. Air Force while Joe was growing up, so the family lived in several places including Maryland, New York State, Massachusetts, and Japan. He shoots real estate virtual tours for a living but also takes a lot of photos of all kinds for his own amusement and to share. He’ll be sharing many of them with readers of France Revisited over the coming months. Joe is also an avid do-it-yourselfer. He says that one of the hardest things to leave behind during this stay in France was his tools. He did much of the work on his 100-year-old house in Atlanta himself. He and Candy now live in a 250-year-old building in the Marais, and even though it isn’t his he’s already purchased several tools and, of course, duct tape, to make him feel at home. He is a dedicated fitness athlete who alternates between resistance training and aerobics. He can do 80 pushups. Joe is an avid fisherman and shotgun shooter. (Keep posted to see how that goes down in Paris.) He also likes hiking and wild mushroom hunting. Candace Lang Candace Lang is an associate professor of French and the Chair of the Department of French and Italian at Emory University in Atlanta, Georgia. She has lived in Paris on many occasions since her first experience as a junior-year-abroad student many years ago. Recently she has managed to spend at least a month in Paris most years. Emory University is a member of a study-abroad consortium called EDUCO consisting of students from Emory, Duke, Cornell and Tulane. The presidency of the Paris program rotates among the various universities. This year, it was Emory’s turn to provide the president, and Candace got the job. A colleague is serving as Acting Chair of the Department while she is gone. Candy shares Joe’s dedication to fitness. She is an avid Masters swimmer, and tries to do regular weight training as well. She hopes she can find a Masters group in Paris that has room for a new member, but is meanwhile trying to make do with municipal pools. Two cats also came along for the year abroad Helena (a.k.a. Pinky Nose) is a 3½-year-old American short hair who Candy adopted about two years ago from a pet rescue shelter. Helena’s communication skills are most amazing and involve a complex system of meows, squawks, mrps, and body language.  Her main interest is food, but she also likes to look at birds, play with a shoestring, and sleep. Tiny is a 1½-year-old American shorthair that Candy acquired by “accident” when one of the coaches at her pool brought into practice one morning a newborn kitten that she had found under a hedge. Candy’s coach volunteered her to take the kitten to the vet, but the vet’s office just sent her home with instructions on nursing it back to health. As happens, Candy bonded with the tiny, helpless creature during the middle-of-the-night bottle feedings that followed. Helena was doubtful about having the new arrival in the household, but she eventually accepted the inevitability of a “little sister.” Tiny also likes to eat, but her favorite pastime is messing with everything within her reach.  Nothing can happen in the household without Tiny thoroughly investigating it.]]>
1331 2009-09-04 12:26:44 2009-09-04 12:26:44 open open france-revisited-welcomes-guest-blogger-joe-wilkins publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last
turkishfilbertfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=619 Wed, 09 Sep 2009 14:14:09 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/turkishfilbertfr.jpg 619 2009-09-09 14:14:09 2009-09-09 14:14:09 open open turkishfilbertfr inherit 617 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/turkishfilbertfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata turkishfilbertfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=620 Wed, 09 Sep 2009 14:14:56 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/turkishfilbertfr1.jpg 620 2009-09-09 14:14:56 2009-09-09 14:14:56 open open turkishfilbertfr1 inherit 617 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/turkishfilbertfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata turkishfilbertleaffr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=621 Wed, 09 Sep 2009 14:15:29 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/turkishfilbertleaffr.jpg 621 2009-09-09 14:15:29 2009-09-09 14:15:29 open open turkishfilbertleaffr inherit 617 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/turkishfilbertleaffr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata linden-sceauxfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=622 Wed, 09 Sep 2009 14:17:14 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/linden-sceauxfr.jpg 622 2009-09-09 14:17:14 2009-09-09 14:17:14 open open linden-sceauxfr inherit 617 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/linden-sceauxfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata A disturbing thing happened on my street http://francerevisited.com/?p=617 Wed, 09 Sep 2009 14:25:01 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=617 You pick it up—or rather I did—and discover that for the past ten years you—or rather I—haven’t been living on a street bordered by linden trees but by something else. Linden trees don’t bear fruit like this, and certainly not in late summer, and certainly not with a spiny husk that contains what turns out to be some kind of nut. Ten years! How could I not have noticed? I thought something was strange when I stood on my balcony one late afternoon and watched the Asian family who occasionally, at about 5:30, just before the garbage truck arrives, go through the garbage cans along the sidewalk. They weren’t going through the garbage though but rather were gathering something beneath the trees. I had quickly forgotten (I took this photo a few days later), however something must have stuck. Later the same day, returning from the bakery, I noticed husks on the ground. There were lots of them, beneath all the trees. How could I have missed them? And for ten years! One moment you’re walking beneath your lindens—yes, your lindens—on your way to buy bread, and five minutes later, demi baguette in hand, you discover that you live on a street not with lindens but with some kind of nut-bearing trees. Your life then feels like a fraud. Mine did, at least the part that is supposedly aware of its surroundings, the part that feels at home on a street with linden trees. But those aren’t lindens after all. The leaves, I saw upon looking up, though heart-shaped like a linden’s, were serrated, like a scary version of linden leaves. And those spiny husks (photo left) look like something from a horror movie! How could I never have noticed them before? Earlier in the summer I was doing some research on the internet—that free-floating kind of research that I associated with the World Book encyclopedia when I was a kid, during which you forget what you were looking for but find along the way lots of details wish you could hold onto—and came across a man I have come to know as Monsieur Nature. Mr. Nature knows all about the birds and the bees and the crops and the trees. I wrote to him and eventually enlisted him to lead me on some naturalist wanderings on the edge of the Paris region, particularly in a zone known as the Vexin Français. The Vexin Français is a regional natural park of villages and farmland north of the Seine on the edge of the Paris region, just before entering Normandy. I’ll write more about the Vexin Français in a later blog. But I mention Mr. Nature now because in my disturbed state at discovering nuts on my lindens I sent him the following photo and asked him to identify the tree. Salut Gary!,” he responded. “You’re to be excused as an urbanite! Other than the flowering of the catkins that comes at a different season from that of lindens (and that should have set you on a different path héhé…)…” I’ve translated the above line since his message was in French. For catkins he’d written chatons, which I had to look up in my French-English dictionary. After that I had to look up catkins in my Webster’s. It means “a spicate inflorescence,” which was no help at all. Mr. Nature went on to tell me that my linden was in fact a noisetier de Byzance, corylus colurna, known in English as a Turkish filbert. He tried to reassure me that my ignorance was excusable by telling me that the leaves of the noisetier de Byzance resemble the linden’s and that both trees often have a pyramidal shape. He added that the Turkish filbert tolerates drought and chalky, alkaline soils, as well as pollution and wind, which made them good city plans. And he informed me that the nuts are edible, which explains the family harvesting them the other day. They are, in fact, hazelnuts. Mr. Nature sent me to the following website: www.lesarbres.fr/fiche-byzance.php Here’s one in English: plantfacts.osu.edu/descriptions/0246-332.html Various websites, I’ve since found, note how the Turkish filbert “resembles a linden from a distance.” (Compare the linden to the right with the filbert at the top of this blog.) But I’ve been walking walk by the trees on my street every day, 2, 4, 6 times a day! And for ten years now! Not knowing doesn’t bother me so much as not noticing. I had never noticed how serrated the leaves are. I had never even registered that spiky husks fall in late August or early September, let alone that there are hazelnuts inside. From my window I thought for ten years that I’ve been watching linden leaves bud in April, that I’ve been watching linden leaves’ pale green turn a deep green, that I’ve been watching linden leaves blown by the wind, that I’ve been watching linden leaves turn yellow then brown and then fall. But I haven’t been watching that all, I’ve been watching filbert leaves! Several times now I’ve gone out to the Vexin Français and other greenery with Mr. Nature and have been trying to remember the names of trees, particularly that in French birch is bouleau and beech is hêtre. But it won’t stick. It isn’t a vocabulary problem it’s a natural problem. Botanical names just don’t stay with me. I’ve repeated those names a dozen times—birch=bouleau, beech= hêtre… birch=bouleau, beech= hêtre… etc. I’ve stared at a single birch for a full three minutes thinking of nothing but bouleau. But still, show me a birch and I’m likely not even to remember that it is a birch, let alone un bouleau. I know where the ambulatory/déambulatoire is in Notre-Dame, I remember that Henri IV was assassinated in 1610, and I’m pretty good at distinguishing a Pissarro from a Sisley, things that interest me only when I’m in a particularly cultured mood but that truly don’t matter to me. But I am very attached to trees. In an uninformed way I’m drawn to them. I’m fascinated by the ways in which they, too, live and change and suffer and survive and adapt and blossom and stay serene. That must be why trees frequently appear on this blog. And I recognize that one of the wonderful things about Paris compared with, say, New York or Rome, is that wherever you go you’ll see a variety of trees: plane trees and horse chestnuts and lindens and, I now know, Turkish filberts—hazelnuts, if you like. But I’m unlikely to remember their names. They just won’t stick in my non-botanical brain. Still, some kind of awareness remains, some kind of discovery, for having digested the disturbing fact that I no longer live on a street with lindens, I feel, as summer ends, a sense of renewal, as though I’ve moved to a new neighborhood, a new street, where hazelnuts grow, and where filbert leaves will soon be falling.]]> 617 2009-09-09 14:25:01 2009-09-09 14:25:01 open open a-disturbing-thing-happened-on-my-street publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last catkinfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=629 Wed, 09 Sep 2009 16:24:54 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/catkinfr.jpg 629 2009-09-09 16:24:54 2009-09-09 16:24:54 open open catkinfr inherit 617 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/catkinfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata turkishfilbertfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=631 Wed, 09 Sep 2009 16:28:50 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/turkishfilbertfr2.jpg 631 2009-09-09 16:28:50 2009-09-09 16:28:50 open open turkishfilbertfr2 inherit 617 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/turkishfilbertfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata catkinfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=632 Wed, 09 Sep 2009 16:30:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/catkinfr1.jpg 632 2009-09-09 16:30:28 2009-09-09 16:30:28 open open catkinfr1 inherit 617 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/catkinfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata joethumbnail http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1334 Mon, 14 Sep 2009 23:52:17 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joethumbnail.jpg 1334 2009-09-14 23:52:17 2009-09-14 23:52:17 open open joethumbnail inherit 441 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joethumbnail.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Getting off the ground http://francerevisited.com/?p=1336 Mon, 14 Sep 2009 23:52:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=441 The small bag that I had tucked under the seat in front of me on the Boeing seven-something-something that was ready to take off for Paris began to bulge and distort and produce a rustling sound that could just be heard above the ambient hum of the jet’s interior. Although I had been awake for thirty-four hours straight, I knew that the bag’s contortions were not the product of my sleep-deprived senses. That was Pinky Nose. She was expressing her displeasure at being rudely zipped into an oblong bag, hauled through a cacophonous airport, and stuffed under a seat in the belly of an ominously growling mass of machinery. Pinky Nose, whose official name is Helena, is a twelve-pound, grey-and-white cat with a very large head and a very pink nose. She does not like to travel, and was indignant about the fact that she was not even consulted on the subject of moving to Paris. In the row in front of me with her own animated carry-on bag was my partner, Candy, a professor of French. In the agitated bag at her feet was Tiny, a maker of mischief. A week before our departure, Tiny had decided that we didn’t have nearly enough details to take care of before leaving Atlanta for a year, so she bit off and swallowed two sections of a rubber exercise band. Tiny was now wearing the silly plastic Dixie Cup around her head to prevent her from biting at the sutures on her shaved belly. The sutures themselves would have to be removed by a veterinarian in France. [caption id="attachment_451" align="alignleft" width="246" caption="Helena, aka Pinky Nose"]Helena, aka Pinky Nose[/caption] It was hard to believe that we were actually sitting in our seats ready to begin our adventure in Paris. During our many months of preparation, the whole world seemed to be conspiring to prevent us from accomplishing this feat. Acquiring our long-stay visas was one of the most frustrating experiences of our lives!  The visa department at the French Consulate in Atlanta has redefined the term “bureaucratic nightmare.” They have arranged a system of non-communication that is harder to crack than a Swiss bank vault. They will not respond to phone calls, emails, or faxes and will not meet with you without an appointment. What else is there?  I suppose we could have tried smoke signals, but Atlanta has an outdoor burning ban. The consulate website is filled with information that is either contradictory or downright wrong. The French version of the requirement for a long-stay visa is quite different from the English one. One calls for five copies of all documents, and one calls for three. One calls for a police background check, the other makes no mention of a police report. The photo requirements given on the website have not been updated for years and still call for photos in a one-inch format. The new photo requirements for so-called Schengen countries within Europe (calling for 45 x 35 mm photos) were adopted by France in 2007, but the website had never been changed. Since our email request for clarification was ignored, we had no choice but to conform to all the requirements. Consequently, when we initially applied for our visas, we brought all the documents requested in both the French and English versions as well as photos in both formats. My application was accepted, with reservation, while Candy was told that the visitor’s visa that the study-abroad consortium (for which she would be working) had been obtaining for their American professor for a decade was no longer acceptable under French law. She would have to obtain a temporary work permit. This would be processed in Paris and would take much longer than the ninety days required to process a visitor’s visa.  Unfortunately we were not allowed to apply for the visitor’s visa more than ninety days in advance of our departure, so Candy would only have ninety days to apply for a visa that normally takes at least four months. A couple of weeks later, I received a phone call from the visa department asking for additional documentation regarding my health insurance, but apart from that, we had no further communication with the consulate until the week before our departure. We called, and sent numerous emails and faxes merely asking for the status of our visas, but never received a response of any sort. In deference to our benefactor, I can’t go into details as to how we finally managed to break through the hardened bunker that is the consulate’s communication system, but suffice it to say that, as a desperate last resort, we went way up the bureaucratic ladder and appealed to a much higher authority. To our surprise and delight, somebody intervened on our behalf and everything miraculously changed almost overnight. We went from feeling totally invisible to being treated like VIP’s. Suddenly, the voice mailbox was no longer full; suddenly, our phone calls were returned; suddenly, we were invited to come into the consulate the next morning; suddenly, our visas were ready! [caption id="attachment_446" align="alignright" width="341" caption="Our living room"]Our living room[/caption] Of course, when we got to Paris, the bureaucracy began anew, but that’s another story for another time. We are now installed in a really cool apartment in an ancient building in the hip Marais section of Paris. Our neighborhood is so hip it has a bookstore called, “I Love My Blender.” People dream all their lives of a chance to take a short vacation that would give them the opportunity to merely walk down the little street in the heart of the Marais that for the next year Candy and I and our two cats will call home. So, my guess is that in the final analysis all our preparations and all the hassles we went through to get here will prove worthwhile. It’s remarkable how much anxiety can be erased by the smell and taste of a fresh baguette.]]> 1336 2009-09-14 23:52:49 2009-09-14 23:52:49 open open getting-off-the-ground publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last apt-livingroomfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1337 Tue, 15 Sep 2009 09:51:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/apt-livingroomfr.jpg 1337 2009-09-15 09:51:38 2009-09-15 09:51:38 open open apt-livingroomfr inherit 1336 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/apt-livingroomfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata pinkynosefr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1340 Sun, 20 Sep 2009 21:56:00 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/pinkynosefr.jpg 1340 2009-09-20 21:56:00 2009-09-20 21:56:00 open open pinkynosefr inherit 1336 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/pinkynosefr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata pinkynosefr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1341 Sun, 20 Sep 2009 21:56:46 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/pinkynosefr1.jpg 1341 2009-09-20 21:56:46 2009-09-20 21:56:46 open open pinkynosefr1 inherit 1336 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/pinkynosefr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata joethumbnail1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1343 Mon, 21 Sep 2009 23:35:14 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joethumbnail1.jpg 1343 2009-09-21 23:35:14 2009-09-21 23:35:14 open open joethumbnail1 inherit 453 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/joethumbnail1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata septshooting1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1344 Mon, 21 Sep 2009 23:39:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/septshooting1.jpg 1344 2009-09-21 23:39:40 2009-09-21 23:39:40 open open septshooting1 inherit 453 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/septshooting1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata septshooting2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1347 Mon, 21 Sep 2009 23:44:21 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/septshooting2.jpg 1347 2009-09-21 23:44:21 2009-09-21 23:44:21 open open septshooting2 inherit 453 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/septshooting2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata cynthiafr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1356 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 11:10:55 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/cynthiafr1.jpg 1356 2009-09-28 11:10:55 2009-09-28 11:10:55 open open cynthiafr1-2 inherit 466 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/cynthiafr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata The grape harvest in the Savoy http://francerevisited.com/?p=1358 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 11:13:14 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=466 Foreigners rarely associate the Alps with wine, but there are indeed many vineyards in the hillsides of the Savoy region. When out motorbiking in September I sometimes come across fields in full, backbreaking harvest. I recently stopped to film some harvesters in action and ended up being invited to have a delicious taste of freshly squeezed grape juice.
 
Grape Harvest in the French Alps For more videos and travel reports by Cynthia see her blog www.american-in-france.com.
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1358 2009-09-28 11:13:14 2009-09-28 11:13:14 open open the-grape-harvest-in-the-savoy publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last
henri1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=638 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 16:58:50 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri1.jpg 638 2009-09-28 16:58:50 2009-09-28 16:58:50 open open henri1 inherit 637 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata henri2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=639 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 16:59:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri2.jpg 639 2009-09-28 16:59:33 2009-09-28 16:59:33 open open henri2 inherit 637 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata henri4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=640 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:00:35 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri4.jpg 640 2009-09-28 17:00:35 2009-09-28 17:00:35 open open henri4 inherit 637 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata henri3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=641 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:01:11 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri3.jpg 641 2009-09-28 17:01:11 2009-09-28 17:01:11 open open henri3 inherit 637 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata henri5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=642 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:01:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri5.jpg 642 2009-09-28 17:01:53 2009-09-28 17:01:53 open open henri5 inherit 637 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata _edit_lock _edit_last henri11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=644 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:04:19 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri11.jpg 644 2009-09-28 17:04:19 2009-09-28 17:04:19 open open henri11 inherit 637 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Destination Brittany, part 1: travels with Henri http://francerevisited.com/?p=637 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:07:02 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=637 Between car rental, gas, and tolls, a Paris/Brittany round-trip can cost about the same as a week in a 5-star hotel in Tunisia, flight included, but Henri and I found a comparatively decent price with an agency called Rent-a-Car-with-One-Taillight-Missing. The car came with a quarter tank of gas, which may or may not have been what the guy meant when he told us that we were getting an upgrade. Anyway, the car moved and Henri managed to avoid getting us crunched by a bus (i.e. he almost got us crunched by a bus), so by the time we made it out of Paris I wasn’t worried about compatibility so much as survival. Dinard is just past Saint Malo, which is just past Le Mont Saint Michel, so we had a choice between the north route going through Normandy or the southern route going past Chartres and Le Mans. Henri didn’t care as long as there was a palace to visit along the way—all Henri wants to do is visit palaces—so I decided that we would take the southern route and told him to pull off the toll road at La Ferté Bernard. La Ferté Bernard doesn’t have a palace. It doesn’t have much of anything, to tell the truth, but part of the interest of a road trip is to stop where there isn’t much of anything, otherwise it isn’t a road trip but an itinerary. Henri only agreed to stop at La Ferté Bernard because I told him that something really important had happened there in the 15th century. Being French he couldn’t stand the idea that I might know something about his country that he doesn’t. La Ferté Bernard is a very nice town as far as towns with nothing to see go. Its main attraction is the church Notre-Dame-des-Marais that’s a mix of flamboyant Gothic and let’s just finish the damn thing. I took the picture of the scribe (above) there. There’s also a late-15th-century entrance gate to the old town, below left, where Henri stopped complaining about the lack of a palace at La Ferté Bernard long enough to pose. Henri’s face is not normally as blurred as in these photos but you really don’t want to see his expression here. I also got him to pose on the other side of the gate, below right, without him seeing that I’d placed by a sign that says “I'm waiting for my master.” One of the nicest things about La Ferté Bernard is that at lunchtime, when the streets are deserted, you can have a pee by a plane tree without worrying about passersby. La Ferté Bernard is only a few miles off the A11 toll road, so it was well worth the 30-minutes stop, though we didn’t realize at the time that in addition to paying something like 200 euros to get off the toll road we had to pay another 200 to get back on. By now we were getting hungry so we took a vote as to where we should stop for lunch. Henri voted for a quick lunch at a rest stop so that we would have plenty of time in the afternoon to visit palaces. I voted for Laval, which is an actual town where I told him there was lots to see. We went to Laval, not because my argument was so convincing but because I was driving. Laval, as far as we could tell, is famous for having parking unimeters so far from most of the parking spaces that you risk getting a ticket during the 10 minutes it takes you to find it. We had lunch on the terrace of a brasserie by the River Mayenne facing the ramparts and fortress castle that define the old town. I don’t care much for omelets but I ordered one anyway because road trips are for eating things you don’t normally eat (I’ll tell you sometime about my meal at Shoney’s when driving through South Carolina last April.) I regretted the omelet as soon as it arrived, but the view was indeed quite nice from where we sat, the sun was out, and Henri tends to complain less when he’s eating. We then headed into Brittany through less traveled roads so as to visit Fougères, which actually does have a palace. Well, sort of. It’s actually a fortress-castle, half in ruins, but Henri bounded from the car as though we’d just entered an oasis after three days in a cultural desert. Like other fortress-castles on the former border between the Duchy of Brittany and the Kingdom of France, the castle was built, rebuilt, and refortified from the 12th through 14th centuries at a time when Brittany when trying to stave off advances by the French kings with the Normans lurking nearby. Between the castle and the under-visited town nearby, Fougères is a great introduction to the growth and medieval history of France and to the slate and schist that defines Brittany’s architecture as well as a great example of the pleasures of traveling in off the main tourist paths, even with Henri for company. Actually, Henri’s mood had changed by the time we cross the drawbridge into the castle complex. He was now in full, Euro-cultured glory. It’s quite amazing to see how connected Europeans feel at times to the full length of their national and continental history. At most, even well-educated Americans will connect to only a portion of their history—for example, the “In God We Trust” part or the free market part or the pioneering part or the immigrant part or the I-can-eat-pray-etc-anyway-I-want part—but Europeans, particularly when they have a diploma or two on their CV, have a way of embracing their entire past no matter how obscure it may appear. We were lucky enough to have arrived shortly before a guided tour was setting out. The guide gathered together the entire crowd of visitors that afternoon. There were three of us: me, Henri, and a woman who looked like she was trying to escape a bad marriage only to realize that the ruins of an old fortress were not the answer. But for Henri this was the answer. He was now in ecstasy. Here is a glimpse of Henri’s smile against a backdrop of the Château de Fougères. ]]> 637 2009-09-28 17:07:02 2009-09-28 17:07:02 open open travels-with-henri-destination-brittany publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last henri51 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=648 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 20:17:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri51.jpg 648 2009-09-28 20:17:38 2009-09-28 20:17:38 open open henri51 inherit 637 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/henri51.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata The borrowed gun http://francerevisited.com/?p=1360 Wed, 30 Sep 2009 23:45:46 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=453 Please don’t think that I’m looking to enter the fray of the hot-button topic of gun control in the United States when I tell you that I miss my shotguns now that I’m in Paris. I’ve been out shooting anyway, and doing so has given me a glimpse of what some consider as much a part of French culture as wine and cheese and baguettes. Firearm regulations tend to be stricter in Europe than in the United States, but France has a long tradition of hunting and target shooting, and individuals who avidly participate in these sports constitute a strong political force. It might surprise you to learn that the private ownership of shotguns and hunting rifles by individuals with clean criminal records is very common in France. There are numerous shops right here in Paris where you can buy guns and ammunition. In order to purchase them you have to be in possession of either a hunting license (permit de chasse) or a sport shooting license (license sportif de tir). The hunting license is more difficult to obtain in France than in the United States because it requires you to actually know something about hunting, gun safety, and shooting. You have to pass a fairly rigorous test before you are granted a hunting license in France. The sport shooting license is much easier to obtain. You merely have to have a clean criminal record and be a member of one of the many shooting clubs in around the country. There are special exceptions to these rules for foreigners who are coming into France for a specific hunt or to compete in an international shooting tournament. [caption id="attachment_458" align="alignleft" width="360" caption="Me at the BTC de Gonesse"]Me at the BTC de Gonesse[/caption] The last time I spent an extended period in France, I brought my favorite shotgun with me and obtained a sport shooting permit after I arrived. I even bought another gun while I was here and brought it back to the United States. I didn’t bring a gun this time, however, because of a sticky new regulation requiring anyone in possession of firearms of any description in France to have a gun safe in their home. Well, our apartment in the Marais came with a great coffee machine but no gun safe, and I was not interested in buying a 500 euro safe for a stay of only one year, so this time I left my guns at home. That doesn’t prevent me from shooting in France, however, because I either borrow or rent a gun at my club, le Ball-Trap Club de Gonesse. Ball-trap is the French word for what we call “clay target sports,” which include skeet, trap, and the various forms of sporting clays. The club is located in the middle of vast grain fields in the town of Gonesse, about 14 miles northeast of Paris, not far from Charles de Gaulle airport. The town of Gonesse was prominently mentioned in the news in 2000 because that was where the Concorde supersonic jet crashed. When the planes take off from de Gaulle, they pass directly over the shooting club. Shooting clubs tend to be located in places like that. We have a club in Atlanta that was built directly on top of a former landfill. Perhaps the most amazing thing about the BTC de Gonesse is that I can get there from Paris using public transportation. Granted, I do have to walk about a mile from the last bus stop, but for me, that just adds to the appeal, because I get to mix some exercise in with my shooting. Everybody else who shoots at the BTC de Gonesse is a permanent resident of France, and they all have cars. On previous stays in Paris I would rent a car, at a daily cost of about 100 euros, every time I wanted to go shooting, but when visiting Paris once on a ten-day trip, without a gun or any ammunition to carry, I figured out by pouring over the metro map and consulting Google Earth that I could take the #7 metro to Fort d’Aubervilliers followed by the #250 bus to its final stop in Gonesse, which brought me within easy walking distance of the club. In addition to saving a huge amount of money on my shooting, this mode of transportation has allowed me to see parts of the working class suburbs of Paris that I would otherwise have missed. [caption id="attachment_456" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="After the metro and the bus, my shortcut through the wheat field to the BTC de Gonesse "]After the metro and the bus, my shortcut through the wheat field to the BTC de Gonesse [/caption] The BTC de Gonesse is a shotgun shooter’s paradise. It has three or four combination international skeet and trap ranges as well as five or six sporting clays (parcours de chasse) layouts and a running boar target. It offers very inexpensive gun rentals, and reasonably priced ammunition is available. There are also experienced instructors on hand for beginners or for experienced shooters who want to perfect their skills. The staff and the other members of the club are friendly and helpful. I’ve yet to meet anyone there who speaks English. For someone who doesn’t speak French, or someone who is not very familiar with all of the clay target sports, a trip to Gonesse could prove to be a confusing and frustrating experience. My French is far from perfect, but I made it a point to learn all of the vocabulary involved in shotgun shooting before my first outing to a French shooting club. In addition, I am a very experienced shooter and I serve as a referee for shotgun tournaments and even write a blog for my club back in the United States. Even so, they simply do things differently at a shooting club in France compared to back home. It takes a while to catch on to all the procedures, but I was able to do that just by watching what everybody else was doing. For example they have a really fun shotgun sport in France that they call match po’. They shoot it when a large number of people want to shoot at the same time. The shooters are divided randomly into teams of perhaps ten shooters each. Each team lines up behind its first shooter at two different spots on a sporting clay layout. A series of targets is thrown from the different traps on the layout, and the two teams alternate shooting the targets from their respective positions on the field. After every shooter from each team has shot twelve targets from the first position, the teams switch places and the target sequence is repeated. Usually an additional target is thrown at the end to make for 25 total. At the end of a round of match po’, there is an individual winner and a winning team. Even though you may not know half of the people you are shooting with, a sort of team spirit is instantly created and you naturally root for the other guys on your squad, and of course, deride the guys on the other squad. At the end of a day of shooting at the BTC de Gonesse, I asked some other guys in the clubhouse why the sport was called match po’. They consulted with each other in very rapid French that I was not really able to follow and finally came up with a satisfactory answer: “That’s just what it’s called.” BTC Gonesse: Route de l’Europe, 95500 Gonesse. Tel: 01 39 87 52 03 A list of ball-trap clubs in the Paris regions: www.ffbt-ligue-idf.info/les_stands.htm]]> 1360 2009-09-30 23:45:46 2009-09-30 23:45:46 open open shooting-in-france publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last 32 pull@mac.com http://www.phatblog.de 93.222.238.92 2009-10-04 10:51:20 2009-10-04 10:51:20 1 0 0 bloggeusessept09fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1363 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:35:03 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/bloggeusessept09fr.jpg 1363 2009-10-11 21:35:03 2009-10-11 21:35:03 open open bloggeusessept09fr inherit 0 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/bloggeusessept09fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata bloggeusessept09fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1364 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:35:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/bloggeusessept09fr1.jpg 1364 2009-10-11 21:35:38 2009-10-11 21:35:38 open open bloggeusessept09fr1 inherit 0 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/bloggeusessept09fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata kimsotman-fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1365 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:37:01 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/kimsotman-fr.jpg 1365 2009-10-11 21:37:01 2009-10-11 21:37:01 open open kimsotman-fr inherit 0 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/kimsotman-fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata michelepattersonfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1366 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:37:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/michelepattersonfr.jpg 1366 2009-10-11 21:37:41 2009-10-11 21:37:41 open open michelepattersonfr inherit 0 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/michelepattersonfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata bloggeusessept09fr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1367 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:44:34 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/bloggeusessept09fr2.jpg 1367 2009-10-11 21:44:34 2009-10-11 21:44:34 open open bloggeusessept09fr2 inherit 0 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/bloggeusessept09fr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Destination Brittany, part 2: more travels with Henri http://francerevisited.com/?p=656 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 14:38:57 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=656 If there was one thing I’d learned about Henri after 24 hours on the road it was that you can tell him to pose anywhere and he’ll do it. So here is Henri on his bed in the cheery room we’d been given. Henri and I had never spent the night in the same room, so I took the bed by the door in case it turned out that Henri snores or has other uncontrollable and unpleasant nighttime habits that would require me shifting to the couch in the living room. Turns out he refrained from doing any such thing that night. We both slept well. Brittany is famous for its ever-changing weather, whereby you’re told to run outside as soon as the sun shines because it may not last long. So immediately upon waking up and eating the breakfast that our hostess had prepared for us (further embarrassing Henri for not having a brought a gift) we got in the car and drove off, planning to find a gift along the way. Our good fortune with the weather is also the reason that we bypassed Saint-Malo. It was far too nice out to spend our time on and within the granite ramparts of that famous rebuilt town that was once made wealthy from the workings of privateers and merchant ship owners and once made rubble in August 1944 by the workings of war. So we leap-frogged Saint-Malo proper and headed to its suburban the coast by way of the Lemoëlou Manor, which once belonged to Jacques Cartier (1491-1557). Cartier, you may remember from history class (particularly if you’re Canadian), left from Saint-Malo in 1534 to find a northern route to Asia and instead discovered Canada, which he claimed in the name of King Francis I. I’m writing this on Columbus Day and am aware that it is politically incorrect to say that Europeans discovered the Americas since there were already people here, but all traveling, I think, can be considered as discovery—or rediscovery—no matter how many people have been there before, so let’s all take a break with the anti-discovery crusade. Not that that thought made me particularly anxious to visit Jacques Cartier’s house, now a museum that reveals manor life in these parts in the 16th century. We couldn’t have visited even if we wanted to because they were closing for lunch shortly after 11am even though the sign out front says that they close for lunch at 11:30. Still, an employee let us enter into the courtyard to take the above picture before she closed the gate and drove off for a 3-hour lunch. The manor is located less than a mile inland from Rothéneuf. We followed the signs to Rochers Sculptés to see rocks along the cliff that had been sculpted into 300 characters by a priest named Abbé Adolphe Fouré (1839-1910). At age 55 he had a stroke, which left him deaf and mute yet able to wield a pick and hammer. He then withdrew to this windy corner of Brittany (actually, all corners of Brittany are windy) and set about sculpting the rock over an area of 5000 square feet into characters inspired by local legend. Henri and I nearly turned back when we discovered that we had to pay 3€ each to climb on the rocks when nearly the entire coast of Brittany is full of rocks to climb on for free. But I felt a sense of investigative duty to see it since we were right there, so I sported up the 6€ and off we traipsed on the rocks. And I’m glad we did because now I can tell you that it isn’t worth driving out of your way to visit the Rochers Sculptés, however, if you ever do come this way and there aren’t more than a few other cars in the lot you might was well fork over the few euros and behold the monk’s work and have a climb on the rocks—at your own risk of breaking an ankle or being blown off the cliff in the wind, I might add. Afterwards we continued along the coast and stopped to admire some beautiful seascapes after that. Such as this: and this and this, where you’ll see why this is called the Emerald Coast. We then drove to the Point de Grouin, which is the northeastern most point of the peninsula and in fact of all of Brittany considering that when you look out you see Normandy. After parking our car, we couldn’t agree on which path to take out to the point. Henri wanted to take the high road out and I wanted to take the low road, which pretty much sums up the difference between us, and unwilling to fathom a compromise in which one of us would have to give in and the other one smirk, we separated, which was just as well because after a couple of hours with Henri a little break is always welcome. I eventually found Henri back near the car (I had the keys). I could tell by the way he asked what had taken me so long that he had either missed me or had taken the less interesting path. When I asked him if he’d seen Le Mont Saint Michel in the distance he nodded “Mm” in such a way that I knew he was lying. Here’s Le Mont Saint Michel beyond the rocks: We then stopped at Cancale. I’d been here briefly on a weekday in early June this year when there wasn’t a tourist in sight and found it a wonderfully charming little port town where I wish I’d been able to spend more than an hour. Now, on a sunny September weekend it was quite crowded, and even though I didn’t feel the need to stay for long I was very glad that I did have another hour here. Cancale, which faces the bay of Le Mont Saint Michel and finally afforded Henri a distant glimpse of the Mount, is famous for its oysters, which enjoy the refreshing current of some of the strongest tides in the world. The Cancale is a firm, salty everyman’s oyster that makes its way onto tables throughout France, especially during the Christmas-New Year season. To best appreciate Cancale oysters in Cancale you should go directly to the oystermongers at the northern end of the port and ask them to open up a dozen that you can then down (with a spritz of lemon) on the ledge with a view out to the oyster farms and, on a bright day, Le Mont Saint Michel in the distance. Henri and I would have done just that if we’d known the stands were there before we took a seat in a creperie. No regrets, though. We enjoyed the crepes, which are also very much a part of Brittany. Henri was feeling particularly Breton by the time we left. We were so happy with our little excursion that it wasn’t until we got back to the house in Dinard that we realized that we’d yet to get a thank-you gift for our hostess. We didn’t have time go back out though as we had a party to dress for.]]> 656 2009-10-15 14:38:57 2009-10-15 14:38:57 open open travels-with-henri-destination-brittany-part-2 publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last brittany2-a http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=654 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:25:45 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-a.jpg 654 2009-10-16 14:25:45 2009-10-16 14:25:45 open open brittany2-a inherit 656 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-a.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata brittany2-b http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=655 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:26:19 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-b.jpg 655 2009-10-16 14:26:19 2009-10-16 14:26:19 open open brittany2-b inherit 656 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-b.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata brittany2-c http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=657 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:26:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-c.jpg 657 2009-10-16 14:26:49 2009-10-16 14:26:49 open open brittany2-c inherit 656 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-c.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata brittany2-d http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=658 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:27:20 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-d.jpg 658 2009-10-16 14:27:20 2009-10-16 14:27:20 open open brittany2-d inherit 656 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-d.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata brittany2-e http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=659 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:28:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-e.jpg 659 2009-10-16 14:28:49 2009-10-16 14:28:49 open open brittany2-e inherit 656 0 attachment 0 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http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-h.jpg 663 2009-10-16 14:30:46 2009-10-16 14:30:46 open open brittany2-h inherit 656 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-h.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata brittany2-i http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=664 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:31:20 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-i.jpg 664 2009-10-16 14:31:20 2009-10-16 14:31:20 open open brittany2-i inherit 656 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-i.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata brittany2-j http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=665 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:32:07 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-j.jpg 665 2009-10-16 14:32:07 2009-10-16 14:32:07 open open brittany2-j inherit 656 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-j.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata brittany2-k http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=666 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:32:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-k.jpg 666 2009-10-16 14:32:38 2009-10-16 14:32:38 open open brittany2-k inherit 656 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-k.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata brittany2-k1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=667 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:33:09 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-k1.jpg 667 2009-10-16 14:33:09 2009-10-16 14:33:09 open open brittany2-k1 inherit 656 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/brittany2-k1.jpg _wp_attached_file allielemcofr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1368 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 14:53:46 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/allielemcofr.jpg 1368 2009-10-21 14:53:46 2009-10-21 14:53:46 open open allielemcofr inherit 484 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/allielemcofr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Allie gets into the rhythm of Paris, naps included http://francerevisited.com/?p=1371 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 14:56:55 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=484 Extracurricular Blogtivity Blog.]]> 1371 2009-10-21 14:56:55 2009-10-21 14:56:55 open open allie-gets-into-the-rhythm-of-paris publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last alliemariagefreres http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1374 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 22:44:32 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/alliemariagefreres.jpg 1374 2009-10-21 22:44:32 2009-10-21 22:44:32 open open alliemariagefreres inherit 1371 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/alliemariagefreres.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata partyclothes1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=678 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:46:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/partyclothes1.jpg 678 2009-10-23 10:46:49 2009-10-23 10:46:49 open open partyclothes1 inherit 1534 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/partyclothes1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata partyclothes2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1532 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:47:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/partyclothes2.jpg 1532 2009-10-23 10:47:47 2009-10-23 10:47:47 open open partyclothes2 inherit 1534 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/partyclothes2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata partyclothes21 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1533 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:48:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/partyclothes21.jpg 1533 2009-10-23 10:48:40 2009-10-23 10:48:40 open open partyclothes21 inherit 1534 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/partyclothes21.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Destination Brittany, part 3: party clothes http://francerevisited.com/?p=1534 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:52:20 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=677 The Rance River separates the old port town of Saint Malo with the 19th century seaside resort of Dinard. Dinard remains a luxury-minded town, the kind of place where one is invited, as Henri and I were, to a party whose bilingual invitation reads: “Dress code: smart casual – blue and white of course!” on the English side and “Tenue marine de rigueur: en bleu et blanc naturellement!” on the French side. My brother Jon would have loved Dinard. He liked anything with the word resort in it: beach resort, ski resort, island resort, tennis resort. Wearing “smart casual” or “resort casual” came natural to him. After he died in a plane accident in 2006 my three other brothers and I inherited his clothes. They either didn’t fit the others or they weren’t interested, so I brought some back to Paris. I rarely wear any of them but when I received the invitation to the party in Dinard I immediately remembered they were in my closet. In this photo I am dressed in Jon’s clothes in Dinard, the sweater studiously thrown over my shoulder as it should be in such places. The photo doesn’t show my (brother’s) blue loafers. The invitation called for blue and white not only because those are the colors of seafarers but because those are also the colors of the Virgin in the grotto along the Promenade du Clair de Lune at Dinard, which is where I am posing. This Virgin echoes the highly celebrated one in Lourdes, which is where one of the hosts of the party is from. To me, the strangest thing about this photo is that I find that I’m not only wearing Jon’s clothes but also his smile. He would have loved having his picture taken on his way to a party in Dinard. The couple hosting the party held a brunch beginning at noon the following day, which required another set of smart blue and white clothes. The invitation was actually unclear as to whether blue and white was de rigueur for the entire weekend or just for Saturday evening, so while some guests treated the Sunday brunch as an afterthought others kept up appearances. I don’t often shop with “smart casual – blue and white of course!” in mind, and to be honest I don’t often shop at all, so for Sunday brunch I looked for my mother for inspiration. At my age you might think it would be embarrassing to admit that my mother sometimes dresses me, but in my family we’re never too old to be given clothes by our mother. For nearly 55 years—for 9 children, then 28 grandchildren, and now 2 great-grandchildren—she has had an uncanny ability to spot a shirt or hat or a pair of pants from yards away and know exactly who it will fit and who might wear it. And if she gets it wrong she simply gives it to someone else. Before going to the Sunday brunch, I had Henri take this photo so as show my mother that I finally found the occasion to wear that shirt and that hat she gave me last time I visited. You need to imagine the white short and the sandals—I’m sure my mother can. Travel, as I like to say, isn’t just about where you’re going, it’s also about where you come from. I now add that it’s also about where your clothes come from.]]> 1534 2009-10-23 10:52:20 2009-10-23 10:52:20 open open destination-brittany-part-3-party-clothes publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last partyclothes11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=683 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:53:22 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/partyclothes11.jpg 683 2009-10-23 10:53:22 2009-10-23 10:53:22 open open partyclothes11 inherit 1534 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/partyclothes11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata kendrahintonfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1377 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 19:06:45 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/kendrahintonfr.jpg 1377 2009-10-25 19:06:45 2009-10-25 19:06:45 open open kendrahintonfr inherit 492 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/kendrahintonfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Kendra watches the storming of the Bastille at the Techno Parade http://francerevisited.com/?p=1379 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 19:07:08 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=492 Extracurricular Blogtivity Blog.]]> 1379 2009-10-25 19:07:08 2009-10-25 19:07:08 open open kendra-watches-the-storming-of-the-bastille-at-the-techno-parade publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last bastillefr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1380 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 19:15:03 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/bastillefr.jpg 1380 2009-10-25 19:15:03 2009-10-25 19:15:03 open open bastillefr inherit 1379 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/bastillefr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata kendra-bastille1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=500 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 10:22:45 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/kendra-bastille1.jpg 500 2009-10-26 10:22:45 2009-10-26 10:22:45 open open kendra-bastille1 inherit 1379 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/kendra-bastille1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata kendra-bastille3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1384 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 10:24:54 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/kendra-bastille3.jpg 1384 2009-10-26 10:24:54 2009-10-26 10:24:54 open open kendra-bastille3 inherit 1379 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/kendra-bastille3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata kendra-bastille2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1385 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 10:25:48 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/kendra-bastille2.jpg 1385 2009-10-26 10:25:48 2009-10-26 10:25:48 open open kendra-bastille2 inherit 1379 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/kendra-bastille2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata kendra-bastille21 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1387 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 10:26:57 +0000 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http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/joethumbnail.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata hdr1chdechambord http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1399 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:37:42 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr1chdechambord.jpg 1399 2009-10-30 00:37:42 2009-10-30 00:37:42 open open hdr1chdechambord inherit 517 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr1chdechambord.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata hdr2notredameatsunset http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1400 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:38:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr2notredameatsunset.jpg 1400 2009-10-30 00:38:44 2009-10-30 00:38:44 open open hdr2notredameatsunset inherit 517 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr2notredameatsunset.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata hdr3boulangerieguyot http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1401 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:41:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr3boulangerieguyot.jpg 1401 2009-10-30 00:41:26 2009-10-30 00:41:26 open open hdr3boulangerieguyot inherit 517 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr3boulangerieguyot.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata hdr4chateaudevincennes http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1402 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:42:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr4chateaudevincennes.jpg 1402 2009-10-30 00:42:33 2009-10-30 00:42:33 open open hdr4chateaudevincennes inherit 517 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr4chateaudevincennes.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata hdr5dahliavincennes http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1403 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:43:46 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr5dahliavincennes.jpg 1403 2009-10-30 00:43:46 2009-10-30 00:43:46 open open hdr5dahliavincennes inherit 517 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr5dahliavincennes.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata hdr5dahliavincennes1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1404 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:44:54 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr5dahliavincennes1.jpg 1404 2009-10-30 00:44:54 2009-10-30 00:44:54 open open hdr5dahliavincennes1 inherit 517 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/hdr5dahliavincennes1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Alternative viewing: France in HDR photography http://francerevisited.com/?p=1406 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:46:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=517 Since we are actually living in Paris for a year and not just vacationing and since the euro has now risen above $1.50, I was thinking of writing a very practical blog about where to go in Paris to get the most for your very thin dollar. I was going to include the cheapest supermarkets (Ed, Lydl), the best street markets (Belleville, Barbes), the best place to buy grains and spices (Passage Brody), the best place to get peanut butter (Make it yourself—peanuts, salt, a little oil, a food processor), the cheapest haircuts (Belleville, Menilmontant), the best place for bread (that would take a lifetime of study), the best free cultural attractions (the Musee Carnavalet), the best flea market (Hotel de Ville), and the best place to buy shotgun ammunition (Decathlon), but frankly, I have been spending most of my time teaching myself a new photographic technique called high dynamic range (HDR) photography, and although I am far from an expert, I am going to write about that and show you some of the images I have created using the technique. [caption id="attachment_519" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Chateau de Chambord. Photo JW"]Chateau de Chambord. Photo JW[/caption] HDR photography might be better called “HDR digital processing” because there is nothing out of the ordinary about the actual photographs you capture with your digital camera, and virtually any digital camera is capable of capturing images that can be used to process HDR photographs. HDR photography is a way of taking several shots of the same subject and merging them into one image that, ideally, will retain the best aspects of each photograph. It thereby greatly increases the range of tones and colors that are visible in the finished HDR. The final result looks like the colorful and vivid post cards you see for sale all over Paris. [caption id="attachment_520" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Notre-Dame at sunset. Photo JW"]Notre-Dame at sunset. Photo JW[/caption] The different shots that are used to make HDR images are normally shot at drastically different exposures, a technique that is called “bracketing” in photography jargon. Typically you would work with at least three shots of the same subject. One of the shots would be exposed correctly for the given lighting conditions, one would be significantly overexposed and the other would be significantly underexposed. In order to successfully align these shots into a single, sharp photograph they have to be shot from exactly the same position with exactly the same zoom setting. The only really reliable way to do this is by using a sturdy tripod, but HDR programs usually come with alignment tools that are able to correct for minor differences in the camera position between the different shots. I have found that, in a pinch, I can capture usable HDR images by bracing my camera against a stationary object like a lamp post or a Velib pay station and very carefully aligning the focal marks in my viewfinder with some feature in the scene I am shooting. This works best with a subject like a building where you can line up with something like the corner of a window frame. [caption id="attachment_521" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Boulangerie Guyot. Photo JW"]Boulangerie Guyot. Photo JW[/caption] You have to pick your subject carefully when capturing images for an HDR because there is always some time lapse between the different exposures even if you are using a camera with an automatic bracketing feature. Consequently, it is rather difficult to produce HDR images of a subject containing moving objects. HDR photography is notorious for producing vivid and dramatic images of skies, but on a windy day, I have found that the clouds often move too quickly to be correctly aligned when trying to produce an HDR photograph. The slight movement of the clouds between exposures leaves them with rather nervous-looking, multiple edges that do not translate into attractive images. [caption id="attachment_522" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Chateau de Vincennes. Photo JW"]Chateau de Vincennes[/caption] In addition to a digital camera and a tripod, you will need a computer with an HDR image-making program in order to produce these vivid images. I have used two HDR programs that are available as free downloads. One has the unpronounceable name, Qtpfsgui, and the other one is called FDR Tools Basic. Although the graphic structures of these two programs are quite different, they both have essentially the same features. The steps to creating an HDR image are as follows: 1.    Capture multiple images of a single subject. 2.    Download images to your HDR program. 3.    Align the images. 4.    Create the HDR image. 5.    Tone map the image. Without getting too technical, I must mention that true HDR images are not viewable on normal computer screens because they contain much more information than can be displayed on a monitor. Consequently, if you wish to view them on your computer, you have to convert them back into low dynamic range images (LDR’s), but even so, a much greater range of visual information will be contained in the final image. The process by which the HDR is converted back into an LDR is called “tone mapping”. Each HDR program offers different tone mapping algorithms that can produce drastically different results. 6.    Edit the image. Both programs I have tried contain some basic editing features along with the HDR generating tools, but I normally give my HDR images a final tweaking using Photoshop Elements 7 or some other dedicated photo editing software. An enormous amount of information about HDR photography is available on some of the many internet sites dedicated to digital photography. Of course, like any technical/artistic field, there are people who are REALLY, DEEPLY INTO THIS STUFF! I have been able to find HDR images on the internet that are so amazing they have caused my brain to leak out my ears!  Some of them use as many as sixteen images to produce a single HDR! That being said, I am reasonably satisfied with the results I have been able to obtain thus far with some basic knowledge and adequate equipment, including those images in this blog post. [caption id="attachment_524" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Dahlia, Bois de Vincennes. Photo JW"]Dahlia, Bois de Vincennes. Photo JW[/caption] ]]> 1406 2009-10-30 00:46:53 2009-10-30 00:46:53 open open exploring-france-in-hdr-photography publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock _edit_last _edit_lock Destination Brittany, part 4: tu, vous, and ma promenade http://francerevisited.com/?p=695 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 17:37:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=695   Just before the party on Saturday evening another guest arrived at the neighbor’s house where Henri and I were staying. He was a young actor from Paris and he, too, knocked at the door empty handed except for his overnight bag. Our host was gracious enough to ignore the absence of preliminaries, as she had with us, but we were surprised to find that within five minutes the two of them were tutoying each other whereas after nearly 24 hours as guests—quite good guests, I might add—Henri and I were still addressing her with a noble vous. The actor was young, relatively speaking, and also relatively cute, so it was expected that with one look at him she would readily switch to the more playful tu. Still, it made me and Henri feel that we had approached our host wrong from the start. But it was too late to do much about that now. For Henri it was inconceivable to tutoie a host, particularly without bringing a gift. My own hesitation was somewhat different. There isn’t actually much difference between tu and vous during a weekend at the coast these days unless you live in the world of Proust, or, as in Henri’s case, Madame de Pompadour, but once I’ve been vouvoying for any length of time, say two minutes, I have trouble initiating the switch to the less formal tu. As an English-speaker I naturally prefer tu because its conjugations are easier to pronounce in the more academic tenses, but I have trouble saying, “On peut se tutoyer, n'est ce pas?”/ “We can tutoyer each other, n’est ce pas?” One hears that all the time at dinner parties, but something about asking someone’s permission to be friendly disturbs me for it makes the contact seem very intimate, as though you’re asking for a kiss, whereas you just want the person to pass the bread. So I either start off with tu at the risk of shocking with my informality the person I’ve just met or, sometime during the conversation, I late slip in a tu as though by a mistake and hope that the person responds in kind. In the end, asking someone’s permission to tutoie them is like asking someone you don’t know to be your friend on Facebook: It’s harmless enough and doesn’t really signify anything, until the person says no. Anyway, tu or vous, the fact remained that none of us had brought a house gift for our host, so the morning after the party Henri and the actor immediately went out to find one. There are two reasons why I wasn’t asked to go along: First, because Henri was looking for some informality with the actor himself and second because I wasn’t around, having already gone out for a walk. Early in the morning the path above the coast of Dinard is a great place for a jog, if you don’t mind running on concrete, but by 10:30/11 a.m. when people are out on their morning promenade, the joggers ruin the leisurely atmosphere of the walkway. Sweating profusely and wearing their mean, jiggling jogger’s face, aggravated in its intensity by the fact that they feel the strollers are in their way, it takes some restraint to keep from pushing them onto the rocks below. Dinard has a magnificent seaside walk that it’s impossible to stroll it without feeling that jogging should be outlawed in certain places… and that no more than four people should allowed even to walk together at the same time. In short, it’s the kind of place that makes you feel like a soulful elitist, even when you’re only a weekend guest at the home of someone you vousvoie and didn’t even bring a gift. Dinard developed across the estuary from Saint Malo as a resort destination for British visitors. The British began arriving in 1836 and by the end of the 19th century had greatly assisted in funding the main resort town of northern Brittany. Ferries to Saint Malo from Portsmouth and Weymouth continue to ensure a heavy English presence along the coast. It is to northern Brittany what Deauville is to Normandy, though Deauville, being easier to reach from Paris or from England, is far more popular for a weekending outside of summer. The photos in this post are all from the seaside promenade. You see in them the craggy cost, the choppy seascape, the luxury villas on the cliff, the band of the town’s main beach (the casino is nearby), the seawater pool that fills with high tide, and Saint Malo across the estuary. I had a beautiful walk. I returned to my host’s house just before noon so as to get ready for brunch. There was now a tall bouquet in the living room. Upstairs, Henri told me that I owed him 27 euros. ]]> 695 2009-10-31 17:37:10 2009-10-31 17:37:10 open open destination-brittany-part-4-tu-vous-and-ma-promenade publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 52 jean-pierre.soutric@fourseasons.com 83.206.31.210 2009-11-06 07:38:44 2009-11-06 07:38:44 1 0 0 53 parisrevisited@aol.com http://www.francerevisited.com 93.16.93.59 2009-11-06 08:39:22 2009-11-06 08:39:22 1 0 0 dinard1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=697 Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:33:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard1.jpg 697 2009-11-01 17:33:16 2009-11-01 17:33:16 open open dinard1 inherit 695 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dinard2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=698 Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:33:43 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard2.jpg 698 2009-11-01 17:33:43 2009-11-01 17:33:43 open open dinard2 inherit 695 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dinard3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=699 Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:34:05 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard3.jpg 699 2009-11-01 17:34:05 2009-11-01 17:34:05 open open dinard3 inherit 695 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dinard4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=700 Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:34:34 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard4.jpg 700 2009-11-01 17:34:34 2009-11-01 17:34:34 open open dinard4 inherit 695 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dinard5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=701 Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:35:02 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard5.jpg 701 2009-11-01 17:35:02 2009-11-01 17:35:02 open open dinard5 inherit 695 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dinard6 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=702 Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:35:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard6.jpg 702 2009-11-01 17:35:30 2009-11-01 17:35:30 open open dinard6 inherit 695 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinard6.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dinan1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=714 Sun, 08 Nov 2009 23:52:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinan1.jpg 714 2009-11-08 23:52:10 2009-11-08 23:52:10 open open dinan1 inherit 712 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinan1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dinan2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=715 Sun, 08 Nov 2009 23:52:43 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinan2.jpg 715 2009-11-08 23:52:43 2009-11-08 23:52:43 open open dinan2 inherit 712 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinan2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dinan3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=716 Sun, 08 Nov 2009 23:53:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinan3.jpg 716 2009-11-08 23:53:16 2009-11-08 23:53:16 open open dinan3 inherit 712 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinan3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dinan31 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=717 Sun, 08 Nov 2009 23:53:55 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinan31.jpg 717 2009-11-08 23:53:55 2009-11-08 23:53:55 open open dinan31 inherit 712 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/dinan31.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Destination Brittany, final part (5): The return home http://francerevisited.com/?p=712 Sun, 08 Nov 2009 23:54:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=712 We would be in Paris in about six, actually, because we stopped to visit the town of Dinan, a 20-minute drive from Dinard inland along the Rance River. Due to their proximity and the similarity of their names, no one who lives outside of Brittany can ever remember which is Dinard and which is Dinan. Dinard is the resort town along the coast; Dinan is the medieval town that’s inland. An easier way to remember is that Dinard is the place you go because your rich friends tell you to while Dinan is the place you go because your guidebook tells you to. Henri and I had really been looking forward to going to Dinan, he because the ramparts of Dinan speak volumes about the efforts of the Duchy of Brittany to remain independent of the French Crown, I because I thought I could get an interesting article out of it. The Blue Guide I had brought along calls it “one of the most beautiful towns in Brittany.” The dark stone towns of Brittany do indeed have a brutal beauty and a medieval timeliness. And Dinan’s old town is so well preserved, along with intact ramparts and a view of the Rance River, that it’s easy to understand why the guidebooks speak so highly of it. But Henri and I were both disappointed. Henri wouldn’t say he was disappointed since failing to appreciate a town that was graced by a duke is bad for his self-esteem as it calls into question the very essence of his aspirations to live like one. But I could tell he wasn’t into the place because he only asked me once to take his picture, and in that picture, standing on a rampart overlooking the Rance (the view in this photo), his expression is as hard and cold as the very stone of those ramparts. Perhaps it was the change of weather—after 48 hours of luxuriously clear skies the clouds of northwest France suddenly arrived. (Note the difference between the top photo and the others.) But it may actually have been the town itself at 5 o’clock on a Sunday afternoon in September. The old streets themselves felt like a weekend winding down, with stale kouign-amans (carmelized milkbread cakes) and fars bretons (pudding cakes) in the bakery windows, the sidestreets empty, and people milling about the main streets in the hopes that the old stones would tell them something about their past or perhaps about the direction of their lives, but the stones had nothing to say but “go home.” It’s times like this when you realize that your guidebook can only take you so far and that the rest is up to you. Forty-eight hours may not sound like a lot of travel, but it was indeed time to go home. We had a four-hour drive ahead of us. Before leaving we stopped for a drink a café on a grand old square that’s now mostly a vast parking lot. Our table was near an equestrian statue of Bertrand du Guesclin, a 14th-century warrior and nobleman from Brittany. Henri tried to tell me about the man but either his heart wasn’t in it or he really didn’t know himself why the guy deserved a statue in Dinan. In any case I took the wheel and steered us onto the highway and didn’t let go, except to get gas, until I dropped myself off in front of my door. Henri made a feeble attempt to have me drive him home and return the car myself in the morning, but it was too late for negotiations. Post Script Six weeks after we returned from our trip to Brittany Henri called to say that a speeding ticket had arrived in the mail. One of us had been driving 57 km (35 mi.) per hour in a 50 km (31 mi) per hour zone—that one of us being me. It had happened on our way to Brittany, near Fougères. I’d suspected at the time if I’d been flashed by the radar post but I hadn’t said anything because Henri was sleeping at the time, and rather than disturb his peace, as well as my own, while driving through one of those plane-tree bordered routes that make driving in the French countryside so pleasant and dangerous, I’d continued on. I naturally told him that I would pay the ticket—90 euros, about $135, argh!—but Henri would have none of that. He insisted on paying half. He’d received the ticket as the one whose credit card and address we’d used in renting the car, which also meant that the was the one to get the points deduced from his license. I offered to plead guilty to the authorities so as to restore his points, but Henri declined, saying that ever since he got rid of his car last year he doesn’t drive much anyway. Gotta hand it to Henri, the man knows proper etiquette.]]> 712 2009-11-08 23:54:41 2009-11-08 23:54:41 open open destination-brittany-final-part-5-the-return-home publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock blue-foot-mushroomfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1411 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:43:48 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/blue-foot-mushroomfr.jpg 1411 2009-11-15 22:43:48 2009-11-15 22:43:48 open open blue-foot-mushroomfr inherit 529 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/blue-foot-mushroomfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata shaggy-manefr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1413 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:45:01 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/shaggy-manefr.jpg 1413 2009-11-15 22:45:01 2009-11-15 22:45:01 open open shaggy-manefr inherit 529 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/shaggy-manefr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 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http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/magpie-inky-cap-not-ediblefr.jpg 1416 2009-11-15 22:49:16 2009-11-15 22:49:16 open open magpie-inky-cap-not-ediblefr inherit 529 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/magpie-inky-cap-not-ediblefr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata inky-capsfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1417 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:50:24 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/inky-capsfr.jpg 1417 2009-11-15 22:50:24 2009-11-15 22:50:24 open open inky-capsfr inherit 529 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/inky-capsfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata parasol-mushroomfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1418 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:51:21 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/parasol-mushroomfr.jpg 1418 2009-11-15 22:51:21 2009-11-15 22:51:21 open open parasol-mushroomfr inherit 529 0 attachment 0 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http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1423 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:54:38 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/inky-capsfr1.jpg 1423 2009-11-15 22:54:38 2009-11-15 22:54:38 open open inky-capsfr1 inherit 529 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/inky-capsfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata parasol-mushroomfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1424 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:55:45 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/parasol-mushroomfr2.jpg 1424 2009-11-15 22:55:45 2009-11-15 22:55:45 open open parasol-mushroomfr2 inherit 529 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/parasol-mushroomfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata harvested-parasol-mushroomfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1425 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:56:31 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/harvested-parasol-mushroomfr2.jpg 1425 2009-11-15 22:56:31 2009-11-15 22:56:31 open open harvested-parasol-mushroomfr2 inherit 529 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/harvested-parasol-mushroomfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata On a train from Paris to Rome http://francerevisited.com/?p=723 Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:10:56 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=723 came to Paris in June seeking inspiration for his songwriting? Well, this fall, freshly inspired and with new songs in his repertoire, Jordan has taken the next step in his career and has been playing in bars in Jerusalem. He's been performing his own songs and various covers accompanied by talented guitarist and assistant arranger Yuri Stolov. One of the songs they've been playing is “On a Train from Paris to Rome,” which Jordan was working on in Paris and for which I wrote the lyrics. One of these days we’ll get around to making a real video for it, but in the meantime you can watch and listen to a recent practice performance of the song at the Putin Bar in Jerusalem. I’m actually not a big fan of this version since I find its ending is a bit of a downer (Jordan disagrees), Yuri’s fingering sometimes makes it sound as though the train is headed to Spain (Yuri disagrees), and the sound quality, though decent for bar, isn’t great, especially regarding the lyrics, which I’m sure you’ll all want to listen to very attentively. Also, you can't see Jordan’s face from behind his shadow-mask. But I'm just the lyricist. So here it is, Jordan Zell and Yuri Stolov playing “On a Train from Paris to Rome,” a travel song by Jordan Zell (music) and yours truly (lyrics), take 1. ]]> 723 2009-11-23 00:10:56 2009-11-23 00:10:56 open open on-a-train-from-paris-to-rome publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock breteuilblog http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=728 Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:25:27 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/breteuilblog.jpg 728 2009-12-10 19:25:27 2009-12-10 19:25:27 open open breteuilblog inherit 727 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/breteuilblog.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dianna-ncc http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=729 Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:26:03 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/dianna-ncc.jpg 729 2009-12-10 19:26:03 2009-12-10 19:26:03 open open dianna-ncc inherit 727 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/dianna-ncc.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata dianna-ncc1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=730 Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:26:39 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/dianna-ncc1.jpg 730 2009-12-10 19:26:39 2009-12-10 19:26:39 open open dianna-ncc1 inherit 727 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/dianna-ncc1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata U.S. National Constitution Center celebrates European nobility http://francerevisited.com/?p=727 Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:37:24 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=727
I had lunch this fall with the Count of Breteuil, after which he gave me a tour of his ancestral home, the Chateau de Breteuil, 21 miles southeast of Paris in the Chevreuse Valley. It was a fascinating, friendly, informative afternoon in the company of a man of easy-going charms who introduced himself with an “Enchanté, call me Henri.”
[caption id="attachment_738" align="alignleft" width="288" caption="Henri-Francois de Breteuil in front of his home, Chateau de Breteuil. Photo GLK"]Henri-Francois de Breteuil in front of his home, Chateau de Breteuil. Photo GLK[/caption] I’m fascinated, both personally and professionally, by the way individuals, place, culture, and history fit together and/or play off each other. Sometime this winter I’ll get around to writing about my encounter with Henri-Francois de Breteuil and the rewards of visiting his home, which is open to the public and gives a glimpse into the interplay of historical nobility and contemporary culture. But I’m in the U.S. this month, where aristocracy, past and present, scarcely enters my mind. Until I was in Philadelphia the other day, that is. Walking through the historical city of the Founding Fathers, by Independence Hall and the Liberty Ball, I was shocked to see posters for an exhibition currently at the adjacent National Constitution Center entitled “Diana: A Celebration.” The National Constitution Center, is, to quote its mission, “an independent, nonpartisan, nonprofit organization dedicated to increasing public understanding of the U.S. Constitution and the ideas and values it represents… [and] serves as a museum, an education center, and a forum for debate on constitutional issues.” How Princess Diana serves that purpose is beyond me, and it’s clearly beyond the presidents, former and current, of the National Constitution Center itself since their explanation for the show is strikingly flimsy. In October, when the show opened, the NCC’s then-President and CEO Linda E. Johnson, expressed the hope that this exhibit would “have broad appeal, which will allow the Center to expand its audience and, in turn, introduce more visitors to the remarkable stories of ‘We the People’ celebrated here every day.” In short, an acknowledgement that Diana has no relation to the Constitution but promises to bring in visitors willing to offer up a $23 entrance fee and fill their shopping carts of Diana trinkets to muscle up NCC’s coffers. This fall a new NCC president and CEO, David Eisner, took over, and he was apparently equally clueless as to the link between the disturbed and tragic princess and the U.S. Constitution. “This stirring tribute to Princess Diana,” he claimed earlier this month, “is a way of exploring America’s historical relationship and fascination with aristocracy.” [caption id="attachment_739" align="alignright" width="360" caption="National Constitution Center. Photo GLK"]National Constitution Center. Photo GLK[/caption] Bullshit! Whatever sympathy or regard or celebrity-awe one feels for Diana, celebrating her in no way explores America’s historical relationship with aristocracy but simply celebrates celebrity. Back in France, anyone with an ear open to cult and culture of history hears debates about national treasures such as Versailles trying to balance the interests of historians and preservationists, the need to draw paying visitors, and the desire to keep Versailles “alive.” Last year, a wonderful occasion for such a debate was the decision of curators to display kitsch contemporary works by Jeff Koons, including an enormous, pink, balloon-like dog, against the exuberant prima-kitsch of 17th and 18th –century royal apartment. I didn’t care for the dog, and Versailles is less significant today than the U.S. Constitution, but it was a worthy debate. Yet Diana at the NCC isn’t even debate material let alone a teaching moment or anything else warranting the show here. In fact, the premise of the show (I did not in fact go but read the press kit) makes a mockery of the public that the NCC is intended to serve, telling us: Let’s face it, you’re too stupid to understand anything about the Constitution so come over here where we can show you some teary and feel-good fluff: Diana’s wedding gown; dresses and gowns designed by Versace, Valentino, etc.; Elton John/Bernie Taupin’s song about yet another dead blonde; Diana’s eulogy from her brother; home movies of her childhood; brunch with Diana’s personal chef on Dec. 20; and did we mention that we have gift shop? The U.S. Constitution in all that? Nada! But she was such a humanitarian, some will cry—or, as a man who had just spend $140 on Diana paraphernalia for his shrine back home said, “You just don’t like her.” Perhaps, but more to the point I like the idea of discussing, understanding and appreciating Constitution. I’ve got nothing against a Diana show but why here? Call her a humanist rather than a humanitarian and her story may be worthy of debate regarding the Constitution, say that she wanted a ban on bearing arms rather than on landmines and you can get a good argument going, but celebrating Diana’s celebrity offers the public nothing but ignorance about the Constitution. America’s historical relationship with aristocracy would be more appropriately explored through a show featuring Queen Elisabeth II, the Emperor of Japan, the Shah of Iran, the King of Thailand, or even the Count of Breteuil. We have nothing to learn from Diana regarding the Constitution except how low the NCC will stoop to draw visitors. Nevertheless, my personal distaste for the premise of this show is on the wrong side of history. I came to that sad conclusion yesterday when reading the syndicated “Today In History” column in a local newspaper in New Jersey. Among the “highlights in history” for Dec. 9 was noted: “In 1941: China declared war on Japan, Germany and Italy.” “In 1990: Poles elected Solidarity labor union founder Lech Walesa president in free elections.” “In 1992: Prince Charles and Princess Diana of Britain announced they were separating but had no plans for divorce.” “In 2001: The United States disclosed a video in which Osama bin Laden said he was pleasantly surprised by the extent of damage from the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks in New York, Washington and Pennsylvanis.” If Diana’s separation from Charles with “no plans for divorce” can earn a place in the above list then maybe that Versace dress does have something to do with the Constitution. If anyone can tell me which article I’d much obliged. Diana: A Celebration at the National Constitution Center, Oct. 2, 2009-Jan. 3, 2010, 525 Arch Street, Independence Mall, Philadelphia, PA. www.constitutioncenter.org.]]>
727 2009-12-10 19:37:24 2009-12-10 19:37:24 open open us-national-constitution-center-celebrates-european-nobility publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 54 Writers.Clearinghouse@comcast.net http://www.Junto.blogspot.com 76.116.249.140 2009-12-15 21:48:44 2009-12-15 21:48:44 1 0 0
Guest Bloggers too busy living http://francerevisited.com/?p=553 Tue, 22 Dec 2009 01:39:23 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=553 Va-nu-pieds recently saw written in snow on a car window: Vive la vie! Actually, when I take a few weeks off from writing I like to think of it as researching rather than living for the simple reason that I can write off researching whereas I can't write off living. But since Guest Bloggers aren't paid by France Revisited I guess they're stuck with living. Let's hope then that if they're simply living that they're at least living it up... and that we'll soon get to read about it on this page. P.S. Guest Bloggers wanted. Click here if interested and here if serious. - GLK]]> 553 2009-12-22 01:39:23 2009-12-22 01:39:23 open open guest-bloggers-too-busy-living publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock diconstitutionfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=734 Mon, 28 Dec 2009 03:03:21 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/diconstitutionfr.jpg 734 2009-12-28 03:03:21 2009-12-28 03:03:21 open open diconstitutionfr inherit 727 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/diconstitutionfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata breteuilblog1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=737 Mon, 28 Dec 2009 03:08:59 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/breteuilblog1.jpg 737 2009-12-28 03:08:59 2009-12-28 03:08:59 open open breteuilblog1 inherit 727 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/breteuilblog1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata breteuilblog2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=738 Mon, 28 Dec 2009 03:10:20 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/breteuilblog2.jpg 738 2009-12-28 03:10:20 2009-12-28 03:10:20 open open breteuilblog2 inherit 727 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/breteuilblog2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata diconstitutionfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=739 Mon, 28 Dec 2009 03:11:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/diconstitutionfr1.jpg 739 2009-12-28 03:11:44 2009-12-28 03:11:44 open open diconstitutionfr1 inherit 727 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/diconstitutionfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata icecanal1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=743 Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:37:19 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal1.jpg 743 2010-01-10 15:37:19 2010-01-10 15:37:19 open open icecanal1 inherit 742 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata icecanal2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=745 Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:39:01 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal2.jpg 745 2010-01-10 15:39:01 2010-01-10 15:39:01 open open icecanal2 inherit 742 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata icecanal3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=746 Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:39:31 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal3.jpg 746 2010-01-10 15:39:31 2010-01-10 15:39:31 open open icecanal3 inherit 742 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata icecanal4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=747 Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:40:06 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal4.jpg 747 2010-01-10 15:40:06 2010-01-10 15:40:06 open open icecanal4 inherit 742 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata icecanal41 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=748 Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:41:27 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal41.jpg 748 2010-01-10 15:41:27 2010-01-10 15:41:27 open open icecanal41 inherit 742 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal41.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata icecanal5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=750 Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:42:34 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal5.jpg 750 2010-01-10 15:42:34 2010-01-10 15:42:34 open open icecanal5 inherit 742 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata icecanal6 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=751 Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:43:05 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal6.jpg 751 2010-01-10 15:43:05 2010-01-10 15:43:05 open open icecanal6 inherit 742 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/icecanal6.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Does size matter on the ice canal? http://francerevisited.com/?p=742 Sun, 10 Jan 2010 15:47:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=742 It’s been unusually cold in Paris, mostly a dry cold though. It’s the damp cold that normally marks the Paris winter so, warmly dressed, it’s nearly a pleasure to be in the cold outside. It’s inside that things get dicey. I returned to Paris a few days ago after six weeks in the U.S. and have since spent a good amount of time winterizing the apartment: hanging curtains, plugging spaces on the edges of doors and windows, buying an electric heater. The elderly woman downstairs used to heat a lot in winter, I could tell by the warmth of my parquet, but she now goes south for much of the winter. And a guy in his 20s recently moved next door and doesn’t need to turn on his own heat very often since most nights he warms his apartment by having a dozen friends over for a rave party. I’m left to heating my own space. So much for community. The best place to find community these days is in the cafes and bars of the residential neighborhoods. They’ve been quite crowded, I’ve noticed, these past few days and evenings, smokers swarming by the doorways. Crisis, what crisis? I love cafes in winter, the way people come in rubbing the cold off their hands. There’s more of a community feel to a café in winter than in summer. In summer everyone wants a piece personal joy, their own proverbial spot in the sun. You tolerate your neighbors at surrounding tables in summer, but other than the usual sexual attraction you’d rather have nothing to do with them. In winter, though, there’s more of a feel that we’re all in this together. On especially cold winter days, as in rain storms in other seasons, the café becomes a kind of genteel bomb shelter. It’ll pass, we think, or we’ll soon go out and confront the elements, but in the meantime un autre, s’il vous plaît. I just got home from having coffee with a friend and I take back what I said a paragraph ago. There isn’t much of a sense of community in the café after all. I now think that the difference between the winter café and the summer café is that in winter Parisians have even less of a sense of personal space than they do in summer. Their sweaters, scarves, and coats not only put a damper on the aforementioned sexual attraction but also make people unaware of where their space ends and others' begin. Add to that the shopping bags now that the annual winter sales period is underway and oh the looks you get when you ask a woman to take her ankle-length duvet coat and H&M bags from an otherwise available chair so that you can sit down! Sometimes the bomb shelter feels less genteel, but once you and your friend have got your space it’s café society as holders of McStarbucks Cards can only dream about, even at McStarbucks in Paris. Yesterday, after insulating window cracks in the morning, I went out to take photos in my neighborhood along the canal. There were at least a dozen people taking pictures within the same 300-yard stretch of the canal during the same 30-minute grey-day photo shoot, including a couple of guys with long lenses, one with a tripod. The thought that most of those photographers were going to put their pictures on blogs accompanied or not by text about the cold in Paris and the ice on the canal was rather disheartening. It’s one thing to compete for elbow room in a café, it’s quite another to think that we’re all competing for attention on the internet. Truth be told, the canal is not a highly photogenic place. Oh, it’s a nice place to live, to hang out, to stroll, to café-sit, and, when the weather’s right, to picnic, but its color combination of dark green, grey, beige, brown, and black, with little sky in the frame and an uninspiring mishmash of architecture alongside, make the canal an awkward place to photograph. We all pointed our cameras towards the ice in the hopes that that would be evocative enough. I stood on a bridge by a guy with a long lens to take the shot above of gull prints in the dusting of snow on the ice. The guy tried not show that he was annoyed by my “copying” him, but when I then followed him over to shoot a view from the side he gave me the same look as the women whose space I invaded in the café today. Why should his blog have better photos than mine just because he’s got a bigger lens? The canal may not be very photogenic but the Eiffel Tower always is. That explains why one occasionally comes across some stunning photographs of the Eiffel Tower. Problem is, it’s hard to make the Eiffel Tower look like anything but the Eiffel Tower, by which I mean that it rarely evokes any other thought than: That’s the Eiffel Tower, I’ve been there (or I want to be there). That’s why I love the joy that comes across in Va-nu-pieds’ Eiffel Tower photo that you can see by clicking here. In it he managed to capture the sense of ecstasy at coming upon a distant view of the Iron Lady. I’m honored that he gave me first dibs to use it on France Revisited’s Photography Blog. A close look at the shot shows that he must have taken the picture in summer because you can see the sandal tan lines on his foot (unless those are shadows from the beams), but the Eiffel Tower is timeless enough that, unlike in my apartment, a difference of 50 degrees Fahrenheit doesn’t matter. One more winter photographic note: Not being much of a photographer myself, I do occasionally get lucky, as in this winter homage to Claude Monet that I shot a year ago.]]> 742 2010-01-10 15:47:26 2010-01-10 15:47:26 open open cold-drafts-and-the-ice-canal publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last Mano Solo has died. If you don't know his work check it out. http://francerevisited.com/?p=1437 Sun, 10 Jan 2010 16:09:04 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=558 check out his songs on Deezer. For those who read French, here's some biographical information. Here's a video of one of his songs found on Youtube: ]]> 1437 2010-01-10 16:09:04 2010-01-10 16:09:04 open open mano-solo-has-died-if-you-dont-know-his-work-check-it-out publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock jan27-sinbad http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1443 Wed, 27 Jan 2010 23:02:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/jan27-sinbad.jpg 1443 2010-01-27 23:02:33 2010-01-27 23:02:33 open open jan27-sinbad inherit 1446 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/jan27-sinbad.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Carnaval approaches in Nice http://francerevisited.com/?p=1446 Wed, 27 Jan 2010 23:06:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=566 By Vincent Mooney It's January and my friend Michael is outside cutting wood. It's t-shirt weather, the street shines like a pretty stone in the bright light; already there's a feeling that summer isn't far away. I went walking on the beach yesterday with Anna and the waves swooshed up to our shoes as we laughed and jumped aside. There were a group of people having a picnic for New Year, keeping the seagulls happy with scraps here and there. It's hard to think of a better place to be right now. No crowds, space to move around the streets and shops, a sense that we're all getting ready for something exciting. My beloved grandmother got me thinking and dreaming of Nice when I was very young. She would tell me it was always sunny and warm, and maybe someday I would live there. My grandmother always told me things like she believed I could do them. Michael is finished cutting and is putting up shelves. I gaze at the sky and everything seems right. What is it about this place that is so magical, so many moments that just click; from a smile on the street to being greeted with a kiss or a warm handshake. Taking time to talk in a café, chatting to the owner in the bakery. No rush. I've never seen anybody rushing in Nice. There must be a law against it written and forgotten in a dusty old book in the town hall. Anna’s cat is called Sinbad. He's a bit of a pirate. Apart from biting and scratching everyone he doesn't do much. He sometimes thinks he's a rottweiler and growls at the door when strangers arrive. Sinbad and his pirate attitude go hand in hand with this town. He doesn't care what anybody thinks of him. Does his own thing, at his own pace. His life is about whatever is most enjoyable in the moment. No fuss. The complicated stuff can wait. "Carnaval" starts in two weeks. The "Bataille des Fleurs" leaves happy crowds strolling on the Promenade laden with fresh blooms. This joyous parade of nature's beauty announces winter’s end and draws back the curtain on the glorious summer that awaits. The processions are a tapestry of colours; thrilling sounds and the fireworks display on the final day seems to bring all of Nice together to celebrate. The King of the Carnival, a huge papier maché creation, is ceremoniously burned on a boat in the Baie des Anges. Sinbad would heartily approve. Life here is focused on food and fun. Most people develop a strong resistance to hard work once they're here. Total immunity is possible with time. Michael is finished putting up the shelves. There will be plenty of time to read the books on them, and plenty of visitors who will love Nice so much they'll stop just to talk about how it moves and delights them. Nowhere's perfect. Nice isn't perfect. Some days, it just feels perfect. -Vincent Mooney is a Irishman living in Nice. He is the owner of Auzuromantique, a shop selling rare books, less rare books, and art. www.azuromantique.com ]]> 1446 2010-01-27 23:06:37 2010-01-27 23:06:37 open open carnaval-approaches-in-nice publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 33 dawson.amanda@gmail.com 12.54.246.2 2010-01-31 17:26:22 2010-01-31 17:26:22 1 0 0 34 slsommers@wanadoo.fr 64.183.11.146 2010-02-01 03:43:38 2010-02-01 03:43:38 1 0 0 Champagne article in Travelworld Magazine http://francerevisited.com/?p=761 Wed, 27 Jan 2010 23:34:10 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=761 ]]> 761 2010-01-27 23:34:10 2010-01-27 23:34:10 open open champagne-article-in-travelworld-magazine publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock Crepes, tourtisseaux, and groundhogs http://francerevisited.com/?p=766 Tue, 02 Feb 2010 23:45:24 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=766 Crepe Day in France as well as in other countries with crepe traditions, such as Belgium and Switzerland. Americans think of it as Groundhog Day. Crepes and groundhogs both mark the midpoint between the winter solstice and the spring equinox. The day’s Catholic name is la Chandeleur in France, in recognition of the candles (chandelles) that are/were brought to the church in remembrance of the day when baby Jesus was first brought to the Temple. Whatever you call it, Feb. 2 is the way the northern hemisphere acknowledges that winter is still here but that we’re all now ready for the countdown to spring. No, those aren’t crepes in the picture—they’re tourtisseaux, which are traditional Mardi Gras beignets or fritters and so also in the spirit of the season. Tourtisseaux come in different shapes: square, rectangular, diamond-shaped. They’re basically cheap, greasy donuts. They go by other names in other regions, but Vendée and Poitou, the area just south of the westernmost portion of the Loire Valley, call them tourtisseaux. I took that picture yesterday while in a village in Vendée, a few miles from the coast. Tourtisseaux may have been replaced by crepes in the bakery today, but more likely the bakery has both crepes and tourtisseaux. I’m not sure that the crepes are big sellers though since everyone in Vendée knows how to make a crepe at home but not everyone knows how to make a tourtisseau. Actually, they probably do know (it’s basically the same recipe just fried) but would rather flip a crepe at home than fritter a tourtisseau. I don’t know what’s in that bakery today because I’m now back in Paris, a town that isn’t big on tourtisseaux and their brother beignets. Parisians prefer more sophisticated sweets. Anyway, there’s better mark-up for the more convivial galette des Rois, the falky pastry tart with a frangipane filling (and a little token or effigy inside), that’s traditionally associated with Epiphany (Jan. 6). The “growing” season for the galette des Rois traditionally ends by mid-January, but with global warming and the Church’s absence of influence in the pastry industry of late, the season now extends throughout the month of January. When I returned from Vendée last night I found an envelope in front of my door, which could only mean that my neighbor was planning a party. He’s very nice about warning us neighbors about his parties so that in case we feel like going to sleep before 3am we have time to reserve a room at a hotel for the night. He even includes his phone number just in case we feel like giving it to the police so that they don’t have to drive over. This time his letter announced “une petite soirée pour fêter la chandeleur,” a little party to celebrate crepe day. I figured that had to be a euphemism for something because I couldn’t understand why someone would have a petite soirée to fete Groundhog Day on a Tuesday and if so why we would need to be warned about it. But I’ve been home all evening and I’ve barely heard a sound, so I imagine that they actually did spend the evening next door flipping crepes. My friend Didier, whom I was visiting in Vendée, made crepes for his family today. Years ago I asked him for his recipe because before then I was the only person in France who’d never made them. Here it is in French and in English. Didier’s crêpe recipe Mélanger : ½ kilo de farine 4 oeufs 1 petite boite de lait concentré non sucré 1 litre de lait frais Extrait de concentré de vanille Un peu de huile (2 cuillères à soupe) 1 verre de bière Laisser reposer 2-3 heures en dehors du frigo. Il est ensuite possible de mettre le mélange au frigo. Faire les crêpes. Mix together: 1 lb of flour 4 eggs 1 small can of (unsweetened) evaporated milk 1 quart of whole milk 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil 1 cup of beer Allow to rest for 2-3 hours out of the refrigerator. Mixture may then be placed in the refrigerator or used immediately. Make crepes. (Circumflex optional if you don’t have one handy)]]> 766 2010-02-02 23:45:24 2010-02-02 23:45:24 open open crepes-tourtisseaux-and-groundhogs publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 55 karinlynn68@yahoo.com http://analienparisienne.wordpress.com/ 82.226.120.56 2010-02-04 17:06:34 2010-02-04 17:06:34 1 0 0 56 parisrevisited@aol.com http://www.francerevisited.com 93.16.93.23 2010-02-04 17:26:45 2010-02-04 17:26:45 1 0 0 57 karinlynn68@yahoo.com http://analienparisienne.wordpress.com/ 82.226.120.56 2010-02-04 17:54:36 2010-02-04 17:54:36 galettes, which are mostly made of buckwheat flour. David Lebovitz also links to a galettes recipe at Chocolate & Zucchini from that post.]]> 1 0 0 tourtisseaux-vendee http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=767 Wed, 03 Feb 2010 02:09:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/tourtisseaux-vendee.jpg 767 2010-02-03 02:09:37 2010-02-03 02:09:37 open open tourtisseaux-vendee inherit 766 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/tourtisseaux-vendee.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata snow1-beachfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1448 Thu, 11 Feb 2010 23:35:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/snow1-beachfr.jpg 1448 2010-02-11 23:35:37 2010-02-11 23:35:37 open open snow1-beachfr inherit 1454 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/snow1-beachfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata snow2-bayfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1449 Thu, 11 Feb 2010 23:37:06 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/snow2-bayfr.jpg 1449 2010-02-11 23:37:06 2010-02-11 23:37:06 open open snow2-bayfr inherit 1454 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/snow2-bayfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata snow3-viewovernicefr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1450 Thu, 11 Feb 2010 23:38:25 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/snow3-viewovernicefr.jpg 1450 2010-02-11 23:38:25 2010-02-11 23:38:25 open open snow3-viewovernicefr inherit 1454 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/snow3-viewovernicefr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata snow4-portfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1451 Thu, 11 Feb 2010 23:39:39 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/snow4-portfr.jpg 1451 2010-02-11 23:39:39 2010-02-11 23:39:39 open open snow4-portfr inherit 1454 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/snow4-portfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Rare and magical snow in Nice http://francerevisited.com/?p=1454 Thu, 11 Feb 2010 23:43:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=572 Text and photos by Anna Rivini Snow in Nice, it's rare and magical. I put on my boots and go outside. [caption id="attachment_573" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Nice, the beach. Feb. 11, 2010. (c) Anna Rivini"]Nice, the beach. Feb. 11, 2010. (c) Anna Rivini[/caption] The snow is falling, children are happy. I decide to go in the Parc du Chateau, a very lovely place where you can see almost all Nice. [caption id="attachment_574" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Nice, a glimpse of the sea. Feb. 11, 2010. (c) Anna Rivini"]Nice, a glimpse of the sea. Feb. 11, 2010. (c) Anna Rivini[/caption] The view on the Baie des Anges and the white roofs of the Old Town is fantastic. [caption id="attachment_575" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="View over Nice and the Bay of Angels. Feb. 11, 2010. (c) Anna Rivini"]View over Nice and the Bay of Angels. Feb. 11, 2010. (c) Anna Rivini[/caption] Even with the snow, Nice keeps his beautiful colors, and reminds us that Carnaval is not far off. [caption id="attachment_576" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="View over the port. Feb. 11, 2010. (c) Anna Rivini"]View over the port. Feb. 11, 2010. (c) Anna Rivini[/caption] ]]> 1454 2010-02-11 23:43:53 2010-02-11 23:43:53 open open rare-and-magical-snow-in-nice publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last Teach a man to make stamps and he'll communicate with the world http://francerevisited.com/?p=773 Fri, 12 Feb 2010 23:50:57 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=773 Yesterday, though, I thought that something deeper had been going on at my post office over the years, that little by little the employees had come to see themselves (or been forced to see themselves) as offering a service to their clients and not simply as a cog in the machine of public service. Much, not all, of that has to do with the fact that that public service machine is about to become private. On March 1, La Poste will go from being a public company to being joint-stock company, albeit largely controlled by the State. The old dull, cranky, reliable postal worker is already gone, I thought as I entered the post office, since in recent times the employees have increasingly appeared to want to satisfy clients’ postal, packaging, or banking needs. Or in my case, the client’s photocopying needs. Now when you enter this post office there is someone at a lectern-like desk who, if you require help, will direct you to the appropriate station. I didn’t walk up to him but rather into the center of the post office and looked around. He came up to me to ask what I was looking for, something that had never before happened to me in this post office. I told him that I was looking for la photocopieuse. He then actually walked me over to the machine. When I saw that it required exact change, at 10 cents per copy, I asked where I could get change for a euro. His response: “You should try to come with exact change because we’d run out if we made change for everyone, but I think I have enough now, I’ll get it for you.” And so he did. I left with my copies made and a sense that my post office was now a warmer place and that on the planet of customer service I had just witnessed a small step for man, a giant leap for France.

* * *

Today I went to the same post office to mail a personal letter to the U.S.. I wanted an attractive stamp rather than a sticker from the scale machine so I went up to the Mailing-Letter-Packages desk. It was either a slow mail day or the new reconfiguration of the post office is actually effective because there was only one person ahead of me and he was soon gone. I handed my letter to the postal worker and said I needed stamps for the U.S.. She said, “I’ll show you were you can do that at the machine.” That seemed odd since I was at the stamp desk, but I suppose that she’d been told by her superior to show people how to do it at the scale machine, the postal version of “give a man a fish and he’ll have food for a day; show a man how to fish and he’ll never go hungry”: sell a man a stamp and he'll send a letter; teach a man to make stamps and he'll communicate with the world. I told her that I didn’t want machine stamps I want attractive stamps, des beaux timbres. At his she snickered, loudly, a veritable, uncontrollable laugh, into my face. She wasn’t laughing because I might have said something funny; in fact, her laugh had nothing to do with stamps themselves but rather in an attempt to put me down because I had preferred my solution to hers. I wasn’t following her script. In her script the customer tells her that he wants to send a letter and she comes to the rescue and teaches him how to use the machine so that he’ll “never go hungry.” Instead, here I was asking for my script to trump hers. You wouldn’t think wanting an attractive stamp instead of a basic machine stamp would be so offensive to an employee of the post office who can actually sell you stamps, but it is when that employee feels that you’re asking too much. It’s the same in the grocery store, in a café or even in the lobby in your apartment building: ask for something or initiate a conversation that is not in the other’s script—that goes beyond the boundaries he has set for himself—and that person will panic. Customer service employees are so easily destabilized by other people’s scripts that they become downright aggressive by line two. A wall is thrown up to say “You aren’t playing by my rules of what this situation is all about, so don’t expect me to cooperate easily.” Strange as it may seem, I had in some way insulted this postal employee’s sense of efficiency. She therefore immediately reverted to the stand-by French customer service attitude whereby the affronted employee mocks the client or tries to put him down in order to brandish her power, however insignificant that power may seem on the outside. In a sense, the fellow who provided me with change for the photocopieuse yesterday had done the same thing by insisting that he was making an exception by providing me with change and that next time I should come prepared. That may sound like a perfectly reasonable thing for him to say, and indeed he did so with courtesy, but he said it, I believe, because, too, had felt a need to assert his power, to let me know that in the future his script will trump mine. It may sound ridiculous that a person selling stamps would laugh at me for wanting to buy stamps, but that only goes to show how ingrained the old customer service mentality is despite a fourth restructuring of the post office in eleven years. Here, the rules are the rules, and those rules are very limited and circumscribed. Caveat emptor. My letter was heavy enough to required 1€70 in stamps, double the base rate of 85 cents for a letter overseas. Or as the postal employee put it, “1€70, because you’re over 20 grams. You can check that at the machine.” Perhaps I’ve been overanalyzing all this. Perhaps she just had a bug up her ass.]]>
773 2010-02-12 23:50:57 2010-02-12 23:50:57 open open teach-a-man-to-make-stamps-and-hell-communicate-with-the-world publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 58 nathalie.avignon@hotmail.com http://avignon-in-photos.blogspot.com/ 85.68.235.128 2010-02-22 20:13:59 2010-02-22 20:13:59 1 0 0 59 parisrevisited@aol.com http://www.francerevisited.com 93.16.93.23 2010-02-25 11:15:36 2010-02-25 11:15:36 1 0 0
postofficefr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=774 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 00:28:43 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/postofficefr1.jpg 774 2010-02-13 00:28:43 2010-02-13 00:28:43 open open postofficefr1 inherit 773 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/postofficefr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata postofficefr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=775 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 00:30:11 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/postofficefr3.jpg 775 2010-02-13 00:30:11 2010-02-13 00:30:11 open open postofficefr3 inherit 773 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/postofficefr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata postofficefr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=776 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 00:30:52 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/postofficefr2.jpg 776 2010-02-13 00:30:52 2010-02-13 00:30:52 open open postofficefr2 inherit 773 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/postofficefr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata postofficefr21 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=777 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 00:39:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/postofficefr21.jpg 777 2010-02-13 00:39:44 2010-02-13 00:39:44 open open postofficefr21 inherit 773 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/postofficefr21.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata postofficefr22 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=778 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 00:43:51 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/postofficefr22.jpg 778 2010-02-13 00:43:51 2010-02-13 00:43:51 open open postofficefr22 inherit 773 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/postofficefr22.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata feb12fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1455 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 12:00:21 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb12fr1.jpg 1455 2010-02-13 12:00:21 2010-02-13 12:00:21 open open feb12fr1 inherit 1460 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb12fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata feb12fr11 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1456 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 12:02:55 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb12fr11.jpg 1456 2010-02-13 12:02:55 2010-02-13 12:02:55 open open feb12fr11 inherit 1460 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb12fr11.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata feb12fr12 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1457 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 12:04:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb12fr12.jpg 1457 2010-02-13 12:04:40 2010-02-13 12:04:40 open open feb12fr12 inherit 1460 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb12fr12.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata feb12fr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1458 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 12:05:35 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb12fr2.jpg 1458 2010-02-13 12:05:35 2010-02-13 12:05:35 open open feb12fr2 inherit 1460 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb12fr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata The king arrives in Nice http://francerevisited.com/?p=1460 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 12:10:15 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=579 [caption id="attachment_582" align="alignnone" width="288" caption="Poster for the 2010 Carnaval de Nice"]Poster for the 2010 Carnaval de Nice[/caption] Anna Rivini attended the start of the Carnaval de Nice yesterday to get a first glimpse of the arrival of this year's king. Yesterday, despite the cold, there were a lot of people on Place Masséna for the arrival of the float of the King of the Planet Blue. This year’s Carnival takes a humorous and derisive view of ecology, which is represented in blue for the occasion. Hier, beaucoup de monde sur la place Masséna malgré le froid pour l'arrivée du char du "Roi de la Planète Bleue". Le thème du Carnaval cette année tourne avec humour et dérision autour de l'écologie présentée en bleue pour l'occasion.]]> 1460 2010-02-13 12:10:15 2010-02-13 12:10:15 open open the-king-arrives-in-nice publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last feb13bataillefleursfr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1461 Sun, 14 Feb 2010 14:53:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb13bataillefleursfr3.jpg 1461 2010-02-14 14:53:28 2010-02-14 14:53:28 open open feb13bataillefleursfr3 inherit 1467 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb13bataillefleursfr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata feb13bataillefleursfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1462 Sun, 14 Feb 2010 14:54:22 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb13bataillefleursfr2.jpg 1462 2010-02-14 14:54:22 2010-02-14 14:54:22 open open feb13bataillefleursfr2 inherit 1467 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb13bataillefleursfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata feb13bataillefleursfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1463 Sun, 14 Feb 2010 14:55:11 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb13bataillefleursfr1.jpg 1463 2010-02-14 14:55:11 2010-02-14 14:55:11 open open feb13bataillefleursfr1 inherit 1467 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb13bataillefleursfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata feb13bataillefleurfr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1464 Sun, 14 Feb 2010 14:56:12 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb13bataillefleurfr4.jpg 1464 2010-02-14 14:56:12 2010-02-14 14:56:12 open open feb13bataillefleurfr4 inherit 1467 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/feb13bataillefleurfr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Carnaval de Nice: 1st Battle of Flowers http://francerevisited.com/?p=1467 Sun, 14 Feb 2010 14:58:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=586 - Photos and text: Anna Rivini The first Battle of Flowers of 2010! An exciting tradition of Nice’s Carnival and an important part of the festivities. It is a tradition where beauty and the ephemeral go together. Large crowds and colorful characters fill the Promenade, dancing and having fun. Even when the weather is cold and cloudy, like yesterday, the show is magnificent, full of poetry and color. ]]> 1467 2010-02-14 14:58:30 2010-02-14 14:58:30 open open carnaval-de-nice-1st-battle-of-flowers publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1468 Mon, 15 Feb 2010 22:29:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr1.jpg 1468 2010-02-15 22:29:40 2010-02-15 22:29:40 open open fr1 inherit 1474 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata fr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1469 Mon, 15 Feb 2010 22:30:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr2.jpg 1469 2010-02-15 22:30:37 2010-02-15 22:30:37 open open fr2 inherit 1474 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata fr3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1470 Mon, 15 Feb 2010 22:31:57 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr3.jpg 1470 2010-02-15 22:31:57 2010-02-15 22:31:57 open open fr3 inherit 1474 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata fr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=598 Mon, 15 Feb 2010 22:32:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr4.jpg 598 2010-02-15 22:32:26 2010-02-15 22:32:26 open open fr4 inherit 1474 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata fr5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=599 Mon, 15 Feb 2010 22:32:52 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr5.jpg 599 2010-02-15 22:32:52 2010-02-15 22:32:52 open open fr5 inherit 1474 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata fr6 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1471 Mon, 15 Feb 2010 22:33:19 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr6.jpg 1471 2010-02-15 22:33:19 2010-02-15 22:33:19 open open fr6 inherit 1474 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fr6.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Carnival in Nice: Corso of the Planet Blue http://francerevisited.com/?p=1474 Mon, 15 Feb 2010 22:36:22 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=594 C'était super beau, she said of the Sunday afternoon Corso on Place Masséna. Here are some pictures she took there. Remember, this year's theme is the Blue Planet. You'll see below, that some group thinks that President Obama might come to the rescue. Others are simply hoping for the best. And others, apparently, aren't so sure. ]]> 1474 2010-02-15 22:36:22 2010-02-15 22:36:22 open open carnival-in-nice-corso-of-the-planet-blue publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last Teach a man to order a brownie and he'll save you two steps? http://francerevisited.com/?p=781 Thu, 25 Feb 2010 11:13:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=781 As a follow-up to my last post about how the person behind the counter in Paris is quickly disturbed by a client who fails to follow his or her script or rules, here’s another recent experience. On Sunday I walked into a bakery with a friend visiting from Denmark. Everything looked delicious to him, and to me, so we were slow to choose and let several people go ahead of us. Finally the friend told me what he wanted and I ordered for the two of us since I was treating and I spoke French. I told the seller that we wanted a pistachio crumble (in the case to the left, and so the seller immediately went left) and a brownie (in the case to the right, and so the seller went right). When I ordered the first pastry the seller was already standing behind the case with the brownies, so ordering it the way I did made him go one way then return the other. In the scheme of things that mattered little since cash register was in the middle. Still the seller remarked, “Next time order the brownie first. It’ll be more efficient that way because I was standing right there.” Perhaps he was trying to be funny, but if so he could have been a lot funnier. No, I think he was actually telling me that I should follow his script for seller-customer “correctness.” I was in fact being admonished for ordering in a way that he saw as inefficient. I responded, “Sorry, but I thought it more polite to order my guest’s pastry before mine.” In other words, I have my own script for “correctness” that had nothing to do with the seller. For me, the customer, my guest trumped his efficiency. The seller looked at me with a smile and with a slight nod and said, “C’est tout à votre honneur, Monsieur” (“That’s very honorable of you, Sir” or “It does you credit”). He may have still thought that I'd wrong him with an inefficient order, but it was nonetheless a gracious response.]]> 781 2010-02-25 11:13:44 2010-02-25 11:13:44 open open teach-a-man-to-order-a-pastry-and-hell-save-you-two-steps publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock 60 karinlynn68@yahoo.com http://analienparisienne.wordpress.com/ 82.226.120.56 2010-02-25 16:07:26 2010-02-25 16:07:26 1 0 0 61 parisrevisited@aol.com http://www.francerevisited.com 93.16.93.23 2010-02-25 16:45:28 2010-02-25 16:45:28 1 0 0 62 kathie_deloria@hotmail.com http://kathieandjacksonsbigadventure-maisoui.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2009-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-08%3A00&updated-max=2010-01-01T00%3A00%3A00-08%3A00&max-results=1 74.110.91.79 2010-02-28 18:58:01 2010-02-28 18:58:01 1 0 0 63 parisrevisited@aol.com http://www.francerevisited.com 93.16.93.23 2010-02-28 22:37:21 2010-02-28 22:37:21 1 0 0 64 karinlynn68@yahoo.com http://analienparisienne.wordpress.com/ 82.226.120.56 2010-03-05 11:46:17 2010-03-05 11:46:17 "both gracious and condescending" I think the French have this mastered. LOL. "The Court of Louis XIV used it a lot at Versailles, and here it’s trickled down to a bakery." Huh! Wow. You learn something new every day!]]> 1 0 0 The Weatherman, a poem http://francerevisited.com/?p=792 Wed, 03 Mar 2010 23:59:42 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=792 The Weatherman, March 3 I rarely go out for lunch in winter, but today I joined a television weatherman at a neighborhood restaurant that prides itself in serving only the freshest of fresh food, though it seemed a stretch for the waiter to call the scorpion fish fruity. He recognized him, and I think the women at the next table did, too. And afterwards someone stopped to say hello as we crossed the bridge. What a beautiful day to be walking by the canal, she said. It’s going to get cold again, he warned, maybe even snow next week. I don’t have a TV to see him wave his hands before the map of France. But I saw buds on the bush on my balcony today, and the cat, too, noticed the morning sun on the kitchen table finally reaching over the grey mansard across the street, where the neighbors close their curtains a little later every day.]]> 792 2010-03-03 23:59:42 2010-03-03 23:59:42 open open the-weatherman-march-3-a-poem publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 65 karinlynn68@yahoo.com http://analienparisienne.wordpress.com/ 82.226.120.56 2010-03-05 11:49:23 2010-03-05 11:49:23 "But I saw buds on the bush on my balcony today, and the cat, too, noticed the morning sun on the kitchen table..." Lovely. I am so anticipatory of springtime and this poem captures that anticipation! I almost ache with readiness for spring and some color in Paris yet again. I hope the weatherman is wrong about the cold and snow. Ugh. *sigh*]]> 1 0 0 buds-earlymarchfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=794 Fri, 05 Mar 2010 00:15:43 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/buds-earlymarchfr.jpg 794 2010-03-05 00:15:43 2010-03-05 00:15:43 open open buds-earlymarchfr inherit 792 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/buds-earlymarchfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata buds-earlymarchfr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=795 Fri, 05 Mar 2010 00:18:27 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/buds-earlymarchfr1.jpg 795 2010-03-05 00:18:27 2010-03-05 00:18:27 open open buds-earlymarchfr1 inherit 792 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/buds-earlymarchfr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata buds-earlymarchfr2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=796 Fri, 05 Mar 2010 00:22:25 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/buds-earlymarchfr2.jpg 796 2010-03-05 00:22:25 2010-03-05 00:22:25 open open buds-earlymarchfr2 inherit 792 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/buds-earlymarchfr2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 1adetails http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=806 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:29:18 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/1adetails.jpg 806 2010-03-15 22:29:18 2010-03-15 22:29:18 open open 1adetails inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/1adetails.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 1bdetails http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=807 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:29:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/1bdetails.jpg 807 2010-03-15 22:29:53 2010-03-15 22:29:53 open open 1bdetails inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/1bdetails.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 2ashops http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=808 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:30:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2ashops.jpg 808 2010-03-15 22:30:28 2010-03-15 22:30:28 open open 2ashops inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2ashops.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 2bshops http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=809 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:30:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2bshops.jpg 809 2010-03-15 22:30:53 2010-03-15 22:30:53 open open 2bshops inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2bshops.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 1adetails1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=810 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:34:08 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/1adetails1.jpg 810 2010-03-15 22:34:08 2010-03-15 22:34:08 open open 1adetails1 inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/1adetails1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 1bdetails1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=811 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:34:58 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/1bdetails1.jpg 811 2010-03-15 22:34:58 2010-03-15 22:34:58 open open 1bdetails1 inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/1bdetails1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 2ashops1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=813 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:35:46 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2ashops1.jpg 813 2010-03-15 22:35:46 2010-03-15 22:35:46 open open 2ashops1 inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2ashops1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 2bshops1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=814 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:39:46 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2bshops1.jpg 814 2010-03-15 22:39:46 2010-03-15 22:39:46 open open 2bshops1 inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2bshops1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 2cshops http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=815 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:40:52 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2cshops.jpg 815 2010-03-15 22:40:52 2010-03-15 22:40:52 open open 2cshops inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2cshops.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 3restos http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=816 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:41:27 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/3restos.jpg 816 2010-03-15 22:41:27 2010-03-15 22:41:27 open open 3restos inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/3restos.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 4foodshop http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=818 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:43:03 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/4foodshop.jpg 818 2010-03-15 22:43:03 2010-03-15 22:43:03 open open 4foodshop inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/4foodshop.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 5church http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=819 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:43:29 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/5church.jpg 819 2010-03-15 22:43:29 2010-03-15 22:43:29 open open 5church inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/5church.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 6park http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=821 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:44:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/6park.jpg 821 2010-03-15 22:44:13 2010-03-15 22:44:13 open open 6park inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/6park.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 7birds http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=822 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:45:11 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/7birds.jpg 822 2010-03-15 22:45:11 2010-03-15 22:45:11 open open 7birds inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/7birds.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 8cafe http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=823 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:45:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/8cafe.jpg 823 2010-03-15 22:45:40 2010-03-15 22:45:40 open open 8cafe inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/8cafe.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata 9rome http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=824 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:46:06 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/9rome.jpg 824 2010-03-15 22:46:06 2010-03-15 22:46:06 open open 9rome inherit 805 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/9rome.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata If I were a traveler... http://francerevisited.com/?p=805 Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:55:42 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=805 and allowing myself to be surprised by details without feeling that I had to learn or appreciate or buy anything in particular,… a real neighborhood, with a locksmith-shoemaker… and a restorer of old plumbing… and shops that don’t scream “deposit your tourist money here!,”… the kind of neighborhood where I’d go without lunch plans and instead check menus and decor as I walked around before settling on, say, a good Indian restaurant (Maharaja), or a bistro/wine bar (Oh Bigre), or something contemporary (La Family),… or perhaps be tempted by the food shops to create a picnic… and head past the little church (Sainte Marie des Batignolles) that I’d feel no tourist obligation to visit… to the neighborhood park, where I might stroll the paths of the city’s most charming English-style garden… then sit on a bench enjoying my picnic while observing various species of ducks and geese at play or at sleep and contemplating an ominous, pigeon-dropped statue of turkey vultures (or eagles?)… before leaving the park to sit in a café, where I’d think, “Now this looks like a nice quarter to live in, how come I’ve never read about it?,”… then I’d probably take the metro to Rome or Place de Clichy… and visit the Batignolles quarter in the 17th arrondissement.]]> 805 2010-03-15 22:55:42 2010-03-15 22:55:42 open open if-i-were-a-traveler%e2%80%a6-a-photo-reportage-of-the-batignolles-quarter publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 66 grace.teshima@gmail.com 81.65.28.104 2010-04-04 07:44:00 2010-04-04 07:44:00 1 0 0 67 francerevisited@aol.com http://www.francerevisited.com 93.16.93.23 2010-04-04 10:34:14 2010-04-04 10:34:14 1 0 0 equinoxsulpice1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=834 Sun, 21 Mar 2010 00:07:19 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/equinoxsulpice1.jpg 834 2010-03-21 00:07:19 2010-03-21 00:07:19 open open equinoxsulpice1 inherit 833 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/equinoxsulpice1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata equinoxsulpice2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=835 Sun, 21 Mar 2010 00:07:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/equinoxsulpice2.jpg 835 2010-03-21 00:07:47 2010-03-21 00:07:47 open open equinoxsulpice2 inherit 833 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/equinoxsulpice2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata equinoxsulpice3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=836 Sun, 21 Mar 2010 00:08:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/equinoxsulpice3.jpg 836 2010-03-21 00:08:40 2010-03-21 00:08:40 open open equinoxsulpice3 inherit 833 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/equinoxsulpice3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata equinoxsulpice4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=837 Sun, 21 Mar 2010 00:09:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/equinoxsulpice4.jpg 837 2010-03-21 00:09:47 2010-03-21 00:09:47 open open equinoxsulpice4 inherit 833 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/equinoxsulpice4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Let sleeping blogs lie http://francerevisited.com/?p=1476 Thu, 01 Apr 2010 22:45:20 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=603 A message from the editor: France Revisited was launched in January 2009 on the premise that the best travel writing offers a combination of information, insights, and experience that melds together in an compelling whole. A variety of remarkable writers and photographers to contribute to various sections of the magazine. We select them, or they select us, because of their passion for writing about or photographing some aspect of travel or France or Europe. Early on we created a Guest Blog to give those with less no writing or journalism experience an opportunity to present their experiences, observations, photos or videos. Once that blog was underway, we spun off a second guest blog for contributors on junior year abroad and called it Extracurricular Blogtivity. The Guest Blog and Extracurricular Blogtivity have been well received by readers, with each receiving thousands of visit. Unfortunately, the need to constantly renew the stable of contributors to those sections has proven too time-consuming while also leaving occasional gaps of several weeks in the frequency of posts, something we would rather avoid on France Revisited. Since both blogs have been quiet for several weeks now, we have decided to let sleeping blogs lie. We will therefore be taking a break on the Guest Blog and Extracurricular Blogtivity as of this post. The Guest Blog will be reactivated periodically as material allows. We will therefore continue to occasionally accept trip reports and other guest material for this blog and continue to welcome your queries and articles (and photos and videos) for this and other sections. Gary Lee Kraut, editor]]> 1476 2010-04-01 22:45:20 2010-04-01 22:45:20 open open let-sleeping-blogs-lie publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last chezomar1fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=843 Fri, 02 Apr 2010 22:18:26 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/chezomar1fr.jpg 843 2010-04-02 22:18:26 2010-04-02 22:18:26 open open chezomar1fr inherit 841 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/chezomar1fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata chezomar2fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=844 Fri, 02 Apr 2010 22:19:51 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/chezomar2fr.jpg 844 2010-04-02 22:19:51 2010-04-02 22:19:51 open open chezomar2fr inherit 841 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/chezomar2fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata royalheritage1fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=846 Fri, 02 Apr 2010 22:22:51 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/royalheritage1fr.jpg 846 2010-04-02 22:22:51 2010-04-02 22:22:51 open open royalheritage1fr inherit 841 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/royalheritage1fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata royalheritage2fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=847 Fri, 02 Apr 2010 22:23:56 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/royalheritage2fr.jpg 847 2010-04-02 22:23:56 2010-04-02 22:23:56 open open royalheritage2fr inherit 841 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/royalheritage2fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata royalheritage2fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=848 Fri, 02 Apr 2010 22:28:31 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/royalheritage2fr1.jpg 848 2010-04-02 22:28:31 2010-04-02 22:28:31 open open royalheritage2fr1 inherit 841 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/royalheritage2fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata In appreciation of my Royal, North African, French Heritage http://francerevisited.com/?p=841 Sat, 03 Apr 2010 08:32:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=841 North African: Chez Omar is among the most well-known Moroccan restaurants in Paris. It’s only a 15-minute walk from my apartment but until yesterday I’d been there only once. For couscous I’ve preferred for the past ten years Dar Tunis, a Tunisian restaurant in my neighborhood where the couscous is made with love and where I’ve always been welcomed as though I’m member of the family. For years the owners thought I was Tunisian, and even when they finally understood that I wasn’t they assumed that I must have Tunisian ancestors, like most everyone else who frequented the restaurant. Unfortunately, that restaurant has been shuttered for the past few weeks with no indication as to whether permanently or for vacation. Yesterday, then, I went with three Brazilian friends to Omar’s. Chez Omar (address below) has plenty of choices on the menu but we didn’t even pretend to consider anything but the couscous and its vegetables and broth, accompanied by beef, lamb, chicken, sausage, or, in the case of the vegetarian in our group, nothing. Though there’s nothing extraordinary about the dishes or décor or service, Chez Omar is always crowded. It’s both a restaurant and a scene. Chez Omar is easy-going, relatively inexpensive (nevertheless overpriced), amiably orchestrated by Omar, and it/he occasionally hosts recognizable faces and often attracts people with clean shirt and nice shoes. None of the latter was at my table, especially after Ana’s high heel broke on the sidewalk and some sauce splashed onto Humberto’s shirt, and then some more. Erica simply looks like she should be famous. Perhaps that, along with good timing, was why, after a 10-minute wait, we had the luxury of a corner table where no one could overhear our accents except for the waiter and Omar when he came to say hello. Omar asked Erica, Ana, and Humberto, the three with black hair (actually any hair) at the table where they were from and, after they told him, he mentioned several famous Brazilians who had come to his restaurant. As a joke, he then also asked me where I was from. I say “as a joke” because to him it was obvious that I was either North African or some French-North African mix. Not from my accent, mind you, but because North Africans in Paris often initially see me as kin, as at my neighborhood Tunisian restaurant. (He may also have figured only some French and/or North African would accompany three Brazilians to his restaurant.) After so many years in France a vague aura of North Africania is actually now also a part of my personal heritage. French: Ana Jabur (in the middle in the photo above) is the chef at another well-known restaurant in eastern Paris, Hotel du Nord. Hotel du Nord is the former hotel by Canal Saint Martin that lent its name to the famous French film of the same name from 1938. It’s now a decent, classic yet mildly hip restaurant, café, and bar with an international clientele. There, Ana prepares classic, mildly hip French dishes. I’ll say no more about Ana’s talents there, however, because she’s leaving for the restaurant at the end of April to become chef of possibly hip and happening and currently hush-hush restaurant that will be opening in late May. More on that when it happens. Last Friday I had late lunch Humberto and Erica at Hotel du Nord (address below), then Ana joined us when she finished in the kitchen. I asked Ana if she had any suggestions for what I could make for a dinner party the following day. (They were all polite enough not to notice that none of them was on the guest list.) Ana had a question first: Do you know how to cook? My response: It depends what you mean by cook. Her comment: I’ll keep it simple then. This image above is of the recipes she dictated and explained to me on the paper table cover at the Hotel du Nord, spread on the traditional French tablecloth in my kitchen. I would make a velouté (a thick creamy vegetable soup), a leg of lamb and potato something-or-other, and sauce for the lamb. Together we decided that the best recipe for dessert was a bakery nearby. I got the tail end of the sauce wrong, which happens to be the most part of the important sauce, but served it nonetheless—at the very least it expressed leeks, onions, wine, and effort. Royal: There were four of us, three French friends with clean shirts and nice shoes and me, with an Iron Chef apron that someone once gave me. I served a bottle of Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut 1999 Champagne with the hors d’oeuvres. Since one guest was reliably late and another reliably brought Champagne, when the former arrived I also opened the latter’s bottle, which we finished with the velouté. With the lamb (or on the lamb, as the French would say) I served a confidential red wine called Royal Heritage. Royal Heritage is made by two sisters, Isabelle and Catherine Orliac, who are heirs to a vineyard in southwest France that once provided wine to the Court of Louis XVI. Their ancestor Jean Orliac received permission from the king to supply the Court with his wine in 1780, thus the date on the bottle. The contents were from the harvest of 2005. The wine comes from the little-known Côtes du Brulhois, 100 miles southeast of Bordeaux, 60 miles northwest of Toulouse. The wine is available in only a handful of restaurants (see Orliac website below) and is otherwise obtained by “sponsoring” a vine. For 140 euros (currently $190) one “sponsors” the vine and, 18 months later, a bottle of its fermented fruit awaits you at the Orliac family’s Chateau la Bastide. You can then drive over to pick up your bottle with its wax-sealed cork and its handsome black box, or, more likely, have sent to you at additional cost. Your bottle will actually have the fruit of more than just your vine alone since the wine is a mix of four grapes: tannat, cabernet franc, merlot, and abouriou. The result is an excellent, hefty, full-bodied, dark fruity, mildly spicy wine that, as Isabelle Orliac had told me, goes well on lamb. One hundred forty euros plus postage is quite pricey for a Côtes du Brulhois, albeit a big Côtes du Brulhois. Sponsors are in part paying for a piece of history, for the sense of exclusiveness (there are only 10 hectares / 25 acres of vines), and for the possibility to one day visit their vine. Sponsor six and you’re invited for lunch. I’m looking forward to one day visiting my own vine. I must note, however, that am not an actual sponsor but rather a journalist who broke out a free bottle to impress his friends with his generosity. My friends in turn impressed me with their own generosity by telling me how accomplished I’ve become with French cuisine, without once mentioning the sauce. They also complimented me on my choice of Champagne, cheese, and dessert. It was indeed a rather good meal. Nevertheless I’m aware that the French like to compliment a foreigner’s appreciation of things French as a way of complimenting themselves and their own heritage, now partly mine. Royal Heritage produced by 2 Soeurs en Aquitaine at Chateau la Bastide, 47270 Clermont Soubiran. Tel. 05 53 87 41 02. www.royal-heritage.eu. I’ll be revisiting my encounters with Isabelle Orliac on France Revisited in the coming month. Hôtel du Nord. 102 quai de Jemmapes, 10th arrondissement. Tel. 01 40 40 78 78. www.hoteldunord.org. Metro Jacques Bonsergent. Chez Omar. 47 rue de Bretagne, 3rd arrondissement. Tel. 01 42 72 36 26. Metro Temple, Arts-et-Métiers, or Filles du Calvaire. Credit cards not accepted.]]> 841 2010-04-03 08:32:16 2010-04-03 08:32:16 open open in-appreciation-of-my-royal-north-african-french-heritage publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock 70 rodjns@gmail.com http://www.slpoa.com 86.70.175.15 2010-04-04 20:47:58 2010-04-04 20:47:58 1 0 0 71 garpar10@aol.com 93.16.93.23 2010-04-06 09:49:42 2010-04-06 09:49:42 1 0 0 72 wordstravel@aol.com 76.99.226.150 2010-04-09 00:44:59 2010-04-09 00:44:59 1 0 0 royalheritage1fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=858 Sat, 03 Apr 2010 10:40:25 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/royalheritage1fr1.jpg 858 2010-04-03 10:40:25 2010-04-03 10:40:25 open open royalheritage1fr1 inherit 841 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/royalheritage1fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Arbor Day and the award-winning travel writer http://francerevisited.com/?p=865 Sat, 01 May 2010 23:19:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=865 My first award referred to my work as “informative and entertaining,” which may seem to have more gravity than the “charming and delightful” of this second award. Nevertheless these new adjectives are a welcome addition to my resume. This latest award refers to the Arbor Day piece that I posted on this page one year ago. You can read it by clicking here. In reading it you will discover all the hope and pleasure that went into my planting a sprig of silky dogwood last April. The certificate announcing the award was accompanied by a letter from Ginger Young, president of the West Trenton Garden Club, in which she wrote, “I hope the Silky Dogwood is doing well… Mine is about 4’ high now.” Well, it turns out my sprig was gone before the award arrived. I’m pretty sure the guy on the lawnmower seen over my shoulder in the photo below was to blame. He claimed he never saw it, which sounds like evidence to me. That picture was taken yesterday, Arbor Day 2010. Like last year at this time I was in West Trenton, New Jersey visiting family and it was a beautiful spring day. This year I wanted to honor the day while also doing something to halt erosion of the lake on my brother’s property. So, having planted 10 junipers along water’s edge earlier in the week, I planted 10 more yesterday. While shoveling holes I may or may not have cut the wire to that lamp post beside me in the picture. I can’t tell because no one seems to know where the switch is anymore. I don’t expect to receive an award for this year’s Arbor Day piece, however I do expect the junipers, at least some of them, to last longer than the silky dogwood. And what does a juniper need with recognition as long as it has a place to grow. Links: Arbor Day West Trenton Garden Club The Garden Club of New Jersey The National Garden Clubs, Inc. Nuture the Earth, Plant Natives, Plant Organically Project]]> 865 2010-05-01 23:19:49 2010-05-01 23:19:49 open open arbor-day-and-the-award-winning-travel-writer publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last arborday2009-award http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=866 Wed, 05 May 2010 23:07:31 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/arborday2009-award.jpg 866 2010-05-05 23:07:31 2010-05-05 23:07:31 open open arborday2009-award inherit 865 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/arborday2009-award.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata arborday2010 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=867 Wed, 05 May 2010 23:09:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/arborday2010.jpg 867 2010-05-05 23:09:16 2010-05-05 23:09:16 open open arborday2010 inherit 865 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/arborday2010.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata When's the best time... http://francerevisited.com/?p=878 Tue, 01 Jun 2010 00:29:54 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=878 878 2010-06-01 00:29:54 2010-06-01 00:29:54 open open whens-the-best-time publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last massaimara1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=882 Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:39:46 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimara1.jpg 882 2010-06-14 21:39:46 2010-06-14 21:39:46 open open massaimara1 inherit 881 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimara1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata massaimara2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=883 Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:40:40 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimara2.jpg 883 2010-06-14 21:40:40 2010-06-14 21:40:40 open open massaimara2 inherit 881 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimara2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata massaimara3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=884 Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:41:32 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimara3.jpg 884 2010-06-14 21:41:32 2010-06-14 21:41:32 open open massaimara3 inherit 881 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimara3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata massaimarafr4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=885 Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:43:56 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimarafr4.jpg 885 2010-06-14 21:43:56 2010-06-14 21:43:56 open open massaimarafr4 inherit 881 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimarafr4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata massaimarafr41 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=887 Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:45:20 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimarafr41.jpg 887 2010-06-14 21:45:20 2010-06-14 21:45:20 open open massaimarafr41 inherit 881 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimarafr41.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata massaimarafr42 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=888 Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:45:50 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimarafr42.jpg 888 2010-06-14 21:45:50 2010-06-14 21:45:50 open open massaimarafr42 inherit 881 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/massaimarafr42.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata My World Cup runneth over http://francerevisited.com/?p=881 Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:58:36 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=881 With the western central African nation of Cameroon playing their opening match at the World Cup in South Africa today (they lost 1-0 to Japan), this is as good of a time as any to mention Massaï Mara, a worthy Cameroonian restaurant in Paris’s 19th arrondissement. [caption id="attachment_882" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Massai Mara, 19th arrondissement, Paris"]Massai Mara, 19th arrondissement, Paris[/caption] Cameroonian cuisine is inspired by both the sea and the land, and Massaï Mara widens the palate to the cuisines of African neighbors, some of which will be familiar to those who know Creole cooking. Not knowing where to start I was happy to try the chef’s assortment as an appetizer: beef samosa, crayfish and banana beignets, shrimp acras (fritters), plantain bananas. Plaintains, firmer and more starch-like than the fruity bananas we mostly consume, often accompanies dishes in central Africa, as well as in South America and the West Indies. As main course there are brochettes (beef or prawns) and fish (e.g. tilapia), but I went for unfamiliar Cameroonian territory with beef ndolé. Ndolé is a long-simmered dish with a spinach-like leaf and a peanut-based sauce. It's served here with golden-brown plaintains and rice. Shrip ndolé or beef and shrimp ndolé are also available. The food was pleasant, I especially enjoyed the variety of appetizers, but what would lead me to return is the warm atmosphere of Massaï Mara, a gathering place for the Cameroonian (and wider central African) community in Paris, led by the bright and joyful smile of owner Alice Abeng. [caption id="attachment_888" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Alice Abeng, owner of Massai Mara, and Victor Sosso, chef. Photo GLK"]Alice Abeng, owner of Massai Mara, and Victor Sosso, chef. Photo GLK[/caption] Cameroon was a German colony from 1884 to 1919 and a mostly French (partly British) territory after WWI, French Cameroun (with a u) became independent in 1960, and British Cameroon in 1961, leading to the birth of the Republic of Cameroon, now with a population of about 20 million. Its 20th-century ties with France mean that the Cameroon community in Paris well established. Encounter the community and the cuisine at Massaï Mara. Massaï Mara, 66 rue Armand Carrel, 19th arrondissement, Paris. Tel. 01 42 08 00 65. Metro Jaurès. www.massaimara.fr. Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. Open late. Massaï Mara often has live African music on Thursday, when there’s an all-you-can-eat buffet. See where Massaï Mara is in Paris by clicking here. See where the Republic of Cameroon is in Africa by clicking here.]]> 881 2010-06-14 21:58:36 2010-06-14 21:58:36 open open my-world-cup-runneth-over publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 73 karinlynn68@yahoo.com http://analienparisienne.wordpress.com/ 82.226.120.56 2010-06-25 11:17:36 2010-06-25 11:17:36 1 0 0 74 francerevisited@aol.com http://www.francerevisited.com 80.14.247.231 2010-06-26 17:31:11 2010-06-26 17:31:11 1 0 0 laura-chris1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1478 Thu, 01 Jul 2010 22:28:09 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris1.jpg 1478 2010-07-01 22:28:09 2010-07-01 22:28:09 open open laura-chris1 inherit 1486 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata laura-chris2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1479 Thu, 01 Jul 2010 22:28:42 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris2.jpg 1479 2010-07-01 22:28:42 2010-07-01 22:28:42 open open laura-chris2 inherit 1486 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata laura-chris3 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1480 Thu, 01 Jul 2010 22:29:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris3.jpg 1480 2010-07-01 22:29:13 2010-07-01 22:29:13 open open laura-chris3 inherit 1486 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris3.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata laura-chris4 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1481 Thu, 01 Jul 2010 22:30:18 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris4.jpg 1481 2010-07-01 22:30:18 2010-07-01 22:30:18 open open laura-chris4 inherit 1486 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris4.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata laura-chris5 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1482 Thu, 01 Jul 2010 22:30:55 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris5.jpg 1482 2010-07-01 22:30:55 2010-07-01 22:30:55 open open laura-chris5 inherit 1486 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris5.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata laura-chris6 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1483 Thu, 01 Jul 2010 22:31:29 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris6.jpg 1483 2010-07-01 22:31:29 2010-07-01 22:31:29 open open laura-chris6 inherit 1486 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/laura-chris6.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Paris trip report: Laura and Chris's week in June http://francerevisited.com/?p=1486 Thu, 01 Jul 2010 22:35:04 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=606 Editor’s note: While in Normandy last week I left my apartment in Paris to the artist Laura Barton and her husband Chris. On their return home to West Chester, Pennsylvania, Laura sent the following travel report, reproduced here with permission [with editor’s notes in brackets]. Bonsoir Gary, We are both delighted to hear your trip went well! We thought about you often and were sending you good vibes. Your apt was lovely and perfect. We are grateful that you let us use it! THANK YOU!!! Sorry about the laundry. I thought I'd be nice and do your towels and sheets. Oh well. Next time I'll get instructions! If I wrecked your sheets or your machine let me know and I'll take care of it. [Editor’s note: No harm done.] The food in the fridge should still be nice. I am still salivating over it and wishing I could get a nice charcuterie and fromage platter someplace in West Chester (though there are a couple Italian places that do their version of it). So I want to tell you what we did and how we felt about it. Maybe it'll help with recommendations in the future or maybe it'll just be interesting for you. We had a terrifically awesome time... There is NO place like Paris! Monday - Started with the Louvre. Then the Musée de L'Orangerie. LOVED IT! Met you for dinner at the pizza place. [Editor’s note: The night before I left for Normandy.] Good za. I noticed you ate it with a fork and knife but I just couldn't bring myself to do that... I'm old school American with my za. Tuesday - Visited the Musée d'Orsay. They are doing construction / repairs on the Impressionist floor but they've set up a temporary Impressionist/Post Impressionist area on the Main Floor. It's kind of nice because as you go in and out of the galleries you catch glimpses of the center where all the sculpture is. It is always easy for me to burn out on museums - odd. It just exhausts me; maybe it's sensory overload. We had a scrumptious baguette for lunch and then headed out to Versailles. Chris was - of course - wowed. So opulent and over the top! Took the tram to view the gardens because our feet were killing us. Had some wine at the Grand Canal and the whole experience was sublime. For dinner we were just too spent to go our so we ended up ordering from the take-out place just visible from your living room window. It was decent though I probably wouldn't do that again! [Editor’s note: Neither would I.] Wednesday - Went to the Catacombs first thing. Stood in line for the opening. Interesting, though creepy and cold. At one point I just looked straight ahead and walked quickly through. From there we went to the Pompidou. Again, interesting. The best thing I saw was the view from the top. Not that the art wasn't thought provoking, I just wasn't in the right frame of mind for it, I guess. For lunch we went to a crepe stand and got a jambon et fromage crepe and 2 Kronenbourgs [Editor’s note: A French beer, part of the Carlsberg group]. Ate at the reflecting pool... wonderful! Went "home" for a nap. Then took the metro to the Marché d'Aligre. Took a bit of walking around to find it, but worth it! Took our booty to Parc de Bercy for a feast and a game of scrabble. (Chris won) We headed home... He says it's good you aren't here or you'd think us lame for sitting on the couch reading at 9:45! [Editor’s note: That’s why I have a couch.] Thursday - Used the bikes from Hotel du Nord [Editor’s note: An actual hotel, not the Hotel du Nord that’s now a restaurant nearby. Laura and Chris stayed there for two nights before moving to my place, hence the hotel’s willingness to let them use the bikes again.] VERY NICE people. Rode up to Monmartre. Traipsed around there. Visited the Erotic Museum. Had crepes and a beer in the Montmartre Cemetery... you know, the one where they built the highway a foot above the tombs! We cycled to the beautiful Parc des Buttes Chaumont. We went for a run there so we'd feel better about having a huge dinner. We had the most wonderful gastronomic experience at La Robe et Le Palais! I started off by telling our waitress (who has to be up for the "Best Waitress in Paris" award) that our friend Gary Kraut is a travel writer and recommended this restaurant to us. Even though her English was perfect, I think she misunderstood as later on she said that I should write that Olivier [Schvirtz, the owner] had just opened a certain wonderful bottle of wine and that glasses we were about to drink were from it. By the way, it was an Ouvet from Provence – she said it was pricey but well worth having a glass. It was. We had a bottle of white Bordeaux – which was excellent! – called Chateau Couronneau 2009. Exceptional. The food was incredible too! Chris had the special (a rump steak) and I had the turbot. Delish. We had deserts: he a chocolate volcano desert and I a creamy custard with dried apricots. We adjourned to the outdoor patio and finished with a sparkling Cabernet. It was bubbly yet dry (and pink). VERY Tasty! This is my kind of restaurant: comfortable, unpretentious, great wine, scrumptious food and impeccable service. Friday - Needed to see more art! So we headed by Metro to the Musée Marmottan. WONDERFUL!!! Really great Monet show. [Editor’s note: Monet et l’Abstraction, until Sept. 26, 2010.] Then we WALKED to the Tour Eiffel. Saw it, got an ice cream to hold us off. Walked to the Arc de Triomphe. Our museum passes covered admittance so we walked to the top. Gotta tell you, it's NOT an easy climb. Circular steps to just about the top. Side note, the Museum Pass is definitely worth it. Not only does it pay for itself, you don't have to wait in the long lines!! How great is that? Spectacular views of Paris from the top. In my 4 previous visits to Paris I'd never been up the arch... Ended up walking to Franklin D. Roosevelt metro and taking the metro home. Stopped at the Franprix and got a cheap and yummy bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. Took a nap. Then headed out for the evening. Decided to go to Willi's Wine Bar [13 rue des Petits Champs, 1st]. Trendy, upscale, good vino. Nice bartender. The woman who was taking up 2 bar stools very clearly gave Chris a dirty "who the hell do YOU think you are?" look when he politely asked her if he could have the stool. Her escort knew she was a bitch and offered for them to move down so we could have 2 stools. It really was incredible... I'd NEVER seen someone so rude passively aggressively rude. Whew! Anyway, the wine and the bartender made up for her. We decided to dine next door at Aux Bon Crus [7 rue des Petits Champs, 1st]. Wonderful experience through and through. You're right - the complete opposite of WIlli's. Homey, fairly inexpensive, delicious and sweet people. Even the other patrons were friendly and talkative! We started with a Sauvignon Blanc to accompany his “Small Caesar” (which was HUGE - the waiter told us it was huge and meant as a meal, but he said he'd ask the chef to make is small... ha!) and I had a Crotton de Chevre. OH MY GOD!  A meal in and of itself! I actually didn't need dinner after that, but I'd already ordered so I might as well be a good girl and clean my plate (with help from my dining partner!) For the main course I had the pavé de saumon which was cooked to perfection and Chris had the onglet de veau which was the best thing he's ever eaten. Had a pichet of white wine with dinner. The food here was great, the wine here was good. We had an excellent experience! It was a full moon so we hoofed to the river via the Louvre. So very romantic. We then went back to La Robe et Le Palais! By now dinner was an hour + ago and we found room to split the chocolate volcano desert and a WHOLE BOTTLE of the sparkling cabernet. It's THAT good! (We each started out with a glass and it turned in a bottle). Took the metro back to République and took our time winding our way home to savor the last day in Paris. Had a really nice and friendly taxi driver to the airport. I think it cost 51 euros – not too bad since we didn’t have to schlep our heavy cases on the train. No need telling you about the airport experience or the flight home. Why end on a sour note?? We are missing Paris!!! We keep looking at each other and saying "again, why do we live here???" So thank you for lending us your apt. and for letting us pick your brain. I hope we didn't embarrass you!! xoxo Laura & Chris]]> 1486 2010-07-01 22:35:04 2010-07-01 22:35:04 open open paris-trip-report-laura-and-chriss-week-in-june publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 35 garpar10@aol.com 93.16.94.84 2010-07-07 23:14:30 2010-07-07 23:14:30 1 0 0 Americana in Paris: Cupcake Camp on the Fourth of July http://francerevisited.com/?p=895 Sun, 04 Jul 2010 23:50:37 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=895 “No, I’m American!” There were various other Fourth of July parties in Paris, of course, but I didn’t get invited to any of them either. I could have gone to the Franco-American Fourth of July ceremony at Lafayette’s tomb, but I’d been there last year (if you missed the article I wrote about that last year you can read it by clicking here or watch my audio slide-show of the event by clicking here.) Still, I was feeling a bit red-white-and-bluish (not to be confused with the colors of the French flag which is blue, white, and red) today, so I accepted an invitation to Cupcake Camp. Cupcake Camp was organized in Bistrot Vivienne, an otherwise pleasant bistro in the 2nd arrondissement that had been cleared of its pleasantness for the occasion, by Cat Beurnier, a cupcake baker who operates Sugar Daze, and Bryan Pirolli, a master’s student and part-time cook (photo left). I’d hoped to learn more about Cat and Bryan during Cupcake Camp but they were quite the busy camp leaders since the bistro was a-swarm with people trying to make the best out of the 10-euro entrance fee which allowed for all the cupcakes you can eat plus one drink. From the looks of things this afternoon it appears that if you give a couple hundred Americans (and assorted French friends) a choice of any beverage with their cupcake the majority will pick Diet Coke—or Coke Light as it’s called in France where no one will ever admit that she’s on a diet but where everyone wants to feel light. “Proceeds from the event,” to quote Cat and Bryan's press release, “will support a group spearheaded by friends of Cupcake Camp Paris, Rebuilding Haiti Now.” I’m not sure what the group actually does but I must say that only Americans are capable of using cupcakes to raise funds for earthquake victims, just one more thing we can be proud of. The press release also states that “Cupcake Camp is a tradition that hails from California, created by Ariel Waldman” and that “the cupcake can be considered the US’ defining culinary contribution to the world.” I know nothing about Ariel Waldman and won’t bother Googling the name because as far as I could tell Cupcake Camp Paris was simply an occasion to bake and eat cupcakes with proceeds going to charity. It didn’t feel like something that would “hail” from anywhere, let alone California, or need to be “created,” let alone by someone named Ariel Waldman! Nevertheless, today’s Cupcake Camp was a rousing success to judge by the donations/entrance fees, the crowds, the general good cheer, and the quantity of cupcakes and Coke Light consumed. Still, I’m a bit concerned about that “defining culinary contribution to the world” line. I only tried three cupcakes of the 30 or so varieties that I saw in the boxes, and there may have been many more that I didn’t see, so I can’t judge overall quality from my small sampling; I nevertheless came away with a vision of a dozen young women baking through the night while getting slaphappy on sugar and going heavy on the icing. Some things just weren't meant to define us abroad. Even as out-of-the-loop as I am regarding American baking trends, I have naturally been aware for a number of years now of the cupcake fad back home. When in the U.S. I can’t visit anyone with children under 25 without being offered a cupcake. At one party in New Jersey last year, ostensibly a Thanksgiving gathering, the oohs and ahs came not with the presentation of the turkey but with that of the cupcakes. A half-dozen tweens and teens stood around the dessert table waiting to see whose creations the guests would choose, each one smudging the icing of the competition so that hers would stand out as the prettiest. They were so disappointed when I didn’t pick one that I nearly felt unpatriotic for going for the pumpkin pie. Oddly enough, going to Cupcake Camp on the Fourth of July didn’t make me feel any more patriotic. In fact, I was surprised to see how little effort was made to make the connection between our “defining culinary contribution” and Independence Day. Entries to the “Most Patriotic Cupcake” competition (above) were so scant that I wondered if Cupcake Camp founder Ariel Waldman might have disallowed the combination of red, white, and blue icing in the camp rules. Either that or blue icing is hard to come by in Paris and no one realized that blueberry season has just begun. Anyway, as you can see from the photos above, the entries to the various competitions did look quite good, and I’m sure there were some true winners among them. The judges also looked quite good, as you can see below. On the right is travel writer Heather Stimmler-Hall. Click here to read an interview with her on France Revisited following the release of her book “Naughty Paris: A Ladies Guide to a Sexy City.” In the middle is Synie Georgulas, a professional baker, owner of the bakery-tea room Synie’s Cupcakes, whom I’ll be interviewing later this month in further explorations into cupcakes. On the left is Lindsey Tramuta, whose cupcake credentials include her musings on the blog Lost In Cheeseland. I should note that the photo above was taking prior to the start of their judging duties, which may explain why they look so happy to be there. Just kidding, Cat. It was a great event, just lacked a bit of Fourth of July spirit. Speaking of cats: the Fourth of July, also known as July 4, is also my cat’s birthday. He’s now 11. Happy birthday, Moumoon! ]]> 895 2010-07-04 23:50:37 2010-07-04 23:50:37 open open americana-in-paris-cupcake-camp-on-the-fourth-of-july publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 75 ariel@arielwaldman.com http://cupcakecamp.org 76.126.140.19 2010-07-05 22:54:05 2010-07-05 22:54:05 1 0 0 76 Kpetyt@parisianparty.com http://www.parisianevents.com/parisianparty 62.201.142.26 2010-07-06 07:10:41 2010-07-06 07:10:41 1 0 0 77 info@littlemisscupcake.fr http://www.littlemisscupcake.eu 89.224.222.208 2010-07-06 08:07:23 2010-07-06 08:07:23 1 0 0 78 francerevisited@aol.com http://www.francerevisited.com 93.16.93.115 2010-07-06 09:16:33 2010-07-06 09:16:33 1 0 0 79 lgirasol@earthlink.net http://islandgirl4ever2.blogspot.com 81.57.142.119 2010-07-07 22:51:29 2010-07-07 22:51:29 1 0 0 80 Ballantine@yahoo.com http://www.howtosellyourhomeforsalebyowner.com/marylandflatfeemls.htm 173.246.32.78 2010-10-01 14:49:58 2010-10-01 14:49:58 spam 0 0 81 Orehek@yahoo.com http://spaceheaterbuy.com 184.82.200.216 2010-10-02 17:37:58 2010-10-02 17:37:58 garnier nutrisse, RjGDPMUwGFajWhGaiEjZ.]]> spam 0 0 82 217Wiersteiner@mails.us http://structuredsettlementfaq.com/do-structured-settlements-really-help-physically-challenged-persons 187.16.249.131 2010-10-03 01:40:21 2010-10-03 01:40:21 spam 0 0 cupcakes1fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=896 Mon, 05 Jul 2010 00:02:35 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/cupcakes1fr.jpg 896 2010-07-05 00:02:35 2010-07-05 00:02:35 open open cupcakes1fr inherit 895 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/cupcakes1fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata cat-bryanfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=897 Mon, 05 Jul 2010 00:03:06 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/cat-bryanfr.jpg 897 2010-07-05 00:03:06 2010-07-05 00:03:06 open open cat-bryanfr inherit 895 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/cat-bryanfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata cupcakes2fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=898 Mon, 05 Jul 2010 00:03:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/cupcakes2fr.jpg 898 2010-07-05 00:03:47 2010-07-05 00:03:47 open open cupcakes2fr inherit 895 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/cupcakes2fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata judgesfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=899 Mon, 05 Jul 2010 00:04:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/judgesfr.jpg 899 2010-07-05 00:04:16 2010-07-05 00:04:16 open open judgesfr inherit 895 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/judgesfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata moumoonfr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=903 Mon, 05 Jul 2010 00:15:14 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/moumoonfr.jpg 903 2010-07-05 00:15:14 2010-07-05 00:15:14 open open moumoonfr inherit 895 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/moumoonfr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poemjuly-rodin http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1490 Thu, 22 Jul 2010 20:51:43 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/poemjuly-rodin.jpg 1490 2010-07-22 20:51:43 2010-07-22 20:51:43 open open poemjuly-rodin inherit 1497 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/poemjuly-rodin.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poemjuly-pigeon http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1491 Thu, 22 Jul 2010 20:53:08 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/poemjuly-pigeon.jpg 1491 2010-07-22 20:53:08 2010-07-22 20:53:08 open open poemjuly-pigeon inherit 1497 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/poemjuly-pigeon.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poemjuly-pigeon1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1492 Thu, 22 Jul 2010 20:55:44 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/poemjuly-pigeon1.jpg 1492 2010-07-22 20:55:44 2010-07-22 20:55:44 open open poemjuly-pigeon1 inherit 1497 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/poemjuly-pigeon1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poemjuly-rodin1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1493 Thu, 22 Jul 2010 20:57:28 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/poemjuly-rodin1.jpg 1493 2010-07-22 20:57:28 2010-07-22 20:57:28 open open poemjuly-rodin1 inherit 1497 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/poemjuly-rodin1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata poemjuly-pigeon2 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1495 Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:00:00 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/poemjuly-pigeon2.jpg 1495 2010-07-22 21:00:00 2010-07-22 21:00:00 open open poemjuly-pigeon2 inherit 1497 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/poemjuly-pigeon2.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Mid-Summer Poetry Issue: Page 1 http://francerevisited.com/?p=1497 Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:03:41 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=631 The Gates of Enfer By Andrea Bates  “The gates of enfer. That’s the gates of hell, right?” -overheard in the garden at the Rodin Museum, Paris They say it’s other people’s children,  not wanting what you’ve got, blood on a white shirt, lost chances you were too scared to take. And in France? those who do not speak the language languish for days in an enfer of their own making—tongue studded with syllables it cannot pronounce, chest heavy as Rodin’s gate, heaving in its attempt  to ask for a spoon to savor the sorbet sold at the garden’s stall. Yes, to try to curl the tongue around cuiller brings tourists to their knees, is to abandon all hope, ye who enter here, is to watch sorbet melt into a pool of sweet bitterness in its cup, is to leave it as an offering, what the dead can drink, thirst bronzed by the heat of Rodin’s ironworks, love’s unrequited vowels of ici, here, Paolo reaching for Francesca’s hand, only to grasp the parched air.   Roulé d'aubergine au chèvre By Andrea Bates Lettuce dine with fork and thyme, pears flambé on a plate appear to satisfy the palate, but only if we first salut the salad. When dining a la carte in Paris, the entrée is the appetizer, so the appetite should be as crisp as frisee that chevres the spine. Chaqun a son gout, a phrase planted on the purple- egged tongues of aubergines. On top, olive oil drizzled as gentle as pluie sweetening the cheeks on a stroll down the Champs-Elysees. A glass of merlot and voila— the miel is complete—like honey at the table, baked eggplant stuffed with warm, warm goat cheese on a bed of greens.   MADAME’S CAFÉ OF THE GOURMET HAND By Andrea Bates "All the pigeons of Paris are dead. Some have been eaten, which is natural,  but most of them have been condemned to death because they carry messages."  –Monday, Jan. 19, 1942, TIME magazine   She is old enough to remember the Occupation, backyard butchering of pigeon, twist of the neck, a stuffed pie to feed eight people, tablespoon of meat, dressing of parsley, and carrots smuggled in from the countryside. Her mother didn’t tell her it was pigeon--she would have cried and ruined the dinner, but decades after the war ended and her mother was dead, she discovered the recipe alive, written in her mother’s shaky hand, cached inside an envelope at the back of a kitchen drawer. A clipping also of Notre Dame, stained glass rosette removed, preserved in a secret cellar where prayer would protect from the MP40, submachine gun, trigger finger of the Nazis.   The bombs these days are laid by pigeons, eighty thousand strong, waggling throng of grey as if pieces of the Parisian sky have fallen. She greets them with a plastic bag of seed and crumbs she’s wiped from dinner tables and abraded from day old loaves, seasoned with dried parsley and thyme. Some believe there is no rhyme or reason to this mission, others do not forgive the blast and drop, residue of feather, purge of seed consumed. Every bird is a victory, every bird she tends is one less she must remember eating. Now, her outstretched palm beckons, Café of the Gourmet Hand feeding the flock near Notre Dame, each pigeon perched on the iron rail, awaiting its turn to receive what she cannot bear to throw away.   Andrea Bates’s first chapbook, Origami Heart, will be published in Toadlily Press’s 2010 volume Sightline in November.]]> 1497 2010-07-22 21:03:41 2010-07-22 21:03:41 open open the-france-revisited-mid-summer-poetry-issue-page-1 publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 36 laurentbar02@orange.fr 89.156.122.95 2010-08-08 17:22:51 2010-08-08 17:22:51 1 0 0 War Stories, Normandy http://francerevisited.com/?p=917 Thu, 29 Jul 2010 18:15:31 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=917 917 2010-07-29 18:15:31 2010-07-29 18:15:31 open open the-landing-zone-rain-in-normandy publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock 83 laurentbar02@orange.fr 89.156.122.95 2010-08-08 16:58:30 2010-08-08 16:58:30 1 0 0 Mid-Summer Poetry Issue: Page 3, If I could live here http://francerevisited.com/?p=1512 Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:37:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=651 If I could live here By H. T. Wald When will you come visit me in hills where Paleolithic hands painted where Cathars became Perfect where men still speak of the earth When will you come sip the wine feast together sit in the garden by the old stone wall remembering how you laughed so hard the chair broke and you said “If I could live here” When will you pack your bags lightly for your cousin to drive you to the airport for the plane to Paris or Toulouse or Bordeaux for a train to the station where I’ll pick you up just thirty minutes away When will you come to the hills Where you dreamt that you cloaked yourself in a landscape of fertile green and felt so secure and free at home “If I could live here” When will you come stay in the village rejoice in the seasons explore the known and unknown of ourselves each other and the world at this wooden table When will you come as you said you would come some day soon if you could live here © 2010 H. T. Wald is a writer and poet.]]> 1512 2010-07-30 15:37:33 2010-07-30 15:37:33 open open mid-summer-poetry-issue-page-3-if-i-could-live-here publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last Mid-Summer Poetry Issue: Page 4, Of love and the river http://francerevisited.com/?p=1518 Tue, 03 Aug 2010 14:52:23 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=661 here. For now we invite you to watch this France Revisited® audio slideshow to see images of the Pont Mirabeau and hear a reading of Apollinaire’s poem by Va-nu-pieds. This audio-slideshow and the accompanying article close our 2010 Mid-Summer Poetry Issue. ]]> 1518 2010-08-03 14:52:23 2010-08-03 14:52:23 open open mid-summer-poetry-issue-page-4-of-love-and-the-river publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_last _edit_lock 38 garpar10@aol.com 93.16.93.7 2010-08-09 00:21:01 2010-08-09 00:21:01 1 0 0 39 francerevisited@aol.com http://FranceRevisited.com 93.16.93.7 2010-08-09 00:28:15 2010-08-09 00:28:15 1 0 0 blogaug10-grandvefour-guymartinbymichellangot http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=925 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:41:47 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-grandvefour-guymartinbymichellangot.jpg 925 2010-08-08 22:41:47 2010-08-08 22:41:47 open open blogaug10-grandvefour-guymartinbymichellangot inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-grandvefour-guymartinbymichellangot.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-grandvefourdecor http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=926 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:43:24 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-grandvefourdecor.jpg 926 2010-08-08 22:43:24 2010-08-08 22:43:24 open open blogaug10-grandvefourdecor inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-grandvefourdecor.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-grandvefour-christiandavid-directeur http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=927 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:44:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-grandvefour-christiandavid-directeur.jpg 927 2010-08-08 22:44:30 2010-08-08 22:44:30 open open blogaug10-grandvefour-christiandavid-directeur inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-grandvefour-christiandavid-directeur.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-sensing-remivanpetighem http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=928 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:46:07 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-sensing-remivanpetighem.jpg 928 2010-08-08 22:46:07 2010-08-08 22:46:07 open open blogaug10-sensing-remivanpetighem inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-sensing-remivanpetighem.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-sensing-remivanpetighem1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=929 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:47:16 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-sensing-remivanpetighem1.jpg 929 2010-08-08 22:47:16 2010-08-08 22:47:16 open open blogaug10-sensing-remivanpetighem1 inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-sensing-remivanpetighem1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-sensing http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=930 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:48:30 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-sensing.jpg 930 2010-08-08 22:48:30 2010-08-08 22:48:30 open open blogaug10-sensing inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-sensing.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-davidangelot http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=931 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:52:12 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-davidangelot.jpg 931 2010-08-08 22:52:12 2010-08-08 22:52:12 open open blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-davidangelot inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-davidangelot.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-davidangelot1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=932 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:53:33 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-davidangelot1.jpg 932 2010-08-08 22:53:33 2010-08-08 22:53:33 open open blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-davidangelot1 inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-davidangelot1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-decor http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=933 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:54:35 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-decor.jpg 933 2010-08-08 22:54:35 2010-08-08 22:54:35 open open blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-decor inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-decor.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-decor1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=934 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:55:22 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-decor1.jpg 934 2010-08-08 22:55:22 2010-08-08 22:55:22 open open blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-decor1 inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-decor1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-appetizer http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=935 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:57:15 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-appetizer.jpg 935 2010-08-08 22:57:15 2010-08-08 22:57:15 open open blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-appetizer inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-appetizer.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-appetizer1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=936 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 22:59:03 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-appetizer1.jpg 936 2010-08-08 22:59:03 2010-08-08 22:59:03 open open blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-appetizer1 inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-cristalroombaccarat-appetizer1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-thierrymolinengo http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=937 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 23:00:35 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-thierrymolinengo.jpg 937 2010-08-08 23:00:35 2010-08-08 23:00:35 open open blogaug10-thierrymolinengo inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-thierrymolinengo.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-miyou http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=938 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 23:01:50 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-miyou.jpg 938 2010-08-08 23:01:50 2010-08-08 23:01:50 open open blogaug10-miyou inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-miyou.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata blogaug10-atelierguymartin-ltocheportlmosset-acourteille http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=939 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 23:04:21 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-atelierguymartin-ltocheportlmosset-acourteille.jpg 939 2010-08-08 23:04:21 2010-08-08 23:04:21 open open blogaug10-atelierguymartin-ltocheportlmosset-acourteille inherit 924 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/blogaug10-atelierguymartin-ltocheportlmosset-acourteille.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata A chef's world: exploring the universe of Guy Martin http://francerevisited.com/?p=924 Sun, 08 Aug 2010 23:09:15 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=924 Guy Martin at Grand Vefour. Photo Michel Langlot[/caption] Earlier this summer I investigated the culinary universe of Guy Martin, one of the most recognizable names of high gastronomy in Paris. Chef of the irrepressibly romantic and stellar Grand Véfour by the garden of Palais Royal, the Guy Martin signature also appears on a number of other culinary offerings in Paris: the polished Sensing, the evocative Cristal Room Bacarrat, the cooking workshop Atelier Guy Martin, and the self-service sandwichie Miyou. I lunched at all of these for the purposes of an article that will appear in France Revisited’s Food & Drink section in September. It isn’t that I’ve gone gaga over Guy—though I have indeed come to appreciate the smooth consistency of the man’s gastronomic reach—rather I wanted to examine his various signature offerings to see if I could find in this culinary branding some essential piece to the real Guy Martin. Guy Martin is one of a handful of name-brand chefs that I could have selected for such an investigation, so before working on the final article I want to explain here why I chose him and introduce readers to various chefs encountered along the way who work within his universe. [caption id="attachment_926" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Grand Vefour, interior"]Grand Vefour, interior[/caption] Selecting Guy Martin involved a combination of memory, editorial choice, and journalistic opportunism. Memory. I’d eaten at Grand Véfour twice before this year, once about 15 years ago and once about 10 years ago. (Guy Martin has ruled the ovens there since 1993.) The sense of elegance and romance of those meals have stayed with me even though my dinner companions have been forgotten, or at least their elegance and romance have. I don’t know why those two dining experiences have stayed with me in a way that other fine dining experiences have not. Perhaps it was simply the jewel-box setting of the late 18th-early 19th century—now timeless—restaurant that anchors the northern end of the garden of the Palais Royal. I can’t judge Le Grand Véfour critically now for what it was 10 years ago (it currently has 2 Michelin stars if that means anything to you), and 10 years ago I knew far less about gastronomy than I do now, so I’ll simply conclude that I remembered Le Grand Véfour because something about being there felt special. [caption id="attachment_927" align="alignleft" width="216" caption="Christian David, maitre d at Grand Vefour. Photo GLK"]Christian David, maitre d' at Grand Vefour. Photo GLK.[/caption] Editorial choice. Last year I contacted gastronomic portraitist Fabien Nègre about the possibility of my translating for readers of France Revisited one or more of his “Portaits de chef” appearing on the French site Restos.com. When he and Alain Newman, creator of Restos.com, agreed, I selected Guy Martin because of the vague memory of those long-ago meals. Fabien’s portrait, translated by me, can be read here. Journalistic opportunism. Months later the chef learned of the text on this site in English and, though his contact with Fabien, invited the two of us to lunch. (More on that lunch in the upcoming article.) With that meal under my belt, I set on a series of lunchtime investigations to get to know Guy Martin’s other culinary businesses in Paris. I ate at two of those—Sensing and Atelier Guy Martin—at a press lunch with a group of food bloggers. For the two others—Miyou and Cristal Room Baccarat—Fabien and I went on our own. I was invited to all of these by the establishments themselves. My intent in getting acquainted with these establishments was, as I’ve said, to gain a sense of the essential Guy Martin, not simply to take the critical snapshot for the purposes of a restaurant review. The chefs. Enough has and will be said on this site about Guy Martin himself. For now I’d like to introduce you to other chefs, working under the Guy Martin banner, whom I interviewed along the way. [caption id="attachment_929" align="alignright" width="271" caption="Remi Van Peteghem at Sensing. Photo GLK."]Remi Van Petighem at Sensing. Photo GLK.[/caption] Sensing: Rémi Van Peteghem Sensing is a peaceable and polished restaurant in the Montparnasse Quarter, it’s cuisine straightforward and refined. Since chefs tend to resemble their restaurants the way dogs resemble their owners, it was no surprise—nevertheless quite refreshing—to find that Rémi Van Peteghem, the 32-year-old chef of Sensing, came across as humble and gracious when he met with us after the meal. If the strength (some say limitation) of French cuisine is its use of fresh seasonal products that reveal a taste of their essence, as well as of the earth, the sun, and the sea from they come, and that polished French cuisine is the culinary equivalent of the French garden—the graceful and geometric taming of nature—then Mr. Van Petegham’s work is a brilliant exemple of what such cooking is all about. His verbal and culinary articulation of polished French cuisine is clear, coolly passionate, and sincere. It’s like a pastel drawing that’s warm and skilled yet unpretentious. The same can be said for Sensing’s décor which aims for comfort rather than thrill. The atmosphere is all yours to create with your tablemates. [caption id="attachment_930" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Decor and dish at Sensing. Photo GLK."]Decor and dish at Sensing. Photo GLK.[/caption] Sensing, 19 rue Bréa, 6th arrondissement. Metro Vavin or Notre-Dame-des-Champs. Tel. 01 43 27 08 80. Closed Sunday. Lunch menus: 2 courses, 25€, 3 courses 35€. The more expressive 55€ lunch menu and 75€ dinner menu includes drinks. Tasting menu of 95 euros (140 euros with wine pairing). Count 65-75€ à la carte + drinks. Cristal Room Baccarat: David Angelot [caption id="attachment_932" align="alignleft" width="288" caption="David Angelot at Cristal Room Baccarat. Photo GLK."]David Angelot at Cristal Room Baccarat. Photo GLK.[/caption] Housed in a late-19th-century mansion that is now headquarters of the crystal-maker Baccarat, Cristal Room hit the gastro-touristic news big time when it opened several years ago. As a showplace (the building also houses the Baccarat showroom and museum), the restaurant gained a reputation as being more remarkable for the value of its Philippe Stark décor than the value of its cuisine. Now a new chef has taken the reins beneath Guy Martin’s signature. In March 2010 Mr Martin, who “orchestrates” (Baccarat’s word) the kitchen here, appointed David Angelot as onsite, more or less independent chef. In a brief conversation after lunch, Mr. Angelot came across as ambitious and confident, a study contrasts with the first impression of modesty and serenity given by Mr. Van Peteghem at Sensing. It’s as though Guy Martin had meditated on the décor of each dining room then selected the personality that best corresponded to it, and the preparations followed in line with both the personality and the décor. [caption id="attachment_934" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Cristal Room Baccarat"]Cristal Room Baccarat[/caption] At the top of an eye-catching stairwell, Crital Room’s décor presents a unified mix of historical chic, designer kitsch, and Baccarat show-pieces: gilt-framed brick walls, noble portrait medallions, crystal chandeliers, pale pink couches, prominent stemware and candleholders. Echoing this from the kitchen, Mr. Angelot’s cuisine is handsome, showy, and frank. The culinary playing fields on which trendiness and gastronomy attempt to coexist are heavily mined, and service will inevitably suffer from lack of traction, but Mr. Angelot and the staff do a good job of trying to find the balance between the two. Case in point is the appetizer below which may look like some kind of sea creature but it was actually an entertaining appetizer that was a delight to dissect and eat. It’s called tranche d’aubergine snackée, (snacked slice of eggplant), in which the eggplant is a base for dried tomatoes, squid, tapenade, parmesan compote, tomato sorbet, and a bourage flower. It was wonderfully modern, tasty, and kitsch, like a fancy, edible hat, and while it isn’t the type of appetizer for which one earns stars, it was in deliciously in keeping with both the showiness of the dining room. If you allow yourself to get into the spirit of the place and don’t take it all too seriously, a meal here won’t be flawless but it will be part of a very romantic day, especially if you’re staying a fine hotel within walking distance. Cristal Room Baccarat, 11 place des Etats-Unis, 16th arrondissement. Metro Boissière or Iéna. Tel 01 40 22 11 10. Closed Sunday. Priced about the same as Sensing, slightly more à la carte. Miyou: Thierry Molinengo [caption id="attachment_937" align="alignright" width="266" caption="Thierry Molinengo"]Thierry Molinengo[/caption] Thierry Molinengo’s talents shouldn’t be reduced to those on display at Miyou, but that’s where I met him when I went for lunch at this sandwich shop/lunch/snack-room in the upscale Bon Marché department store. Mr. Molinengo was there that afternoon trying out various recipes for Miyou. He invited me to try an apricot dessert wrap that was in test phase—and for the sake of Miyou I gladly agreed that it was probably better with strawberries. He was also working on a salmon millefeuille whose colors, he said, he hadn’t yet gotten right. In any case, it was clear that Mr. Molinengo was not simply here to see that the smoked salmon was fresh. Mr. Moleningo appears to be a kind of roving right-hand man to Guy Martin. In addition to testing recipes and keeping an eye on Miyou, he can be found sous-cheffing at Grand Véfour or giving cooking classes to English-speaking groups at Atelier Guy Martin. It’s rather reassuring to know that someone of Mr. Molinegno’s stature spends time in the kitchen at Mr. Martin’s department store eatery. Calling itself a luxury sandwich shop, Miyou opened on the second floor of the main building of the Bon Marché department stores in March 2010. Miyou prides itself on offering great freshness and a mix of savors, whether in salads, soups, and sandwiches (baguettes, wraps, and clubs) pre-prepared throughout the day or in burgers and hot dishes made to order. [caption id="attachment_938" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Self-service sandwich-salad display and seating at Miyou."]Self-service sandwich-salad display and seating at Miyou.[/caption] There’s naturally much competition for lunchtime and snacktime attention in this area, notably from the luxury grocery store and purveyor of freshly prepared food at the Grand Epicerie, in the building next door, as well as in the cafés and bakeries in the area. So Miyou cannot stand out on the basis of sandwiches and luxury mineral water alone. Nevertheless, the freshness and lightness of the offerings, the airy setting, and the amiable presence of manager Antoun Khater ensures an easy-going lunch or mid-afternoon snack stop for those looking to rest their weary shopping feet. The more basic sandwiches here are priced only slightly higher than what one would find in a local bakery. When one adds a salad or dessert and something to drink the cost is in keeping with lunch at a local café, about 18€. Miyou, 3rd level of the Bon Marché department store, 24 rue de Sèvres, 7th arrondissement. Metro Sèvres Babylone. Open 11am-7pm. Closed Sun. Wifi connection. Atelier Guy Martin The photo below was taken on the day I joined a dozen food bloggers for a lunchtime cooking class at the cooking workshop Atelier Guy Martin. Since I was one of the chefs of the day (I cut an onion and a tomato, stirred a sauces, and filled a soufflé cup), I’m proud to stand alongside the real chefs of the Atelier, left to right, Louis Tocheport, head pastry chef; Laurent Mosset, sous-chef of the Atelier; Antony Courteille, executive chef of the Atelier. [caption id="attachment_939" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Chefs at Atelier Guy Martin. Photo T. Perois."]Chefs at Atelier Guy Martin. Photo T. Perois.[/caption] Atelier Guy Martin, 35 rue Miromesnil, 8th arrondissement. Metro Miromesnil. Tel. 01 42 66 33 33. So how do these five establishes—Grand Véfour, Sensing, Cristal Room Baccarat, Miyou, and Atelier Guy Martin—fit together? What’s their essence? Give me another month to digest these investigations and stay tuned for the full article in September. ]]> 924 2010-08-08 23:09:15 2010-08-08 23:09:15 open open a-chefs-world-exploring-the-universe-of-guy-martin publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 84 garpar10@aol.com 93.16.93.250 2010-09-03 11:48:22 2010-09-03 11:48:22 1 0 0 Gary goes to cooking school: a lunchtime class at Atelier Guy Martin http://francerevisited.com/?p=1537 Tue, 07 Sep 2010 13:36:09 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=947 Atelier Guy Martin. The video below shows various moments during that class under the instruction of the Atelier’s executive chef Antony Courteille and sous-chef Laurent Mosset. The sound is a bit muddled at times and the chefs may not be comprehensible to some viewers since the class was given in French, nevertheless the instruction was indeed clear and concise, and the 2 hours event (instruction + lunch) flowed smoothly and convivially from tomato to onion to sea bream to chocolate mousse to decorating the plate… and then from an aperitif to the enjoyment of our own cuisine. Taking part in the cooking class along with me and glimpsed in this video are Fabien Nègre of Paysages Culinaires, who organized of the event, and the following Paris-based food bloggers (names linked to their blogs or other web publications): Wai Ming Lung, Fabrice Ivara, Christophe Wakim, Vanessa Besnard, Salma Essafi, Barbra Austin, Géraldine Ranouil, Isabelle Chane Pane, and Phyllis Flick. The video was filmed and directed by Thibault Perois. In view of the limited cooking skill of some in the group, beginning with myself, the instruction of this specific lunchtime class was kept rather basic. Classes for more experienced or trained cooks as well as specially tailored classes are also possible, including in English. At the lunchtime cooking class and at a previous cocktail event I attended, I found the staff of the Atelier to be gracious, friendly, and highly knowledgeable and the atmosphere unpretentious and relaxed, leading me to believe that the Atelier is well worth considering for those looking for a cooking class in Paris at any level. Classes are reasonably priced at about 80 euros per two-hour course. There are shorter and longer courses as well, along with classes for children. Atelier Guy Martin, 35 rue Miromesnil, 8th arrondissement, Paris. Metro Miromesnil. Tel. 01 42 66 33 33. See the schedule of upcoming classes. Tailor-made classes and events are also possible. For more on my investigations into the culinary world of Guy Martin see here.]]> 1537 2010-09-07 13:36:09 2010-09-07 13:36:09 open open gary-goes-to-cooking-school-a-lunchtime-class-at-atelier-guy-martin publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 85 Carol@gmail.com http://www.onlinerepairmanuals.info 96.243.199.223 2010-10-02 14:19:47 2010-10-02 14:19:47 spam 0 0 86 Backers16714@aol.com http://countingcaloriestoloseweight.weightloss-consult.com 173.208.67.94 2010-10-02 16:51:28 2010-10-02 16:51:28 spam 0 0 87 Mckibben@money.com http://www.links2rss.com/feed/1244107138.xml 209.220.104.79 2010-10-03 22:23:41 2010-10-03 22:23:41 spam 0 0 88 Maderios@money.com http://www.imbrat.com/insiders-hq-review/insiders-hq-review-ran-aroussi-and-philip-mansour 209.220.104.79 2010-10-04 09:24:43 2010-10-04 09:24:43 spam 0 0 89 868Dosier@gmail.com http://www.pokerclubprivado.com 173.234.94.15 2010-10-04 15:02:10 2010-10-04 15:02:10 spam 0 0 90 Mainard@money.com http://www.enkord.com/forum/member.php?u=14611 173.246.36.211 2010-10-04 23:00:20 2010-10-04 23:00:20 spam 0 0 91 Vinion@smithgroupinternet.com http://dbrady480.typepad.com/blog 99.28.91.177 2010-10-05 00:39:42 2010-10-05 00:39:42 spam 0 0 92 Adkisson@money.com http://articlewriting34z.wordpress.com/feed/ 173.246.33.215 2010-10-05 21:47:26 2010-10-05 21:47:26 spam 0 0 93 Delosrios@money.com http://burningspearmusic.com/Forum/index.php?action=profile;u=64438 69.172.233.158 2010-10-06 16:33:31 2010-10-06 16:33:31 spam 0 0 94 Chandra.Degarmo33@gmail.com http://www.reprak.com 41.190.16.17 2010-10-08 19:34:40 2010-10-08 19:34:40 spam 0 0 95 Stoutenger@money.com http://ultimaterssjoiner.com/rss/3b3d8fcf7f5c90a74109f7b46128563f.xml 173.246.36.211 2010-10-09 20:13:15 2010-10-09 20:13:15 spam 0 0 96 Mathe@smithgroupinternet.com http://www.go4healthandfitness.com 99.28.91.177 2010-10-10 03:39:08 2010-10-10 03:39:08 spam 0 0 97 Mckibben@money.com http://bert6115bailey.livejournal.com/945.html 173.246.36.211 2010-10-10 07:31:10 2010-10-10 07:31:10 spam 0 0 European Heritage Days: “Paris Historique” decries destruction of historical buildings http://francerevisited.com/?p=1522 Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:49:14 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=666 The architectural heritage of France—local, regional, national, even European—is part of what makes this the world’s number one tourist destination and what makes Paris such as magnificent walking city, as readers of France Revisited well know. But should that architectural heritage be maintained at all cost? Does an insistence on maintaining and restoring old buildings risk stunting its growth and development? Or can an emphasis on maintaining that heritage coexist with the economic imperatives of the evolving city? This weekend, Sept. 18-19, France takes part in the 27th annual Europe Heritage Days, when historical buildings normally closed to the public are open and cultural assets are put on display. (Other countries may hold the event on other days.) On this occasion, France Revisited is posting here, with permission, one point of view on the subject. Below is an open letter by Pierre Housieaux, president of Paris Historique, an association devoted to the preservation, restoration, and promotion of heritage sites in Paris and beyond. The views put forth in this letter, translated here by GLK, do not represent those of France Revisited. We present them here to give readers a glimpse of one side of an ongoing argument in Paris and wherever there are calls for preservation. Other views are welcome. “Paris Historique” Rebels Against the Destruction of Certain Center Cities in Europe. Prague, Budapest, Bucarest and Paris Threatened. Paris Historique is delighted again this year by the great success that the 27th European Heritage Days will encounter in Ile-de-France [the Paris region] and Paris. As every year, millions of people who love and are passionate about history, architecture, and secular traditions will take to the paths of our cities, towns, and villages to admire sites and monuments that our associations have the task of preserving, restoring, or simply bringing to life in the taste and rhythm of our time. This doesn’t mean, however, that I am writing to cry victory or to say that we can be self-satisfied with the results obtained. In 2010, again and often, numerous public and private properties have decided on the destruction or “reconstruction” of numerous jewels that are also worthy of general recognition. In Paris, Prague, Budapest, Bucharest, and Stuttgart in particular, and throughout Europe in general, sites and entire sections of our cities are disappearing or will soon disappear in favor of irrelevant economic operations, even for petty personal interests. To cite but a few: - the Jewish quarter of Budapest, - entire blocks within historical sections in the heart of Prague, - the city of Bucarest, where there no longer apply any serious rules of urban planning, - the demolition of the Stuttgart train station, - and here in Paris the scandalous destruction of the block (workshops and ship testing tanks in particular) built by the Perret brothers on boulevard Victor [15th arrondissement], the uncertain future—despite reassuring pronouncements—of the Hôtel de la Marine, place de la Concorde, and all the abusive and tolerated renovations of noble mansions in the Marais and in the Faubourg Saint Germain, among others. We therefore take the opportunity of these days of celebration of our heritage to recall that the situation is degrading and that it is now truly urgent, as in the 1960s at the time of the creation of protected sectors in France, for European public opinion to react and voice its profound disagreement with the current policy or rather non-policy of preserving our memory. We ask that the European Parliament take up these important matters and vote an exemplary, supranational law taking into account the preservation and highlighting of heritage at a time when the situation, particularly economic, is especially difficult and when too many arguments “of necessity,” all too often random and illegitimate, tend to relegate the defense of national heritage to the background, and even to contest that defense. Information and an online petition are accessible on the site www.patrimoine-heritage.eu. We count on your support. Pierre Housieaux Président of Paris Historique Paris Historique, 44-46 rue François Miron, 4th arrondissement, Paris. Metro Saint Paul. Tel. 01 48 87 74 31. Original letter in French translated by Gary Lee Kraut for exclusive use on France Revisited®.]]> 1522 2010-09-13 10:49:14 2010-09-13 10:49:14 open open european-heritage-days-%e2%80%9cparis-historique%e2%80%9d-decries-destruction-of-historical-buildings publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 40 garpar10@aol.com 93.16.93.176 2010-09-14 09:38:14 2010-09-14 09:38:14 1 0 0 41 bas479elines00of@gmail.com http://www.baselinesoft.com/ 89.149.244.89 2010-09-28 23:15:15 2010-09-28 23:15:15 spam 0 0 henrisjubileefr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1540 Sat, 02 Oct 2010 16:35:56 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/henrisjubileefr.jpg 1540 2010-10-02 16:35:56 2010-10-02 16:35:56 open open henrisjubileefr inherit 1542 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/henrisjubileefr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Nuit Blanche, the golden jacket, and Henri’s jubiliee http://francerevisited.com/?p=1542 Sat, 02 Oct 2010 16:37:53 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=950 Nuit Blanche in Paris, an official all-nighter, when City Hall invites visitors and residents to stay up all night and take part in artsy, nightclubby sound and light shows throughout the city, both indoors and out. The success and failure of the night depends less on the quality of the installations than on the pleasantness of the weather. I’m writing this on a balmy 65-degrees afternoon, clouds but no rain in sight, so I imagine that success is on the night’s horizon. I often take a stroll with friends on the night of Nuit Blanche though I don’t actually have much affinity for the event. This may seem odd to those who know that I tend to be what one might call “a night person,” but that affinity is largely due to the fact that most others are asleep during that time. I find the night far less inspiring when everyone else is awake. Nevertheless, Nuit Blanche can provide some surprising and/or curious street entertainment on a dry and mild night. And, if you can hold off having dinner until after midnight, there’s a nice and brassy atmosphere in the bigger brasseries and late-night bistros. My recommendation: Onion soup at 3am in the Les Halles Quarter at La Poule au Pot. But I won’t be attending Nuit Blanche this year because I’ll be attending a birthday party. My friend Henri is celebrating his 50th tonight in a 17th-century pleasure palace near Versailles that he and two friends, also feting their jubilee, have rented for the occasion. Henri, whom regular readers of this blog have met here and here and here, has always dreamed of being a marquis, and would gladly settle for a lesser title such as count, viscount or, in a pinch, baron if the chateau came with proper heating. He has many friends, including one of the two fellow birthday celebrants, with the particule or particle de in their name, as in Jean Jacques Yves Claude de Provence Cote d’Azur. The particle de isn’t a sign of nobility so much as a sign that a cash poor aristocratic ancestor once married a notary or wine merchant. Still, it’s no surprise that they’ve rented something seigneurial for the occasion. The invitation adamantly insists that proper clothing is de rigueur. No, not black tie, but tenue dorée, i.e. wear gold. Henri even called me up the other day to let me know that I wasn’t welcome unless I was willing to play along (jouer le jeu). He said, “I hope that you’ll make more effort than you did for the last party.” I reminded him that his last party had had “Blonde” as its louche theme and that I hadn’t been feeling very blonde that day. Still, Henri’s jubilee does merit a bit of an effort and I’m well aware that he and his two birthday cohorts are spending a small fortune trying to keep their aristocratic fantasies alive, even though at 50 there’s little hope that any of them will marry up the social scale, so I’ve made an effort at being golden. See photo. Tonight may actually turn out to be more fun than the usual Nuit Blanche.]]> 1542 2010-10-02 16:37:53 2010-10-02 16:37:53 open open nuit-blanche-the-golden-jacket-and-henri%e2%80%99s-jubiliee publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 98 Holohan@gmail.com http://www.tomtom-accessories.com 173.234.159.76 2010-10-02 20:26:41 2010-10-02 20:26:41 spam 0 0 99 Guillen35@gmail.com http://www.wowgoldwizard.com/makewowgold/when-does-diablo-3-come-out-and-where-or-when-can-i-pre-order-it-online-to-buy-it/ 80.240.210.87 2010-10-03 02:37:32 2010-10-03 02:37:32 spam 0 0 100 Meinershagen718@rocketmail.com http://thejackieevancho.com/ 46.109.35.242 2010-10-03 09:46:21 2010-10-03 09:46:21 spam 0 0 101 Crother@163.com http://www.discountmagazinesubscription.info 187.6.85.3 2010-10-03 10:20:49 2010-10-03 10:20:49 spam 0 0 102 thanks41@gmail.com http://www.xdmweb.com/ 74.112.1.18 2010-10-03 14:09:10 2010-10-03 14:09:10 spam 0 0 103 Aydelott16@gmail.com http://www.helenamatchmaker.com 189.17.177.120 2010-10-03 15:57:52 2010-10-03 15:57:52 spam 0 0 104 Anagnostou89@gmail.com http://www.ecyclingday.com 61.213.158.124 2010-10-03 18:05:43 2010-10-03 18:05:43 spam 0 0 105 Antes98@gmail.com http://www.ecyclingday.com 61.213.158.124 2010-10-03 20:58:13 2010-10-03 20:58:13 spam 0 0 106 thanks41@gmail.com http://www.xdmweb.com/ 184.106.198.220 2010-10-03 23:03:45 2010-10-03 23:03:45 spam 0 0 107 Zieler67@gmail.com http://www.ecwfunds.com 61.213.158.124 2010-10-04 00:53:19 2010-10-04 00:53:19 spam 0 0 108 Childes@gmail.com http://www.cheapsmtp.com 173.234.159.86 2010-10-04 08:16:16 2010-10-04 08:16:16 spam 0 0 109 botangoklow@gmail.com http://www.livefiledwn.com/ 94.142.131.233 2010-10-04 15:04:54 2010-10-04 15:04:54 spam 0 0 110 Thorne350@yahoo.com http://www.TheYouTubeSecretExposed.com 110.138.236.92 2010-10-05 07:39:34 2010-10-05 07:39:34 spam 0 0 111 Macdonnell15@gmail.com http://www.headrushdesign.com 111.68.99.22 2010-10-08 09:15:10 2010-10-08 09:15:10 spam 0 0 112 Vanecek@gmail.com http://www.lannaphotorent.com 173.234.120.191 2010-10-08 11:46:01 2010-10-08 11:46:01 spam 0 0 113 Massard@yahoo.com http://free89onlinemovies.wordpress.com/2010/09/24/the-best-place-for-free-movies/ 173.208.78.36 2010-10-11 15:40:42 2010-10-11 15:40:42 spam 0 0 114 wanna12beguy@gmail.com http://computerdating.dlsb.eu/ 173.234.19.218 2010-10-13 22:09:41 2010-10-13 22:09:41 spam 0 0 115 334s2nds@gmail.com http://basketballshoesreview.com/ 64.120.249.228 2010-10-15 05:52:25 2010-10-15 05:52:25 spam 0 0 116 justrazz@gmail.com http://totebagsreview.com/ 64.120.249.228 2010-10-15 08:18:15 2010-10-15 08:18:15 spam 0 0 117 ii737298090@hotmail.com http://philipselectricrazor.com/ 159.223.16.108 2010-10-15 09:26:48 2010-10-15 09:26:48 spam 0 0 albaarandasanstitre2008fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1547 Wed, 06 Oct 2010 10:33:25 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/albaarandasanstitre2008fr.jpg 1547 2010-10-06 10:33:25 2010-10-06 10:33:25 open open albaarandasanstitre2008fr inherit 1553 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/albaarandasanstitre2008fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata albaarandareve2010fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1549 Wed, 06 Oct 2010 10:38:45 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/albaarandareve2010fr.jpg 1549 2010-10-06 10:38:45 2010-10-06 10:38:45 open open albaarandareve2010fr inherit 1553 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/albaarandareve2010fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata albaarandafragments2010fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=1551 Wed, 06 Oct 2010 10:40:09 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/albaarandafragments2010fr.jpg 1551 2010-10-06 10:40:09 2010-10-06 10:40:09 open open albaarandafragments2010fr inherit 1553 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/albaarandafragments2010fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Uruguayan artist Alba Aranda at Galérie Art Présent http://francerevisited.com/?p=1553 Wed, 06 Oct 2010 10:40:39 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/blogs/?p=958 Sans Titre, 2008, Alba Aranda[/caption] That journalist would indeed be working if he thought went out to investigate all of them, not just with their viewing but in trying to understand and explain the surprise, significance and/or disappointment behind, say: Monet at the Grand Palais, France 1500 also at the Grand Palais, Treasures of the Medicis at the Maillot Museum, Incan Gold at the Pinacotheque, Heinrich Kuhn at the Orangerie, Baba Bling: Interior Signs of Wealth in Singapore at Quai Branly, to mention those sitting on my desk and taking place in Paris, or the gallery openings at Galerie DIL or Galerie OMAGH or Centre Iris pour la photo, to mention several that recently arrived by e-mail. Today, though, I’m going to an opening that includes several works by artist and art therapist Alba Aranda, who’s taking part in her first gallery show at Galérie Art Présent, 79 rue Quincampoix, a 2-minute walk from the Pompidou Center in the 3rd arrondissement of Paris. [caption id="attachment_960" align="alignright" width="274" caption="Reve 2010, Alba Aranda"]Reve 2010, Alba Aranda[/caption] Alba is a friend of mine. Hers is a Paris success story-in-progress. I first met Alba in 1992 when, a recent immigrant from Paysandu, Uruguay, she was earning her a living by cleaning and ironing. Her uncompromising devotion to her art over the past 18 years while holding down full-time work in offices and caring for the elderly has been inspirational. But there’s more. Alba’s humor and her interest in others and openness to the work have been clear to me since early on in our friendship. But it’s through her artwork of the past few years and through her drive to create that I’ve most sensed the intensity and strength of her character. In 2004 she embarked on a 3-year evening and weekend program to obtain a degree in art therapy from the School of Michèle Billiard, who uses a method of therapeutic painting developed in the 20th century by Dr. Margarethe Hauschka. Alba’s thesis was on the work of Mark Rothko. [caption id="attachment_962" align="alignleft" width="274" caption="Fragments 2010, Alba Aranda"]Fragments 2010[/caption] Alba’s works in the collective show at Art Présent are NOT examples of art therapy per se though they naturally derive from an interior drive. “My inspiration,” she says (in French), “comes from my interior, painting is for me an interior need. My painting is intuitive, spontaneous. The colors are my guides on paths unknown but marked by memories, by infinite spaces, timeless…” I am in no way comparing the several pieces by Alba in this collective show to the work displayed in the museums and galleries listed above, though I do find the resonance of Monet in her Fragment 2010. But in case you don’t get to meet Monet while at the Grand Palais, well, on October 6, from 6pm-9pm, you can meet Alba along with other exhibiting artists. I’ll also be there until 8pm. Galérie Art Présent, 79 rue Quincampoix, 3rd arr. The collective show containing Alba’s work continues through October 15. Alba Aranda operates an art-therapy studio in Montrouge, the suburb along the southern edge of Paris, where she works with individual clients in French and in Spanish or simply in color. She may be contacted directly at alba.aranda@free.fr.]]> 1553 2010-10-06 10:40:39 2010-10-06 10:40:39 open open uruguayan-artist-alba-aranda-at-galerie-art-present publish 0 0 post 0 _edit_lock _edit_last 118 Brincefield@gmail.com http://www.wannablog.info 173.208.40.36 2010-10-06 20:38:44 2010-10-06 20:38:44 spam 0 0 119 Rippelmeyer469@rocketmail.com http://thejackieevancho.com/ 87.110.86.120 2010-10-06 22:23:30 2010-10-06 22:23:30 spam 0 0 120 Kearn24@propackcorp.co.uk http://blackpenguin.net 173.234.153.113 2010-10-07 00:22:09 2010-10-07 00:22:09 spam 0 0 121 Steff643@gmail.com http://www.buyexhaustmuffler.com 213.151.33.57 2010-10-07 12:47:18 2010-10-07 12:47:18 spam 0 0 122 Swindler88295@hotmail.com http://contemporaryartpaintingsnewyork.com/ 173.234.12.215 2010-10-09 01:42:38 2010-10-09 01:42:38 spam 0 0 123 simon@techhead.co.uk http://www.freakshare.co.uk/ 173.224.216.62 2010-10-13 22:33:52 2010-10-13 22:33:52 spam 0 0 124 thanks41@gmail.com http://www.xdmweb.com/ 147.46.86.89 2010-10-14 04:59:57 2010-10-14 04:59:57 spam 0 0 125 kampredz5@gmail.com http://www.gambletalks.com/ 173.224.216.62 2010-10-14 11:16:27 2010-10-14 11:16:27 spam 0 0 wmdebbiesept2010fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=673 Thu, 07 Oct 2010 11:30:49 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/wmdebbiesept2010fr.jpg 673 2010-10-07 11:30:49 2010-10-07 11:30:49 open open wmdebbiesept2010fr inherit 672 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/wmdebbiesept2010fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata wmdebbiesept2010fr1 http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=674 Thu, 07 Oct 2010 11:32:13 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/wmdebbiesept2010fr1.jpg 674 2010-10-07 11:32:13 2010-10-07 11:32:13 open open wmdebbiesept2010fr1 inherit 672 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/wmdebbiesept2010fr1.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata wmwendysept2010fr http://francerevisited.com/?attachment_id=675 Thu, 07 Oct 2010 11:32:56 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/wmwendysept2010fr.jpg 675 2010-10-07 11:32:56 2010-10-07 11:32:56 open open wmwendysept2010fr inherit 672 0 attachment 0 http://francerevisited.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/wmwendysept2010fr.jpg _wp_attached_file _wp_attachment_metadata Surviving family: Two sisters, one bed, and a 37-page itinerary http://francerevisited.com/?p=672 Thu, 07 Oct 2010 11:34:48 +0000 http://francerevisited.com/guestblog/?p=672
What happens when two sisters, one an artist with sore feet and a hankering for chocolate, the other an A-type corporate traveler with a 37-page itinerary and no interest in sweets, visit Paris together? Wendy Most of Trenton, New Jersey recounts the joys and suffering of a Paris adventure with her sister Debbie. 
It had long been my dream to go to Paris, as an artist I have always felt the pull, but I normally don't travel out of a 90 mile radius of NJ. My sister Debbie on the other hand, travels to Europe for business on a monthly basis for work. When Debbie asked me if I wanted to go to Paris for a long weekend before she had to report to work I jumped on it. But a lingering voice in my head was trying to warn me: remember, Debbie is an A type personality. No, let me correct that, she’s an AAA type personality. I knew I was in trouble when she sent me a 37 page itinerary, with bullet points. My own personality is further down the alphabet, more like a Z personality. I still have "To Do" lists on my kitchen table from 2004 that I haven't gotten around to. Yes, this was going to be interesting. I started to resent her even before the plane took off as she breezed through to business class, a comfy chair and a glass of Champagne. I was stuck so far back in coach, I was practically in cargo. I could hear the puppies crying. The teenager next to me smelled like he hadn't showered in a few days. Smell or no smell I was intent on getting a little sleep as soon as the plane took off. But the plane refused to take off. For 3 hours we sat on the runway, my teenage friend having fallen asleep with his head on my shoulder. Turns out that being in the air didn’t help either. By the time we emerged in Paris 10 hours later I was bleary eyed and I think I had chicken feathers in my hair. My sister, however, was refreshed and sparkly and ready to hit to begin on her 37-page itinerary. [caption id="attachment_674" align="alignleft" width="288" caption="Debbie by Wendy"]Debbie by Wendy[/caption] I was instructed by Debbie not to do anything but throw down my bags and get moving, it was day one, Thursday, and we were meeting Gary for a walk. (I’m from Gary’s hometown.) Where was my coffee? my croissant? my toothbrush? Coming, Deb. Gary gave us a fabulous tour and will forgive me, I hope, for remembering only one thing: that he knows his stuff and that the heart of Paris is beautiful. That’s two things actually, but I’ll forever associate the two. Five hours later we were back at the hotel and my sister informed me that I could take a shower and could sit down on the bed to put on my socks and shoes but could not lie down because we had a dinner planned with a friend she’d met the last time she was in Paris. I looked forlornly at the bed and off we went. We walked for 40 minutes to meet him, had a drink in bar, and then he led us 40 minutes back to a restaurant by the hotel. At least it wasn’t going to be a long walk home. Meal: fabulous. Hotel room: tiny, with a double bed. Bonding with sister in Paris indeed! Unfortunately, it’s hard to bond at night with a sister who snores. She slept like a champ. I was going for the world record of sleeplessness. Friday officially started up at 8am. I looked like I had through interrogation, but Debbie was ready to attack her itinerary with full A-type force. Day 2 started with coffee and croissant for me, cigarettes for her. We head for Montmartre, first to buy fabrics then to Sacré Coeur (by the stairs of course) then along the top of the hill. Debbie had a bullet point to look for old windmills, which I’d previously associated with Holland, but we never found them, though we did see the red mill above the entrance to the Moulin Rouge. It was then that I realized that my sister doesn't eat or drink anything. I snuck a pastry into my mouth while she was checking page six of her list. Mid-afternoon we returned to the room long enough to wrap rags around my bleeding feet then went out again to meet with Gary, who promised us a late afternoon and evening of explorations relative to food and drink. At the food market I spent a lot of time leaning against food cases, both out of awe and to keep myself from falling over with hunger. But eventually we got down to business: wine, cheese, more wine, dinner, more wine. Well worth the wait. My sister didn’t want her dessert (what is she not human??) but at least she ordered one. I told her I would stab her if she didn’t let me have a bite—it was a soufflé, which went perfectly with my dark chocolate delight—and she politely handed it over to me. When we got back to the room I was sure sleep would come to me, but no, I was so exhausted and I kept imagining monkeys running around the bed. Debbie, meanwhile, must have been imagining sleep and fluffy white clouds. Saturday was greeted by me seeing myself in the mirror, as I would appear at 75 years old. My eyebags had bags, my hair was a big frizzy mop, and why were my lips so swollen? Oh right, dehydration... but I threw on my scarf (that’s one way to feel Parisian), stuffed my feet in my so-called walking shoes, and listened to Debbie inform me "We have a full day, yes a very full day." I wanted to cry. First stop, Versailles. What splendor, I just wanted to lay down on one of those gilt laden tapestry beds. After 4 hours of walking its marble halls, it was time to go to the Orsay Museum. Was she kidding me? Ok I sucked it up, drank two bottles of water, shoved a cheese sandwich down my throat, and, once inside the Orsay, realized that I was now in my element. This is what I came to Paris for… ok, that and the dark chocolate. Still, I kept thinking: if I could just lie down under the marble statues and sleep for a few minutes. [caption id="attachment_675" align="alignright" width="288" caption="Wendy by Debbie"]Wendy by Debbie[/caption] I was abruptly taken out of my stupor with Debbie’s announcement that we had 7pm tickets to the Eiffel Tower. What was in those cigarettes she was smoking? Off we went. I was delighted that she wasn't going to make me walk to the top... or was she? ... no, no we took an elevator. Spectacular views, great pictures. When we realized that the elevator going down was going to take a while, Debbie’ suggested "Hey lets walk down a bit." Why not, my feet were already numb? After 10 flights, I keep thinking "If I could only catch up with her I might be able to fling her to the bottom," but I remembered I loved her and that her husband and children never forgive me. We finally got the next elevator, and off we went to a little café for some wine and omelets, which, if you haven’t tried that, makes for a great dinner combination. That night I did sleep for 20 minutes, enough to have visions of dolphins dancing in my head, don't ask me why. Sunday, our last day. We had agreed to a little picnic in the Tuileries Garden near the Louvre. I liked that plan because I knew it would involve sitting for awhile. But first off to Rue Cler for bread, cheese, wine and fruit. Wonderful sights and smells. Then to a flea market, where I bought a silver bracelet and she some postcards, then off to another flea market, where she found a sleek little blazer and I a huge, heavy, bulky old coat that would keep me warm in case Debbie ever took me to Russia some winter. And it was only 5 euros for both!!! We were thrilled with our purchases. Then it then dawned on me that I would have to lug this big heavy coat all over Paris, in September. If only I could rip it into strips and tie it around my swollen feet. Next was the picnic, but for me it was the best time, just to sit, and eat, and talk. Even though it was raining and cold, it was the highlight. After the picnic we were off to the Louvre. We went from one end to the other. My favorite paintings were created by artists I’d never heard of and the bonus was that you could take pictures of them. We wandered around for awhile and ended up at Napoleon III rooms that rivaled Versailles for glitz. Now you don't think we were done yet? Nooo, off to window shop for souvenirs, and then one last push, a boat ride on the River Seine. Did this require extensive walking? You bet it did: we walked from the Louvre down to the very last pier. I was starting to lose it when we finally reached it and were told we were at the wrong pier and that our boat was on the other side of the bridge, all the way down. I told Debbie, I would swim across and meet her on the other side. She smiled and told me to ''suck it up." I would have thrown my shoe at her… if I could have peeled one off my foot. The boat ride was lovely, I got to sit and see the lights and sights on the Seine. It was a nice way to end the trip. At dinner, we talked about our trip and she said we hit most of the itinerary, all 37 pages, which didn't surprise me at all.   Next morning she left before I did to get to Luxemburg for work. I would be on my own for a couple of hours before I left. She had told me how to get to a certain bakery so that I could pick up some bread to bring home, but after circling the same pile of dog poop three times I realized I was lost and gave up.   It was at that moment that I realized what a gift my sister had given me. She had made the trip seem so effortless and easy. She had planned everything, made all the arrangements, all I had to do was show up. She had been to Paris before and been to all the sights, she didn't have to do that for me, but she did. It’s why I love her and why I won’t forget my trip to Paris. I will come again, to sit and breathe in the city, and I hope she comes with me. Thank you, Debbie   I didn't get to bring back my French bread but I did grab an egg salad sandwich to bring with me on my 8 hour flight to enjoy at home. Trust me, not a good idea.   - Wendy Most, September 2010]]>
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